• Welcome to the Chronicle Forums.
    Please complete your profile. The forums and the rest of www.chronofhorse.com has single sign-in, so your log in information for one will automatically work for the other. Disclaimer: The opinions expressed here are the views of the individual and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of The Chronicle of the Horse.



Forum rules and no-advertising policy

As a participant on this forum, it is your responsibility to know and follow our rules. Please read this message in its entirety.

Board Rules

1. You’re responsible for what you say.
As outlined in Section 230 of the Communications Decency Act, The Chronicle of the Horse and its affiliates, as well Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd., the developers of vBulletin, are not legally responsible for statements made in the forums.

This is a public forum viewed by a wide spectrum of people, so please be mindful of what you say and who might be reading it—details of personal disputes are likely better handled privately. While posters are legally responsible for their statements, the moderators may in their discretion remove or edit posts that violate these rules. Users have the ability to modify or delete their own messages after posting, but administrators generally will not delete posts, threads or accounts upon request.

Outright inflammatory, vulgar, harassing, malicious or otherwise inappropriate statements and criminal charges unsubstantiated by a reputable news source or legal documentation will not be tolerated and will be dealt with at the discretion of the moderators.

2. Conversations in horse-related forums should be horse-related.
The forums are a wonderful source of information and support for members of the horse community. While it’s understandably tempting to share information or search for input on other topics upon which members might have a similar level of knowledge, members must maintain the focus on horses.

3. Keep conversations productive, on topic and civil.
Discussion and disagreement are inevitable and encouraged; personal insults, diatribes and sniping comments are unproductive and unacceptable. Whether a subject is light-hearted or serious, keep posts focused on the current topic and of general interest to other participants of that thread. Utilize the private message feature or personal email where appropriate to address side topics or personal issues not related to the topic at large.

4. No advertising in the discussion forums.
Posts in the discussion forums directly or indirectly advertising horses, jobs, items or services for sale or wanted will be removed at the discretion of the moderators. Use of the private messaging feature or email addresses obtained through users’ profiles for unsolicited advertising is not permitted.

Company representatives may participate in discussions and answer questions about their products or services, or suggest their products on recent threads if they fulfill the criteria of a query. False "testimonials" provided by company affiliates posing as general consumers are not appropriate, and self-promotion of sales, ad campaigns, etc. through the discussion forums is not allowed.

Paid advertising is available on our classifieds site and through the purchase of banner ads. The tightly monitored Giveaways forum permits free listings of genuinely free horses and items available or wanted (on a limited basis). Items offered for trade are not allowed.

Advertising Policy Specifics
When in doubt of whether something you want to post constitutes advertising, please contact a moderator privately in advance for further clarification. Refer to the following points for general guidelines:

Horses – Only general discussion about the buying, leasing, selling and pricing of horses is permitted. If the post contains, or links to, the type of specific information typically found in a sales or wanted ad, and it’s related to a horse for sale, regardless of who’s selling it, it doesn’t belong in the discussion forums.

Stallions – Board members may ask for suggestions on breeding stallion recommendations. Stallion owners may reply to such queries by suggesting their own stallions, only if their horse fits the specific criteria of the original poster. Excessive promotion of a stallion by its owner or related parties is not permitted and will be addressed at the discretion of the moderators.

Services – Members may use the forums to ask for general recommendations of trainers, barns, shippers, farriers, etc., and other members may answer those requests by suggesting themselves or their company, if their services fulfill the specific criteria of the original post. Members may not solicit other members for business if it is not in response to a direct, genuine query.

Products – While members may ask for general opinions and suggestions on equipment, trailers, trucks, etc., they may not list the specific attributes for which they are in the market, as such posts serve as wanted ads.

Event Announcements – Members may post one notification of an upcoming event that may be of interest to fellow members, if the original poster does not benefit financially from the event. Such threads may not be “bumped” excessively. Premium members may post their own notices in the Event Announcements forum.

Charities/Rescues – Announcements for charitable or fundraising events can only be made for 501(c)(3) tax-exempt organizations. Special exceptions may be made, at the moderators’ discretion and direction, for board-related events or fundraising activities in extraordinary circumstances.

Occasional posts regarding horses available for adoption through IRS-registered horse rescue or placement programs are permitted in the appropriate forums, but these threads may be limited at the discretion of the moderators. Individuals may not advertise or make announcements for horses in need of rescue, placement or adoption unless the horse is available through a recognized rescue or placement agency or government-run entity or the thread fits the criteria for and is located in the Giveaways forum.

5. Do not post copyrighted photographs unless you have purchased that photo and have permission to do so.

6. Respect other members.
As members are often passionate about their beliefs and intentions can easily be misinterpreted in this type of environment, try to explore or resolve the inevitable disagreements that arise in the course of threads calmly and rationally.

