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Proper base for riding arena?

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    #21
    What if it is indoors?

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      #22
      Yes, that base (right below the top footing) needs to be able to have a truck drive across it and not leave tire tracks, AND it needs to drain well.

      Why? It needs to support, not eat, your footing, and it needs to get that water away from the footing as fast as possible.

      If it's not flat, water will pool and eventually you'll get "waves" in your ring.

      The compacted sub-base should (ideally) *not* drain, but water should run across it and get out of your arena
      ______________________________
      The CoTH CYA - please consult w/your veterinarian under any and all circumstances. - ET

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        #23
        My understanding and open to correction - putting in an indoor currently. Yes, an indoor needs a proper base. It provides a surface UNDER your footing for support and a bit of traction. If a hoof goes through the footing TO the base, they push off versus slip. And a proper base definition is compacted to 95% and tested.

        JB, are you saying that the sub base under an indoor would somehow take on water? Like from under the ground or around the building?

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          #24
          Originally posted by PaddockWood View Post

          JB, are you saying that the sub base under an indoor would somehow take on water? Like from under the ground or around the building?
          Uh, what? LOL! Not at all. Water needs to go through the loose and permeable top footing.

          It needs to go through the "solid" and permeable base.

          It needs to hit the solid sub-base and exit the ring.

          ______________________________
          The CoTH CYA - please consult w/your veterinarian under any and all circumstances. - ET

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            #25
            Originally posted by SCF01 View Post
            Digging up this old thread....

            Question for those that know.
            The base or sub-base, whatever is just under your sand, shouldn't that be perfectly flat (with the 1-2% grade) and concrete hard-compacted before sand is added?

            Im at that phase in construction, told the guy
            to stop as he wanted to add sand.

            Base wasnt smooth enough IMO, grade looked a little off and seemed more like a giant speed bump down the middle, after it rained I walked a horse on it and sank up to coronet bands
            It should definitely not allow a horse to sink several inches like that YI'm not even sure how he thinks he can back a truck on that to even dump the footing.
            COTH's official mini-donk enabler

            "I am all for reaching out, but in some situations it needs to be done with a rolled up news paper." Alagirl

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              #26
              So it was right after a hard heavy rain but I still think the hooves shouldn't have sunk in like that. Two days later, hard as a rock.

              I think I have two options at this point. Let him try and further compact this base or have him add a few inches of compacted stone dust. One or the other before adding sand.

              I feel like this is the most expensive sand arena in history 🤦‍♀️

              Comment


                #27
                Originally posted by SCF01 View Post
                So it was right after a hard heavy rain but I still think the hooves shouldn't have sunk in like that. Two days later, hard as a rock.
                No, feet shouldn't have sunk, as the whole point of compacting this sub-base is to have water run OFF it, not into it

                I think I have two options at this point. Let him try and further compact this base
                What is this sub-base?

                or have him add a few inches of compacted stone dust.
                Nope, because anything that can be sunk into after a good rain, is going to eat whatever material is on top of it, eventually

                I feel like this is the most expensive sand arena in history 🤦‍♀️
                I feel your pain :\
                ______________________________
                The CoTH CYA - please consult w/your veterinarian under any and all circumstances. - ET

                Comment


                  #28
                  Originally posted by IslandGirl View Post
                  A minimum of six inches of stone dust (also known as bluestone or #10 screenings) compacted to between 96% and 98%.
                  Having a proper underlayment to it is important. This is where your local sand and gravel contractor comes in as hey know the ground you are dealing with, as well as the materials available.
                  Some riders change their horse, they change their saddle, they change their teacher; they never change themselves.

                  Remember the horse does all the work, we just sit there and look pretty.

                  Comment


                    #29
                    Originally posted by JB View Post
                    No, feet shouldn't have sunk, as the whole point of compacting this sub-base is to have water run OFF it, not into it


                    What is this sub-base?


