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Base for run in shed

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  • Base for run in shed

    I was thinking a layer of about 2 inch rock.. then a layer of stone dust... run in shed is a modular Amish made one. 10 x 20/ pad 12 x 22.

    Run in shed people say 2- 3 inches of each.

    My neighbor who is helping was thinking deeper.

    I don't want them to dig through the stone dust, but I don't want to over do it either.

    What has worked/ not worked for you? I may in the future add stall mats, but it isn't the initial plan.
    http://leakycreek.wordpress.com/ Rainbows & Mourning Doves Blog
    John P. Smith II 1973-2009 Love Always
    Father, Husband, Friend, Firefighter- Cancer Sucks- Cure Melanoma

  • #2
    Hope this is ok, OP...

    Can I add a related question--when you are putting down the base are you removing the topsoil first, or are you adding the rock on top?
    DIY Journey of Remodeling the Farmette: http://weownblackacre.blogspot.com/


    • #3
      None of my run-ins are on a special base. (Two 10 x 24, and three smaller). The dirt just is hard packed, and after about 6 years only this year is there *one* spot that is a bit of a depression inside. The key is to put the shed where there's good drainage -- at a high point, not a low point. (I learned this one the hard way!).

      Not to say you shouldn't put the base down, but thought I'd share my experience.
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      • #4
        We add a few inches of crushed caliche base and then blow dirt ends up covering it with a nice soft few inches over time.

        Definitively make the sheds be higher than the ground around them if possible.


        • #5
          That sounds like a good base. that is about what we put in. We did however mat ours. I have enjoyed how much easier the mats make cleaning the shed since ours seem to think it takes way too much effort to relieve themselves outside the shed
          Epona Farm
          Irish Draughts and Irish Draught Sport horses

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          • Original Poster

            Originally posted by TrotTrotPumpkn View Post
            Can I add a related question--when you are putting down the base are you removing the topsoil first, or are you adding the rock on top?
            My neighbor is helping... I don't think the plan is to remove topsoil, but I'm not 100% sure what he had in mind. We picked some fairly level places that are not where the water will drain towards. He wants me to buy some stakes, so we can stake out the area and then I think he's planning to level out with the stone and stone dust. I have a JD 4310 with a front end loader, so he may be thinking of scraping it first, but I'm not sure.

            I just thought 2-3 inches of stone dust didn't seem thick enough, I was thinking more 4-6.
            http://leakycreek.wordpress.com/ Rainbows & Mourning Doves Blog
            John P. Smith II 1973-2009 Love Always
            Father, Husband, Friend, Firefighter- Cancer Sucks- Cure Melanoma


            • Original Poster

              Originally posted by horsetales View Post
              That sounds like a good base. that is about what we put in. We did however mat ours. I have enjoyed how much easier the mats make cleaning the shed since ours seem to think it takes way too much effort to relieve themselves outside the shed
              I love the mats... I have them in one and they're awesome, but it would be a big project and its expensive. So... hopefully in the future... if anybody sees any great mat sales... let me know
              http://leakycreek.wordpress.com/ Rainbows & Mourning Doves Blog
              John P. Smith II 1973-2009 Love Always
              Father, Husband, Friend, Firefighter- Cancer Sucks- Cure Melanoma


              • #8
                We did our run in stall shelters and entire sacrifice paddock by doing this:

                Base Rock Class 2 (bigger rocks/chunkier)
                then added Base Rock Class 4 (lots more fines)
                then added washed concrete sand on top (but actually in the stall shelters we didn't put sand on....we just pu stall mats on top)

                I think you'll be fine with the rock, then stone dust.

                I'd make sure that the area just outside the roof is mud-proof for sure. That is where our problem area is. We've added lots of extra rock, pea gravel, carpet, drainage and finally just decided to put rubber mats down even outside the stalls.


                Since my paddock slightly slopes out towards the pasture, there was a problem area towards that side so we added rubber mats all they way outside the stall shelters down there:

                You can see the shavings pile I created well AWAY from the stall shelters so they would pee on that area, and it works!!! They WERE pee-ing closer to the shelter before and that worsened things.

                More pics:

                These stalls don't have mats OUTSIDE, just inside:

                Equine & Pet Portrait Artist
                **Morgans Do It All**


                • #9
                  Rent a power tamper to flatten and harden your layers of rocks. You absolutely can not do the same quality of job by hand tamping or dragging the tractor bucket over them.

                  I would second the suggestion to level the surface before adding the stone. Lay down some geotextile fabric if you can get it. Landscape places usually sell it. That will prevent rock mixing with dirt. Our local dirt "eats" any topping rocks or fill. Fill rocks just sink away and mix as time goes by, unless we use the geotextile fabric layer.

                  Using the power tamper may mean you start out with 4 inches of rock and end up with 2 inches packed down hard, after using the tamper. So this may call for more stone than orginally estimated. We always ORDER MORE than needed, you can make a pile of leftovers, end up using them elsewhere. Cost of delivery stays the same, for a big load or a small one of stone. Husband always says "Fill up that truck!" Rocks don't ever deteriorate waiting to be used, this year or NEXT year! It is so handy have stones on hand when you need them!!


                  • #10
                    We are building our 12x24 shalter this weekend. We will not do anything for the floor, just leave it ground, later on I will just mat it. It will end up being 2 12x12 stalls for summer use.
                    My life motto now is "You can't fix stupid!"

                    Are you going to cowboy up, or lie there and bleed


                    • #11
                      Well location (high ground!) is a good start!!
                      We used 3/4 crush (would have gotten 3/4 shale if we could have) about 5-6 inches.Its held up pretty well. Very easy. I have matted stalls but we didn't mat the loafing shed. So far, its been fine and is very easy to clean!


                      • #12
                        Unless you are going to be using mats, I would not recommend using larger size rock (like 2" or DGA) for any part of your base. No matter how deep you put it or how well you pack it, the larger rocks will eventually work their way up through the layers. You don't want to be picking those 2" rocks out of the shed in a couple of years. Actually, with just 2" of stone dust over them, a pawing horse could dig up those 2" rocks in about five minutes.

                        I would recommend scraping out the topsoil inside the shed area (depth depending on depth and type of topsoil), then using solely 3/4" minus to create your base. I agree with Bluey to build up the area under the shed higher than the surrounding ground. If your shed is in a particularly wet area or your soil doesn't drain well, then consider putting down geotextile fabric before you put down your 3/4" minus.


                        • Original Poster

                          Could I get away with using a landscape fabric to help control weeds- something like this? http://www.walmart.com/ip/Weed-Proof...abric/16683376
                          http://leakycreek.wordpress.com/ Rainbows & Mourning Doves Blog
                          John P. Smith II 1973-2009 Love Always
                          Father, Husband, Friend, Firefighter- Cancer Sucks- Cure Melanoma


                          • #14
                            Fabric really doesn't stop weeds. They take root ABOVE the fabric, among the rocks where dust blows in. You have to spray herbicide or hand weed to remove them from your rocks.

                            My brother didn't believe me on that, laid his fabric around his house and put down decorative rocks for mulch between his bushes. Lot of work, money for rocks and fabric installation. Couple years later he tore them all back out, because he couldn't keep the weeds from sprouting between the stones. Then trying to get rid of weeds was not working either. Weed whacker was shooting rocks everyplace! Wife didn't want him spraying herbicides around her lovely bushes, so it was a no-win thing.


                            • #15
                              We did nothing for the base of our run-in shed and it worked great. We did build up a pad, just so that it was a bit higher than the surrounding area. I think it was just compacted dirt. We've had it 8 years and it's great.