• Welcome to the Chronicle Forums.
    Please complete your profile. The forums and the rest of www.chronofhorse.com has single sign-in, so your log in information for one will automatically work for the other. Disclaimer: The opinions expressed here are the views of the individual and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of The Chronicle of the Horse.



Forum rules and no-advertising policy

As a participant on this forum, it is your responsibility to know and follow our rules. Please read this message in its entirety.

Board Rules

1. You’re responsible for what you say.
As outlined in Section 230 of the Communications Decency Act, The Chronicle of the Horse and its affiliates, as well Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd., the developers of vBulletin, are not legally responsible for statements made in the forums.

This is a public forum viewed by a wide spectrum of people, so please be mindful of what you say and who might be reading it—details of personal disputes are likely better handled privately. While posters are legally responsible for their statements, the moderators may in their discretion remove or edit posts that violate these rules. Users have the ability to modify or delete their own messages after posting, but administrators generally will not delete posts, threads or accounts upon request.

Outright inflammatory, vulgar, harassing, malicious or otherwise inappropriate statements and criminal charges unsubstantiated by a reputable news source or legal documentation will not be tolerated and will be dealt with at the discretion of the moderators.

2. Conversations in horse-related forums should be horse-related.
The forums are a wonderful source of information and support for members of the horse community. While it’s understandably tempting to share information or search for input on other topics upon which members might have a similar level of knowledge, members must maintain the focus on horses.

3. Keep conversations productive, on topic and civil.
Discussion and disagreement are inevitable and encouraged; personal insults, diatribes and sniping comments are unproductive and unacceptable. Whether a subject is light-hearted or serious, keep posts focused on the current topic and of general interest to other participants of that thread. Utilize the private message feature or personal email where appropriate to address side topics or personal issues not related to the topic at large.

4. No advertising in the discussion forums.
Posts in the discussion forums directly or indirectly advertising horses, jobs, items or services for sale or wanted will be removed at the discretion of the moderators. Use of the private messaging feature or email addresses obtained through users’ profiles for unsolicited advertising is not permitted.

Company representatives may participate in discussions and answer questions about their products or services, or suggest their products on recent threads if they fulfill the criteria of a query. False "testimonials" provided by company affiliates posing as general consumers are not appropriate, and self-promotion of sales, ad campaigns, etc. through the discussion forums is not allowed.

Paid advertising is available on our classifieds site and through the purchase of banner ads. The tightly monitored Giveaways forum permits free listings of genuinely free horses and items available or wanted (on a limited basis). Items offered for trade are not allowed.

Advertising Policy Specifics
When in doubt of whether something you want to post constitutes advertising, please contact a moderator privately in advance for further clarification. Refer to the following points for general guidelines:

Horses – Only general discussion about the buying, leasing, selling and pricing of horses is permitted. If the post contains, or links to, the type of specific information typically found in a sales or wanted ad, and it’s related to a horse for sale, regardless of who’s selling it, it doesn’t belong in the discussion forums.

Stallions – Board members may ask for suggestions on breeding stallion recommendations. Stallion owners may reply to such queries by suggesting their own stallions, only if their horse fits the specific criteria of the original poster. Excessive promotion of a stallion by its owner or related parties is not permitted and will be addressed at the discretion of the moderators.

Services – Members may use the forums to ask for general recommendations of trainers, barns, shippers, farriers, etc., and other members may answer those requests by suggesting themselves or their company, if their services fulfill the specific criteria of the original post. Members may not solicit other members for business if it is not in response to a direct, genuine query.

Products – While members may ask for general opinions and suggestions on equipment, trailers, trucks, etc., they may not list the specific attributes for which they are in the market, as such posts serve as wanted ads.

Event Announcements – Members may post one notification of an upcoming event that may be of interest to fellow members, if the original poster does not benefit financially from the event. Such threads may not be “bumped” excessively. Premium members may post their own notices in the Event Announcements forum.

Charities/Rescues – Announcements for charitable or fundraising events can only be made for 501(c)(3) tax-exempt organizations. Special exceptions may be made, at the moderators’ discretion and direction, for board-related events or fundraising activities in extraordinary circumstances.

Occasional posts regarding horses available for adoption through IRS-registered horse rescue or placement programs are permitted in the appropriate forums, but these threads may be limited at the discretion of the moderators. Individuals may not advertise or make announcements for horses in need of rescue, placement or adoption unless the horse is available through a recognized rescue or placement agency or government-run entity or the thread fits the criteria for and is located in the Giveaways forum.

5. Do not post copyrighted photographs unless you have purchased that photo and have permission to do so.

6. Respect other members.
As members are often passionate about their beliefs and intentions can easily be misinterpreted in this type of environment, try to explore or resolve the inevitable disagreements that arise in the course of threads calmly and rationally.

