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Another fence question... spinoff of a spinoff.

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  • Another fence question... spinoff of a spinoff.

    SO We know we need no climb for safety, but we have a short amount of road frontage that I would like LOTS of visibility.. and nothing but nothing beats the visibilty of 4 rail horse fence for visibility... so.. how do I give the appearance of 4 rail without breaking the bank. I was thinking 1x6es nailed to the outside of the posts that the noclimb is attached to on the inside and paint. viola!

    I'm sure there are downsides to this idea... please point them out ot me and suggest remedy.
    If i'm posting on Coth, it's either raining so I can't ride or it's night time and I can't sleep.

  • #2
    Downside: Neighbor brats and wander-ins WILL be able to climb your 'no climb' fence.

    Only remedy I can think of (aside from shooting trespassing miscreants in the backside with a shotgun loaded with rocksalt) is planting stinging nettles and/or bull thistles along the outside of the fence...


    • Original Poster

      G&B... hmm I hadn't thought about that.... dangit... new question for Julie.... can you climb on the centaur stuff that LOOKS like rail....

      the no climb fence was really more inteneded to keep maurading k9s out and chickens in. People are asshats.. I have learned to accept that fact. If they really want in.. they will find a way. I'd just prefer people not drive THROUGH my fence because they didn't see it.
      If i'm posting on Coth, it's either raining so I can't ride or it's night time and I can't sleep.


      • #4
        Can you add a hot wire on top?

        If the posts are wood, couldn't you use a higher profile nail in wire holder that would lift the wire up and off the no-climb fencing? It would take care of any people trying to get into the fields.

        That being said, straddling 3 or 4 board would be easy too. I have a hot wire on top of mine all the way throughout the paddocks...because as written earlier people are asshats. Love that!


        • #5
          How getting house/gutter plastic trim and nailing that to the outside. In our garden we have 30 foot black rubber trim designed to provide a garden border, its about 3 inches high. If you use that on the outside (maybe in white) it gives the illusion of a board but can hold no weight.


          • #6
            They won't be able to climb it very well as it flexes. Thought about a top rail of Centaur
            or the electric version HotRail? It is pricey, though.

            Other thoughts would be a hot wire on top, perhaps one of the coated ones for more
            visibility. If you decide to use wood planks, I'd go with the regular fence boards and
            not 2 x 6 from Home Depot that aren't treated. You would also use just one board on
            the top which woudl be less upkeep.

            I've also seen the non-climb painted for visibility.


            • Original Poster

              i'm going to use 48 inch no climb the 2 strands of electris tape to bring i up to 60 and add visibilty. that will be on the inside on the posts. so there will already be hot running on the fence. i was thinking 1x6 treated pine boards and the paint them... for the look.. it's only 50ft of road frontage. it's going to be gated as it is the drive way entrace.. so i guess if the asshats want in they might just use the gate.

              painting non climb sounds messy and a pita.
              If i'm posting on Coth, it's either raining so I can't ride or it's night time and I can't sleep.


              • #8
                Okay, googling "no climb fence painted" I got this result to where no climb refers to humans. (sorry for the hijack, couldn't resist).


                • Original Poster

                  Chall... you are welcome to hijack my thread anyday.... that is pretty cool... I can think of a few other applications that it would be amusing to use with a hidden camera. tee hee... I would think most logical way to paint no climb wire would be with a sprayer... adn I'm not that interested in that much labor... that fence is a PITA to install.
                  If i'm posting on Coth, it's either raining so I can't ride or it's night time and I can't sleep.


                  • #10
                    As long as electric is in the picture...[imagine the devil-horn emoticon, which we don't have] Put up your board rails on the outside -- and make sure the electric on top is such that they MUST touch both the electric tape AND the no-climb at the same time (make sure no-climb is grounded real good).

                    Hook up a "knock-'em-into-the-middle-of-next-week" fence energizer.

                    (If they stand on the board fence, they won't get a shock from the electric tape.)


                    • #11
                      Couldn't you put the 1x6 on the inside of the fence? No animal would be able to "climb" it without the boards breaking, and no outside entry, either.
                      Click here before you buy.


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by deltawave View Post
                        Couldn't you put the 1x6 on the inside of the fence? No animal would be able to "climb" it without the boards breaking, and no outside entry, either.
                        Now, that is thinking outside the box.

                        If you are going for three lines of sight on only 50', buying 150' of Centaur flexible fence, the wide band, may not cost even as much as wood, look like it, not need painting and not be easy to climb:



                        • Original Poster

                          I was thinking the Centuar HTP might be cost effective option for all the reasons Bluey listed.... and Deltawaves desprition is what Tom King recommended for no climb and board. That may be how we go, but then if a board has to be replaced I have to take the wire off first.... good things to think about.. thanks all!
                          If i'm posting on Coth, it's either raining so I can't ride or it's night time and I can't sleep.


                          • #14
                            That's why I said to straighten the legs of the staples and not pound them in to the point that the wire deformed-so you can get them back out when repairs need to be made like replacing a board behind it.