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What is your favourite way to deal with moldy tack?

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  • What is your favourite way to deal with moldy tack?

    I have different things I have used, but I would really like to get your wisdom on how to get rid of mold and how to prevent it.

    Are there specific tack care products that kill/inhibit mold? Any good old-wives remedies? In your experience, do some tack care products make mold worse?

    While we are talking about tack care, what are your favourite treatments for old, neglected tack? Thanks!

  • #2
    clean it then oil it and let it dry use veggie oil finger hot and apply to rough side then wipe over smooth side with a damp oily cloth not wet just a bit damp then let it dry and then buff up with a clean cloth

    appling warm oil ie finger hot to rough side meand that the leather will drink it as in as much as it needs------- then you need to either hang the birdle up or rest the saddle for a few day and let it dry in norm tempreture rooms you can get away with agarage something thats attached to a house
    then buff up once dry on the smooth side

    Comment


    • #3
      For restoration work, I use Tilex or Lysol spray, or anything made for soap scum and mildew. Profusely.

      I am allergic to mold, so I let products do their job. And I spray them way up into crevices where rags could not reach.

      I then like to let items sit in the sun a day or two.

      What I end up with is quite dry, but less likely to re-mold.

      I clean with toothbrushes, napped rags (like polarfleece or terry) and Murphy's straight out of the bottle, not diluted. WARM to hot water, wringing out the rag as much as humanly possible. The heat helps loosen old dirt/sweat/grease etc. (though the Tilex or Lysol do a great job too!)

      I use Extra Virgin Olive Oil for most of my re-oiling. I use a paint brush with it on the nap (rough) side, and a rag, very lightly on the smooth side. I keep painting it on in thin layers until it stops soaking in in about 10 minutes. Over the course of a few days, of course... not all at once.

      Oakwood Leather Conditioner has Tea Tree Oil and inhibits mold. It can be a little tacky, and is best to apply in the warm sun or warm weather... but it does work nicely. I prefer Lederbalsam (Passier) for the topside, but the Oakwood is great for the nap side, or also for really thick leather like western saddles. Warmed, it is good for older bridles. BUT--it can be tacky.

      For just light mildew, from storage in a damp tack room, Vinegar works nicely. I dilute about 1/3 vinegar to 2/3 water, and put in a spray bottle. Again, it is drying, but I HAVE to kill the stuff or I'll wheeze through every ride, and god forbid I touch it and then touch my eyes.

      I still like to spray generously, wipe off, spray again, then sit in sunlight for a day or two. SUN is a wonderful thing. Powerful.

      Now, if I could figure out how to restore LIGHT leather without darkening too much... I think my life might be complete.
      InnisFailte Pinto Sporthorses & Coloured Cobs
      ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

      Bits are like cats, what's one more? (Petstorejunkie)

      Comment


      • #4
        ummmm, quickly close the lid on the tack trunk FULL of moldy tack??? and RUN!!!!
        Kim
        If you are lucky enough to ride, you are lucky enough.

        Comment


        • #5
          On a moldy-green saddle I had stored in my garage, I've had good luck with vinegar and a toothbrush, and good old sun, followed by a few thorough oilings.
          Ottbs - The finish line is only the beginning!

          Comment


          • #6
            Bleach to clean off mold, Saddle soap and Leather Therapy are amazing and Mink oil. the mink oil I use on my boots too as a water proffer.
            Courage is being scared to death - and saddling up anyway

            Boots, chaps and cowboy hats... nothin' else matters.

            Comment


            • #7
              I just did a whole bunch of strapgoods that had mildew on from being in an unheated tack room this winter. (We do not have humid summers).

              Leather New is my 'new' discovery.

