• Welcome to the Chronicle Forums.
    Please complete your profile. The forums and the rest of www.chronofhorse.com has single sign-in, so your log in information for one will automatically work for the other. Disclaimer: The opinions expressed here are the views of the individual and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of The Chronicle of the Horse.

Announcement

Collapse

Forum rules and no-advertising policy

As a participant on this forum, it is your responsibility to know and follow our rules. Please read this message in its entirety.

Board Rules

1. You’re responsible for what you say.
As outlined in Section 230 of the Communications Decency Act, The Chronicle of the Horse and its affiliates, as well Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd., the developers of vBulletin, are not legally responsible for statements made in the forums.

This is a public forum viewed by a wide spectrum of people, so please be mindful of what you say and who might be reading it—details of personal disputes are likely better handled privately. While posters are legally responsible for their statements, the moderators may in their discretion remove or edit posts that violate these rules. Users have the ability to modify or delete their own messages after posting, but administrators generally will not delete posts, threads or accounts upon request.

Outright inflammatory, vulgar, harassing, malicious or otherwise inappropriate statements and criminal charges unsubstantiated by a reputable news source or legal documentation will not be tolerated and will be dealt with at the discretion of the moderators.

Credible threats of suicide will be reported to the police along with identifying user information at our disposal, in addition to referring the user to suicide helpline resources such as 1-800-SUICIDE or 1-800-273-TALK.

2. Conversations in horse-related forums should be horse-related.
The forums are a wonderful source of information and support for members of the horse community. While it’s understandably tempting to share information or search for input on other topics upon which members might have a similar level of knowledge, members must maintain the focus on horses.

3. Keep conversations productive, on topic and civil.
Discussion and disagreement are inevitable and encouraged; personal insults, diatribes and sniping comments are unproductive and unacceptable. Whether a subject is light-hearted or serious, keep posts focused on the current topic and of general interest to other participants of that thread. Utilize the private message feature or personal email where appropriate to address side topics or personal issues not related to the topic at large.

4. No advertising in the discussion forums.
Posts in the discussion forums directly or indirectly advertising horses, jobs, items or services for sale or wanted will be removed at the discretion of the moderators. Use of the private messaging feature or email addresses obtained through users’ profiles for unsolicited advertising is not permitted.

Company representatives may participate in discussions and answer questions about their products or services, or suggest their products on recent threads if they fulfill the criteria of a query. False "testimonials" provided by company affiliates posing as general consumers are not appropriate, and self-promotion of sales, ad campaigns, etc. through the discussion forums is not allowed.

Paid advertising is available on our classifieds site and through the purchase of banner ads. The tightly monitored Giveaways forum permits free listings of genuinely free horses and items available or wanted (on a limited basis). Items offered for trade are not allowed.

Advertising Policy Specifics
When in doubt of whether something you want to post constitutes advertising, please contact a moderator privately in advance for further clarification. Refer to the following points for general guidelines:

Horses – Only general discussion about the buying, leasing, selling and pricing of horses is permitted. If the post contains, or links to, the type of specific information typically found in a sales or wanted ad, and it’s related to a horse for sale, regardless of who’s selling it, it doesn’t belong in the discussion forums.

Stallions – Board members may ask for suggestions on breeding stallion recommendations. Stallion owners may reply to such queries by suggesting their own stallions, only if their horse fits the specific criteria of the original poster. Excessive promotion of a stallion by its owner or related parties is not permitted and will be addressed at the discretion of the moderators.

Services – Members may use the forums to ask for general recommendations of trainers, barns, shippers, farriers, etc., and other members may answer those requests by suggesting themselves or their company, if their services fulfill the specific criteria of the original post. Members may not solicit other members for business if it is not in response to a direct, genuine query.

Products – While members may ask for general opinions and suggestions on equipment, trailers, trucks, etc., they may not list the specific attributes for which they are in the market, as such posts serve as wanted ads.

Event Announcements – Members may post one notification of an upcoming event that may be of interest to fellow members, if the original poster does not benefit financially from the event. Such threads may not be “bumped” excessively. Premium members may post their own notices in the Event Announcements forum.

