the blocker was a life saver when my horse decided that a hose was so scary he reared up and broke out of the crossties. He had seen a hose every day of his life and at 16, decided to be a dork. SO i retrained him with 2 blocker tie rings as cross ties and it worked wonderfully. the blocker allows the lead line to slide thru but not all the way. so they get the relief and don't panic, but still cannot get away so it teaches them to just relax. There are 3 different settings for the blocker. you just have to know how to tie them. the video link i posted above teaches all three.
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1. You’re responsible for what you say.
As outlined in Section 230 of the Communications Decency Act, The Chronicle of the Horse and its affiliates, as well Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd., the developers of vBulletin, are not legally responsible for statements made in the forums.
This is a public forum viewed by a wide spectrum of people, so please be mindful of what you say and who might be reading it—details of personal disputes are likely better handled privately. While posters are legally responsible for their statements, the moderators may in their discretion remove or edit posts that violate these rules. Users have the ability to modify or delete their own messages after posting, but administrators generally will not delete posts, threads or accounts upon request.
Outright inflammatory, vulgar, harassing, malicious or otherwise inappropriate statements and criminal charges unsubstantiated by a reputable news source or legal documentation will not be tolerated and will be dealt with at the discretion of the moderators.
Credible threats of suicide will be reported to the police along with identifying user information at our disposal, in addition to referring the user to suicide helpline resources such as 1-800-SUICIDE or 1-800-273-TALK.
2. Conversations in horse-related forums should be horse-related.
The forums are a wonderful source of information and support for members of the horse community. While it’s understandably tempting to share information or search for input on other topics upon which members might have a similar level of knowledge, members must maintain the focus on horses.
3. Keep conversations productive, on topic and civil.
Discussion and disagreement are inevitable and encouraged; personal insults, diatribes and sniping comments are unproductive and unacceptable. Whether a subject is light-hearted or serious, keep posts focused on the current topic and of general interest to other participants of that thread. Utilize the private message feature or personal email where appropriate to address side topics or personal issues not related to the topic at large.
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Posts in the discussion forums directly or indirectly advertising horses, jobs, items or services for sale or wanted will be removed at the discretion of the moderators. Use of the private messaging feature or email addresses obtained through users’ profiles for unsolicited advertising is not permitted.
Company representatives may participate in discussions and answer questions about their products or services, or suggest their products on recent threads if they fulfill the criteria of a query. False "testimonials" provided by company affiliates posing as general consumers are not appropriate, and self-promotion of sales, ad campaigns, etc. through the discussion forums is not allowed.
Paid advertising is available on our classifieds site and through the purchase of banner ads. The tightly monitored Giveaways forum permits free listings of genuinely free horses and items available or wanted (on a limited basis). Items offered for trade are not allowed.
Advertising Policy Specifics
When in doubt of whether something you want to post constitutes advertising, please contact a moderator privately in advance for further clarification. Refer to the following points for general guidelines:
Horses – Only general discussion about the buying, leasing, selling and pricing of horses is permitted. If the post contains, or links to, the type of specific information typically found in a sales or wanted ad, and it’s related to a horse for sale, regardless of who’s selling it, it doesn’t belong in the discussion forums.
Stallions – Board members may ask for suggestions on breeding stallion recommendations. Stallion owners may reply to such queries by suggesting their own stallions, only if their horse fits the specific criteria of the original poster. Excessive promotion of a stallion by its owner or related parties is not permitted and will be addressed at the discretion of the moderators.
Services – Members may use the forums to ask for general recommendations of trainers, barns, shippers, farriers, etc., and other members may answer those requests by suggesting themselves or their company, if their services fulfill the specific criteria of the original post. Members may not solicit other members for business if it is not in response to a direct, genuine query.
Products – While members may ask for general opinions and suggestions on equipment, trailers, trucks, etc., they may not list the specific attributes for which they are in the market, as such posts serve as wanted ads.
Event Announcements – Members may post one notification of an upcoming event that may be of interest to fellow members, if the original poster does not benefit financially from the event. Such threads may not be “bumped” excessively. Premium members may post their own notices in the Event Announcements forum.