                    Nope, because anything that can be sunk into after a good rain, is going to eat whatever material is on top of it, eventually



                    I feel your pain :\
                    Sub base is crushed shale. They use it to build roads and building pads. Im not familiar with it but I told him a hundred times, it needs to be hard and smooth like concrete before any sand goes on it.

                    I think adding a few inches of compacted bluestone might be the only option. It rained again hard last night. I can leave footprints in it this morning 😭

                    Comment


                      #30
                      After you have stripped down to the clay and leveled, four inches of street compacted screenings is recommended- and let it sit and bake in the sun for at least 30 days. THEN you can add your sand and rubber or whatever.
                      When someone shows you who they are, BELIEVE them- Maya Angelou
                      www.americansaddlebredsporthorse.net
                      http://www.asbsporthorse.blogspot.com/

                      Comment


                        #31
                        Originally posted by ASB Stars View Post
                        After you have stripped down to the clay and leveled, four inches of street compacted screenings is recommended- and let it sit and bake in the sun for at least 30 days. THEN you can add your sand and rubber or whatever.
                        Weve already got about 9 inches of this compacted shale on top of clay. We had to raise one end of the surface up to make it level.

                        Comment


                          #32
                          Originally posted by SCF01 View Post

                          Sub base is crushed shale. They use it to build roads and building pads. Im not familiar with it but I told him a hundred times, it needs to be hard and smooth like concrete before any sand goes on it.
                          I don't know enough about shale to know how hard it can compact, given a fine enough particle size - I'd guess pretty hard IF you've got the particles small enough, just like anything else


                          I think adding a few inches of compacted bluestone might be the only option. It rained again hard last night. I can leave footprints in it this morning 😭
                          I think that's throwing a problem on top of a problem. If that base does not get compacted properly, you will have problems working their way up sooner or later.

                          what exactly did he do to attempt to compact this? It's got to be a vibrating roller.
                          ______________________________
                          The CoTH CYA - please consult w/your veterinarian under any and all circumstances. - ET

                          Comment


                            #33
                            Originally posted by SCF01 View Post

                            Weve already got about 9 inches of this compacted shale on top of clay. We had to raise one end of the surface up to make it level.
                            That's about how mine was, with screened sandrock as the base on top of compacted red clay as the sub-base, with one end a lot deeper than the other to raise it to "level".

                            Knowing (or realizing, maybe I've totally missed this the whole time), this shale is your base, then the water shouldn't run off it like the sub-based, but it does need to go through it. However, you still shouldn't be able to make footprints of any sort. And definitely do not add your top footing to this, or any other attempt at a base, if the shale is that soft
                            ______________________________
                            The CoTH CYA - please consult w/your veterinarian under any and all circumstances. - ET

                            Comment


                              #34
                              Originally posted by JB View Post
                              I don't know enough about shale to know how hard it can compact, given a fine enough particle size - I'd guess pretty hard IF you've got the particles small enough, just like anything else



                              I think that's throwing a problem on top of a problem. If that base does not get compacted properly, you will have problems working their way up sooner or later.

                              what exactly did he do to attempt to compact this? It's got to be a vibrating roller.
                              He used a vibratory roller. Maybe just not enough?

                              I thought the water was supposed to run off after it goes through the sand?

                              We had about an inch of rain last night. Took this pic this morning.

                              Comment


                                #35
                                Water needs to flow quickly through the top footing.

                                It then needs to filter through the base.

                                It then needs to run out of the area across the sub-base

                                Your bottom-most layer needs to get the water out of the way as fast as possible. That means it needs to be impermeable, and "as fast as possible" is determined by the grade of slope you have, which is determined by how the ring sits in the surrounding area. Mine is basically cut into a slope, so it didn't make sense to crown it in the middle and have short half-arena lengths to eliminate water, so it slopes from the long side on the high end, to the long side on the low end, a roughly 2* slope across.
                                ______________________________
                                The CoTH CYA - please consult w/your veterinarian under any and all circumstances. - ET

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