If you see a post that you feel violates the rules of the board, please click the “alert” button (exclamation point inside of a triangle) in the bottom left corner of the post, which will alert ONLY the moderators to the post in question. They will then take whatever action, or no action, as deemed appropriate for the situation at their discretion. Do not air grievances regarding other posters or the moderators in the discussion forums.

Please be advised that adding another user to your “Ignore” list via your User Control Panel can be a useful tactic, which blocks posts and private messages by members whose commentary you’d rather avoid reading.

7. We have the right to reproduce statements made in the forums.
The Chronicle of the Horse may copy, quote, link to or otherwise reproduce posts, or portions of posts, in print or online for advertising or editorial purposes, if attributed to their original authors, and by posting in this forum, you hereby grant to The Chronicle of the Horse a perpetual, non-exclusive license under copyright and other rights, to do so.

8. We reserve the right to enforce and amend the rules.
The moderators may delete, edit, move or close any post or thread at any time, or refrain from doing any of the foregoing, in their discretion, and may suspend or revoke a user’s membership privileges at any time to maintain adherence to the rules and the general spirit of the forum. These rules may be amended at any time to address the current needs of the board.

Please see our full Terms of Service and Privacy Policy for more information.

Thanks for being a part of the COTH forums!

(Revised 1/26/16)
See more
See less

Manure removal near Boston??

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Manure removal near Boston??

    Just had a complaint from my neighbor about my manure pile being too close to his house and possibly some wetlands in his backyard.. Yikes, does anyone know a dumpster company that does manure removal?? , I live a few miles south of Boston. Any idea what it will cost? I have 4 horses so will need a larger size dumpster. Thanks !

  • #2
    The only one I remember was Mitrano, I think. It is very expensive, one of the many reasons I moved to Vermont.
    \"I refuse to engage in a battle of wits with someone who is unarmed.\"--Pogo


    • #3
      I teach at a barn that uses a huge dumpter removal company. I will look into it and send you a pm.


      • #4
        What do your local ordnances say ?

        Horse Manure Strategies: Compost It!

        Turn manure into garden gold with this easy system from a top waste-management expert.

        By Elaine Pascoe
        What do you love about keeping your horses at home? Bet you won't answer "manure." That manure mountain can become a real headache-it draws flies, annoys your neighbors, and may even be harmful to the environment.

        Here's a solution: Turn it into organic fertilizer with a simple, environmentally friendly composting system developed by an international expert. Sanitary engineer Sandra Cointreau-Levine travels around the world advising on waste disposal, but she designed this nifty setup for her own back-yard barn in Connecticut.

        We'll tell you how to adapt Sandra's system to your needs. If you do, you'll see the volume of your mound of manure and used bedding shrink by up to eighty percent-and find gardening friends and neighbors banging on your door, buckets in hand, to get the twenty percent that's left. Moreover, if you manage your compost piles correctly, flies and odors won't be a problem.

        WHY IT WORKS

        Here's why this system functions so well: It relies on aerobic microbes (microbes that need oxygen to live) to break down manure and other wastes. These microbes can't survive in a typical manure pile, because it shuts out oxygen. Anaerobic microbes (those that live without oxygen) do eventually decompose the manure in the pile, but much more slowly and less efficiently than their aerobic cousins-so the pile grows ever larger. And the anaerobes produce a lot of unpleasant byproducts, such as smelly ammonia sulfide and methane, which is one of the gases blamed for global warming.


        Sandra's system uses a series of three-sided compost bins made from wooden pallets, which are perfect for the job for several reasons.
        You can find them for free (try feed stores, factories, warehouses, and dump sites).
        Their slatted construction allows air to circulate around each bin.
        They're the right size. To generate enough heat for good decomposition, a compost pile needs to be at least 3 feet wide, 3 feet deep, and 3 feet tall. But if it's too much bigger, the material will be hard to turn, and air won't reach the center. Bins made of pallets, which are about 4 feet by 4 feet (sizes vary a little), are just right for composting manure.
        You can assemble bins in any configuration and move them easily. The flexible design lets you leave some areas for curing and do active composting in others, or remove partitions so a tractor loader attachment can get in to turn a pile or remove completed compost.
        WHAT GOES IN

        Manure and used bedding are the main ingredients. The manure yields a rich, soil-like compost loaded with nutrients plants need. The more bedding you have in the mix, the more fibrous and mulchlike your end product will be.

        Grass clippings and similar garden debris can go in, too. But add these materials in light layers, between manure-a big load of grass clippings can make the pile too wet and block oxygen, smothering the pile. Be careful about tossing weeds into the bins, too. Composting doesn't destroy all seeds, so including them may mean you'll spread weeds in your garden when you use the compost there.

