• Welcome to the Chronicle Forums.
    Please complete your profile. The forums and the rest of www.chronofhorse.com has single sign-in, so your log in information for one will automatically work for the other. Disclaimer: The opinions expressed here are the views of the individual and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of The Chronicle of the Horse.

Announcement

Collapse
1 of 2 < >

Event Announcements now available FREE to all registered users

We just reconfigured the Event Announcements forum to be available as a free service for all registered forum users. See the thread stuck at the top of that forum for more information.
2 of 2 < >

Forum rules and no-advertising policy

As a participant on this forum, it is your responsibility to know and follow our rules. Please read this message in its entirety.

Board Rules

1. You’re responsible for what you say.
As outlined in Section 230 of the Communications Decency Act, The Chronicle of the Horse and its affiliates, as well Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd., the developers of vBulletin, are not legally responsible for statements made in the forums.

This is a public forum viewed by a wide spectrum of people, so please be mindful of what you say and who might be reading it—details of personal disputes are likely better handled privately. While posters are legally responsible for their statements, the moderators may in their discretion remove or edit posts that violate these rules. Users have the ability to modify or delete their own messages after posting, but administrators generally will not delete posts, threads or accounts upon request.

Outright inflammatory, vulgar, harassing, malicious or otherwise inappropriate statements and criminal charges unsubstantiated by a reputable news source or legal documentation will not be tolerated and will be dealt with at the discretion of the moderators.

2. Conversations in horse-related forums should be horse-related.
The forums are a wonderful source of information and support for members of the horse community. While it’s understandably tempting to share information or search for input on other topics upon which members might have a similar level of knowledge, members must maintain the focus on horses.

3. Keep conversations productive, on topic and civil.
Discussion and disagreement are inevitable and encouraged; personal insults, diatribes and sniping comments are unproductive and unacceptable. Whether a subject is light-hearted or serious, keep posts focused on the current topic and of general interest to other participants of that thread. Utilize the private message feature or personal email where appropriate to address side topics or personal issues not related to the topic at large.

4. No advertising in the discussion forums.
Posts in the discussion forums directly or indirectly advertising horses, jobs, items or services for sale or wanted will be removed at the discretion of the moderators. Use of the private messaging feature or email addresses obtained through users’ profiles for unsolicited advertising is not permitted.

Company representatives may participate in discussions and answer questions about their products or services, or suggest their products on recent threads if they fulfill the criteria of a query. False "testimonials" provided by company affiliates posing as general consumers are not appropriate, and self-promotion of sales, ad campaigns, etc. through the discussion forums is not allowed.

Paid advertising is available on our classifieds site and through the purchase of banner ads. The tightly monitored Giveaways forum permits free listings of genuinely free horses and items available or wanted (on a limited basis). Items offered for trade are not allowed.

Advertising Policy Specifics
When in doubt of whether something you want to post constitutes advertising, please contact a moderator privately in advance for further clarification. Refer to the following points for general guidelines:

Horses – Only general discussion about the buying, leasing, selling and pricing of horses is permitted. If the post contains, or links to, the type of specific information typically found in a sales or wanted ad, and it’s related to a horse for sale, regardless of who’s selling it, it doesn’t belong in the discussion forums.

Stallions – Board members may ask for suggestions on breeding stallion recommendations. Stallion owners may reply to such queries by suggesting their own stallions, only if their horse fits the specific criteria of the original poster. Excessive promotion of a stallion by its owner or related parties is not permitted and will be addressed at the discretion of the moderators.

Services – Members may use the forums to ask for general recommendations of trainers, barns, shippers, farriers, etc., and other members may answer those requests by suggesting themselves or their company, if their services fulfill the specific criteria of the original post. Members may not solicit other members for business if it is not in response to a direct, genuine query.

Products – While members may ask for general opinions and suggestions on equipment, trailers, trucks, etc., they may not list the specific attributes for which they are in the market, as such posts serve as wanted ads.

Event Announcements – Members may post one notification of an upcoming event that may be of interest to fellow members, if the original poster does not benefit financially from the event. Such threads may not be “bumped” excessively. Premium members may post their own notices in the Event Announcements forum.

Charities/Rescues – Announcements for charitable or fundraising events can only be made for 501(c)(3) tax-exempt organizations. Special exceptions may be made, at the moderators’ discretion and direction, for board-related events or fundraising activities in extraordinary circumstances.

Occasional posts regarding horses available for adoption through IRS-registered horse rescue or placement programs are permitted in the appropriate forums, but these threads may be limited at the discretion of the moderators. Individuals may not advertise or make announcements for horses in need of rescue, placement or adoption unless the horse is available through a recognized rescue or placement agency or government-run entity or the thread fits the criteria for and is located in the Giveaways forum.

5. Do not post copyrighted photographs unless you have purchased that photo and have permission to do so.

6. Respect other members.
As members are often passionate about their beliefs and intentions can easily be misinterpreted in this type of environment, try to explore or resolve the inevitable disagreements that arise in the course of threads calmly and rationally.