              I think vinegar is not so good for stitching, but desperate times need desperate measures. I put half a cup of vinegar in a sink full of water. Dipped each bridle in very quickly, laid on a towel on the kitchen counter to take off most drips, then sprayed a whole bunch of Leather New on it. Wiped it off with a rag and hung up to dry. Did the whole job so quickly and it came out great.
              Proud member of People Who Hate to Kill Wildlife clique

              Comment


              • #8
                White vinegar for cleaning, straight out of the bottle with a rag, followed by Leather Therapy for conditioning, and I have found that it does actually discourage future growth of mold. I found this out accidentally, last year I had cleaned a bridle and treated with Leather Therapy, but I didn't treat the leather loops on the rope reins. When I took the bridle out of the bag, the bridle was fine, but the leather loops on the reins were covered in mold.
                There are friends and faces that may be forgotten, but there are horses that never will be. - Andy Adams

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by pintopiaffe View Post
                  Now, if I could figure out how to restore LIGHT leather without darkening too much... I think my life might be complete.
                  Fiebings Liquid Glycerine Saddle Soap is what was recommened to me by the saddle maker of my light western show saddle, I have used it without darkening the leather on the saddle.

                  http://www.fiebing.com/Leather_Care.aspx
                  There are friends and faces that may be forgotten, but there are horses that never will be. - Andy Adams

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    the only way I have every cleaned tack is with Fibeings Soap (either in the spray, the bar, or the can) used Bick leather conditioner on light leather, and on dark leather that I think needs serious reviving I have soaked it and then rubbed the oil in with Neetsfoot Oil THIS WILL DARKEN LIGHT LEATER THOUGH,, that iss why I use the Bick on light leather and leather that has not gotten really dry

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                    • #11
                      I use white vinegar also. It kills the mold.
                      Free bar.ka and tidy rabbit.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        My tack room is on the bank side of my very rustic and very old barn. We had a wet summer last year, and my well used, but well cared for western saddle had much of the summer off due to a saddle fit issue (ranch-type saddle, not a show saddle). It started to look like a piece of soft sculpture in grey-green. I put it on the fence on a sunny day and put one of those cans for mixing fertilizer on the end of my hose, filled with clorox, and hosed it down (careful not to get the sheepskin underneath wet. Left it in the sun to dry. Have done this with vinegar, as well, but this was a particularly desperate situation. Normally, I'd condition it immediately, but since I wasn't using it last summer, I did not. Did a thorough cleaning with liquid glycerine and it looks right nice. Will need an oiling when it goes back to work (it's for sale due to the saddle fit issue).

                        I also keep a spray bottle with vinegar/water in the tack room and spritz off any strap goods that I'm not using regularly. In the summer when I'm hosing the horses after riding, I will also hose the bridle, breastplate and girth that I've just used, quickly towel off any water left when I'm through grooming the horse. Helps keep up with dirt and any mold spores.
                        "One person's cowboy is another person's blooming idiot" -- katarine

                        Spay and neuter. Please.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by chemteach View Post
                          I use white vinegar also. It kills the mold.


                          Then the leather condition of your choice. Theres about a million that someone swares by.
                          “Management is doing things right; leadership is doing the right things.” Peter Drucker

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Here in my shop I use 1 cup of white vinigar to a quart of warm water to wash all the mold off. It kills the spores. I do not use oil of any kind on bridles. I use Leather New after it drys.
                            Keep your tack in a well heated room in the Winter. Don't leave it in the horse trailer or in a cold damp barn. Tack is expensive and you need to treat it as costly merchandise. You invest lots of money in it and leaving it outside is asking for rats to eat it, moths to eat it or mold to infest it.
                            I do not use Murphy's on any of my leather goods. It can damage the leather. And don't put your tack in hot oil. It will ruin it and the stitching.
                            I am sure there are some who take exception to what I posted but I have been in the saddlery and tack business for 43 years and this works best for me.
                            JMHO
                            sadlmalkr

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              My favorite way to deal with moldy tack is pay my kids to clean it. They're getting to old for that now.

                              I clean it with glycerine soap and then put it in a room with damp rid or a de-humidifier.

                              Comment


                              • #16
                                Another endorsement from Sadlemakr for dilute white vinegar and Leather New.
                                It is so quick and easy, just rinse, spray, wipe and let dry.
                                Proud member of People Who Hate to Kill Wildlife clique

                                Comment


                                • #17
                                  I have not had moldy tack for years, but have been using the Oakwood tack cleaner and conditioner that another poster mentioned.My tack lives in my trailer dressing room, so you would think it might mold due to no ac here in humid Va.

                                  Comment


                                  • #18
                                    Simbalism - the people who do not have mouldy tack must clean their tack more often than some of us???
                                    Proud member of People Who Hate to Kill Wildlife clique

                                    Comment


                                    • #19
                                      It's weird there is leather that is in good shape that doesn't seem to mold and there is leather that just can't wait for the chance.

