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Tips for new fencing!?

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  • Tips for new fencing!?

    Adding some additional fencing to my property. I am partial to using the horse wire/mesh with a board on top of that with hotwire. To keep costs low I was going to install this myself with a helper or two. Any helpful hints or tips to putting up fencing? I have done this several times before and have learned many things on my own but would love to hear feedback from others.

    I have learned that...

    -Using 16 ft boards with the 4x4 in the ground every 8 feet seems to be the most sturdy

    -Hotwire at the top is a must

    -Cementing the 4x4's in the ground prevents sagging and the fencing leaning in the future

    any others?

    Digging the holes is the worst.. using a post hole digger.. any suggestions on how to make this easier?
    Tinker Toy & Blue Bonnett

  • #2
    When digging post holes try to bell shape the hole so that the bottom in wider than the hole at ground level. This helps keep the post from being pushed up/over by moisture. I'm dealing with this for the second time on my privacy fence in my backyard... the dig the hole straight down and fill it to ground level and for some reason think the cement will just hold it in the wet ground. I'm about to just stand out there while the fence guys fix it telling them what to do... I'm sure that will please them.
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    • #3
      Cementing the posts in makes them a WHOLE lot more work if you even want to replace the fence. So in 50 years if the posts rot, you're going to have to either dig out all the cement or dig down cut the post & re-pour on top.

      Depending on your soil it really may not be necessary.

      Cementing in corner posts is generally a good idea, but I wouldn't do every post.
      "For some people it's not enough to just be a horse's bum, you have to be sea biscuit's bum" -anon.
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      • #4
        Hire out the post hole digging. A guy with the right bobcat can get all your holes dug in less time than it would take you to go pick up one of those two-man augers, and it may even cost less.

        Make the top board 5'. Taller fence means the horses won't lean over it.

        Cement and brace the corners, with H-braces.

        Don't be afraid to stretch the wire. You'll need either a tractor or a couple of come-alongs.
        If you are allergic to a thing, it is best not to put that thing in your mouth, particularly if the thing is cats. - Lemony Snicket

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        • Original Poster

          #5
          I have stretched the wire before with my truck and a thingy-mah-bob that was rigged up by a friend and it worked great.

          I do see what you are saying about not cementing every post. However if I do have this barn in 50 years hopefully Ill be well off-enough to pay someone to dig up the cement!

          I like the suggestion about hiring someone to dig the holes... that would take WAY less time! Now to find the right person to do it...
          Tinker Toy & Blue Bonnett

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          • #6
            I noticed my posts are rotting out in about 10-12 years. They are not treated. It is a pain to replace a cemented post, and I have had horses break posts (ok and I have broken one with the tractor). Are your posts treated?

            We have a post hole digger for the back of the tractor, so easy I can do it myself. Bet a caveman could even do it. Goes way quicker then hand digging.
            Derby Lyn Farms Website

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            • #7
              Get someone to drive the posts. So much easier/faster than digging!

              Drive when the ground is soft/wet. Spring is great for building fence. Do not drive, or dig, postholes in August after a draught. You will pound or work yourself to death, one or the other.

              Comment

              • Original Poster

                #8
                Yes

                Yes my fencing is all treated lumber and even the posts that are 10-12 yrs old are still strong.
                Last edited by WARDen; Mar. 29, 2012, 02:56 PM. Reason: I can't type
                Tinker Toy & Blue Bonnett

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                • Original Poster

                  #9
                  fordtraktor - how do you drive posts?
                  Tinker Toy & Blue Bonnett

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    With a tractor and a post driver: http://www.wikco.com/wspostdrvr.html

                    Hire someone experienced if you have never done it, can be very dangerous for the untrained but a huge time saver and improvement in getting clean, tight posts. Dig/Cement the corners and brace posts and you are good to go.

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                    • #11
                      The driven posts on my farm have all floated out of their holes (high water table and clay soil makes for very, very soft ground) So I think the driven posts work well in some soils, but not all.
                      -Jessica

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                      • #12
                        Do you cement all your posts, AppJumpr? I have had more trouble with tamped posts getting loose during wet weather than driven ones.

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                        • #13
                          My line posts are not cemented. They are 3' in, and they are in straight level lines. If they were bending or dealing with terrain I'd add cement.

                          My corner posts are 4'6" deep. The typical post hole digger that you'd buy for your own tractor won't go that deep.
                          If you are allergic to a thing, it is best not to put that thing in your mouth, particularly if the thing is cats. - Lemony Snicket

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by fordtraktor View Post
                            Do you cement all your posts, AppJumpr? I have had more trouble with tamped posts getting loose during wet weather than driven ones.
                            No cement - my ex husband drove them into the ground with the tractor when the ground was soft in the spring. The posts set using a post hole digger (no cement but 3' holes) are staying nice and straight.
                            -Jessica

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