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Trailer matt arrangement

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  • Trailer matt arrangement

    I've been scrubbing and sanding and priming my trailer interior lately, which has got me thinking about crevasses, moisture and dirt.
    In my trailer, each wall has a rubber matt screwed along the horse area, covering maybe the lowest 2 1/2 feet of wall. Then the floor has a series of matts cut to be almost as wide as the trailer.
    This results in nice stable matts - but there is about 1/4 inch gap at each edge of the matt - wide enough to let shavings settle in, but to narrow to easily sweep out daily.

    I'm wondering if the matts could be laid out so each one started partway up the wall, then when it got to floor level if it made a 90 degree turn and extended halfway across the floor, where it could meet its' match from the other side.
    Assuming the matts could be pursuaded to make that right angle turn (I'm thinking through scoring the backside) would this just make a horrible moist airless tunnel o rustability, or might it save some matt moving effort?

    If anyone has any other solutions or suggestions for minimizing the number of places grunge can accumulate in a trailer, I would love to hear them!!
    http://wildwoodfarmnc.com

    http://cantersgutenberg.wordpress.co...g-quiet-goose/

  • #2
    Originally posted by Jeannette, formerly ponygyrl View Post
    I've been scrubbing and sanding and priming my trailer interior lately, which has got me thinking about crevasses, moisture and dirt.
    In my trailer, each wall has a rubber matt screwed along the horse area, covering maybe the lowest 2 1/2 feet of wall. Then the floor has a series of matts cut to be almost as wide as the trailer.
    This results in nice stable matts - but there is about 1/4 inch gap at each edge of the matt - wide enough to let shavings settle in, but to narrow to easily sweep out daily.

    I'm wondering if the matts could be laid out so each one started partway up the wall, then when it got to floor level if it made a 90 degree turn and extended halfway across the floor, where it could meet its' match from the other side.
    Assuming the matts could be pursuaded to make that right angle turn (I'm thinking through scoring the backside) would this just make a horrible moist airless tunnel o rustability, or might it save some matt moving effort?

    If anyone has any other solutions or suggestions for minimizing the number of places grunge can accumulate in a trailer, I would love to hear them!!



    I think i am getting what you are saying, im not sure how well you could make that 90 degree bend with the mat. i have come to the conclusion that the mats in my 3 horse just need to taken out and cleaned every so often to keep them clean underneath.

    Comment


    • #3
      The mats in my trailer run lengthwise on the floor - front to back.
      There are 4 very small holes (can't even get in the tip of my baby finger) in each corner of the trailer (factory installed with a rim).

      At least every other ride, I pull them out, sweep and rinse the floor. Hang the mats over the chest bar for a day and then drop them back down on the floor. They notch under the divider to stay in place.

      Don't have mats on the walls.
      You're entitled to your own opinion, not your own facts!

      Comment


      • #4
        I've got the same issue with mats and these days I'm just as tad more paranoid about moisture ... It was either the fact that the trailer is knocking on 17 (well cared for) years and not as watertight as it used to be or the fact that it rained every %@(*# day in winter. Probably both. Anyway, I always clean and then sweep/fork the shavings forward when I'm done. but I also started flipping the mats over toward the front and making sure the crevice between floor and wall was free of shavings too. It only took about another 5 minutes, and wasn't too difficult. Totally pulling the mats up would be a major task, but flipping them back on themselves wasn't too hard and kept the back half of the trailer clean and dry (and let's face it, that's where all the corrosive "action" is happening.

        It seems like a "seal" like a floor to wall molded mat wouldn't let the wood breath as much as you might want, but that is not based on any structural engineering knowledge, so feel free to ignore...
        Your crazy is showing. You might want to tuck that back in.

        Comment

        • Original Poster

          #5
          hmm. Not prone to ignore your feed back, DMK, even if I wonder sometimes who to root for when you and Tom King go head to head. [This based on an ancient memory of one time years ago when Tom and DMK had absolutely divergent views on prepping and painting jump rails. I count on them both for reliably good advice, so it made an impression, even as I noted the differences in how they were handling jumps which explained differences in how they might prep them...]

          Shouldn't the wood be able to breathe fine through its' bottom side and the cracks??

          But yes, pulling the back side up every other ride does make sense, and would be do-able. BBayngreys, at times I use my trailer 3X /week. Ain't no way I'm lifting matts over the chest bar that often - but it's a thought = taking the matt off at least the bottom foot of the wall would make sweeping and hosing the crack easier... Hmm. Thanks for that point to ponder.
          http://wildwoodfarmnc.com

          http://cantersgutenberg.wordpress.co...g-quiet-goose/

          Comment


          • #6
            LOL, Blast From the Past! I still claim zero credit for the knowledge on the painting of rails, other than passing along what one of the best known jump builders and FEI course builders taught me. Me, I can be counted on to be a moron, but this guy was a bit more experienced than most... Oh yeah, and those rails painted with the exterior paint? STILL flaking, 14 years later. Awesome. I feel vindicated all over again.

            But I agree about the wood on the bottom breathing - I was thinking more about that solid area where the wood and the wall meet, i.e., the source of my current paranoia.
            Your crazy is showing. You might want to tuck that back in.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by DMK View Post
              LOL, Blast From the Past! I still claim zero credit for the knowledge on the painting of rails, other than passing along what one of the best known jump builders and FEI course builders taught me. Me, I can be counted on to be a moron, but this guy was a bit more experienced than most... Oh yeah, and those rails painted with the exterior paint? STILL flaking, 14 years later. Awesome. I feel vindicated all over again.

              But I agree about the wood on the bottom breathing - I was thinking more about that solid area where the wood and the wall meet, i.e., the source of my current paranoia.


              I agree, they just wont breathe with the mats directly on top of the wood. I think there is a reason that manufacturers make the mats the way they do.



              (im seriously painting jumps right now, so how should i do it?)

              Comment


              • #8
                well the original "discussion" was about what paint to use on unpainted pressure treated wood. I had a few poles painted with good quality exterior paint and the paint just kept flaking (still does, as a matter of fact). The advice I got that has worked beautifully was to use fence stain (presumably white, but whatever floats your boat) and then you can use exterior house paint on top if you need add'l colors. Works like a charm for me, and I even use spray paint (suitable for wood/exterior) to put stripes on poles and they hold up just fine.
                Your crazy is showing. You might want to tuck that back in.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by DMK View Post
                  well the original "discussion" was about what paint to use on unpainted pressure treated wood. I had a few poles painted with good quality exterior paint and the paint just kept flaking (still does, as a matter of fact). The advice I got that has worked beautifully was to use fence stain (presumably white, but whatever floats your boat) and then you can use exterior house paint on top if you need add'l colors. Works like a charm for me, and I even use spray paint (suitable for wood/exterior) to put stripes on poles and they hold up just fine.

                  awesome, good to know. I have been spending hours and hours grinding off layers of paint left by others who have just slapped on paint on top of older peeling paint, some poles i have ground through 6 different colors!

                  Comment

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