Charities/Rescues – Announcements for charitable or fundraising events can only be made for 501(c)(3) tax-exempt organizations. Special exceptions may be made, at the moderators’ discretion and direction, for board-related events or fundraising activities in extraordinary circumstances.

Occasional posts regarding horses available for adoption through IRS-registered horse rescue or placement programs are permitted in the appropriate forums, but these threads may be limited at the discretion of the moderators. Individuals may not advertise or make announcements for horses in need of rescue, placement or adoption unless the horse is available through a recognized rescue or placement agency or government-run entity or the thread fits the criteria for and is located in the Giveaways forum.

5. Do not post copyrighted photographs unless you have purchased that photo and have permission to do so.

6. Respect other members.
As members are often passionate about their beliefs and intentions can easily be misinterpreted in this type of environment, try to explore or resolve the inevitable disagreements that arise in the course of threads calmly and rationally.

If you see a post that you feel violates the rules of the board, please click the “alert” button (exclamation point inside of a triangle) in the bottom left corner of the post, which will alert ONLY the moderators to the post in question. They will then take whatever action, or no action, as deemed appropriate for the situation at their discretion. Do not air grievances regarding other posters or the moderators in the discussion forums.

Please be advised that adding another user to your “Ignore” list via your User Control Panel can be a useful tactic, which blocks posts and private messages by members whose commentary you’d rather avoid reading.

7. We have the right to reproduce statements made in the forums.
The Chronicle of the Horse may copy, quote, link to or otherwise reproduce posts, or portions of posts, in print or online for advertising or editorial purposes, if attributed to their original authors, and by posting in this forum, you hereby grant to The Chronicle of the Horse a perpetual, non-exclusive license under copyright and other rights, to do so.

8. We reserve the right to enforce and amend the rules.
The moderators may delete, edit, move or close any post or thread at any time, or refrain from doing any of the foregoing, in their discretion, and may suspend or revoke a user’s membership privileges at any time to maintain adherence to the rules and the general spirit of the forum. These rules may be amended at any time to address the current needs of the board.

Please see our full Terms of Service and Privacy Policy for more information.

Thanks for being a part of the COTH forums!

(Revised 2/8/18)
See more
See less

Standing still for mounting

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #21
    I do not know how my daughter trained her Morgan but he would not move a foot unless it was approved by her

    We had the vet over just doing routine stuff, daughter dropped the lead line went over to pick up something, her horse started to pick up a foot...she just looked at him and he put his foot back where it was... vet was most impressed

    Comment

    • Original Poster

      #22
      Originally posted by drafting_dots View Post

      Yes, definitely this! My horse is very sensitive to correction. When I got him he had a habit of swinging his hips away from the mounting block. If I attempted to correct it by making him move forward, circling, etc. he would just get flustered and anxious. I tried rewarding when he stood still, but the second I started getting on he would move and there was literally no other effective action except having another person stand at his other hip. I have never used treats as reinforcement but decided to give it a try. He learned so quickly and I only used them for maybe 5 rides. The behavior hasn't come back, but every once in a while when I get on he turns his head around like "where's my treat?". Now he just gets big pats
      I think my guy would do well with treats as he is sensitive as well. But I'll try the difference suggestions here and see what works well with him.

      Comment

      • Original Poster

        #23
        Originally posted by beowulf View Post
        The only drawback to this method is that if someone is not aware that you do this, they can be taken aback by the horse's neck being practically in their lap looking for a treat once they get on. I once didn't tell my friend about it and she hopped on my guy and thought he was about to rear! He was just trying to see where his treat was but the sensation of a horse lifting his shoulders and pulling his neck up is not dissimilar to a rear..

        Comment


        • #24
          He could also be cold backed and walking forward when mounted can be a sign of that.

          Teach him to stand still for everything. Tacking, washing, grooming, everything. Put saddle on slowly, lunge first and then you can expect him to stand after mounting.

          It is better to ride 5 minutes a day than it is to ride 35 minutes on a Sunday.

          Comment


          • #25
            Try standing in the stirrup for a few seconds before throwing a leg over. When I discovered this was the way my OTTB mare liked to be mounted it was like clouds parting and angels singing.

