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Ideas on what to use for staining/varnishing pine tongue and groove stalls??!!

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  • Ideas on what to use for staining/varnishing pine tongue and groove stalls??!!

    Another post, sorry if this has already been asked/answered but I am looking for suggestions on what to go with for staining/varnishing stalls.

    I have heard of using Tung Oil, Linseed Oil (mixed or not mixed with turpentine), Watco Danish Oil, and various varnishes. I would love to hear what people have used and what they love/can't stand about the various options.

    I definitely don't want anything that makes the wood too dark though. I also want something that maintains well and doesn't look terrible as soon as it gets a chip/ding, etc in it!

    Any input is greatly appreciated!

  • #2
    Spar Urethane - marine varnish if you will. You can get it in a satin finish so it won't show dings that badly
    ______________________________
    The CoTH CYA - please consult w/your veterinarian under any and all circumstances. - ET

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    • #3
      I agree with the spar varnish suggestion for this purpose...it's a more flexible finish so it will wear better and generally has UV additives (it's an exterior product) which will help reduce darkening of the wood, although no finish will completely abate that natural process.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by BCGirl View Post
        Another post, sorry if this has already been asked/answered but I am looking for suggestions on what to go with for staining/varnishing stalls.

        I have heard of using Tung Oil, Linseed Oil (mixed or not mixed with turpentine), Watco Danish Oil, and various varnishes. I would love to hear what people have used and what they love/can't stand about the various options.

        I definitely don't want anything that makes the wood too dark though. I also want something that maintains well and doesn't look terrible as soon as it gets a chip/ding, etc in it!

        Any input is greatly appreciated!
        Here's a picture of my stalls:

        http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ters/Stall.jpg

        I used a liquid stain mixed with a hot pepper (cayenne) spice to discourage chewing. I liked how it turned out and it's remained in good shape since installed in 2005.

        I had a chewer so added a lot of spice to the stain and restained. He hasn't touched it since.
        "Crazy is just another point of view" Sonia Dada

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        • Original Poster

          #5
          Thanks for all the input! So it sounds like Spar Urethane is the most popular choice and wears well. I think the original barn was done with some kind of oil so I may have to do a bit of experimenting to make sure it matches up well with the old wood!

          rosijet- What type of liquid stain did you use?

          Thanks for the ideas!

          Comment


          • #6
            Linseed oil is very nice in super dry climates like Colorado but will soften and get sticky in more humid climates like the SE. Even in Colorado, it needs to be reapplied every year or so and gets darker with age.

            My youth camp in Colorado used lindseed oil on wood fences, cabins (inside and out), benches, decks, log projects, etc. Wear clothing to throw in the trash, it's impossible to remove from clothing.

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            • Original Poster

              #7
              I have heard of people using linseed oil as well! One issue we have is that we have a mixture of boards we have replaced and old (late 60s) boards, so the colors don't quite match up. We have been debating going with a darker stain or water-based urethane, which I have been told is horse safe and won't chip or crack like the oil-based urethanes will- anyone have any experience with these?

              Sorry to keep asking all the questions, I just want to ensure that it looks good for years after we put it up and protects the wood!

              Thanks again for taking the time to offer suggestions and advice, I really appreciate it!

              Comment


              • #8
                Any film finish will "chip and crack" over time in exterior conditions (which a barn is) regardless if it's an oil-based product or a water borne product. Using a long-oil finish, such as a spar varnish, will generally give better results as these finishes are "softer" (relatively speaking) and expand and contract better seasonally.

                BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) is a non-film finish, but cannot be applied to wood that has been previously finished with any form of film finish that cures, unless the wood is sanded back completely to bare wood....a lot of work in most barns.

                As an aside, all finishes currently sold are "safe" once fully cured...for humans and for horses.

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