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  • Fencing....

    What do you believe is the best fencing options if money wasn't a consideration....but I have a few requirements
    1) not hot-wire
    2) must be over 6 feet (lots of big jumpers)
    3) low enough to the ground so the minis don't get out
    4) looks good from the road


  • #2
    I'm not sure if it fits in the hot wire category but i use electrobraid. I like it very much because it teaches the youngsters to respect fencing, it flexes if they get tangled in it and it is unobtrusive from the road. I have had several young horses get tangled or caught jumping it with not a scratch on them. I would not use any other brand becasue electrobraid is the best. I've had mine for 12 years in the intense sun in SW Colorado at 8000' and it's still doing fine.
    Erica H. Max
    Fire Hjorner Farm
    Breeders and Importers of Danish Warmbloods



    • #3
      Why no hotwire? If I had big jumpers a hotwire would be the FIRST thing on my list. If money were no consideration I would have V-mesh horse fencing, black posts, and black sight board on the top with a hotwire chest height (for minis and big horses) and at the top to discourage leaning.


      • Original Poster

        Had bad experiences with hot wire and HATE the look....and I honestly do not find it safe...I have had multiple run through it to the road...


        • #5
          Originally posted by *horsiejumper* View Post
          Had bad experiences with hot wire and HATE the look....and I honestly do not find it safe...I have had multiple run through it to the road...
          I'm not talking about ONLY using hot wire. Adding it to an existing fence will only reinforce that fence. I do not like plain metal hot wire, electrobraid, or many others, but I like the Centaur/Ramm type coated hotwire. You can get it in black, white, and brown and it looks very finished.


          • #6
            Have you considered the flexible rail type of fencing or a combination of it with
            coated wire? You can make it as high as you want but would need additional
            rails or strands to make the six foot height as the normal fence height is 54 inches or 4.5 feet high. This would require slightly longer fence posts to make sure they deep enough in the ground.

            Some of the non-climb comes in higher versions and you can make up the difference with a top rail or two of flexible, board, etc.

            With your height requirements plus having it low enough to keep minis in, you will need extra rails of wood, flexible rail. So plan on some extra $$$$ for longer
            fence posts, more rails, higher non-climb, whatever you choose.


            • #7
              Well, it may force me into bankrupcy, but I am in the process of putting up a 7 board post & rail fence right now. The posts are 6" X 6"s for the straight runs and 8" X 8"s for the curved corners and the gate posts. The rails are 2" X 6". All treated wood. It is 5'5" tall at the top of the top rail going on the uphill runs and 6'3" - 7' tall on the downhill runs. All rails are screwed to the posts, not nailed. Rails spaced 4" apart.

              The 6"s are sunk 3 feet into the ground and the 8"s are sunk 4 foot. All posts sunk in cement. It is in clay and has a wet weather creek that runs, you guessed it, when it is wet.

              It has a 648' perimeter and I think it might be 3/4 of an acre.

              ETA: the posts will be sawn off six inches above the top of the top rail using a Chanford (spelling?) cut.


              • #8
                If money is no object I do like board fencing, but seven boards and they're all 2x6? Oh, my.

                We used 2x6 on the top board and 1x6 for the rest on a four board fence, but I was only trying to contain the Ancient Appaloosa, who really wasn't interested in leaving.
                ... and Patrick


                • #9
                  One of the 'requirements' for this fence was that dogs could not get into it (except for small ones).


                  • #10
                    I really like my no climb fencing, it's not the absolute most attractive but I like it for the most part.
                    Who needs wings when you've got a jumper?


                    • #11
                      I love no-climb, but some of the hills around here make it hard to stretch and go up and down. Ask me how I know this


                      • #12
                        I really like the look of flex fence, and it seems really safe also. I would add electric to prevent leaning, but other than that, it's my favorite for look (I like the dark brown one) , safety, low maintenance, etc.
                        Here's an example: http://www.systemhorse.com/pages/fence5inch/index.html
                        "When life gives you scurvy, make lemonade."


                        • #13
                          Baroque, I think you win for money is no object. Seven 2x6's could stop a truck. I'm impressed, I thought DH was going for overkill (he calls it safety consciousness) with mixed 2x4 and 2x6 on a restraining chute for pigs.

                          I would go with the diamond v and a sight board also, you can get it in 6' heights and I have seen it used for mini's and a camel!, they used double sight boards with about a six inch gap so it was possibly as tall as 7' 6".

                          Now, as for what I am using, three strands of electrobraid on capped t-posts. It's versatile stuff and looks quite nice. Not on the road frontage though. I may cave over time and use it there but I really want a solid, dog-proof perimeter fence. My own dog has learned through experience to stay away from the hot wires, but it took a while and strange dogs might run through, get hurt, and cause mayhem anyway.

                          Oh yeah, my version of money is no object? Use up all these rocks and build one of those beautiful stone walls you see around here!
                          Courageous Weenie Eventer Wannabe
                          Incredible Invisible


                          • #14
                            The size of your paddock/pasture will make a difference. For a smaller paddock (where horse would come in contact with fence more or would be more likely to challenge it) I would use steel railing (as many rails as needed to be low enough and high enough). Painted white or black, it will look great. If you have a larger paddock that will have less "challenging" on the fence, you could use the flexible rail fencing (like from Ramm fencing). We have that and it looks great but I would suggest putting concrete in every post hole if you think your horse may want to lean/push against the fence. Unfortunately it is so horse friendly that the horses don't have any problem leaning up against them which makes the posts tilt (unless you put concrete in every post hole). The flexible fencing is very easy to install and if you use a company like Ramm then you will get great customer service too!


                            • #15
                              I love my four rail flexible fencing with a single coated hot wire on top to keep them from hanging on the fence line. I've had it three years now.