            Comment

            • Original Poster

              #26
              Originally posted by SuzieQNutter View Post
              He could also be cold backed and walking forward when mounted can be a sign of that.

              Teach him to stand still for everything. Tacking, washing, grooming, everything. Put saddle on slowly, lunge first and then you can expect him to stand after mounting.
              I've heard of horses being cold backed before but never really understood what it was or what caused it? Is it just they need to get used to the saddle on them for a bit each ride?
              Though, not sure if that is the case with him because I usually do a couple of circles before I ride and, unless I lunge him long enough to make him tired, he still wants to walk off during/right after mounting

              Comment

              • Original Poster

                #27
                Originally posted by J-Lu View Post

                Your horse should learn to wait for your next direction when you mount. Make the right thing easy (he stands there) and the wrong thing hard (he has to back up, do work, or whatever if he takes steps on hos own if you mount).
                So do you mean if he wants to walk off right after I mount then I should just put him to work?
                ​​​​​​I'm just wondering how he will understand this because if he walks off when I mount and then I start trotting circles or making him work won't be then anticipate that as soon I'm in the saddle he's going to start moving around a lot right away? I'm just not sure he'll put 2 and 2 together, it seems it could backfire on me?

                Comment


                • #28
                  Originally posted by Smoke View Post

                  I've heard of horses being cold backed before but never really understood what it was or what caused it? Is it just they need to get used to the saddle on them for a bit each ride?
                  Though, not sure if that is the case with him because I usually do a couple of circles before I ride and, unless I lunge him long enough to make him tired, he still wants to walk off during/right after mounting
                  Every horse is different.

                  Basically a cold backed horse is one who bucks when you first mount and then settles and doesn't buck again.

                  But there are many different types.

                  My fellow when he is out of work will bronco buck when he steps forward with the saddle on and the girth loose. I was recently told to back him first and that worked like a charm. Now 'in work' he no longer does it. I still ask him to back as I before walking him forward as I feel this does no harm.

                  Other horses are fine with the saddle but when you first mount there is that period where they don't walk normally until after a few steps.

                  Other horses will want to walk when mounted so as they don't buck. Others cannot have their hooves picked up to clean them with the saddle and girth done up. By this I mean they will go down. This happened at our riding school. I don't mean what you think is a loose girth, I mean what the horse thinks is a loose girth. She went down on concrete and managed to pull her shoe off in the mean time and twisted her hoof doing it as well as scared the hell out of the girl tacking. As she went down came up, slipped and went down again when she tried to pick up the hoof.

                  When tacking always brush where the saddle is and put on the saddle blanket and saddle, put the girth down on the right hand side and do it up loosely. Continue to brush, pick out hooves, comb mane, etc, etc. Do up the girth on both sides as you pass.

                  By the time you put on the bridle and walk to the mounting block or lunge first the girth is tight and you have taken no extra time. This is much nicer for the horse and there should be no ears back or snapping at you when doing the girth up.

                  With all that done then standing still at the mounting block is down to your training and not the horse.
                  It is better to ride 5 minutes a day than it is to ride 35 minutes on a Sunday.

                  Comment


                  • #29
                    Lung him to make him tired?

                    Lunging properly in side reins. 10 minutes is equal to an hour of riding. Lunging is not to make them tired, it is part of training and to build the correct muscles, have correct contact and work the horse and make them fitter. You do not need to lunge for long. Quality not Quantity.

                    Try lunging a horse to make a horse tired, especially a tb and you will end up with a fit horse that if you are not working, which 20 m circles and jumping are not working, well one day the horse will feel really good and want to play and that does not end up well for the rider.
                    It is better to ride 5 minutes a day than it is to ride 35 minutes on a Sunday.

                    Comment


                    • #30
                      Originally posted by SuzieQNutter View Post
                      He could also be cold backed and walking forward when mounted can be a sign of that.

                      Teach him to stand still for everything. Tacking, washing, grooming, everything. Put saddle on slowly, lunge first and then you can expect him to stand after mounting.
                      And I taught Yo the word 'stand' also. Worked for mounting at the block as well as ground tying.

