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Cheap, Easy Barn Siding

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  • Cheap, Easy Barn Siding

    Is that asking too much do you think? We are in the process of converting an interesting "structure" on our property into my barn. It currently is sided with some kind of plank looking sheeting. It's pretty ugly and of course like everything else, not done well. We'll either go over it with something else, or rip it down completely. What is inexpensive and easy to use for siding? I'd prefer wood over metal, since the barn will have in/out stalls.

  • #2
    Sounds like "barn siding", aka tf 1-11. That is your cheapest, easiest option. That said, I would go metal lined with plywood. Kinda like that triangle, cheap, fast and good. You get to pick 2.

    http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=barn%20siding&Ns=None&Nt pr=1&Ntpc=1&

    Is it this?



    • #3
      Board and Batten

      We just sided an 80-foot pole barn with hemlock board and batten that was cut for us by a small, local lumber yard. Very economic, easy to hang and beautiful.
      What's Horsie in the Twin Tiers? Find out here:

      Former user name: GilbertsCreeksideAcres


      • #4
        You could keep the current plank siding but create a faux board and batten by tacking furring strips or slats vertically at 12 inch intervals.
        They're not miniatures, they're concentrates.

        Born tongue-in-cheek and foot-in-mouth


        • #5
          Since the OP mentions in and out stalls, that makes methink the horses will have access to the siding. If that is the case, do NOT use board and batten or add faux bats. We foolishly did board and batten on my barn and where the horses could get to it, they just chewed the heck out of the bats. Those strips were just way too easy and tempting for them!

          When we added to the barn this summer, I had all the remaining bat pieces removed from the horse accessible side (and didn't add them to the new part). The siding we used is something called Breckinridge, I think, kind of this rough plywood stuff. Painted, it will be fine without those #%&! strips.

          The other thing with batten strips (which we still have on the other 3 sides, where the horses can't get to them), you have to watch out if doing sliding doors as they can catch the door, especially in wind prone areas like mine.


          • Original Poster

            Yes, that TF1-11 is what's is there now, and let me tell you, it ain't pretty. I think even if installed properly, it's still pretty ugly. Yes, horses would have access to the siding, which is why I figured no metal siding. That's interesting about the board and batten. I'd like to figure out how much shiplap siding would be. I think that is my number one choice if we can make it work. Any experience with it?


            • #7
              Agreed that horses will chew on the board and batten siding...the bats were chewed off in one winter, as high as the horses could reach.

              We used shiplap as siding on my brand new barn, and teh cheapest place to get it was Home Depot, and it was suprisingly good quality. They also delivered it for free.

              We actually got all the building materials from the metal roofing right down to the light fixtures and electrical wire from Home Depot for a 24x36' barn, delivered, for about $9,000. That included EVERYTHING needed to build the barn (except the concrete foundation).
              "If you think nobody cares about you, try missing a couple payments..."


              • #8
                One thing to consider, if the horses only access part (like my barn where only one wall is in the horse area) - you could do something attractive on the non-horse sides then just do something sturdy on the horse side. Kind of depends what part you look at, etc.

                I kind of wish we'd just done plywood sheets on the horse side instead of the Breckinridge as it would have been cheaper and since all is painted or stained, it wouldn't really look that different. When I found out how much the Breckinridge cost vs. similar plywood (2x) as we added on this year, I was wondering who the heck picked it...must have been my builder or the architect. Looks nice, but really wasn't worth the extra $.


                • #9
                  I have in and out stalls so the horses have access to one side of the barn. That side we put on 3/4" plywood that we painted to match the metal siding that is on the rest of the barn.


                  • #10
                    I have a run-in with board and batten siding. My horses haven't chewed anything off of it.
                    come what may

                    Rest in peace great mare, 1987-2013


                    • #11
                      I guess this is a geographical thing but barn in the south has steel siding and roofing...termites can't eat it! Sorry you'll have to copy and paste below to see what is used in my area. Lots of nice colors to choose from and its easy to put up and replace if there is ever any damage.



                      • #12
                        Find a local sawmill and check out the rough cut wood. I used poplar for my run-ins.

                        Example; http://www.byrdswholesale.com/roughcutwood.html
                        ... _. ._ .._. .._


                        • #13
                          I have metal siding on my run-in sheds in each field. I board TB babies/racehorses and they are tough on everything. But.. my run ins have held up great while my neighbors wooden ones are chewed to pieces. You may want to consider metal sheeting on your building - just be sure to add all the corners/trim pieces so there are no exposed edges/corners.

                          We redid every building on our farm (150yo wood) with metal siding/roofs. I won't have to fix anything in my lifetime.


                          • #14
                            We live about 4 miles from an eastern pine wood mill. They do make 1x12 shiplap in industrial grade pine. I bought a lift of it when I redid our barn into horse stalls as I used it for stall interiors. As a woodworker I was happy to work with a lift of "reject" shiplap which mostly involved an additional small shrinkage factor of boards with big knot holes, cracks, weebles in the milling line, etc.
                            Their pine had been dried so there wasn't significant shrinkage in the width, (which would have resulted in gaps between the boards). I did later build 4 10x10 shiplap barn doors with a local green pine mill shiplap and they did shrink quite a bit.
                            Mostly shiplap is applied vertically if left exposed, or horizontally if you are planning to cover the shiplap with siding such as wood shingle or clapboard.
                            If you have any desire to shingle or clapboard, you certainly could apply these products right over the T-111.
                            If you apply a vertical shiplap you would want to put some stain or bleaching oil on the pine to keep it preserved. It also requires possibly additional horizontal framing to provide nailers at approximately every two feet, from ground to eave to properly attach the shiplap.


                            • Original Poster

                              Thanks for all these suggestions. Lots to look at and think about. I like the idea of long lasting metal, but I just don't like the look. Plus, this structure already has a metal roof (which is leaking a couple spots by the way, how on earth do you repair that?!), so I'd really like to go for a wood look for siding. It's really tall, originally built to house tractor trailers, so floor to bottom of trusses is probably 20 feet. If we do shiplap, we'd do it vertically I think.

                              I wish I could post a picture of this monstrosity, it's pretty interesting. They also built around 2 shipping containers as walls on each side of this building, complete with an "office space" over one of them. It's got quite a look going for it all right!


                              • #16
                                Leaks in a metal roof are frequently just loose screws/nails. There is a rubber gasket at each attaching device that if the screw/nail becomes loose the rubber gasket might not stay seated so water can get into the hole.