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How to pass electric fencing underground to bypass a high traffic area?

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  • How to pass electric fencing underground to bypass a high traffic area?

    We have a paddock I'd like to reinforce with a strand of top board hot wire. BUT, there is a highly used gate between my box, and the rest of my electric fence and this paddock. In order to tie in, I need to bypass that gate.

    Is there a way to pass electric wire under ground and still keep the charge? I'm assuming there must be, but I'm not sure how to do it and I'm not having luck finding anything online. Help?

  • #2
    Under ground insulated cable does the trick.

    Comment


    • #3
      There is a PDF on how to install electrical fence and gates here.

      http://www.premier1supplies.com/

      I have bought stuff from these folks and find them first rate with products and service.
      Larry Garner
      Spalding Fly Predators

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      • #4
        In conduit of the PVC variety

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        • #5
          Always use the underground insulated cable. (as Trubandloki linked) You're dealing with thousands of volts. Ordinary house wire is only rated to 600 volts. AND place the insulated wire in a plastic pipe or conduit. It will need replacing and it's a lot easier to pull a new wire through conduit than dig up the old wire.
          Equus makus brokus but happy

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          • #6
            Other option is to go overhead. My barn owner has done that for one paddock. Two long 2x4s screwed to the gate posts, some insulators, run the wire through the insulators and up the first 2x4, over the top of the gate, down the other 2x4 and back to fence. It is hight enough to get the tractor in the field. Between the 5 foot post & 8 foot 2x4 with overlap she probably has 12 foot of clearance give or take.

            This probably won't work it you have hay trucks or taller vehicles coming in and out of the gate. But seems easier than digging and running conduit for many situations.
            Oh, well, clearly you're not thoroughly indoctrinated to COTH yet, because finger pointing and drawing conclusions are the cornerstones of this great online community. (Tidy Rabbit)

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            • #7
              Ours go overhead, with two plastic pipes on each side of the gate and the wire run up them on the outside, duct taped, across from one to the other and back down the other to the fence.

              Our gates are 16' wide and that has been up there, in our fierce winds, for decades and still holding fine.

              We drive pickups under them and have plenty of room to spare.

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              • #8
                Use this: http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/stor...-2-gauge-50-ft

                Run it through flexible plastic pipe or hose and seal the ends so water won't get into the pipe. Make the bend radius about a foot or so to permit easy pulling of the wire through it. When it needs to be replaced, it's easy to use the old wire to pull new into the pipe. Make sure it's buried deep enough so that traffic doesn't collapse the pipe.
                The inherent vice of Capitalism is the unequal sharing of blessings. The inherent virtue of Socialism is the equal sharing of miseries.
                Winston Churchill

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                • #9
                  Buy plastic conduit, and large radius turns from Lowes or Home Depot. It's cheap. Glue it together. Every underground wire I've buried for electric fence, that I didn't put in conduit, I've had to dig up, regardless of how much I paid for it, or how high quality it was supposed to be. Lightning will find a way to a rock or good ground, and blast a hole through the best wire insulation, and that's with multiple lightning arrestors of different types. A few bucks for conduit is some of the best money you can spend on an electric fence system. I've never had to replace one running through PVC conduit, and I put it in after I had to dig the wires up just so it would be easy to change the wire when needed.

                  Under a gate, bury it deeper than you think you need to.
                  www.HistoricHousePreservation.com

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                  • #10
                    Tom, you give excellent advise. No disrespect but IMO and experience a lot of it is over “engineered”. I run a pretty big farm for a living, a lot of horses and hay. I would rather spend my time with the horses which is what I am paid well for. But not well enough to hire and or pay for maintenance and or upgrades. I hear what you are saying but I have not found going to that kind of time and expense justifies the exercise.
                    I have use the following;
                    http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/stor...-2-gauge-50-ft
                    I take a chain saw with a worn out chain and “cut” a 6”+ “grove” drop the wire, kick the dirt back in and foot tamp. Or take a spade shovel and make the grove. Staple the wire up the post and connect back to the hot wire with connectors that can be had at any electric fence supplier. Only takes a few minutes. It can be done the way Bluey explained but again IMO a lot more work.
                    We get our fair share of heavy duty lighting storms. Last year a storm blew the crap out of a large Oak tree next to a paddock. The fence charger still worked. But it is well grounded.
                    As always to each their own.

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                    • #11
                      I have many gates and my wire goes overhead-------easy and no prob

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                      • #12
                        We probably have different dirt. I've tried cutting this dirt with a chainsaw chain, and even the trenching chain that Bailey's used to sell. Either got about 4 inches. I've used several different kinds of underground wire, including Stafix, and it's all blown out. The PVC conduit costs a couple of bucks from Lowes.

                        http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1
                        www.HistoricHousePreservation.com

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