If you see a post that you feel violates the rules of the board, please click the “alert” button (exclamation point inside of a triangle) in the bottom left corner of the post, which will alert ONLY the moderators to the post in question. They will then take whatever action, or no action, as deemed appropriate for the situation at their discretion. Do not air grievances regarding other posters or the moderators in the discussion forums.

Please be advised that adding another user to your “Ignore” list via your User Control Panel can be a useful tactic, which blocks posts and private messages by members whose commentary you’d rather avoid reading.

7. We have the right to reproduce statements made in the forums.
The Chronicle of the Horse may copy, quote, link to or otherwise reproduce posts, or portions of posts, in print or online for advertising or editorial purposes, if attributed to their original authors, and by posting in this forum, you hereby grant to The Chronicle of the Horse a perpetual, non-exclusive license under copyright and other rights, to do so.

8. We reserve the right to enforce and amend the rules.
The moderators may delete, edit, move or close any post or thread at any time, or refrain from doing any of the foregoing, in their discretion, and may suspend or revoke a user’s membership privileges at any time to maintain adherence to the rules and the general spirit of the forum. These rules may be amended at any time to address the current needs of the board.

Please see our full Terms of Service and Privacy Policy for more information.

Thanks for being a part of the COTH forums!

(Revised 1/26/16)
See more
See less

Speaking of Fencing...How do you???

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Speaking of Fencing...How do you???

    Who can give me some details on how to put up a 3 or 4 board fence?

    I know I must sound completely stupid, which I can be at times. But How do you figure out how to put up 3 or 4 board fences???

    What do we buy, ie length of boards, how much cement what brand or kind?

    What size nails?

    And how do you do that string thing???

    Thank you in advance fellow COTHers!!!

  • #2
    Let me start by saying we have HIRED a fence co. to put up all our fencing. So any comments I make are based on observation, not experience! We have about 3,500 linear feet of "no climb" with an oak top board & about 4,500 - 5,000 linear feet of 3 board (oak board, also). We do love traditional board fence (the oldest fencing has been up about 4 years now) & will be putting up thousands more feet as we can afford it.

    Our fencing contractor pounded the posts in - no cement, no holes, just pounded posts. The boards are 16 ft. long. They are nailed so they alternate which post they meet at - if the top & bottom boards meet at a post, the middle board crosses the post at the center & meets other board at the prior & next post. Then, at a post where the middle boards meet the top & bottom boards cross that post - kind of like doing bricks so the seams do not line up or stacking hay. The nails were probably 3 times as long as the thickness of the boards & looked almost like screws with very pronounced ridges. The nails were shot in with a big nail gun. They actually put up all the posts first. Of course, the boards don't meet the posts perfectly so they just lop off an inch or two to make them perfect. The tops of the posts are also lopped off at an angle to match the height of the top board.

    I don't know about the "string thing". Our contractor puts in all the posts & then puts up the boards & uses a short board to space the boards from each other so the spacing is consistent.

    They use a level on every single post to get it in really exactly vertical so I think that is an important place to start. I know in this area you can rent post pounders.

    If you are putting in very much fence, get some estimates. You may find you can hire it done almost as cheap as doing it yourself.


    • #3
      You really don't want to concrete wooden post, just helps them rot faster, unless you wrap them with roofing felt or such.
      Post should be treated for in ground use and easily last many years.

      Hiring it done, if you don't know what you are doing, is always the best to end up with the best fence, that won't keep needing repairs all along.

      For all thinging of board fences, consider adding a hot wire on the top.
      It teaches horses to respect fences and keeps those horse beavers from chewing that top board up in those neat wave patterns.


      • #4
        Depends on what string thing... first you do your corner posts, then you nail a carpenter's string to (say) the outside of the first post, and run it to the second post and pull it tight on a nail on the outside of that post... then make sure all your posts in between touch the string on THEIR outside, plus are level .... then, if you like the look, you kind of establish "break points" at low/high spots, set posts at those points matching your corner posts in height, and run a string to to top of each post, then make the intermediate posts touch the string at their tops (along with touching the outside string and being level)--or cut them to that height, which is usually easier but heaven forbid we do it the easy way..... (sorry, editorializing!) This way you get nice straight runs of fence instead of following the EXACT meander of the terrain, which, if you have small but frequent variations of terrain, looks horrifically messy to some types of people. Ask me how I know. :-)

        Posts: Figure one post every eight feet, plus one extra for each corner, add 2' to the desired height for your length.
        Rails: Divide length of fence by length of rails (say, 1600' divided by 16' rails = 100 rails) and then multiply by the number of rails you intend to run vertically (for a four rail fence, that is 400 rails).
        Concrete, if desired: Multiply number of posts by 2. Sakrete is the most commonly used around here, but just go to Home Depot and ask for bags of just-add-water concrete mix.
        Nails: 16 or 20 penny nails, ring shank. If you can get a nailgun, that is SOOOO much easier and you won't loosen your posts banging with a hammer.

