• Welcome to the Chronicle Forums.
    Please complete your profile. The forums and the rest of www.chronofhorse.com has single sign-in, so your log in information for one will automatically work for the other. Disclaimer: The opinions expressed here are the views of the individual and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of The Chronicle of the Horse.



Forum rules and no-advertising policy

As a participant on this forum, it is your responsibility to know and follow our rules. Please read this message in its entirety.

Board Rules

1. You’re responsible for what you say.
As outlined in Section 230 of the Communications Decency Act, The Chronicle of the Horse and its affiliates, as well Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd., the developers of vBulletin, are not legally responsible for statements made in the forums.

This is a public forum viewed by a wide spectrum of people, so please be mindful of what you say and who might be reading it—details of personal disputes are likely better handled privately. While posters are legally responsible for their statements, the moderators may in their discretion remove or edit posts that violate these rules. Users have the ability to modify or delete their own messages after posting, but administrators generally will not delete posts, threads or accounts upon request.

Outright inflammatory, vulgar, harassing, malicious or otherwise inappropriate statements and criminal charges unsubstantiated by a reputable news source or legal documentation will not be tolerated and will be dealt with at the discretion of the moderators.

2. Conversations in horse-related forums should be horse-related.
The forums are a wonderful source of information and support for members of the horse community. While it’s understandably tempting to share information or search for input on other topics upon which members might have a similar level of knowledge, members must maintain the focus on horses.

3. Keep conversations productive, on topic and civil.
Discussion and disagreement are inevitable and encouraged; personal insults, diatribes and sniping comments are unproductive and unacceptable. Whether a subject is light-hearted or serious, keep posts focused on the current topic and of general interest to other participants of that thread. Utilize the private message feature or personal email where appropriate to address side topics or personal issues not related to the topic at large.

4. No advertising in the discussion forums.
Posts in the discussion forums directly or indirectly advertising horses, jobs, items or services for sale or wanted will be removed at the discretion of the moderators. Use of the private messaging feature or email addresses obtained through users’ profiles for unsolicited advertising is not permitted.

Company representatives may participate in discussions and answer questions about their products or services, or suggest their products on recent threads if they fulfill the criteria of a query. False "testimonials" provided by company affiliates posing as general consumers are not appropriate, and self-promotion of sales, ad campaigns, etc. through the discussion forums is not allowed.

Paid advertising is available on our classifieds site and through the purchase of banner ads. The tightly monitored Giveaways forum permits free listings of genuinely free horses and items available or wanted (on a limited basis). Items offered for trade are not allowed.

Advertising Policy Specifics
When in doubt of whether something you want to post constitutes advertising, please contact a moderator privately in advance for further clarification. Refer to the following points for general guidelines:

Horses – Only general discussion about the buying, leasing, selling and pricing of horses is permitted. If the post contains, or links to, the type of specific information typically found in a sales or wanted ad, and it’s related to a horse for sale, regardless of who’s selling it, it doesn’t belong in the discussion forums.

Stallions – Board members may ask for suggestions on breeding stallion recommendations. Stallion owners may reply to such queries by suggesting their own stallions, only if their horse fits the specific criteria of the original poster. Excessive promotion of a stallion by its owner or related parties is not permitted and will be addressed at the discretion of the moderators.

Services – Members may use the forums to ask for general recommendations of trainers, barns, shippers, farriers, etc., and other members may answer those requests by suggesting themselves or their company, if their services fulfill the specific criteria of the original post. Members may not solicit other members for business if it is not in response to a direct, genuine query.

Products – While members may ask for general opinions and suggestions on equipment, trailers, trucks, etc., they may not list the specific attributes for which they are in the market, as such posts serve as wanted ads.

Event Announcements – Members may post one notification of an upcoming event that may be of interest to fellow members, if the original poster does not benefit financially from the event. Such threads may not be “bumped” excessively. Premium members may post their own notices in the Event Announcements forum.

Charities/Rescues – Announcements for charitable or fundraising events can only be made for 501(c)(3) tax-exempt organizations. Special exceptions may be made, at the moderators’ discretion and direction, for board-related events or fundraising activities in extraordinary circumstances.

Occasional posts regarding horses available for adoption through IRS-registered horse rescue or placement programs are permitted in the appropriate forums, but these threads may be limited at the discretion of the moderators. Individuals may not advertise or make announcements for horses in need of rescue, placement or adoption unless the horse is available through a recognized rescue or placement agency or government-run entity or the thread fits the criteria for and is located in the Giveaways forum.

