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How much did u pay for your sway bars?

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  • How much did u pay for your sway bars?

    Hey guys!
    I am looking around for sway bars and weight distribution hitch and all I can find are ones around $490, does that sound right? What are the other brands besides Equalizer?

  • #2
    I got mine from a Trailer shop and had them installed and it was around $600.

    Make sure you like the sway bar connection though.. mine is a pain in the @ss, really hard to attach; it's a pin and groove type system so you have to shove the sway bar into a hole and jerk it up and down until the pin finds the groove.

    Really annoying esp when you're late for a lesson and it's cold and raining!
    http://www.clarkdesigngrouparchitects.com/index.html - Lets build your dream barn


    • #3
      mine came with the trailer...trailer has been sold, but i still have it, too bad you dont live closer!


      • #4
        I had an EZE-Lift, the bars are fine, but the hitch itself wore out (there's a little ridge inside the bars go up into.) When I was shopping, it was around $500 for a new hitch and bars.

        It was only like $75 to have the trailer part installed--the clippy thingies that you put the chain on and draw up... and they had to cut the sheet metal on the covered bars on the frame going to the tongue (that triangle part from trailer to hitch) to put them in.

        But Lord Almighty... replacement SUCKS.

        I'm doing without ATM, which is fine with the monster truck and one horse. I might be loading up 3 slanted though in the fall for a road trip, and I'd really *like* weight distribution.
        InnisFailte Pinto Sporthorses & Coloured Cobs

        Bits are like cats, what's one more? (Petstorejunkie)


        • #5
          Not sure how handy you are, or trailer model. Husband put the clamp-on fixtures on the trailer-hitch arms fo trailer itself. They had the hinged drop-down for the chain, lifted to latch for travel Brackets fit on the V shaped beams coming from under trailer to locking hitch. Brackets were a shaped to fit around the heavy rectangular beams, just tighten down the bolts to anchor them in place, ready to use.

          He also purchased the sway bars, cut them to length needed to reach the bracket/fixtures on the trailer, put the chain attachements back on bars. I already had the truck hitch side, with the holes beside the ball for setting in the heavy end of sway bars. Probably didn't take him even two hours, including changing bar length, chain reattachment, to get the whole thing done.

          Prices of parts are not cheap. Those clamp-on brackets/fixtures were over $125 a pair, and that was a long time ago. I believe ours were Reese parts, to go with the Reese hitch on the truck. He said then when he bought our new bars, that sway bars only came in one size. So if you have a trailer with a long tongue, you can just use them with no modification. We had a Rustler trailer then, short tonged hitch, so bars needed shortening to work for us.

          There is quite a bit of information, visuals, if you do a seach under "Weight Distribution Hitch Setup" from hitch makers and the RV folks.

          Using sway bars for quite a few years, you need to know that sometimes you must change the link of chain you hitch normally, to accomodate heavier or lighter load behind. Not sure of your physical size, but latching the chains on trailer brackets, should take a little effort. Might be a bigger effort, if you are a small person. The work is needed to "bend" the sway bars to move the weight onto the truck, hence the name "weight distributing hitch". The longer the bars, the easier lift, I have found. The longer end is tapered, thinner, not as stiff as the cut-off bars can be to get the same lift onto your truck.

          The best item to help YOU do up that chain attachment latching is a short piece of pipe. If you are smaller, not strong, get a bit longer piece of pipe for better leverage. They gave me my pipe, was about 18" long when I had the truck hitch installed. Actually some kind of heavy walled conduit pipe, not steel water pipe stuff, maybe an inch in diameter. You put one open end of pipe on the lifter peg over the chain peg on the drop down part, just lift the pipe end and lock the bracket part down to itself. That pipe was AMAZING. Made everything SO EASY to hitch with. The one time I misplaced the pipe, I had to get the jack out and jack things around to get the drop down arms up enough to latch in place!! I was shocked at how such a simple tool made things easy for me.

          I had a friend who had a trailer with fixed chain pegs for her sway bars, no drop down part to the setup. She had to jack the trailer up EVERY time she wanted to use it! What a LOT OF WORK! She didn't even KNOW they had drop down types to put chains on until I told her. She got a pair and added them on her trailer immediately!! Thanked me many times for reducing the work of hitching.

          Anyway, a home-installed idea for you. Does need that handy workshop to cut and drill the sway bars if they are too long for the trailer tongue. Otherwise you should be able to put them on at home for cost of parts. Again, I already had the correct hitch for sway bars on my truck. But they sell those too, if you have the correct hitch receiver on your truck to pull the load.


          • #6
            I have a set of WD bars that came on a used RV we bought and I don't think they've ever been used. I'll never use them.



            • #7
              I think I paid around $450 or so for mine with the hitch a few years ago. I have the equalizer, I'm not sure if there are other brands.
              Anyway they installed everything right onto the trailer and truck one morning at the RV place and I was good to go. You definitely can pick them up used if you look around craigslist and ebay, (or here, haha) to save some cash.