        Third Charm Event Team


        • #5
          We bought a post driver for the tractor when we started putting in fence. One day out there drilling holes and tamping or concreting in posts will have to realizing the cost-benefit-time ratio definitely pans out in favor of the post driver.

          Figure out where you want to have the fenceline. We did one straight side, then a corner, then a side, then corner, and so on. All posts in and then starting on the boards. That said, I have rounded corners so maybe it's diff with square ones. I believe we used approx a 36' radius for the corners. Any smaller and it is hard to bend the boards. It's hard enough at that.

          My boards are on the INSIDE of the posts, for horse safety. SO, you pull a string very taut where you want the fenceline and then place the posts on the outside on the string, so they don't touch it, but almost skim it. Basically, the string goes on the side of the post that you want the boards on, b/c that is the side that needs to line up.

          The posts are 8' apart on center. The corner posts are 7'6" and are bigger posts b/c of the strain of the bent boards pushing out. 16' boards. We have 4 board, so divide the number of feet of fenceline by 8' for number of posts, then double it for number of boards. None of mine are concreted in unless we hit a rock and couldn't pound them in far enough.

          For putting up the boards we made a stick with a 2x4 that is 5' tall and marked the top of the stick with a sharpie against the post. I then calculated how far apart the boards would need to be to give a proper look and function. I think it worked out to be about 8" but not sure. Cut a piece of wood as your "spacer" in this length. Put up the top row of boards for a short section, then use your spacer to mark where the top of the next board should start, place the next row, repeat. Also, be sure to alternate which post the boards start on, mine are every other. So top board starts on post 1, 2nd board starts on post 2, 3rd board starts on post 1, 4th board starts on post 2.

          After placing all the boards, go back and cut off the tops of the posts at an angle. This makes it look neater and also serves to allow water to run off the top easier so the posts last longer. Posts are treated. I recommend Oak for the boards. We used Poplar the first time and the horses LOVE to eat it!!

          Not sure if I am explaining this properly, but ours came out beautifully and very professional looking. DEFINITELY be sure to carefully check the level in all directions on each and every post. V important. Time consuming but definitely saves money to do it yourself. The estimates I got a few years ago were $5/foot of 4 board fence installed.

          Good luck!! I have a few pics if they'd help.
          Destiny is not a matter of chance, it is a matter of choice; it is not a thing to be waited for, it is a thing to be achieved. - William Jennings Bryan



          • #6
            first, rob a bank...then make sure you dont waste your money on one inch lumber, and then find a source of 2" thick green oak by preference for boards, then let them season and shrink, meanwhile set your posts (pressure treated) then make sure you attach board on INSIDE of posts)...then when all is done be prepared to be painting or sealing or otherwise maintaining fence religiously while preventing horses from leaning on, eating, or otherwise destroying fence. Or, alternatively, lie down until urge for board fences goes away.


            • #7
              Originally posted by buschkn View Post
              The estimates I got a few years ago were $5/foot of 4 board fence installed.
              Double the $5/foot then subtract a dollar or two a foot if you're putting in a few thousand feet of it, then add $1 a foot to paint it. I have driven poles that were put in 20+ years ago and well maintained, they are still in great shape so when I bought the place and wanted to cross fence a couple months ago I hunted down the same fence guys to put in more.

              I could see putting in a couple hundred feet of it myself, but I'd never do a big job myself--if for no other reason than fencing is one of those things that is cheaper if you "only do it once." The most expensive jobs on a farm aren't the one you do once it's the ones you have to do again because the quality wasn't great the first time around.

              Personally, I prefer the boards nailed to the the outside of the post. Since I have perimeter fencing if I have a horse get in a tangle I rather the boards come loose sooner rather than later--a little like tying and leather halters that break.


              • #8
                We put in our fence, but I did have the fence holes dug. It was faster and cheaper than DIY, because the fence guy is close by, he had the right tool for the job, and he had the experience to do it quickly.
                If you are allergic to a thing, it is best not to put that thing in your mouth, particularly if the thing is cats. - Lemony Snicket


                • #9
                  What would be the reason for some boards warping after being put up? I visited a property that had a good many of the boardswarping even though the fencing was only about two years old.


