• Welcome to the Chronicle Forums.
    Please complete your profile. The forums and the rest of www.chronofhorse.com has single sign-in, so your log in information for one will automatically work for the other. Disclaimer: The opinions expressed here are the views of the individual and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of The Chronicle of the Horse.



Forum rules and no-advertising policy

As a participant on this forum, it is your responsibility to know and follow our rules. Please read this message in its entirety.

Board Rules

1. You’re responsible for what you say.
As outlined in Section 230 of the Communications Decency Act, The Chronicle of the Horse and its affiliates, as well Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd., the developers of vBulletin, are not legally responsible for statements made in the forums.

This is a public forum viewed by a wide spectrum of people, so please be mindful of what you say and who might be reading it—details of personal disputes are likely better handled privately. While posters are legally responsible for their statements, the moderators may in their discretion remove or edit posts that violate these rules. Users have the ability to modify or delete their own messages after posting, but administrators generally will not delete posts, threads or accounts upon request.

Outright inflammatory, vulgar, harassing, malicious or otherwise inappropriate statements and criminal charges unsubstantiated by a reputable news source or legal documentation will not be tolerated and will be dealt with at the discretion of the moderators.

2. Conversations in horse-related forums should be horse-related.
The forums are a wonderful source of information and support for members of the horse community. While it’s understandably tempting to share information or search for input on other topics upon which members might have a similar level of knowledge, members must maintain the focus on horses.

3. Keep conversations productive, on topic and civil.
Discussion and disagreement are inevitable and encouraged; personal insults, diatribes and sniping comments are unproductive and unacceptable. Whether a subject is light-hearted or serious, keep posts focused on the current topic and of general interest to other participants of that thread. Utilize the private message feature or personal email where appropriate to address side topics or personal issues not related to the topic at large.

4. No advertising in the discussion forums.
Posts in the discussion forums directly or indirectly advertising horses, jobs, items or services for sale or wanted will be removed at the discretion of the moderators. Use of the private messaging feature or email addresses obtained through users’ profiles for unsolicited advertising is not permitted.

Company representatives may participate in discussions and answer questions about their products or services, or suggest their products on recent threads if they fulfill the criteria of a query. False "testimonials" provided by company affiliates posing as general consumers are not appropriate, and self-promotion of sales, ad campaigns, etc. through the discussion forums is not allowed.

Paid advertising is available on our classifieds site and through the purchase of banner ads. The tightly monitored Giveaways forum permits free listings of genuinely free horses and items available or wanted (on a limited basis). Items offered for trade are not allowed.

Advertising Policy Specifics
When in doubt of whether something you want to post constitutes advertising, please contact a moderator privately in advance for further clarification. Refer to the following points for general guidelines:

Horses – Only general discussion about the buying, leasing, selling and pricing of horses is permitted. If the post contains, or links to, the type of specific information typically found in a sales or wanted ad, and it’s related to a horse for sale, regardless of who’s selling it, it doesn’t belong in the discussion forums.

Stallions – Board members may ask for suggestions on breeding stallion recommendations. Stallion owners may reply to such queries by suggesting their own stallions, only if their horse fits the specific criteria of the original poster. Excessive promotion of a stallion by its owner or related parties is not permitted and will be addressed at the discretion of the moderators.

Services – Members may use the forums to ask for general recommendations of trainers, barns, shippers, farriers, etc., and other members may answer those requests by suggesting themselves or their company, if their services fulfill the specific criteria of the original post. Members may not solicit other members for business if it is not in response to a direct, genuine query.

Products – While members may ask for general opinions and suggestions on equipment, trailers, trucks, etc., they may not list the specific attributes for which they are in the market, as such posts serve as wanted ads.

Event Announcements – Members may post one notification of an upcoming event that may be of interest to fellow members, if the original poster does not benefit financially from the event. Such threads may not be “bumped” excessively. Premium members may post their own notices in the Event Announcements forum.

Charities/Rescues – Announcements for charitable or fundraising events can only be made for 501(c)(3) tax-exempt organizations. Special exceptions may be made, at the moderators’ discretion and direction, for board-related events or fundraising activities in extraordinary circumstances.

Occasional posts regarding horses available for adoption through IRS-registered horse rescue or placement programs are permitted in the appropriate forums, but these threads may be limited at the discretion of the moderators. Individuals may not advertise or make announcements for horses in need of rescue, placement or adoption unless the horse is available through a recognized rescue or placement agency or government-run entity or the thread fits the criteria for and is located in the Giveaways forum.

5. Do not post copyrighted photographs unless you have purchased that photo and have permission to do so.

6. Respect other members.
As members are often passionate about their beliefs and intentions can easily be misinterpreted in this type of environment, try to explore or resolve the inevitable disagreements that arise in the course of threads calmly and rationally.

If you see a post that you feel violates the rules of the board, please click the “alert” button (exclamation point inside of a triangle) in the bottom left corner of the post, which will alert ONLY the moderators to the post in question. They will then take whatever action, or no action, as deemed appropriate for the situation at their discretion. Do not air grievances regarding other posters or the moderators in the discussion forums.