5. Do not post copyrighted photographs unless you have purchased that photo and have permission to do so.

6. Respect other members.
As members are often passionate about their beliefs and intentions can easily be misinterpreted in this type of environment, try to explore or resolve the inevitable disagreements that arise in the course of threads calmly and rationally.

If you see a post that you feel violates the rules of the board, please click the “alert” button (exclamation point inside of a triangle) in the bottom left corner of the post, which will alert ONLY the moderators to the post in question. They will then take whatever action, or no action, as deemed appropriate for the situation at their discretion. Do not air grievances regarding other posters or the moderators in the discussion forums.

Please be advised that adding another user to your “Ignore” list via your User Control Panel can be a useful tactic, which blocks posts and private messages by members whose commentary you’d rather avoid reading.

7. We have the right to reproduce statements made in the forums.
The Chronicle of the Horse may copy, quote, link to or otherwise reproduce posts, or portions of posts, in print or online for advertising or editorial purposes, if attributed to their original authors, and by posting in this forum, you hereby grant to The Chronicle of the Horse a perpetual, non-exclusive license under copyright and other rights, to do so.

8. We reserve the right to enforce and amend the rules.
The moderators may delete, edit, move or close any post or thread at any time, or refrain from doing any of the foregoing, in their discretion, and may suspend or revoke a user’s membership privileges at any time to maintain adherence to the rules and the general spirit of the forum. These rules may be amended at any time to address the current needs of the board.

Please see our full Terms of Service and Privacy Policy for more information.

Thanks for being a part of the COTH forums!

(Revised 1/26/16)
See more
See less

the time is getting closer....

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • the time is getting closer....

    that I will be looking at moving to the farmette and full time horsekeeping.
    Its not going to be tomorrow, but its coming. There is a lot I have yet to finish, yet to plan and pay for.
    Two biggies: manure management and hay storage.

    My thoughts have always been, to figure proper spot for hay storage, and get that done. But my 'spot' thoughts on Manure management involve a dropped slope area that is level at driveway/hard pack, but then will drop off behind it into a slope. So....I've always thought 'here' would be a good additional parking/vehicle area, with a rear retaining wall? or form rebar concrete wall that we could 'walk thru' the building pad, (front to back) and dump from pad level into back area/divided composting area (with access on one side, graveled slope drive to bins for useage) both are big $ steps. Vehicle parking: just kinda needed as right now, no where to put my truck...no where to put my trailer. This property has one driveway in, a circle area in front of little barn, and not much else to be used until we build/prepare it....We COULD park them elsewhere, out in the open and most likely (and worse) under big trees.. not on hard packed ground, .just not ideal or something to count on easily for access back to, if bad weather.
    I know I would need to give MUCH more info before you guys can advise on what? which? to do first.... but...at the same time: my little barn now WILL have a small loft space (think : only 4 ft. high, but about 24 ft wide x 12 ft.) and I do have maybe a 12x12, 6ft high space in the adjoining workshop/feed room area.....BUT. No fire wall between, and lawn mowing, etc. stuff stored here for now. So, I've always figured I need a pallet space for only the 'weeks worth' of hay here, but not actual storage.

    Ask away, if you need property layout/specs.....but I'm trying to think: Ok...here's what you need to do next?
    "Indecision may or may not be my problem"
    --Jimmy Buffett

  • #2
    I will give you my lay out and you can glean ideas from there. We have 27 acres which was way too big for what we wanted, but it was the right price. We lease out 20+ or- a few acres for hay to a local cattle man.

    We have 5 horses and they all live in run in sheds. We also have a barn and store the hay in the loft, stalls are for emergency, vet checks, dentist etc and then they go back out. This is economical and easy for me. We compost some of the manure and believe it or not we spread the rest on the horse's fields. We've never had a parasite problem, since the horses get de-wormed a lot and we run stools. The manure keeps the fields fertilized and of course reduces the need for a compost area.

    As far as hay, it can get tricky if you have a bad hay year. We put up the Winter's hay then keep buying small amounts (hoarding is good.) I would love to have a shed for the hay so we don't have to put it up in the loft, but we don't. I have 3 horses that live in one field and they get round bales, which is again easy for me. I don't know how much room you have, but friends of ours bought a large used tractor trailer container for almost nothing and used that for storage. With a little creativity it can look nice and fit in.