                      Horses can learn a decent vocabulary if you pick a word and use it every time, with consistency in what it means.
                      Yo/Yousolong April 23rd, 1985- April 15th, 2014

                      http://notesfromadogwalker.com/2012/...m-a-sanctuary/

                      Comment


                      • #31
                        Originally posted by Posting Trot View Post
                        Clicker training is very useful for this skill. It's a variant of the treat-training but with the addition of the conditioning sound of the clicker that makes it a bit easier to indicate more precisely to the horse the exact behavior that you are rewarding.
                        This. I clicker trained my baby to stand for mounting when he was very wiggly. Now he marches up to the block and stands like a rock with his head turned to the right and mouth open PLACE TREAT HERE PLS! until I am on and adjusted and ready to go
                        ----------------------------------------
                        PSSM / EPSM and Shivers Forum
                        http://pssm.xanthoria.com/
                        ----------------------------------------

                        Comment


                        • #32
                          Originally posted by Smoke View Post
                          Ok treats it is! So you just hold them still while you mount and then ask them to stand & treat?
                          If he's not standing while you mount I'd treat in two phases. You're going to use anticipation to get him to stand. And you'll use the fact that most horses will stay put while they eat a treat.

                          So, get him ready and line him up for mounting. As SOON as he is standing, give him a treat and tell him Good Boy! Most likely, he will stand while he's eating the treat, so use that moment get on while he's still chewing. Be patient - don't try to hold him in place while you get on. Wait 'til he's standing - then treat and mount.

                          If he's still standing once you're mounted, give him another treat and Good Boy! Wait a few seconds while he chews, then ask him to move on. Don't try to make him stand around too long at first. You want to ask him to move off before he tries to.

                          If he walks off while you're mounted, stop him and rein back to the mounting area if needed. As soon as he's stopped, give him the treat, let him chew a couple of seconds, then ask him to move off.

                          Keep doing this each ride. He should connect the dots pretty fast. He will anticipate that a treat is coming before mounting, and after mounting, and start offering to stand to get his payout without you having to make him stand.

                          Once he's got this new routine down nicely, phase out the pre-mount treat. Treat only after you're on.
                          Continue treating after mounting for a good long time (a month? 20 rides?). Treat from a different side each time so he doesn't know which direction to reach around for his treat.

                          Then, you've built a habit. Now act like a human slot machine. Treat every other time for awhile, then randomly.

                          Honestly, this worked like a charm, and fast, with my horse.

                          But don't forget to give him a scratch or a Good Boy! if it's not a treat day. Keep telling him he's good when he gets it right. It sounds complicated because it takes a lot of words to describe it, but it is actually very simple.



                          Comment


                          • #33
                            Originally posted by Smoke View Post

                            I think my guy would do well with treats as he is sensitive as well. But I'll try the difference suggestions here and see what works well with him.
                            It's good that you've identified that your horse has an anxiety issue - most horses do, and working on that is one of your first steps. He is clearly telling you that he is anxious enough that he can't control himself when you mount, so he's flunked mounting and you need to go back and address the root of the problem so you can get on with riding him. If your horse flunks mounting, you should not proceed to riding until you've fixed the problem.

                            Bribery is not a training technique. It's begging.

                            Your horse needs to be thoroughly desensitized so he learns how to handle whatever stimulus shows up while you are in the process of mounting and riding. Don't tiptoe around him and worry about bumping him in the side or touching his neck or whatever. You will find that this overall decreases his general anxiety level. You'd then go through a groundwork program to teach him the correct cues and responses, so when you get on him, you already have him bending to a stop, left, right, move the shoulders, move the hips and the beginning of lateral movement. You've already established a way to get him to stop and think and relax if something happens during a ride that upsets him.
                            "When a true genius appears in the world, you may know him by this sign, that the dunces are all in a confederatcy against him."

                            Comment


                            • #34
                              I would also recommend standing at the block once mounted for varying amounts of time.

