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Kimberwick bit - curb chain

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  • Kimberwick bit - curb chain

    Hello,
    Hope this is a decent category for this post - let me know if I should move it elsewhere
    I've got a kimberwick bit and it came with the standard hooks/chain which I put a rubber guard over, but I don't know if I'm adjusting it wrong or what but the guard is always flipping over so the chain side is on the horse and not the rubber. I was wondering if there is a way to fix this or if it's possible to switch the chain out for a leather curb strap? I've not seen any possibility for that but maybe a converter exists that I haven't been able to find.
    Any help is appreciated,
    Thanks
    This is the bit https://www.sstack.com/product/fes-l...imberwick-bit/ and the guard I have https://www.viovet.co.uk/Korsteel-Ru...-Guard/c29947/


    Korsteel Rubber Curb Chain Guard is available online with fast delivery from VioVet, the trusted supplier of veterinary medication, foods and animal care products.

  • #2
    You can wrap it with Vet wrap

    Comment


    • #3
      Vet wrap is a good idea. You can also find SealTex (below) or something similar at many tack stores. That would also work and would be more durable than vet wrap. as it's thicker.

      Another option is to get a basic rolled curb strap and two small stainless O-rings. Attach each end of the curb strap to an O-ring, then put the O-rings on the hooks on either side of the bit (after removing the chain of course).
      ~~ How do you catch a loose horse? Make a noise like a carrot! - British Cavalry joke ~~

      Comment


      • #4
        I would also recommend Sealtex, although personally I would not use anything unless he gets rubbed.

        Comment


        • #5
          Just curious. But have you tried the bit without the chain wrapped or a guard? Your horse might be fine without either. Otherwise I'd go with the latex wrap.
          ~~Some days are a total waste of makeup.~~

          Comment


          • #6
            A correctly fitted curb chain will just be sitting quietly until sufficient pressure is applied to the bit to bring the chain into effect. As it shouldn't be constantly pulling or rubbing, the vast majority of horses, so long as the links are flat and the chain is loose enough, do not need any guard at all. As the chin groove is very sensitive it is really important to fit the chain properly.
            "Good young horses are bred, but good advanced horses are trained" Sam Griffiths

            Comment

            • Original Poster

              #7
              jvanrens Willesdon I tried just leaving it but he has just crazy sensitive skin and was getting rubs from it moving around. I had it at fitted so I could get three fingers in but the movement of it was bothering his skin. To keep it from moving it has too be too tight for my liking.

              Comment

              • Original Poster

                #8
                Highflyer 4LeafCloverFarm bluepece2 I will have to try that, the idea of hideous vet wrap ruining the look bothers me a little but I guess it won't be too visible and I'm not doing it for me lol

                Comment


                • #9
                  Three fingers sounds too loose? It should engage when the bit is about 45 degrees angle in the mouth. Alternatively, How about just using a thin leather strap?
                  "Good young horses are bred, but good advanced horses are trained" Sam Griffiths

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Can you take the guard off and put it back on "upside down" (I mean rotate it 180 and put it back on the same chain)? Or pull the chain off of the hook and flip it around?

                    I use curb chains on my Myler bits with a different type of a chain guard (I use an Acavello one: https://www.smartpakequine.com/pt/ac...in-guard-15125), and I use little carabiner style clips on either end of the chain. I have to be careful how I clip it on to make sure the gel side is against the horse...that also means I have to pay attention to how I put the gel cover on the chain in the first place. And if it wants to flip over when in use I just have to reset the guard (or the clips).
                    __________________________________
                    Flying F Sport Horses
                    Horses in the NW

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I was going to suggest the type of lip strap that is used on a pelham or curb to stabilize the chain, but I don't see any attachment point on your bit.

                      So, building on Willesdon's comments, the chain should not bounce noticeably. On my pelham bridles, I put the chain through the bit rings so that the hooks are on the outside. This definitely stabilizes the chain and if you have enough room for three fingers, you have a long enough chain to go outside and still be an appropriate tension.

                      45 degrees is correct, as Willesdon said.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Three fingers under is NOT the correct way to fit a curb strap/chain, ( or most other bridle parts)That's waaaay too loose and bet that's why it rubs him without the guard and the guard flips over. Its too loose to do anything and serves no purpose other then bouncing around rubbing the skin.

                        The curb strap/ chaiin is designed to add light pressure and leverage to the action of a curb bit like the KW. Without the curb the bit functions only as a snaffle. Which make me wonder why you don't just go to a snaffle, they come in straight, unjointed styles (Mullen mouth), single, double or multiple part mouthpieces all with rings or dee sides. Doesn't sound like your horse needs any leverage or curb action if he works OK with a flopping curb chain.

                        To properly adjust that chain, it should lie maybe half a fingers width from the jaw. It needs to not be so loose it bounces and must be close enough to add light pressure when the bit rotates to 45degrees. But it must disengage when the reins are loosened. But not rattle and bounce around.

                        Without getting into bit theory, the KW was originally designed as a Dee Ring sided bit with slots for use with two reins, snaffle and curb. like a Pelham but the P has a single thin shank with two small rings for reins, one set of which you run the curb chain around. KW also typically has a rectangular box shapoed slot for the bridle cheek pieces to add poll pressure to its action, Pelham is usually round. . Over time it got dummied down to be used with a converter ( as have Pelhams) or just a single rein making it just a Dee ring sided curb bit with a slot instead of a ring to attach to the bridle.

                        Its not a favorite of many folks, can be considered unconventional in the Hunter rings. It is popular with some Western folks and some feel beginners find them easier to handle. IMO there are better choices that allow far more precise rein aids and less chance to stiff the horse with a misused curb bit erroneously thought of as "nice".

                        But if you want to use this anyway, get some help with proper adjustment. The Pony Club Manual covers adjusting bits and bridles and regardless of what seat you ride, the bridles are either snaffle or curb and adjusted pretty much the same way. Look online, probably find some how to videos.
                        When opportunity knocks it's wearing overalls and looks like work.

                        The horse world. Two people. Three opinions.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by findeight View Post
                          Three fingers under is NOT the correct way to fit a curb strap/chain, ( or most other bridle parts)That's waaaay too loose and bet that's why it rubs him without the guard and the guard flips over. Its too loose to do anything and serves no purpose other then bouncing around rubbing the skin.....
                          .....To properly adjust that chain, it should lie maybe half a fingers width from the jaw. It needs to not be so loose it bounces and must be close enough to add light pressure when the bit rotates to 45degrees. But it must disengage when the reins are loosened. But not rattle and bounce around.
                          It's pretty easy to test out how tight your curb chain should be. Put it on, adjust it to where you think it should be, and then put a finger between the chain and the horse and pull back on the reins with your other hand (while standing next to, not on, the horse). There should be no pressure when the reins are slack and the chain should squeeze your fingers when you pull back. No pressure when you pull on the reins means it's too loose. Pressure even when the reins are slack equals too tight.
                          __________________________________
                          Flying F Sport Horses
                          Horses in the NW

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Just because I don't see it mentioned, You're twisting the chain so that all of the links line up and lay flat before you attach it, right?

                            Comment

                            • Original Poster

                              #15
                              jonem004 yes the links are all laying flat, PNWjumper I'll have to try that, I just left it at two fingers as that seemed to be the most popular opinion when I searched google, also thanks for the link Huntin' Pony I'll have to try that, I always have the hooks on the inside - is this incorrect? Willesdon verdict appears to be that it's a bit loose so I will try tightening it

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