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questions on running water, electric, what else? to the barn from house

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  • #21
    On the electrical side I will add that you should put a full panel in in the barn with a main cutoff at the barn. Also ground this panel. Some places don't require this by code but you will be glad you did.
    A person is smart. People are dumb, panicky dangerous animals and you know it.


    • #22
      How about runa hose with a beer tapper at the barn?


      • #23
        Originally posted by China Doll View Post
        How about runa hose with a beer tapper at the barn?
        then the next thing the horses would want would be a piano


        • #24
          Id run a six pair fiber optic cable or at least some CAT 5 for the future apps like cameras or wired smoke detectors. I say Fiber because its cost effective you'd have to add media converters to change it fro fiber to cat 5/6 but you'll have bandwidth for the future. I WENT wiith 4 inch underground pvc for wiring which sits on sand over the water runs.I went a little overboard but when the ground is open ya may as well take advantage.


          • #25
            When I ran the trench from our house to the barn 32 years ago, I put these path lights in tied into the barn lights. These and the main barn lights are on a 3-way switch circuit (switches in 2 locations) with one switch by the door we go out to go to the barn, and the other switch right where you first go into the barn. They have 25 watt regular bulbs in them, and they last 5 or 6 years before having to change the bulbs.

            I didn't want a transformer for lightning to blow out, and these have been trouble free. While the ditch was open, the wire for this circuit went in with everything else.



            • Original Poster

              Thanks for all of the great information. I'm making plans to get this project going as soon as the obstacle is removed. I'll be calling around for equipment today. I'm wondering, though, if three is a ride-on ditcher that goes deep enough. Our frost line is three feet and I was thinking of going four feet or four and one-half, but the ride on trenchers seem to only go three feet. If they don't go deep enough, I suppose I'd have to do it with a backhoe? Then, the best thing would be to remove the top layer of sod and set it aside. Remove the top soil and set it aside, then remove the other dirt (though this is may be a wettish clay soil all the way down at this location). It would be better to just use a trencher. I will also call the county about the required depth.

              I am unsure how the electric or the water is actually connected at the house side. I understand more about the barn side. I'll get an electrician and plumber on the house side I think, but I need to know more specifically where it will be connected. I have been working on the assumption that the water would be connected near the outside hydrant.

              I really appreciate the discussion in this thread. There is such good information here, and I have incorporated the ideas in my plan. Now, to get ready, and see when in the next couple of weeks I get this actually done! We'll go today and get a water pressure test meter. We didn't know about those. Since it's city water, I'll also talk to the water people if I need to. It has seemed to me that our water pressure isn't what it should be for a city water source, so this is a good time to look into that. I'll definitely drop the gas line idea. It's pretty exciting to get this going.

              I really appreiate all of the great information you all have shared. Thank!


              • #27
                If we needed to bury water line four feet deep here, I wouldn't put anything else in the ditch with it. Here we only have to go a foot deep, so if any kind or repair is made, we just dig it up by hand. I wouldn't dig 4 feet deep by hand.

                I'd put all the wiring and other stuff in a one foot deep trench, and the water line in a separate one 8 feet away from the shallow trench. That way a backhoe or mini-excavator can dig up the water line if needed without worrying about hitting anything else.

                If I had to make a 4' deep repair, I'd rent a mini-excavator. We rent one for a day every few years anyway, because we always come up with other stuff to do with one. This spring we are getting one to plant a bunch of trees.

                We have a gooseneck flatbed to haul hay, and the tractor on, so I just go pick up the mini-excavator on that. The rental place also rents trailers, but if you have a truck to pull a gooseneck horsetrailer, look in to getting a flatbed. Ours is about 15 years old, and has paid for itself many times over in those years.


                • Original Poster

                  I like the idea of having separate lines and will do that. I have taken this thread, printed it, read each post and considered every single suggestion in it. The information is extremely valuable to us in this project. We are getting into position to be ready to proceed as soon as the obstacle is removed which should be soon. It's pretty exciting as we were in the process of doing this all in a much more complicated maner.

                  I've also been looking at old threads here about no-freeze hydrants and those related issues.

                  We do have a good bumper pull 18' foot utility trailer that we use more than we ever expected. It's rated for at least 7500 pounds and we often pull it loaded to its maximum. We, also, are going to plant a lot of trees this spring - small trees, but a lot of them. Tom, as an aside, you told me what kind of pool table to get a couple of years ago. We followed your advice and got a very solid, 9 foot table and have been happy with that decision.