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Kubota B7800 won't start: UPDATE first post

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  • Kubota B7800 won't start: UPDATE first post

    My Kubota died on me yesterday, in a neighbor's yard of course. Put it in neutral to move something out of her yard, and it cut off like the safety switch had kicked in. Now it won't restart. The dealer is an hour away, no trailers available to get it there, and no-one around here can figure it out. Looked online, and it seems there is a recurring problem with the safety switches. I've jiggled everything, made sure all was in neutral, checked connections, tried jump starting--nothing. Just hoping someone might have some ideas for me!

    UPDATE: Tractor is back home, working fine. It was the safety switch under the forward/reverse pedal, it had broken. No idea how, something must have gotten thrown up there just right. Five dollar part, much more for labor and hauling. I want to go to tractor school now.
    Last edited by Amazona13; Apr. 29, 2013, 07:23 PM. Reason: Update

  • #2
    Very likely a microswitch that has either failed or isn't "caught" by whatever it guards. With my smaller BX22, it's sometimes the PTO lever that needs to be engaged and then disengaged if the machine will not start. If you hear any "ticking" or other sound when you do turn the key, one of the microswitches is likely to blame.


    • #3
      Not familiar with that tractor, but if it has a switch under the seat that kills the engine when you get off/fall off, that is most likely the villain.

      Male a jumper wire and bypass it.


      • Original Poster

        Thanks, I suspect one of the safety or micro switches too. I just don't know enough about machines to know how to bypass them. When you say make a jumper wire, do you mean take any old wire and stick it in either side of the switch? I can try that. I've already disengaged both PTOs and tried to make sure the hydrostatic pedal is completely neutral. When I turn the key, I get one click and then nothing.

        Sure makes me feel like I wasted my money at a university when what I really needed were some practical skills!


        • #5
          rather than bypass a safety switch just use a meter to check the switch's condition, if it is at fault replace it.

          Do not bypass a safety, they are installed not as a source of bother but as a safety to keep you from harming yourself


          • #6
            One click?

            I doubt that it is a safety switch.

            I don't know how your tractor is wired, but my experience with JD is that if a safety switch is involved, you will not get any clicks.

            The reason being that the safety switch is located in the circuit in such a way that ZERO power is available to the tractor.

            I would suspect a bad battery or dirty battery terminals or posts.

            Checking the battery with a volt meter is not sufficient. If the battery is suspect, you need to clean the posts thoroughly by removing the cable clamps, cleaning the inside of the clamps as well as the posts.

            Then put the battery on a charger. When it is fully charged, put a load meter on it for the period required and see what the load meter tells you.

            A battery can test 13v on a voltmeter and fail the load test.

            If the battery checks out, then trace the safety switches one at a time.


            • #7
              A jumper is the quickest way to prove a fault.

              I doubt OP has the ability to determine whether a safety switch is faulty.

              My suggestion is meant to determine the problem. Whether one bypasses permanently or for only a few seconds is their option, not my business.

              I would say that when testing, one should be in the seat and not doing something dumb like standing in front of the rear wheel.


              • #8
                Originally posted by cssutton View Post
                A jumper is the quickest way to prove a fault.

                I doubt OP has the ability to determine whether a safety switch is faulty.

                My suggestion is meant to determine the problem. Whether one bypasses permanently or for only a few seconds is their option, not my business.

                I would say that when testing, one should be in the seat and not doing something dumb like standing in front of the rear wheel.
                This is exactly how I would deal with it and have. I have found most problems tend to be pretty simplistic. I always start from the basic and work up. My engineer friends always want to approach it from a complicated side. I/we are assuming that when you turn the key nothing happens, doesn’t turn over? Start with the safety/idiot switch, pull off the wires on either side of the switch, either jump them with a wire that has alligator clips on it, or tape them together if they do not have a plastic cover making sure there is good metal to metal contact. Or take a small finish nail or something of like that will fit in the ends and push together. If still nothing happens check the safety switch on the PTO and or make sure it is turned/pulled off. Maybe a bad switch that won’t turn off. Disconnect the wires to it and tape the ends. Check and make sure no wires fell off any where.
                I have by passed all of the seat safety switches on my mowers. They are a PIA, one always has to get off and on to move stuff. Having to restart the thing numerous times when mowing takes time and puts a lot of wear and tear on the starter and the battery.
                Most mower have hydrostatic transmissions these days so they don’t move when started out of the seat. And most have PTO safety switches that won’t allow the mower to start when engaged. If an operator can not tell when the mower is engaged by the sound they shouldn’t be operating it.
                If this doesn’t work get back. Or call the repair shop they may give you some basic advise.


                • #9
                  You may or may not get power to some circuits with the seat safety open. I can start our tractor with the seat safety open, but it will not move unless the safety is closed.

                  Our lawn tractor needs the parking brake engaged to start if the seat safety is open.

                  Jumping the seat safety is easy, the others not so easy depending on where they are.


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by gumtree View Post
                    Start with the safety/idiot switch, pull off the wires on either side of the switch
                    Just unplug the switch, do not pull out the wires. Get a small piece of wire and jump the pins in the plug to complete the circuit.


                    • #11
                      Always start with the battery and its cables.

                      Not doing so is akin to taking the engine apart and then finding out the fuel tank was empty.

                      And don't forget to check the battery ground wire attachment to the frame.

                      I had to completely redo the one on our lawn tractor. Vibration would work the factory attachment loose.


                      • Original Poster

                        Thank you, everyone, for all the good suggestions. I wouldn't permanently bypass the safety switches, I was just trying to get it started long enough to get it out of my neighbor's yard. Alas, nothing worked, and I had to resort to getting it winched up onto a tow truck. I didn't feel quite so dumb, though, since the repairman they sent out to get it couldn't start it either He tried the jump wire on the safety switches and even on the starter--got it to turn over a few times, but not start.

                        Certainly a learning experience for me. And again, thank you all for your help!


                        • #13
                          Had a fuel solenoid relay go bad on our JD, a learning experience for sure. Would crank, but not start. I now know far more about our tractor than I ever really intended. I won't even get into taking the 3 point apart...


                          • #14
                            This wouldn't work on my Cub. They are female ends with plastic covers. Simple to pull off insert a small finish nail to connect the 2 wires. I have never worked on Kubotas. I only buy what I would like to think are American brands. Hard to tell these days.


                            • #15
                              Let us know what the problem was. In case I ever get a Kubota.


                              • Original Poster

                                I sure will! It may take a week though, the shop is backlogged.


                                • #17
                                  Yes, please keep us informed! I have the same tractor and I want to know if there's a potential problem lurking. It sucks to have it happen but at least the service guy couldn't start it either. I always feel a little vindicated when none of the simple fixes they suggest to "the little lady" doesn't work out for them either.