                              Initially, while he's learning to stand, sit longer... quietly... until YOU ask him to go.
                              Once he stands and waits to be told to move off, vary the amount of time between you mounting up and when you ask him to walk off so that he doesn't come to also anticipate how long he is to stand there.

                              I would also make sure you are aware of how you mount... are you slowly lowering yourself into the seat, gently?
                              Having completely control of your body means fewer miscues to the horse... and fewer misunderstandings.
                              Yo/Yousolong April 23rd, 1985- April 15th, 2014

                              http://notesfromadogwalker.com/2012/...m-a-sanctuary/

                              Comment


                              • #35
                                I'll point out that clicker training with treats (operant conditioning) is not bribery. It's a structured training method that establishes a mutual language between the horse and rider. It helps the trainer slice up the task that is being taught into small, trainable pieces. This then has the effect of lessening frustration and anxiety.

                                The clicker and the treat serve to mark (emphatically) the exact behavior that is being rewarded.

                                It's an extraordinarily well-established technique, and there are reams of scientific evidence to support its efficacy as a training method for multiple species, including horses.
                                "The formula 'Two and two make five' is not without its attractions." --Dostoevsky

                                Comment


                                • #36
                                  Well, we can have the treat vs. no treat battle again... or not.

                                  I used treats to get my mare to stand at the mounting block when I started riding her after surgery. She had been out of work for 8 months and being ridden was exhausting, and she started oozing away from the block as I prepared to get on her. (Note: I also cut back on the length of the sessions at first; 10 minutes at the walk was too much for her when we started, so I went to 7.) I introduced treats, and she decided to stick around Over time, I cut back until she was getting no treats at all, and she was back to her pre-surgery well-behaved self. Every once in a while (less than once a month), I do give her a treat when she stands still at the mounting block, and should she start to get antsy on a regular basis, I'd do the process all over again. I can get on her from anything.
                                  You have to have experiences to gain experience.

                                  1998 Morgan mare Mythic Feronia "More Valley Girl Than Girl Scout!"

                                  Comment


                                  • #37
                                    I'm surprised that no one else has mentioned the technique I use. If the horse walks off before I ask, I dismount and take him right back to the block and remount. Rinse, repeat. It works best if I can just back him up into position before remounting. I move the horse to the block, not the block to the horse.

                                    We are most vulnerable in the moment we swing a leg over a horse and I feel that it is a critical safety concern to have the horse stand still for mounting.

                                    Comment


                                    • #38
                                      I have never done it that way redhorses. I haven't heard of that method before either. One of the great things of being on a forum.

                                      I keep in halt and tap with the whip along the neck, shoulder, ribs and rump , first on one side and the other, before moving off.

                                      The longer you keep them halted, the more time you have at a show to mount safely when they are upset.
                                      Last edited by SuzieQNutter; Oct. 15, 2017, 01:00 AM.
                                      It is better to ride 5 minutes a day than it is to ride 35 minutes on a Sunday.

                                      Comment


                                      • #39
                                        Originally posted by RedHorses View Post
                                        I'm surprised that no one else has mentioned the technique I use. If the horse walks off before I ask, I dismount and take him right back to the block and remount. Rinse, repeat. It works best if I can just back him up into position before remounting. I move the horse to the block, not the block to the horse.

                                        We are most vulnerable in the moment we swing a leg over a horse and I feel that it is a critical safety concern to have the horse stand still for mounting.
                                        i do mostly this to get the horse i ride to stand still. if he moves at all when mounting i immediately get off and make him work, backing up, disengaging hindquarters or just a brisk walk, etc. if i am fully on and he starts to move i make him halt. when he is good about mounting i do lots of patting. it took a few tries the first few times but he caught on pretty quick. sometimes he still moves and needs a refresher. generally i can easily get on after the second time if a refresher is needed. also, do not keep moving the block around. keep it in one place and move the horse back each time.

                                        Comment


                                        • #40
                                          Wow. A few times with treats and this morning my young fellow lined up to the mounting block and stood like a champ. The dressage instructor suggested this 2 lessons ago and now the problem is fixed.

                                          If I had known how well treats worked and how easy it was, I would have done this a year ago.

                                          Comment

                                          Working...
                                          X