Please be advised that adding another user to your “Ignore” list via your User Control Panel can be a useful tactic, which blocks posts and private messages by members whose commentary you’d rather avoid reading.

7. We have the right to reproduce statements made in the forums.
The Chronicle of the Horse may copy, quote, link to or otherwise reproduce posts, or portions of posts, in print or online for advertising or editorial purposes, if attributed to their original authors, and by posting in this forum, you hereby grant to The Chronicle of the Horse a perpetual, non-exclusive license under copyright and other rights, to do so.

8. We reserve the right to enforce and amend the rules.
The moderators may delete, edit, move or close any post or thread at any time, or refrain from doing any of the foregoing, in their discretion, and may suspend or revoke a user’s membership privileges at any time to maintain adherence to the rules and the general spirit of the forum. These rules may be amended at any time to address the current needs of the board.

Please see our full Terms of Service and Privacy Policy for more information.

Thanks for being a part of the COTH forums!

(Revised 1/26/16)
See more
See less

Spinoff: Tying your horse

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Spinoff: Tying your horse

    I've never owned a youngin and have never had to teach a horse to tie. In fact, i've never really had to tie very often. (Barns always had cross ties, I dont do any real trail riding and havent shown or trailered a lot in the past few years).

    I moved my horse recently to where there are no cross ties. I tied my gelding to the tie post (is that what its called?!) and he was very shifty, didnt want to hold still, pulled back etc.

    I didnt really have a problem with not tying til I got here and now I want to fix this problem the right way. How did you teach your horse to tie? OR How did you re-teach your horse to tie? I would LOVE for this guy to be as quiet as my SO's QH's who will stay tied quietly for as long as you need!
    Charlie Brown (1994 bay TB X gelding)
    White Star (2004 grey TB gelding)

    Mystical Moment, 1977-2010.

  • #2
    Originally posted by AliCat518 View Post
    I've never owned a youngin and have never had to teach a horse to tie. I would LOVE for this guy to be as quiet as my SO's QH's who will stay tied quietly for as long as you need!
    There are half a dozen or more ways to teach to tie. The easiest for me is to teach the horse to ALWAYS give to any pressure from a halter....this is basic ground work for foals here so older horses may take a bit more time and energy (they are bigger and by the time they are grown they are also accustomed to not being tied except for perhaps in cross ties).

    I personally like the Blocker Tie Ring as a training tool....it allows for a horse to learn that being confined is not harmful to him while not allowing him to get away. There are 4 ways to use this with each providing different levels of resistance to the horse that pulls back....you start with the lightest resistance level so that the horse is able to move and feel safe and not trapped. Used correctly it is a great tool and you can hardly spook a horse into pulling. You don't use the strongest resistance until the horse is barely pulling...the next step is a "hard tie".....what this teaches is that the horse has no real reason to pull since he doesn't feel trapped...it increases his tolerance for being tied at the same time it increases his understanding that being tied is a safe place for him. Another way to do this is simply to have a long (35-50 feet) smooth lead rope and something like a welded pipe tie rail that the rope won't grab onto...take a couple wraps so that the horse is pulling against the pipe as the lead slides around the pipe and not you and your hands and allow the horse to pull if he wants to....you just provide enough traction that there is drag that he will decide means he's not trapped. You can also use a body rope but unless you have some good experience with this or have someone who knows exactly how to use it without hurting the horse I wouldn't recommend it. It does work very well but not a lot of people know how to do it safely or have the proper equipment. Another way is what is called a "patience tree" or "patience pole". It involves a high stout tree branch or a pole with a swivel action arm at the top. In each case the horse is tied with a lead that has a heavy duty swivel on it and at a level where he can carry his head at a natural level but not lower than that. Sometimes these have a "bumper" in the setup...usually a small tire inner tube tied to the tree branch and then the tie rope attached to that (or tied to the swivel arm and then the lead tied to it)...this prevents sharp jerks should the horse get angry or panicky and pull back hard. The horse is tied to either the tree branch or the pole arm and is left there with a watchful eye on him from a distance. He may just stand there or he may decide he wants to leave and join his buddies or just that he doesn't want to be there. Due to the heavy swivel he can't twist the rope or the halter and damage himself (without this swivel it is possible for them to turn around enough to tighten the halter to the point of choking or even hanging the horse...it has happened when not done correctly). He will often scream and holler, pull (but with the fairly high tie and the bumper he can't damage his neck or get a lot of traction for pulling), jump forward, twirl like a mad dervish and generally be entirely upset. He gets no attention, not even getting yelled at to knock that off, for any of these antics. He only gets attention when he is quietly standing. He's taken off every couple hours for food, water, walk around etc. This can be disturbing to owners who have never seen it and who don't want their horse upset by anything so it isn't for everyone to do. I will say though that a good many western horses do get taught to tie this way (if not taught as a foal) and they will not pull back and will stand quietly when tied...including stallions tied next to mares etc. Chances are good that your BO's QH was either taught tying as a foal (which is the case for most) or by using one of these methods as an older than weanling age horse.
    Colored Cowhorse Ranch
    Northern NV


    • #3
      I'd tie whenever I had the chance, whenever I was just piddling around, to teach patience, and untie and hand-graze or groom or do something else rewarding, when the horse was relaxed (or at least *tried* in that direction).