Charities/Rescues – Announcements for charitable or fundraising events can only be made for 501(c)(3) tax-exempt organizations. Special exceptions may be made, at the moderators’ discretion and direction, for board-related events or fundraising activities in extraordinary circumstances.
Occasional posts regarding horses available for adoption through IRS-registered horse rescue or placement programs are permitted in the appropriate forums, but these threads may be limited at the discretion of the moderators. Individuals may not advertise or make announcements for horses in need of rescue, placement or adoption unless the horse is available through a recognized rescue or placement agency or government-run entity or the thread fits the criteria for and is located in the Giveaways forum.
5. Do not post copyrighted photographs unless you have purchased that photo and have permission to do so.
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If you see a post that you feel violates the rules of the board, please click the “alert” button (exclamation point inside of a triangle) in the bottom left corner of the post, which will alert ONLY the moderators to the post in question. They will then take whatever action, or no action, as deemed appropriate for the situation at their discretion. Do not air grievances regarding other posters or the moderators in the discussion forums.
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The Chronicle of the Horse may copy, quote, link to or otherwise reproduce posts, or portions of posts, in print or online for advertising or editorial purposes, if attributed to their original authors, and by posting in this forum, you hereby grant to The Chronicle of the Horse a perpetual, non-exclusive license under copyright and other rights, to do so.
8. We reserve the right to enforce and amend the rules.
The moderators may delete, edit, move or close any post or thread at any time, or refrain from doing any of the foregoing, in their discretion, and may suspend or revoke a user’s membership privileges at any time to maintain adherence to the rules and the general spirit of the forum. These rules may be amended at any time to address the current needs of the board.
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Horse Pops the Blocker Tie Ring Loose
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AA-my daughter's horse Sadie pulls back. Not as badly any more but she's been pretty consistant and violent about it in the past. What really worked well for her especially in situations like you're mentioning is to use our homemade version of the blocker only set very hard. Our heavy hitching rail had a length of logging chain on it as part of the construction and we were able to run the lead through part of the chain. For most horses it would feel like "I'm good and tied up" but for her if she had a freak out it gave just enough, it would follow her out on the pull but when she got out there she was still tied up. She never took that as a chance to run off, she stayed out there at the end of the lead and then all we had to do was reel her back in. Often what we've done with her too is run the lead through something she would normally be tied to and stand or put something heavy on the tail of the rope so there is some pressure but not hard/fast confinement.
That said-we had a friend that had a little horse that loved to pull back and then take off. He was a hand raised horse that had never been abused a day in his life-he was just smart enough and had been tied with some crappy lead ropes in his life. His owner finally put him inside a round pen, tied him up with baling twine IN the round pen, and waited for the pull back when the rest of the horses moved off. When the horse pulled back and got loose he ran him in the round pen until he was sweaty and ready to go get tied up again. Rinsed/repeated several times and little horse gave up his pulling back career. I've seen the concept used before where the horse pulls and breaks the tie lead put is still on another lead and gets worked when they pull off. Sometimes a horse just gets intrigued with the new trick of being able to get loose and I think you're right, AA, to not let it go into a habit!
depends a lot on what is motivating the horse and what the owner wants to do to handle the situation.“Most people do not listen with the intent to understand; they listen with the intent to reply.” Stephen R. Covey
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easiest thing to do, that will work anywhere, is to teach the horse to "stay where put". Then it doesn't matter what you tie him to, or how you tie him up, and you won't be tempted to try to tie him up in a way that might break his neck. This teaching is akin to teaching a dog to "stay". Most people refer to it as "ground tying" when talking about horses, but I prefer to think of it as "stay where put."
You use basic training methods- reward horse for standing still for a millisecond, then work up from there until he'll stand parked while you wander off out of sight to do whatever.
Horses are really strong and it's hard to actually find ways to tie them up that they can't break out of it if they really want to, so instead of engaging in a battle of "what to tie to" you should train the horse.