If you see a post that you feel violates the rules of the board, please click the “alert” button (exclamation point inside of a triangle) in the bottom left corner of the post, which will alert ONLY the moderators to the post in question. They will then take whatever action, or no action, as deemed appropriate for the situation at their discretion. Do not air grievances regarding other posters or the moderators in the discussion forums.

Please be advised that adding another user to your “Ignore” list via your User Control Panel can be a useful tactic, which blocks posts and private messages by members whose commentary you’d rather avoid reading.

7. We have the right to reproduce statements made in the forums.
The Chronicle of the Horse may copy, quote, link to or otherwise reproduce posts, or portions of posts, in print or online for advertising or editorial purposes, if attributed to their original authors, and by posting in this forum, you hereby grant to The Chronicle of the Horse a perpetual, non-exclusive license under copyright and other rights, to do so.

8. We reserve the right to enforce and amend the rules.
The moderators may delete, edit, move or close any post or thread at any time, or refrain from doing any of the foregoing, in their discretion, and may suspend or revoke a user’s membership privileges at any time to maintain adherence to the rules and the general spirit of the forum. These rules may be amended at any time to address the current needs of the board.

Please see our full Terms of Service and Privacy Policy for more information.

Thanks for being a part of the COTH forums!

(Revised 1/26/16)
See more
See less

Brush Hogging

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Brush Hogging

    Anyone have any suggestions for brush hogging overgrown fields? As in, how to make it become grass turnout? I'm assuming that 90% of the growth is not edible, so if I want to put horses on the property, what comes after the brush hog? Is it safe to put them out on the cut brush? Should I let it decompose first or something? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
    What I lack in preparedness I make up for in enthusiasm

  • #2
    It depends on how overgrown it is and what it was overgrown with.

    Once you brush hog, I'd look to see if there are any stobs that were left by cutting the brush. These stobs can cause a SEVERE injury.

    If the area is mainly weeds, not so much brush, you could use it sooner than later. Spraying with a broadleaf weed herbicide will get rid of the competition of resources for the grasses and allow them to grow quicker.

    If you are patient and diligent, you can mow regularly and many weeds with go away and more grasses will grow. This takes a long time though.

    Comment


    • #3
      If you're just hogging down overgrown grass and weeds, throw the horses out after a day or two. They'll be interested in the new stuff closer to the ground and won't worry about the dry crap that you just cut. Then just brushhog more frequently to get it back to a managable pasture like jawa mentioned above.
      "If you think nobody cares about you, try missing a couple payments..."

      Comment


      • #4
        Just make sure it's bush hogged so that it is no shorter than about 6" tall. If it's any shorter, the roots of the grasses (good grasses) won't be cool enough to grow properly and can cause some issues.

        I would first assess my pasture and figure out what all is there (if you can ) There may be some good grass under there.

        Do you know the last time the pasture area has been Limed?

        The two lines of offense (or defense) for a good pasture is proper mowing/bush-hogging and Liming the pasture. After that you can tackle any other issues
        If wishes were horses then beggars would ride...
        DLA: Draft Lovers Anonymous
        Originally posted by talkofthetown
        As in, the majikal butterfly-fahting gypsy vanners.

        Comment

        • Original Poster

          #5
          The pasture hasn't been touched in about 2 years. I'm told it used to be mostly grass, with some weeds of course. When should I lime it? If I mow it this weekend can I put the horses on it next week and save the liming for later? I feel like maybe the lime won't get down to the soil if its on top of all my clippings.
          What I lack in preparedness I make up for in enthusiasm

          Comment


          • #6
            I finish mowed our 7 acre jump field for three seasons bi-weekly and it has gotten rid of the goldenrod, Queen Anne's Lace and other inedibles. I was able to hay the field this year for over 200 bales.
            We also have been able to obtain a paper recycle byproduct around here called SPF(short paper fibre) which has the lime equivalency of 1/5 actual lime but costs $2 a ton.
            Hydrophile has it right..

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Anteup View Post
              Anyone have any suggestions for brush hogging overgrown fields? As in, how to make it become grass turnout? I'm assuming that 90% of the growth is not edible, so if I want to put horses on the property, what comes after the brush hog? Is it safe to put them out on the cut brush? Should I let it decompose first or something? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
              There some omissions that are important.

              Where are you? Are you in a northern climate? In the middle of a draught?

              How much pasture?

              Do you plan to purchase the tractor, bush hog, sprayer....or do you have a neighbor that will do the work?

              What kind of brush? Pine is one thing, easy to get rid of with a bush hog.

              Sweet gum black gun, scrub oak much harder.

              Copel (Tree of Heaven), locust, wild prune......very very difficult.

              Like everything else on a farm, there are several ways to deal with it.


              as for bush hogging stobbing your horses' feet, it is possible but not likely. That type of injury is usually associated with trails cut and maintained with a bush axe. Workers when they get tired and hot instead of swinging the axe horizontally, swing down at a 45 degree cut which leaves a very sharp point. Even so in 71 years I have had it in my barn only one time and for many years we had 5 full time field hunters that went twice a week.

