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Fencing Quotes

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  • Fencing Quotes

    I am looking at a piece of property that has no existing horse facilities, so I will need to do fencing from scratch. I realize that prices will vary based on location and other factors, but I'd like to get some ballpark figures from folks who have gotten somewhat recent fence quotes. Also interested in hearing about costs from the "do it yourselfers," as I'll be on a tight budget.

    Type of fencing?
    Cost per foot?
    Professionally installed or DIY?
    Etc, etc.


  • #2
    We just did a hybrid fencing job. We supplied the posts and a local fellow charged us $5/post to put them in. My SO is running a combination of Ramm fencing flexi vinyl and hot coated wire. The wire we got from TSC.
    Epona Farm
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    • #3
      Two years ago we had four board oak fencing put in, it was $5/foot. And these guys were fabulous.
      We're spending our money on horses and bourbon. The rest we're just wasting.


      • #4
        Since you're in Tennessee, your costs will probably be less than mine.

        The best bang-for-your-buck fence is Horseguard. It is an electric fence - and I hate electric fences - but it works well and is not bad looking. They have a website - http://www.horseguardfence.com/ - and there are calculators. They also have a nice printed catalog you can request. For 4 strands of HorseGuard, a charger, run on T-posts with simple caps 16' apart, you can probably get it done for about $2 a foot. This is a fairly easy fence to install yourself.

        The downside to Horseguard is that it does depend on the electricity to contain the horses. If you have a horse who will regularly test the fence, they can and will go through. I have a pony with a thick winter coat, and if I ever accidentally leave the fence off or have it shorted, she can go through.

        It's nice to have two layers of any fence - a perimeter fence and an inside pasture fence. They're less likely to go through two fence lines.

        I have a 5' fortress of no-climb wire with a top strand of the Ramm flex fence for my sacrifice area. The posts are 8' apart. I quite like this fence. It ran about $5 a foot for the long runs and $10 a foot for the corners and the gates. This is again, DIY, and with California delivery and sales tax and materials costs.

        Ramm has a wonderful printed catalog with a lot of different fence styles. It will help you to see what is available and compare costs. http://www.rammfence.com/index.php

        Fencing gets very expensive very quickly. The thing to remember is that money you don't spend on your fence may be spent at your veterinarian.

        A very large acreage is obviously very expensive to fence - but if you're fencing a very large area, the horses will also test it less. Small sacrifice paddocks with green grass on the other side need a different treatment than 100 acre pastures with lush growth.

        And finally, the horses you are fencing matters. A couple of well fed elderly horses will be a lot less trouble than young ponies on a dry lot who only have the two emotions: hungry and eating.
        If you are allergic to a thing, it is best not to put that thing in your mouth, particularly if the thing is cats. - Lemony Snicket


        • #5
          I put four board in a couple months ago at $7.25 a foot that includes some discount for quantity as I put in quite a bit. Driven post--no concrete. It'll cost me another $1 a foot to paint. There are some hungry fencers out there at the moment so it's a good time to buy. I'm happy with the job I got so if you want a reference PM me.


          • #6
            We hired 3 board oak put in this past summer for $5.60 a linear foot & $25 a gate to install each gate & slam latch (which I supplied). This was total cost for materials & labor.


            • #7

              Yeah, we had wood fencing put in two years ago and it was $5.50 a foot.

              However here's one thing we did to save dough. We ran the board fencing wherever you can see it and then ran electric fence wherever you can't see. We are in NY and have very thick stands of trees, wild rose bushes, etc. That saved us a lot of money as we have 17 acres. Also, we ran actual snow fence (the wood kind) way up in back where no one could see.

              You'd be surprised at how well that works nailed to each tree as you go along an old stone wall. Again, it's in areas where we are thick with trees. Snow fencing isn't safe if you have an open area. Even with the green, metal T-posts, it's just not very horse hardy.
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              • Original Poster

                I'd be fencing about 4.5-5 acres, so not a huge parcel. My Percheron will test a non-solid fence so I'd rather not do straight up electric, though it is an attractive option from a cost perspective. They are currently living in part field fence, part no-climb, with 2" hot tape along the top for a sight line and to keep them off the fence. I know the field fence isn't ideal but they are lazy, mature equines and stay out of it....it is solid enough in appearance that the Perchie doesn't test it, and the hot tape on top keeps them off of it.

                I will have to go as inexpensive as possible, as I will be on a super tight budget, but it needs to be properly installed and safe.


                • #9
                  If he's respectful of electric now, I would try the horseguard but 4-5 strands.
                  If you are allergic to a thing, it is best not to put that thing in your mouth, particularly if the thing is cats. - Lemony Snicket


                  • #10
                    With some of the woven wire types, you can space your posts up to 16' feet apart. That's what I did. Having your posts put in and then doing the woven wire yourself will pretty cost effective.

                    I recently had roughly 500' of 5' tall 2" woven wire put in. 2, 12' gates; 1, 6' gate and they moved a 16' gate. So I had MANY end posts that required the extra posts and reinforcement. That is what drove my costs up. The total was around $2000 and I have about 150' of fence left over.

                    A few years ago, I had perimeter fence put in on 2 acres. Again, 5' tall woven on 16' spaced posts. 2, 6' gates and 1, 16' gate on that. That cost around $3500. Posts were driven into the ground.


                    • #11
                      We had non-climb wire w/ oak top rail and 4-board oak put in last year. Pounded locust posts (angled off after installation) and all gates included and hung. For the 4-board we paid $9/linear foot and for non-climb with toprail we paid $8/linear foot. Sounds like we paid a bit more than others but I do have to say our fence installer did a fabulous job and I've never had a contractor come in and get out as efficiently as they did. And they cleaned up after themselves like I've never seen! (Worth a lot when you're dealing with nails, screws & wire etc.!)


                      • #12
                        2 x 4 no climb wire fence 4ft high rolls are about $300 plus per 200 ft roll.
                        Gates the nice ones Metal w/ mesh along bottom $204.00
                        Oak boards $6.00 per board 16ft long pick up price.
                        Locust posts picked up $6.00
                        Fence guy w/ pounder charges $50.00 hour and brings help.
                        The Poly coated elec tensil can be gotten from Ramm rather cheaply this time of year, January to Feb.they run great sales and its in I think 300 ft rolls.

                        It cost me $5,000. to put up 2, 80 x 160 triple oak board paddocks from scratch, double fenced rowed.

                        The up side of wood is no corner brace sections which w/ wire you have to have on every corner and both sides of the gate, they run extra.
                        1 tip if you run wire and use brace sections I either 45 the corners w/ a board or cover the brace wire with boards least a horse stick a foot in it.

                        I don't put boards along top of my 2x4 I run the poly coat hot wire to keep them off fence. I have stallions and TB's only here.
                        as we replace the exsisting fence i have opted to get rid of the top boards, so tired of nailing or screwing them up, seeing them get chewed or cribbed. For appearence sake we run white Rmm Centaur along the outside top but you have to tighten it and when it sags its ugly.