      That said, I wouldn't put the horse either in a situation where it is going to become too flustered tied - lathered, pulling back, etc, without properly preparing them to stand tied. Reason being, then you simply create a horse who is establishing patterns and habits of anxiety while tied, which is sub-optimal As a prey animal, the horse's first instinct is to move his feet (flee), so that's what your horse is *trying* to do. He is not relaxed and is not comfortable tied (ie, he does not feel safe), so he tries to move his feet and becomes increasingly reactive. He does not feel safe because he knows he is essentially *trapped*... prey animals are of course very claustrophobic, for good reason! If I have a horse who is not in a position to be tied, I don't tie, or I tie as little as possible, and instead prepare the horse for being tied - ie, teach them to be calmer, more relaxed, more confident, and to think situations through as opposed to becoming reactive (ie, pulling back), *then* I can return to tying for increasingly longer periods of time, playing with the horse's threshold and increasing it over time. I do this through a variety of on-line and off-line exercises (mostly on-line, but some horses *really* respond to off-line work (ie, working at liberty in a roundpen, doing much of the same exercises you do on-line, but at liberty). Personally I do this through the 7 Games, but there are a ton of ground exercises out there that will achieve the same.

      - desensitization will target the horse's confidence level (ie, placing him in challenging situations he can overcome) as well as his confidence in my ability to lead and ensure his safety
      - teaching the horse to move off or increasingly lighter pressure and to be responsive
      - teaching the horse to respect and move out of my space without touching him (using body cues) - sideways, back, turns on the fore and hind
      - teaching the horse to longe and incorporating a number of exercises such as spirals, changes of direction and changes in pace and gait, asking the horse to go over (jumps, bridges, tarps), through (trailers, gaits, etc), etc things by himself (ie, I direct off to the side and "send" or "drive" - I guide at an increasingly larger distance, which earns the horse's confidence in my leadership and builds confidence in the horse itself), asking the horse to maintain gait no matter what I do (whether that be stand there idle, or walk up and down the arena with said horse circling me). This can be expanded upon by sending the horse through patterns (figure-8, serpentines, etc) also, on-line.

      Any exercises that instill confidence in the horse and teaches the horse to *think* will solve the root issue and thus affect its ability to stand still tied, to feel comfortable and relaxed while tied. Usually I simply work on all the above and voila, ultimately have a horse who ties well
      ....horses should be trained in such a way that they not only love their riders, but look forward to the time they are with them.
      ~ Xenophon, 350 B.C.


      • #4
        Informative and entertaining . . .



        • #5
          The most important thing about teaching a horse to tie is to make sure the horse will give to pressure. This means when you apply pressure to the halter, your horse must lower his head and step forward without any hesitation at all. No raising the head, no hesitation.

          It can be difficult to retrain a horse that has a history of pulling back because of the pain and fear involved. Horses often injure their necks when they pull back and any pressure then will hurt and they will panic and pull harder which hurts more and creates more panic.

          I agree that the tie ring that applies pressure while giving can help retrain some horses. I have seen it used but haven't used it myself. Instead, I always work a lot on teaching my horses to lower their heads to pressure the TTEAM training way and then use the leading exercise called Ding-go to teach them to step forward from pressure.

          I learned the pony club way and always tie to a bailing twine loop even though I do the above exercises too.


          • Original Poster

            Thanks for all of these ideas! Will start working on it today
            Charlie Brown (1994 bay TB X gelding)
            White Star (2004 grey TB gelding)

            Mystical Moment, 1977-2010.


            • #7
              Originally posted by Tom Bloomer View Post
              Informative and entertaining . . .


              Basic "patience tree" but with a few things I don't do and lacking one I do......the lack of a swivel to keep Dobbin from twisting the inner tube and tie rope and eventually the halter is important....lack of it can cause a horse that wants to walk (or spin) circles to tighten things up to the point he can strangle himself. And I don't leave them on the tree for days...usually takes no more than a day or two and I always take them off for the night (into their stall for dinner and breakfast) and for water and a bit of walking several times during the day. I also tie at a level that limits the possibility of getting a leg over the rope and ending up upside down. I have seen a few that did manage (fortunately not mine as I would probably have panicked at that point) to do so and they did manage to get back up on tehir own. I don't ignore the horse that is tied to a patience tree....I keep an eye on him so that IF trouble develops I can get it fixed AND I can reward him for standing quietly with a moment or two of attention and brushing.
              Colored Cowhorse Ranch
              Northern NV