    I have 2 "sacrifice paddocks" that hold horses so the fields don't get too over eaten and with a lot of rain we keep them off the main field. I never planned on having 5 horses, but my 2 ancient Arabs are showing no signs of going anywhere and last year we took in a Tb mare in need of a home

    I'll end here, I'm beginning to ramble
    RIP Kelly 1977-2007 "Wither thou goest, so shall I"

    "To tilt when you should withdraw is Knightly too."


    • #3

      How exciting ! It will all work out ! ENJOY !
      Zu Zu Bailey " IT'S A WONDERFUL LIFE ! "


      • #4
        I added some info on the pitchfork website that shows the type of composting that I do and gives some good links for background info on compost bin designs, etc.

        I'm thinking a dropped slope could lead to runoff issues, especially if near a water source. I would try to keep the compost boxes close enough for easy access but not so close to the barn that you have an insect issue from the fresher manure. If you decide to sell the compost, you need it to be easily accessible for pickup trucks and trailers.

        I have my hay storage in two different 12 X 20 Amish built sheds that were delivered to the property. It's worked out well for me even though one shed is not too close to the barn. I will bring weeks worth of hay into the barn when I am using the far storage shed.


        • #5
          The first barn we built here had a hay loft- 12'w by 30' long and stand up height. The loft was over two stalls and a narrow storage space. Stupid, stupid, stupid. You need access to high school boys to hoist hay up into a loft or have the mechanical ladder that rolls it up there...and then there is the pain of climbing up into the loft to feed hay or toss bales down. That space became a play room for our daughters.

          In the new barn we built the hay is at one end at ground level on pallets. My hay guy backs his trailer into the barn and unloads 300 bales of hay into a space that is probably 15' by 24'. Easy peasy. Easy access to unload hay will make or break delivery days. I will add that my hay guy does not bring me hay until it has been in his barn for 30+ days.

          I don't worry about fire walls. Our fire department is volunteer department and 9 miles away. If ANY building catches on fire it will burn to the ground. At best, they save the foundation of a house.


          • #6
            we have a 16x48 hay barn that's about 12' tall in the middle - holds about 520 square bales of hay, packed full. It's not located in the barn, but about thirty-forty feet away, so it's easily accessible even when it's raining or snowing or whatnot.

            We also have a round bale barn -we had a 20'wide x 14' tall x 40' long carport with sides put up. It's got a 20 year warranty and has been asbolutely GREAT the entire year we've had it - it's fabulous for holding lots of round bales, and we can stack them three high (or two high, if we have the huge bales). That one is located on the edge of our property out of the way, next to some trees.
            Teaching Horseback Riding Lessons: A Practical Training Manual for Instructors

            Stop Wasting Hay and Extend Consumption Time With Round Bale Hay Nets!!


            • #7
              I HATE lofts - like SLW says a true PITA to get hay up into & down from.
              Teenage boys willing to do the hot, dusty work are getting harder to come by & you will have dust sifting down into your barn.

              My year's worth (some 200 small square bales) gets stacked inside my barn on pallets and I rarely - make that close to never - lose a bale to mold.
              Hayguy drives his truck into my aisle and bales get unloaded/stacked from there.
              You want your aisle wide enough to accomodate a truck or equipment anyhow.

              SLW is also right about firewall safety - unless your insurance demands it you can do a lot to make sure a hayfire won't happen w/o that precaution.
              I've had my hayguy leave a loaded wagon in my indoor for a week before unloading if I felt the cutting was too wet.
              If you have the funds to add a separate hay storage building, go for it.
              But make it close enough so bringing a week's worth (at least) inside the barn is not a huge effort.
              *friend of bar.ka*RIP all my lovely boys, gone too soon:
              Steppin' Out 1988-2004
              Hey Vern! 1982-2009, Cash's Bay Threat 1994-2009
              Sam(Jaybee Altair) 1994-2015


              • Original Poster

                thanks all.
                I just don't know 'really' what is the proper place given this property ...for what. There isn't much additional room, and I am trying to look at all of it 8 ways till Sunday to know what is really best for what/where/when.
                "Indecision may or may not be my problem"
                --Jimmy Buffett