              In contrast, we had many gravels, stone bruises, etc.

              If you have a lot of small trees, I would be more concerned about stobs striking the fetlocks.

              Bush hogs do not leave a sharp stob but rather a blunt rough cut which is more likely to bruise than pierce.

              So what I would suggest rather than cutting at a 6" height is that you bush hog as close to the ground as you can.

              But only for the first time. After that, raise the cut level to 6".

              One trip over cutting close will do little harm to your grass providing you are not in the middle of a drought.

              If it is dry, I would wait until you get a really good rain and then as soon as the grass and the top of the ground is dry enough that the tractor will not be dangerous, cut it close.

              But do not cut it short the second time or thereafter.

              If the trees are the hard to get rid of stuff, like sweet gum, locust, copel, etc., you can mow it every week and they will come back. For those you must spray.

              A flip of a coin as to whether you spray before or after you mow. If you mow first, you will have to wait until they get enough leaf on them for the spray to work...12 to 24" probably.

              If you spray first, you will have to wait a couple of weeks or maybe a third week for the spray to work.

              Crossbow is a good one that will kill brush but not grass.

              I would be inclined to spray first unless they are tall enough to interfere with the booms on the sprayer.


              That should be "wild plum".


              And if you are in the middle of a drought you might possibly be in the middle of a draught.
              Last edited by cssutton; Jul. 26, 2012, 03:05 PM.

              Comment


              • #8
                In most places, 2 years of overgrowth isn't that bad. Multiflora roses and the like will leave stubble, and I recommend not getting lawn-darted into it.

                Personally, I'd brush hog the heck out of it to start. Go one direction, then come back a week or two later and go the other. That's because the tractor tires tend to knock some weeds down so they don't get mowed, and you want to buzz up the cuttings nice and fine.

                Walk around after the first mowing and take a look. If it doesn't seem too bad, go ahead and put horses on it. Just realize having them out there picking at the grass trying to grow is going to make it a bit harder for forage to establish.

                People here apply lime in the late winter. Talk to your local extension agent or feed mill for info on who does it and when.
                ---------------------------

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by WildBlue View Post
                  People here apply lime in the late winter. Talk to your local extension agent or feed mill for info on who does it and when.
                  There is a great company in our area called "Gourmet Grazing," and, among other things, their primary service is pasture restoration. This is what they recommended to me. I already figured on mowing and liming anyways, but this is their exact "in the meantime" prescription:


                  1. Mowing is very important. If you're grazing horses, they won't eat tall grass. Mowing cuts the seed heads off the weeds. Height of 4" minimum, to keep ground and grass roots shaded from the heat. I prefer 6-8" tall.

                  2. If you know the pastures have not had lime applied in the last 1-2 years, I'm certain they will need lime. That's the nature of the soil in this area. It can be applied anytime. I'd suggest 1-2 tons per acre, applied via spreader truck. Charge for lime in our area is $45 per ton + labor. Lime is the king of all nutrients. It kicks all the other essential minerals into action. Note: one ton of bagged lime is 50 bags. About three times more expensive than bulk lime. Also a back killer to open and spread enough bags to do any good.

                  3. Next best time to spray weeds will be this fall.


                  Items 1 & 2, plus not overgrazing your pastures, should be first on your list.
                  If wishes were horses then beggars would ride...
                  DLA: Draft Lovers Anonymous
                  Originally posted by talkofthetown
                  As in, the majikal butterfly-fahting gypsy vanners.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Anteup View Post
                    When should I lime it?
                    Before you treat the soil with anything have it tested so you know what the soil actually needs.

                    Comment

                    • Original Poster

                      #11
                      This is a great start thanks everyone!
                      What I lack in preparedness I make up for in enthusiasm

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Liming is generally done in October/November(in Texas) after haying/mowing season. Soil testing is important, should be done annually--at the same time every year--late fall or early spring.


                        Where are you located?
                        You have people giving you helpful advice but is limited because your location is unknown!
                        What is done in the south when you are in a drought is different than what is done in a normal rainfall year. And the north is different than the south.

                        Please read the threads and answer the pertinenent questions. instead of skipping over them and answering with a nondescript "thank you".

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          My fields had not been used in 5-6 years and I have mine (almost) under control from brush hogging and weed spraying (I use Crossbow which is ok to graze on). Had my horses out there within a few week and I continue to work around them to clear some of the harder areas. If you keep mowing the grass will come!
                          I have horse to sell to you. Horse good for riding. Can pull cart. Horse good size. Eats carrots and apples. Likes attention. Move head to music. No like opera! You like you buy.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            And, be aware of your turtles, if you have them, and bush-hog during the heat of the afternoon.
                            You do need to mow, though, to keep weeds at bay.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I just mentioned this in another thread, but have you considered goats?

                              In many cases, they're cheaper than mechanical weeding, spraying, or prescribed fire. It can work pretty darn well, too.

                              http://www.woolgrowers.org/tg_pdfs/C...ed_Grazing.pdf
                              My website

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X