• Welcome to the Chronicle Forums.
    Please complete your profile. The forums and the rest of www.chronofhorse.com has single sign-in, so your log in information for one will automatically work for the other. Disclaimer: The opinions expressed here are the views of the individual and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of The Chronicle of the Horse.

Announcement

Collapse

Forum rules and no-advertising policy

As a participant on this forum, it is your responsibility to know and follow our rules. Please read this message in its entirety.

Board Rules

1. You’re responsible for what you say.
As outlined in Section 230 of the Communications Decency Act, The Chronicle of the Horse and its affiliates, as well Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd., the developers of vBulletin, are not legally responsible for statements made in the forums.

This is a public forum viewed by a wide spectrum of people, so please be mindful of what you say and who might be reading it—details of personal disputes are likely better handled privately. While posters are legally responsible for their statements, the moderators may in their discretion remove or edit posts that violate these rules. Users have the ability to modify or delete their own messages after posting, but administrators generally will not delete posts, threads or accounts upon request.

Outright inflammatory, vulgar, harassing, malicious or otherwise inappropriate statements and criminal charges unsubstantiated by a reputable news source or legal documentation will not be tolerated and will be dealt with at the discretion of the moderators.

2. Conversations in horse-related forums should be horse-related.
The forums are a wonderful source of information and support for members of the horse community. While it’s understandably tempting to share information or search for input on other topics upon which members might have a similar level of knowledge, members must maintain the focus on horses.

3. Keep conversations productive, on topic and civil.
Discussion and disagreement are inevitable and encouraged; personal insults, diatribes and sniping comments are unproductive and unacceptable. Whether a subject is light-hearted or serious, keep posts focused on the current topic and of general interest to other participants of that thread. Utilize the private message feature or personal email where appropriate to address side topics or personal issues not related to the topic at large.

4. No advertising in the discussion forums.
Posts in the discussion forums directly or indirectly advertising horses, jobs, items or services for sale or wanted will be removed at the discretion of the moderators. Use of the private messaging feature or email addresses obtained through users’ profiles for unsolicited advertising is not permitted.

Company representatives may participate in discussions and answer questions about their products or services, or suggest their products on recent threads if they fulfill the criteria of a query. False "testimonials" provided by company affiliates posing as general consumers are not appropriate, and self-promotion of sales, ad campaigns, etc. through the discussion forums is not allowed.

Paid advertising is available on our classifieds site and through the purchase of banner ads. The tightly monitored Giveaways forum permits free listings of genuinely free horses and items available or wanted (on a limited basis). Items offered for trade are not allowed.

Advertising Policy Specifics
When in doubt of whether something you want to post constitutes advertising, please contact a moderator privately in advance for further clarification. Refer to the following points for general guidelines:

Horses – Only general discussion about the buying, leasing, selling and pricing of horses is permitted. If the post contains, or links to, the type of specific information typically found in a sales or wanted ad, and it’s related to a horse for sale, regardless of who’s selling it, it doesn’t belong in the discussion forums.

Stallions – Board members may ask for suggestions on breeding stallion recommendations. Stallion owners may reply to such queries by suggesting their own stallions, only if their horse fits the specific criteria of the original poster. Excessive promotion of a stallion by its owner or related parties is not permitted and will be addressed at the discretion of the moderators.

Services – Members may use the forums to ask for general recommendations of trainers, barns, shippers, farriers, etc., and other members may answer those requests by suggesting themselves or their company, if their services fulfill the specific criteria of the original post. Members may not solicit other members for business if it is not in response to a direct, genuine query.

Products – While members may ask for general opinions and suggestions on equipment, trailers, trucks, etc., they may not list the specific attributes for which they are in the market, as such posts serve as wanted ads.

Event Announcements – Members may post one notification of an upcoming event that may be of interest to fellow members, if the original poster does not benefit financially from the event. Such threads may not be “bumped” excessively. Premium members may post their own notices in the Event Announcements forum.

Charities/Rescues – Announcements for charitable or fundraising events can only be made for 501(c)(3) tax-exempt organizations. Special exceptions may be made, at the moderators’ discretion and direction, for board-related events or fundraising activities in extraordinary circumstances.

Occasional posts regarding horses available for adoption through IRS-registered horse rescue or placement programs are permitted in the appropriate forums, but these threads may be limited at the discretion of the moderators. Individuals may not advertise or make announcements for horses in need of rescue, placement or adoption unless the horse is available through a recognized rescue or placement agency or government-run entity or the thread fits the criteria for and is located in the Giveaways forum.

5. Do not post copyrighted photographs unless you have purchased that photo and have permission to do so.

6. Respect other members.
As members are often passionate about their beliefs and intentions can easily be misinterpreted in this type of environment, try to explore or resolve the inevitable disagreements that arise in the course of threads calmly and rationally.