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I went through a day like that not too long ago with the blocker ring on the round pen wall. Only my horse got more confirmed at pulling not less, and worked us both into a lather. I decided to hold the end of the rope to stop it feeding out of the blocker at which point he broke a nice heavy brass snap, the chin ring of his halter, and finally his halter crown. I got so mad I dug in the tack room and found a heavy nylon triple stitched halter and tied him with that. I still used the blocker ring, just held tension on the end of the rope like before, and yes, I could easily hold 1000# of fight with it, only I could just as easily let go and set him free if need be. That blocker is a really cool tool.Originally posted by cowboymom View PostHis owner finally put him inside a round pen, tied him up with baling twine IN the round pen, and waited for the pull back when the rest of the horses moved off. When the horse pulled back and got loose he ran him in the round pen until he was sweaty and ready to go get tied up again. Rinsed/repeated several times and little horse gave up his pulling back career.
After three set backs with no breakage he gave up. He hasn't pulled since. In fact, two weeks ago I had him tied in the barn and a shetland pony mare started talking smack to him (she infuriates him) and he was going to wheel and kick the wall when he remembered he was tied and decided to respect the rope this time. I was pretty proud of him.
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The problem with all of the "ties that give" is that they violate the First Law of Tying A Horse: You tie the horse eye high, arm's length, with and to something that won't break.
If you have a device that allows "freedom" when the horse pulls back you set the stage for teaching the horse that force brings freedom. This is a Very Bad Thing.
The "donut" used as a "shock absorber" allows a hard tie with a minimum of risk to the horse.
Whenever you tie a horse you run the risk of injury to the horse, people around it, and damage to property. If you fail to effectively tie the horse you increase the risk to both the horse and the people around it.
G.Mangalarga Marchador: Uma Raça, Uma Paixão
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Very well put and worth repeating.Originally posted by Guilherme View PostThe problem with all of the "ties that give" is that they violate the First Law of Tying A Horse: You tie the horse eye high, arm's length, with and to something that won't break.
If you have a device that allows "freedom" when the horse pulls back you set the stage for teaching the horse that force brings freedom. This is a Very Bad Thing.
The "donut" used as a "shock absorber" allows a hard tie with a minimum of risk to the horse.
Whenever you tie a horse you run the risk of injury to the horse, people around it, and damage to property. If you fail to effectively tie the horse you increase the risk to both the horse and the people around it.
G.
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Thank you, and a little update... it was user error!Originally posted by katarine View PostI know AA in the real life kind of way and she just doesn't want Wiz to hurt himself. No harm in that. He's a big fizzy and the last thing she wants is for him to feel his head has been grabbed and panic.
I think, AA, you need to switch to a soft nylon rope that will 'grab' itself properly in the Blocker, and also look at how you used the Blocker. There are 3, I think, levels of firmness in threading the rope through the Blocker.
I was feeding it through the ring the wrong way. Once I fastened it properly, he fiddled and fussed with it the other night and it held fast. Onward and upward. Thank you for all your thoughts and suggestions. We'll keep working on it.
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Thank you. If the horse already understands on some level that force brings freedom, do you immediately tie it to a fixed object, or do you do remedial training before doing so?Originally posted by Guilherme View PostThe problem with all of the "ties that give" is that they violate the First Law of Tying A Horse: You tie the horse eye high, arm's length, with and to something that won't break.
If you have a device that allows "freedom" when the horse pulls back you set the stage for teaching the horse that force brings freedom. This is a Very Bad Thing.
The "donut" used as a "shock absorber" allows a hard tie with a minimum of risk to the horse.
Whenever you tie a horse you run the risk of injury to the horse, people around it, and damage to property. If you fail to effectively tie the horse you increase the risk to both the horse and the people around it.
G.
I have not done a lot of single tying, so I'm still learning about all of this. Before this new barn, all the barns where I boarded and rode always had cross ties.
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We start by teaching the foals to "hard tie." By the time they get some size on them they have already learned to "yield to the lead rope."Originally posted by Alibhai's Alibar View PostThank you. If the horse already understands on some level that force brings freedom, do you immediately tie it to a fixed object, or do you do remedial training before doing so?