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by stuge View Post
                    What would be the reason for some boards warping after being put up? I visited a property that had a good many of the boardswarping even though the fencing was only about two years old.
                    Most lumber is cut when it is still fairly green instead of after being kiln dried. Higher grades of lumber are less likely to warp.
                    If you are allergic to a thing, it is best not to put that thing in your mouth, particularly if the thing is cats. - Lemony Snicket


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by stuge View Post
                      What would be the reason for some boards warping after being put up? I visited a property that had a good many of the boardswarping even though the fencing was only about two years old.
                      Some of our fence boards are warped (not too many) & I actually like the look - it is "real" or "natural", whatever you want to say. If you don't want any warping, go with "plastic" (vinyl, whatever).

                      Originally posted by subk
                      . . . . Personally, I prefer the boards nailed to the the outside of the post. Since I have perimeter fencing if I have a horse get in a tangle I rather the boards come loose sooner rather than later--a little like tying and leather halters that break.
                      I'm with those that recommended boards on the inside of posts, for this reason: if just one end of the board comes off & the horse tries to run/squeeze between the post & the board with nails sticking out, the result is ugly. Also, it is harder for the horse to take the boards off if they are pushing against a board which is, in turn, pushing AGAINST a post. I just don't subscribe to the "breakaway" fence theory. Furthermore, I don't want horses getting out & running around loose with the possibilities of being hit by cars or other dangers.

                      As to price, we paid under $6 a running foot last summer for 3 board oak, including both materials & labor. Gate installation was $25 a gate since I supply the gates & slam latches.
                      Last edited by Evalee Hunter; Dec. 27, 2008, 05:25 PM. Reason: to put quote on colored background.


                      • #12
                        Post pounder

                        Just my 2 cents. Forget digging. Find a driver. Posts may not be quite so perfectly straight but they are tight and fast.

                        I bought my pounder back in the late 70's after it was used to build Interstate highway fence through Ga. It had seen a lot of posts and yet I've recently mounted it to my Bobcat and it works better than ever. Did a bit of fence last week with inexperienced help positioning the Bobcat and still averaged close to a post a minute.

                        I don't let anybaody else actually operate the pounder tho because #1 if you put ANY body part like a thumb on top of the post it's gone and #2 if you stand behind the post and the pounder is not correctly set the post can kick out and remove your front teeth. I've never had a problem but dumb helpers have!


                        • #13
                          I just finished a three board fence around my front yard, for dogs, not horses (lined the inside with no-climb).

                          I put my corner posts in by hand with a post-hole digger, then ran my string as described by buschkn, above, and drove a short stake every eight feet along the line. Then I got my neighbor to come over with his tractor and auger and dig my holes. I had to realign some of them but it was easier than doing them all from scratch.

                          I set 4x4 treated posts in about 30 lbs of Quikcrete each. After giving them a couple of days to settle, I attached eight foot treated 2x4's to the inside of the posts. Don't leave the posts too long before attaching the boards - they can start to lean, if they're in wet ground, or warp.

                          I used combo-drive screws to attach my boards instead of nails, for two reasons: 1) it's easier to do, if you have a power drill; and 2) it's easier to remove the board if you need to - just reverse the drill and unscrew it.
                          I'm not ignoring the rules. I'm interpreting the rules. Tamal, The Great British Baking Show


                          • #14
                            We have a few thousand feet of fence here thus far, and did the DIY. It looks better than most fence places b/c we were concerned about doing it perfectly, not just getting it in and getting paid. I def recommend the post driver. Digging the holes and setting posts is a huge PITA unless it's just a few. I mark with inverted paint cans along the string 8' on center, and only do one at a time. Like pound the post, measure, make mark, pound post, etc. It it hard to get them exactly where you want so if you mark several off at a time, you are liable to be off a fair amount by the end.

                            And I think using screws is not a bad idea, esp in the corners. That said, a nail gun saves a LOT of time and was well worth the $300 or so for a good one. Opportunity costs, like the post driver. Think of what your time is worth, and figure out ways to make it easier and more efficient for you to do.

                            Destiny is not a matter of chance, it is a matter of choice; it is not a thing to be waited for, it is a thing to be achieved. - William Jennings Bryan



                            • #15
                              i have proper post and rails the posts are 7ft and 3ft in the ground and the 3mtrs apart with 4x2 at 12 ft lenghts then bare wire on top and rabbit netting along the bottom sunken into the ground cost an arm and a leg but got fed up with patch up old post and bare wire fencing
                              as my lands rented - so have replaced the whole lot, and w ill start doing the in btween fencing getting to old to muck about worrying if the horse wil get out also the fence has stock wire attached its 4 rails across and off huge posts of 8x4 x 7ft long