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Which electric charger would you pick?

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  • Which electric charger would you pick?

    It's getting down to the wire here and i need to order a charger. I have a dumb question... can a charger be TOO strong for a pasture? We are building 2 smaller pastures (maybe 2 miles off the top of my head, maybe a little more) but would eventually like to have the possibility of connecting the fences should we get more land. The charger might not even be around anymore so who knows. Regardless, can you have a charger that's too strong? I live off a busy road and will potentially have a stallion there. There are multiple electric wires if that makes a difference.

    http://www.jefferspet.com/ssc/produc...&pf_id=0028431

    http://www.kencove.com/fence/detail.php?code=EXD6

    http://www.jeffersequine.com/ssc/pro...&pf_id=0031720

  • #2
    I don't think you can purchase a fence charger too strong. Remember there will be weeds and broken insulators in the days to come. You can't build a grounding grid too big either. A MINIMUM of three 8 foot ground rods 10 feet apart, connected with UL listed direct burial clamps and 8 gauge or better solid bare copper wire. Don't get any thing less. Do it right the first time.

    Yet, this will be all for naught if you don't maintain the fence. Keep the weeds off, insulators and connections doing their job.
    Equus makus brokus but happy

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    • #3
      My question would be -- where are you? Are you where things are green and humid all the growing season, or are you in the land of dry and arid nine months of the year, like me?

      this catalog: http://www.premier1supplies.com/

      is practically a textbook in hot fencing. What you want in a charger for the first situation is not what you want in a charger for the second situation. So I would get their catalog, read it, and then call them (nice people and the advice is free).

      btw, hosspuller is SO right about the grounding grid. Also, grounding grid should not be near a metal stock tank (learned THAT the hard way).
      Originally posted by HuntrJumpr
      No matter what level of showing you're doing, you are required to have pants on.

      Comment

      • Original Poster

        #4
        I'm in Indiana so we get pretty nice seasons. It gets dry pretty often in the summer, but for the most part there's still grass. It's nice flat ground with no out of control weeds. The fence will be going between a couple of trees, but they shouldn't come in contact with it.

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        • #5
          You know what I'm going to say, but the second choice will never be too strong for anything with the cyclic wave, and it won't matter if grass or trees touch the fence. Of course it's always better to have everything cleared away but sometimes somethings going to happen. Hurricane Fran dropped a bunch of trees across our fence, knocking a big section down. The fence was still kicking and all horses were still in. Do it right to start with.
          www.HistoricHousePreservation.com

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          • Original Poster

            #6
            Thanks, but I guess I don't understand why the Stafix is better, but I want to! The Stafix is 6 joule and the Parmak (rangemaster) is 12.5 joules. I thought that was important as to the strength of the shock, fence, etc. No?

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            • #7
              I have a 50 mile plug in charger on about maybe 3 miles of fence.

              Trust me, they only touch it once. This is after dealing with a terrible solar charger. Those batteries die really quickly and are expensive to replace. If you can get a plug in, I would recommend that way over a solar.

              I have a field that is flood plain, and I cannot put in wood posts, so it is totally done in t-posts and 2 strands poly wire. I never have escapes anymore! I will also say that the ground rods are VITAL to the operation!

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