If you see a post that you feel violates the rules of the board, please click the “alert” button (exclamation point inside of a triangle) in the bottom left corner of the post, which will alert ONLY the moderators to the post in question. They will then take whatever action, or no action, as deemed appropriate for the situation at their discretion. Do not air grievances regarding other posters or the moderators in the discussion forums.

Please be advised that adding another user to your “Ignore” list via your User Control Panel can be a useful tactic, which blocks posts and private messages by members whose commentary you’d rather avoid reading.

7. We have the right to reproduce statements made in the forums.
The Chronicle of the Horse may copy, quote, link to or otherwise reproduce posts, or portions of posts, in print or online for advertising or editorial purposes, if attributed to their original authors, and by posting in this forum, you hereby grant to The Chronicle of the Horse a perpetual, non-exclusive license under copyright and other rights, to do so.

8. We reserve the right to enforce and amend the rules.
The moderators may delete, edit, move or close any post or thread at any time, or refrain from doing any of the foregoing, in their discretion, and may suspend or revoke a user’s membership privileges at any time to maintain adherence to the rules and the general spirit of the forum. These rules may be amended at any time to address the current needs of the board.

Please see our full Terms of Service and Privacy Policy for more information.

Thanks for being a part of the COTH forums!

(Revised 1/26/16)
See more
See less

tomatoes started from seeds

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • tomatoes started from seeds

    I started some tomatoes of different varieties from seed this year again, and yet again they are looking weedy and just not thriving. It's like they grow straight up and not out, and in the probably 6 weeks since I planted them they don't have a single flower. I did fertilize them with manure.

    Now I also have some I bought as plants that of course were farther along, and they have had flowers for maybe 3 weeks to a month, and already have at least 10 tomatoes. They were purchased a week or so after the seeds were planted.

    I water them all daily when it doesn't rain, and none of them appear wilted. It hasn't been that hot here yet, so I don't think the heat is to blame, and they do get a bit of shade from the very edge of a tree part of the day (tomatoes don't do full sun here once it really gets hot).

    What gives?

    The only difference is when I did the seeds I put the manure on top, while with the plants I lined the trench with manure. All were planted in looser soil over a recently-laid water line.

  • #2
    You need to start them in the house in February.
    McDowell Racing Stables

    Home Away From Home

    Comment


    • #3
      where did you get the seeds from? Packaged or saved from plants?

      The new hybrids do not grow well from seed saved back.... in our experience.

      Now, the cherry tomatoes we fed to the Minis one year, when the resulting manure was put in the rose bed, did sprout and produce well.

      Comment


      • #4
        Here in Fl, we start our seeds indoors in late December or early January. I got a late start this year (didn't plant till March) and they're nowhere near as developed as the few I bought as seedlings (couldn't find seeds in time for that variety but did find seedlings)

        I usually plant in Dec/Jan, put seedlings outside in late March and get first blooms in April/May, with plants over my head by mid-summer. My late March plants look pathetic to me, but I need to remember that they're about 3 months behind.
        The rebel in the grey shirt

        Comment


        • #5
          I'm in PA so YMMV, but I raise a garden every year from seed. This is only the second time in 15 years that I have no vegetables.

          1. Start seeds on Valentine's day. You need some kind of cup, some seed starting soil, a marker, and warm water. I set my little cups (breakstone single serve cottage cheese cups) in muffin tins to catch water and carry them around. Mark your cups, mix your seed starter soil and water in a bucket, stick the soil into the cups, make a little finger stick and drop your seed.

          2. Grow bulbs are essential and they must be kept right above the seedling. If they are too far away the seedlings get leggy (thin and week). So the grow bulbs are just edged up as the seedlings grow.

          3. Don't transplant til your last frost day. Mine is about mother's day. When you're ready to transplant you must harden off your seedlings. Take them outside and put them in shade for a couple of days. If you take them right out into the sunlight they will burn up and die.

          4. I don't use manure. I also container garden -it keeps the soil from getting compacted and is easier to manage. Transplant in the evening and water in.

          5. I companion plant nasturtium and marigolds (also started from seed) to control bugs.

          Keep them happy and moist and you'll have produce. I love starting seeds because it tells me that spring is coming.

          Paula
          He is total garbage! Quick! Hide him on my trailer (Petstorejunkie).

          Comment


          • #6
            When you planted your seedlings (the ones you started) did you just stick them in the ground?

            The recommended way to plant tomato seedlings is to bury them up to the top branch, leaving very little stem above ground.
            Or to lay them in a trench and let just the tops stick out.
            Tomatoes are vining plants, so this gives them a chance to get bushy.

            You can still do the trench method for your plants now.