                • #9

                  Yayyyy!! It's exciting!! But you're overthinking it.
                  Manure pile is best managed out in the open where the elements can help it breakdown. It should be a good distance from your house and a workable distance from the barn. Don't want the smell & flies for your home! You need to be able to move it around with the tractor so forget about "bins" or walls or anything like that. I'd just make sure it's on good draining ground. No need for gravel or a pad. Breaks down faster ON DIRT. You can use your manure immediately too you know but letting it sit for 6-9 mos is ideal. The bottom of the pile is rich, dark, good stuff. I use it for potting soil but also put around flowers/bushes etc.
                  Don't worry about walls where the hay is. Lots of us store ours in our garages...I do now. Just go to roundbale feeding and you won't need squares which ARE labor intensive all around and more expensive. No need to sweat storage too.


                  • #10
                    ayrabz, do you have a tractor that can move roundbales? I don't. Some of us have to do squares.

                    It's hard to give specific advice without understanding your layout. Sometimes drainage, paddock location, etc. will reveal where the poo pile should go.
                    DIY Journey of Remodeling the Farmette: http://weownblackacre.blogspot.com/


                    • #11

                      Regarding your manure pile, my info from our local ag extension is to keep the manure pile covered so that moisture is limited. The manure pile will be slow to break down if it's not dry, or so I am told. Also, piling manure on dirt provides every opportunity to create a big hole in the ground when you are turning it with a tractor. Much better to have a concrete pad that can hold it. If there is any chance that the manure runoff could enter a waterway, you really need to look at containment systems. If you're looking at saving manure to use once broken down, think about bins that can hold 6 months of manure at a time. Fill one, cover it and turn it when you can to encourage breakdown, fill the next (and perhaps the next, depending on how much you can store and how much you 'manufacture'), then spread the first one and use that empty bin to refill. It's time consuming work, for sure. I have given up and now haul it to the local dump where I can dispose of it for free. We have so many horse farms around here there is no excess demand for aged manure, even if I went to the trouble to compost it. Finally, I have limited acreage for field turnout, and would not turn a horse out on a freshly manure-spread field for at least 6 weeks; and, I wouldn't spread manure on a field where horses are kept unless it was aged at least 6 months.


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by TrotTrotPumpkn View Post
                        ayrabz, do you have a tractor that can move roundbales? I don't. Some of us have to do squares.

                        It's hard to give specific advice without understanding your layout. Sometimes drainage, paddock location, etc. will reveal where the poo pile should go.
                        Also if you don't have a herd, small squares allow for more accurate feed-by-weight & less wasted hay.
                        Leaving a huge round bale out for my WB horse & Hackney Pony would result in a lot of uneaten, peed & pooped-upon hay.

                        My manure/compost pile is right outside one of the side sliding doors to my indoor.
                        In cold or nasty weather I can haul the wheelbarrow through the indoor right to the pile.
                        And when it's done composting, anyone who wants it can drive around to that side to load up a truck.
                        Once my veggie & flower gardens have died back in the Fall I will dump a wheelbarrow of fresh stall-cleanings onto them.
                        By spring the stuff composts and I am ready to plant.
                        *friend of bar.ka*RIP all my lovely boys, gone too soon:
                        Steppin' Out 1988-2004
                        Hey Vern! 1982-2009, Cash's Bay Threat 1994-2009
                        Sam(Jaybee Altair) 1994-2015


                        • #13
                          Want to add to Bathshebas excellent advice-

                          If you do turn the manure with a front end loader, be sure that the bucket is absolutely level when you turn the compost. Originally, I was digging down with the FEL and I accidently turned all my compost boxes into pits which ended up collecting water and becoming a sloppy mess.

                          I ended up having to scrape down through the muck, put in landscape fabric and then cover with recycled asphalt. This has helped tremendously but I am still careful not to dig too deep!

                          Also good advice on covering the compost. I haven't been doing that and I need to!
                          Last edited by mkevent; Feb. 14, 2013, 02:29 PM.


                          • #14
                            just saying...you don't NEED a tractor to move round bales.

                            My hubby and I moved them by hand (they roll nicely unless they've been sitting long enough to go flat on the bottom lol) all over our farm. Rollin rollin rollin....

                            We moved them by hand for a year and a half before we could afford to get a tractor.
                            Teaching Horseback Riding Lessons: A Practical Training Manual for Instructors

                            Stop Wasting Hay and Extend Consumption Time With Round Bale Hay Nets!!