I have not done a lot of single tying, so I'm still learning about all of this. Before this new barn, all the barns where I boarded and rode always had cross ties.
If you've got one that "sets back" the donut can be a big help in dealing with the problem. We don't do anything "remedial." We just tie it and go about our business. If I know it's going to happen I make sure that it's a "low traffic time" in the barn and I make sure I'm not behind the horse when they do it. Most will give you a "sign" and if they do then GET OUT OF THE WAY!!!!!
Cross ties, too, should be stout enough to handle a horse "setting back."
As long as you've got the horse "eye high, arm's length, with and to something that won't break" then you'll be OK and so will the horse. If they decide to "go walkabout" then they may get some "road burn" but the donut will prevent any serious mishap.
G.Mangalarga Marchador: Uma Raça, Uma Paixão
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We catered to our mare's pulling because frankly I didn't want to take the risk of her hurting herself or hurting my daughter as we worked through it. She's been tied hard and fast a lot but in dicey situations we use our homegrown tie blocker or work with her. I haven't seen her pull back in a couple years IIRC.
Most of our horses we tie hard, high and fast and go about life. We've had some pull back, fall down, get up, try again and cuss the day we were born but none of them ever hurt themselves permanently.“Most people do not listen with the intent to understand; they listen with the intent to reply.” Stephen R. Covey
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I am happy to share a positive update: we've been at the new barn for a little over two weeks, and I think the tying issue had a lot to do with the adjustment period/stress.
Now that he's mostly settled (he was at his old barn for about 10 years), he ties almost as well as he did on the cross ties. Under saddle, he's been great. I'm taking it slowly, and he has passed all my little tying tests with flying colors. Thank you for all your input.
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Is the horse's neck included in this criteria?Originally posted by Guilherme View PostThe problem with all of the "ties that give" is that they violate the First Law of Tying A Horse: You tie the horse eye high, arm's length, with and to something that won't break.
If you have a device that allows "freedom" when the horse pulls back you set the stage for teaching the horse that force brings freedom. This is a Very Bad Thing.
The "donut" used as a "shock absorber" allows a hard tie with a minimum of risk to the horse.
Whenever you tie a horse you run the risk of injury to the horse, people around it, and damage to property. If you fail to effectively tie the horse you increase the risk to both the horse and the people around it.
G.
Glad your horse is settling OP! It can be hard when a horse has been at once place for a longggg time, then goes somewhere new.Tell a Gelding. Ask a Stallion. Discuss it with a Mare... Pray if it's a Pony!
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Of course the neck is part of the equation; thus the "donut."Originally posted by sublimequine View PostIs the horse's neck included in this criteria?
Glad your horse is settling OP! It can be hard when a horse has been at once place for a longggg time, then goes somewhere new.
If you get one that crazy enough to cause itself a fatal injury while trying to escape being tied then what kind of mayham might it do while trying to escape the discipline of a rider???
G.Mangalarga Marchador: Uma Raça, Uma Paixão
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Thanks for posting the link to the videos! I have the blocker tie ring, but never knew you could add two more levels for strength. I only ever put the lead thru once, and with a thin nylon rope, it slid through very easy. I'm going to use the level 3 from now on! I have them for cross-tie use in my barn."If you think nobody cares about you, try missing a couple payments..."
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My horse also relaxes and ties well once he identifies a new tying area. It's as if he learns the mental parameters of the appropriate safe space to stand and the restraint of his head becomes less of an issue to him.Originally posted by Alibhai's Alibar View PostI am happy to share a positive update: we've been at the new barn for a little over two weeks, and I think the tying issue had a lot to do with the adjustment period/stress.
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Yes! That's what it felt like with Wizard, too. The New Normal. Once he figured out the setup of our new tack-up station, he was able to chill out during grooming and tacking up like he did at the old barn. It's great, because I think the new barn will be a really nice fit for both of us.Originally posted by SmartAlex View PostMy horse also relaxes and ties well once he identifies a new tying area. It's as if he learns the mental parameters of the appropriate safe space to stand and the restraint of his head becomes less of an issue to him.
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