            Also:
            I swear by Job's tomato fertilizer spikes and water once a week with Miracle-Gro.
            *friend of bar.ka*RIP all my lovely boys, gone too soon:
            Steppin' Out 1988-2004
            Hey Vern! 1982-2009, Cash's Bay Threat 1994-2009
            Sam(Jaybee Altair) 1994-2015

            Comment

            • Original Poster

              #7
              I'm in LA, so we rarely get this thing called "frost"

              I just started them straight in the ground once it was warm. Seeds right into the ground, watered well. They did sprout almost instantly. I thinned them as they came up, so they are 6" to 12" apart now. Should I dig them up and plant them a bit deeper now? Maybe on top of some manure?

              I got a late start, or I would have started them in leftover smartpaks. But by the time I planted the seeds, it was well into the 80's.

              These are seeds I bought. I think there is one of the early maturing varieties, and some cherry and plum tomatoes. Nothing too fancy.

              I am on red clay. It has a bit of sand in it, but pretty much just clay.

              Comment


              • #8
                I wouldn't dig them up...my volunteer tomatoes are always the hardiest. Maybe some manure tea and lime (for the calcium).

                As for seed starting, I got a late start this year. I start them 6 weeks before the last frost date, keep changing up to larger pots. My garden is the lasagna method raised bed and I have a drip hose on the bed. I only water once or twice a week, but I water deeply. I didn't get them out until the first week of June because I was out of town, but they're all coming along nicely. Flowers on all and tomatoes on some of them.

                I plant them very deeply too, in the bed and each time I re-pot.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I've always started tomato seeds indoors - never just stuck them into the ground, so I don't know if that's your problem. I do know that tomatoes do not like hard compacted ground, & you can't get much more compacted than clay & sand mixed together. That pretty much equals cement. And as far as the manure - I'm hoping beyond hope that you mean very well aged &/or composted manure. Because if you're just dumping road apples in with your tomatoes, that's serious root-burning in the making.

                  Next time around you need to work in a LOT of organic matter into your veggie garden. Manure is great, but ONLY if it's been aged for 6 months to a year until it resembles nice crumbly dark earth. You shouldn't be able to tell in any way - smell or otherwise - that it was ever manure.

                  Comment

                  • Original Poster

                    #10
                    This clay was very loose as I had just buried a water line where I planted the tomatoes. I've always used fresh manure with no ill effects too. The stuff I put around the seedlings was more aged than the stuff I planted under the plants I bought. The ones doing the best were planted over very very fresh manure.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Are they the same type of tomatoes? For example, Striped Roman tomatoes have very long, thin and pointy leaves and don't really bush out. And, some varieties will take longer to mature.

                      I think amending with manure is an excellent idea if you are on clay. Also, tomatoes like calcium, sprinkle egg shells, bone meal and even powdered milk in the soil.

                      Good luck and enjoy your garden.
                      I LOVE my Chickens!

                      Comment

                      • Original Poster

                        #12
                        I might try to dig a few of them up, very wide of course so as to do the least damage to the roots, and plant them on some manure. Can't hurt, as some of them look downright stunted. And none of them have even a single flower.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I wouldn't dig them up, but you never know. If they are really stunted, you might want to try a high nitrogen fertilizer to give them a kick start.

                          I start mine in the house in January in seed starter under lights. Once they have 2 sets of true leaves, I transplant into larger pots burying them up to the first set of true leaves (not the little thingees they have when first sprouted). Then I feed them every other week with a diluted liquid fertilizers. When the night temps stay above 50, out to the garden they go, again, buried up to the first set of leaves (the baby leaves have fallen off by now).

                          This year, I was not thinking and mixed a bunch of worm casings in with my seed starter. Wouldn't have been a bad idea except for all the old tomato seeds that were in it. I had so many seeds sprout that it was hard to tell which were volunteers and which were the intended varieties!

                          My roma style tomatoes are starting to ripen and I've already had a green zebra and a black krim. Love love love tomatoes!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Any chance you feed your horses hay that's been sprayed with Graze On (sp?)? If that's the case, it will stunt your tomato plants, it's a broad leaf weed killer and as far as it's concerned your tomatoes are weeds...
                            * trying hard to be the person that my horses think i am

                            Comment

                            • Original Poster

                              #15
                              They get alfalfa cubes, Manna Pro brand. Hay is very likely not sprayed with anything that kills weeds given that it does have some weeds. Around here you take what you can get after last year's drought. I would think if that were the case it would kill the ones I bought as plants though. Those are doing really well.