                                      I am not seeing storing 8 saddles in the climate controlled house when there's a rustic rough made homebuilt barn just up the driveway LOL

                                      Comment


                                      • #20
                                        Mouldy leather is absolutely nothing to worry about and it will clean up well and without suffering any significant damage at all.

                                        I've got harness and saddles that are over 200 years old and trust me they've been mouldy - LOTS OF TIMES having spent centuries hanging up in typically damp tack and harness rooms in temperate damp UK climate. Of course perfect conditions for leather is airy and not with masses of condensation - in fact the exact opposite of an English tack room! But personally speaking I'd rather have my valuable harness and tack hanging in conditions where its slightly moist and liable to mould than somewhere too warm and dry.

                                        Some folks suggest such as vinegar for removing mould. Personally I'd never ever ever use vinegar on my good leather harness - its too valuable and vinegar is way too astringent! That is likely to do more damage than the mould. I don’t know the products you used but the following is what will keep saddles and other leather tack and harness in good condition.

                                        Mould can usually be removed from leather by following the cleaning and soaping process, theoretically mould can mark and stain lighter browns permanently though personally I've never found this to be the case.

                                        Its not true at all that mould is a sign of good conditioned leather - mould is a sign that your leather has been stored where its damp and there's mould spores - no more and no less! If you have a nice cool dry tack room or even use a dehumidifier it can help - but heck in reality who can manage that! Certainly not in the UK where 80% of our riding and driving means we return to put tack and harness back soaking wet from rain water!

                                        Once mould and mildew spores get into leather fibres, it is almost impossible to totally destroy them without destroying the leather too. Inhibiting their growth involves painstaking care using the right products. If mould and mildew invade your tack room, take these steps to limit its damage:

                                        Remove mouldy leather from the tack room and clean it out doors. You'll avoid filling the air in the tack room with mould spores that will simply contaminate other items within the confined space.

                                        Have a supply of old rags that you're willing to throw away. Begin by wiping off any surface mould with a wet soapy rag, capturing as much of the mould as you can in the process. Then throw the rag away. Don't rinse and re-use your rags. That only spreads the mould spores. Use an old toothbrush for cleaning lines of stitching and crevices. Then wash it all down again with new rags and saddle soap and then buff it up with a leather finishing product such as neatsfoot oil (if you have that?)

                                        After every use sponge with clean plain water to remove all the dirt and grease, allow to dry and then use a glycerine saddle soap with a clean, slightly damp sponge. Leave this application on and your leather work should be left supple and with a good shine. If you find you have a lot of soapy lather you have your sponge too wet. Also remember to remove any damp sweaty numnah or saddle pad from the saddle prior to racking it (and wash pads regularly).

                                        Water will not hurt leather, contrary to common belief, it is the drying process which does the damage. Always allow wet leather to dry slowly in an slightly warm tack room or outside in a shady place, never in direct sun or a source of heat, like a radiator or Aga. Should you get caught in a rain storm and your tack is soaked let it dry as described and treat it to another light coat of oil and then a glycerine saddle soap.

                                        When storing tack over winter or for a long period, it is advisable to use a good quality leather cream or paste like Hooper’s 1882 (known throughout the saddlery trade as 'Oopers 'Orrible) or Co-Cho-Line. A coating of this over the entire leatherwork then store in an old pillow case in a warm room with no damp will prevent the leather from becoming mouldy and stiff.

                                        If your leather shows any signs of dryness then I’d suggest that you need to buy a 5 gallon drum of cheap vegetable oil and put it in a tub. Remove your stirrups and immerse the whole sadle in the oil and leave it there for a week. Then hang over the tub to drain the bulk of excess oil out of it and so it drips back into the tub and doesn’t make a mess. A spare stable with free ventilation is perfect. Once its drained out – can take a week or two dependent on the weather, then just polish it up. (You can keep the oil and use it next year). I do this will all my tack and harness about once a year.

                                        And trust me if you had done all the above there would have been no long term poor effect and it will all clean up beautifully as mine does and its in impecible condition despite being REALLY old.





                                        If your tackroom is very damp then a dehumidifier might be a plan and also try to get a good air flow in it whenever you can

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