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Trailer brake and wiring woes...

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  • Trailer brake and wiring woes...

    I've always had problems with the brakes on my 3H aluminim Exiss. They work too well. Actually, they catch before the truck brakes do, so I get skidding tires when the trailer is empty- not usually an issue as long as a have a horse on the trailer. In the past, I've always just dialed down the controller to nothing- I've got plenty of truck to stop the trailer (my new truck has an exhaust brake). This new truck ('99 F350 dually PSD) and the controller that came with it is worse than the rest- I can't dial it down low enough. I unhooked the connection for the last trip! Any suggestions for a good brake controller that can be dialed down to nothing when empty?

    My other issue- some dumbass decided to hack at wires to the factory plug in. We had to cut off the factory end and splice wires- fun... NOT! So now all we have is running lights and brakes. No brake lights, no turn signals. I know it's the truck 'cuz we hooked it up to the old truck and everything worked. Anybody know where I can get a replacement factory end, and/or what's the location of the rest of the fuses for trailer lights- we already replaced the one under the hood- that one gave us brakes and running lights.
    Last edited by shakeytails; Mar. 20, 2012, 10:40 AM.

  • #2
    Read the forth paragraph. Do that and report back.



    • #3
      <LI class=g>Trailer wiring F350 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

      www.ford-trucks.com › ... › Super Duty & Heavy DutyCached - Similar
      You +1'd this publicly. Undo
      May 20, 2007 – Trailer wiring F350 Super Duty & Heavy Duty. ... Super Duty & Heavy Duty 1999 to current Ford F250, F350, F450 and F550 Super Duty with ...
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      • #4
        solder all wire connections. NO crimp on connectors anywhere.

        rosin core electronics solder.

        3M 33+ (Lowes or Home Depot) electric tape. don't stretch it, don't snap it off, cut it with a sharp knife and the end will stay sealed down.

        Use di-electric grease on all grounding anchors anywhere after cleaning down to shiny metal.

        Fix it right once, and it will be good for over a couple of decades unless abused.


        • #5
          I hope Exiss is not one of the stupid companies that invented their own color coding. If it is, good luck.



          • Original Poster

            Tom King- you're the best!!! Why can't I find this stuff when I Google?

            I'll try the "fourth paragraph" - I had no clue, neither did DH.

            I'll definitely have to get a tester, and a soldering gun. It'll still be cheaper than taking it to a trailer place to have them sort it all out. I guess we were kinda optimistic just crimping matching wires and hoping it would work. We needed to use the trailer and didn't have a whole lot of time to mess with it. Sounds like a project for this weekend...


            • #7
              No problem. I speak Google since I kind of know what I'm looking for and read really fast. After that, it's just copy and paste. My first two posts were pretty close together, but I went away and came back twice for the other two when I thought about stuff that would probably be useful information.

              If you have an old flat four way plug laying around, you can slice it open where you only have a couple of the pin ends, splice which pins you need to a couple of pieces of wire, and using a battery-can be in a vehicle, connect the ground to the grounding pin in the trailer connector, and then plug away on the others to see which does what. Mix and match to your truck wiring.

              To tell if which is the brake circuit, have the other person hold a compass halfway between a wheel spindle and top of rim. When the brake magnet is energized, the compass needle will point to the wheel.