                              Comment


                              • #16
                                Originally posted by Hampton Bay View Post
                                I'm in LA, so we rarely get this thing called "frost"

                                I just started them straight in the ground once it was warm. Seeds right into the ground, watered well. They did sprout almost instantly. I thinned them as they came up, so they are 6" to 12" apart now. Should I dig them up and plant them a bit deeper now? Maybe on top of some manure?
                                The method I know is to take the seedling when it is at least 6" tall, pinch off all the leaves except the very top ones, and plant the whole plant in rich soil with only the little top leaves exposed. The denuded stem will then develop roots where each leaf has been removed, and the resulting plant will be healthier and more productive. Otherwise, it will be leggy and slower growing.

                                Mine use tons of water, but they are in very large planters so they dry out quicker than if they were in the ground. I am also in Southern California, and I think you are okay here with planting a little later in the season.
                                "Random capitAlization really Makes my day." -- AndNirina

                                Comment


                                • #17
                                  You could replant them or pinch them off. A tomato will re-grow from virtually nothing if pinched back so there is still at least one set of leaves.. And a broken off tomato, if it is replanted so the break is well under the surface and kept well watered, will survive. I've experimented and left both accidents with 100% survival rate.

                                  That being said, I wouldn't bother to direct sow tomato seeds. I start all mine in pots, either in the house or in a cold frame. The direct sow is just too hit and miss.
                                  ::Sometimes you have to burn a few bridges to keep the crazies from following you::

                                  Comment


                                  • #18
                                    I don't direct-sow either - all my direct-sows are last year's volunteers, and they really do end up doing well! But, it's the best of the best seeds/plants that survive that, so...

                                    I always start seeds inside about 8-12 weeks before they need to be put in the ground. It just makes for a quicker take-off once the weather really starts warming up. Just don't let them get root-bound, they really don't like that and growth can come to a screeching halt for a while. So, I try to start them early enough but not too early, and I put them in big enough pots so they don't get rootbound much, if at all, by the time I put them out. Then I put them *deep*, taking off the very bottom leaves, and all that stem will grow roots as well, for a much more drought-resistant plant.
                                    ______________________________
                                    The CoTH CYA - please consult w/your veterinarian under any and all circumstances. - ET

                                    Comment


                                    • #19
                                      Originally posted by JB View Post
                                      all my direct-sows are last year's volunteers, and they really do end up doing well! But, it's the best of the best seeds/plants that survive that, so...
                                      And... if they are volunteers from hybrids, who knows what they are. I wonder what percentage of varieties in a given zone will survive as volunteers? Me thinks there is a lengthy scientific study waiting in there somewhere.

                                      This year I decided against turning my dining room into a grow op. Then the first week of May I had an heirloom variety withdrawal panic so I started 4 heirloom varieties in the cold frame. Even though they germinated quickly, they are 4 or 5 weeks behind what I would normally have, and they looked awful shrimpy when I planted their little baby selves next to the ones I got from the nursery. But now they are the stockiest, thriftiest little guys. They are all varieties I am familiar with so we'll see how their late start compares with past performance. I'd be pretty happy to be able to use the cold frame for starting tomatoes and dispense with heat mats, timers and lights.
                                      ::Sometimes you have to burn a few bridges to keep the crazies from following you::

                                      Comment


                                      • #20
                                        Originally posted by SmartAlex View Post
                                        And... if they are volunteers from hybrids, who knows what they are. I wonder what percentage of varieties in a given zone will survive as volunteers? Me thinks there is a lengthy scientific study waiting in there somewhere.
                                        Absolutely! The volunteers I've had for the last...5? years are from an original planting of Sweet Million (hybrid). In a given spot I can find several dozen seedlings coming up from dropped tomatoes and I thin then as far apart as the area allows, wait and see which ones are growing the strongest, and thin down to 1-2 at that point. I have no idea how far removed from a SM they are now LOL

                                        This year I decided against turning my dining room into a grow op. Then the first week of May I had an heirloom variety withdrawal panic so I started 4 heirloom varieties in the cold frame. Even though they germinated quickly, they are 4 or 5 weeks behind what I would normally have, and they looked awful shrimpy when I planted their little baby selves next to the ones I got from the nursery. But now they are the stockiest, thriftiest little guys. They are all varieties I am familiar with so we'll see how their late start compares with past performance. I'd be pretty happy to be able to use the cold frame for starting tomatoes and dispense with heat mats, timers and lights.
                                        I've never used heat mats LOL It sure does speed up germination, but after a bit it doesn't seem to matter. I've never used timers, but for my veggies I do try to use lights - really helps keep things growing *up* and not reaching towards available window lighting. Lights get plugged in when i get up, unplugged when I go to bed. I do have plans in the future to get a cold frame/little greenhouse going because I'm REALLY running out of room with all my kept-indoor-over-Winter potted plants and my veggie/annual seedling trays
                                        ______________________________
                                        The CoTH CYA - please consult w/your veterinarian under any and all circumstances. - ET

                                        Comment

                                        Working...
                                        X