        Kitchen scraps such as vegetable peelings (no meat!) compost well.

        You can add broken eggshells to the mixture to reduce acidity. That helps the microbial decomposition; when the compost is used, it can improve soil pH. (Just be sure you won't mind seeing bits of eggshell in your garden.)

        Coffee grounds and tea leaves are good additions for compost that will be used on acid-loving plants, such as evergreens and mushrooms. Consider creating a separate pile for use on these plants.

        You can toss in hair left from grooming horses and pets. Hair doesn't deteriorate as quickly as the other materials, so it adds a little fluff, helping to keep air in the pile. It also gives the finished compost some fibrous content. In the garden, that helps deter erosion and may improve soil aeration.

        WHAT TO DO

        Dump manure into the first bin. (If the manure's mixed with some bedding, you don't need to worry about layering it with other materials.) To jump-start the process, you can add commercial compost "seed" (available from garden centers), which contains an assortment of microbes that will enjoy composting your waste. Or add a little decomposed manure and topsoil from your pasture, which will also have such microbes.

        Add to the pile as you clean stalls and pick paddocks. If the pile attracts flies (Sandra never finds them around hers), cover fresh manure with a layer of working compost (either aged manure or some soil from the pasture) to deter them.

        When the first bin is full, start a second bin. Add some working compost from the first bin to get things started. "This is like making yogurt," says Sandra, "where you buy culture for the first batch and from then on use a little yogurt from the last batch to start the next batch." The piles will shrink as material decomposes, so keep adding material to maintain enough mass for good composting-4 feet by 4 feet by 4 feet is ideal.

        Turn each pile every seven to twelve days. This step is essential for keeping the aerobic microbes alive. Using a pitchfork, dig down into the center of the pile and flip material from the lower part to the top. Or turn the whole pile into the next bin, so what was on the bottom ends up on top. Note: If you're allergic to barn dust, wear a dust mask (a disposable one from the hardware store is fine) when you clean stalls and when you turn your compost. As Sandra points out, organic material has high levels of endotoxins that can trigger allergic reactions when airborne.

        Check that the material in the center of the pile is hot and steamy. If it isn't, the pile is either too small or being turned too often for heat to build up. The heat is important for decomposition and for killing fly eggs and other parasites.

        Sniff when you turn the pile; if you smell ammonia, you're not turning it often enough (or it may be too big). Ammonia sulfide gas is produced anaerobically-when there's no oxygen. As long as your pile is aerobic, there'll be no unpleasant smell.

        Keep the pile evenly moist. "There's a reason why there are mummies in Egypt-micro-organisms don't decompose organic matter when they have no water," Sandra says. Manure and moist bedding have just the right moisture level (fifty to sixty percent) when you put them in the pile; in many areas, with normal rainfall and temperatures you won't need to do anything. In hot, dry weather, you may need to spray the pile lightly with water to keep it from drying out. But don't soak the pile; it needs to be moist, not dripping wet. Saturating it will drown most of the aerobic microbes.

        Continue to turn each pile for at least six weeks after the final application of fresh manure. The rate of decomposition will vary depending on your climate, the kind of bedding you use, and other factors. Your compost is "done" when, a week after your last turning, you find no heat or steam in the pile.

        Let the finished pile stand for several months to "cure," or it will be too acidic to use on your garden. You don't need to turn it during this curing process.

        Use the cured compost in your garden to improve the soil, or as a mulch around trees or between plant rows.

        This article orginally appeared in the October 1999 issue of Practical Horseman magazine.
        ... _. ._ .._. .._


        • #5
          There are tons of regulations in Ma. concerning manure and composting.
          Call Farm Bureau.FB is in Ashland 881-4766, When I was with FB on the Equine advisory comm. we put a booklet together to help all horse farms of every size.


          • #6
            In regards to Equibrit's composting: I haul all our manure to a local large volume composter who then trades me his compost in exchange on a 5:1 basis. Other horse farms call this composter and he comes and loads the manure and hauls it away. Some charge to load and haul, other's may charge less if you load, etc. Everything will be dependent upon the hauling distance and the machine and labor time for loading if they have to provide it. I don't know of any composters in your immediate area, but I would check around.
            With 4 horses you are generating about 12 yards of manure/shavings a month...or a pretty good sized truckload. I use a 3 yard power dump trailer and take the manure once a week along with the household trash that I am taking to the waste transfer station which is also on the way.



            • #7
              Rabtfarm, you are so lucky. We pay to dump our manure at an organic farm, but in this area, we feel like we are lucky to have that option.