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How do you repair pot holes in a gravel driveway?

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  • How do you repair pot holes in a gravel driveway?

    'Cause I happen to know just putting more gravel in the pot hole doesn't work for very long...

    Need some specifics--obviously I have to fix the base I just don't understand what that entails and what equipment I need (or need to hire.) I've got a 1000+ feet of driveway and most of it is great so I just need to "spot treat" it somehow.

  • #2
    We get a skid loader order some #2 stone dig out the hole refill base w/ 2's then add crush run and add layer of stone dust my drive is about 600 feet long w/ turn and a slight hill. We also have slow down bumps the help divert run off so no deep wash outs occure.


    • #3
      You need to regrade those spots--the surface around the potholes is hard and new gravel is soft--the new stuff just gets tossed out the moment you drive over it. A box blade with scarifying teeth will do the trick as long as you have a fairly beefy tractor. Dig up and soften the whole pothole with the teeth, then level with the box blade. Correctly set and leveled you can do it all in a few passes.
      Click here before you buy.


      • Original Poster

        Originally posted by deltawave View Post
        A box blade with scarifying teeth will do the trick as long as you have a fairly beefy tractor.
        Oh joy! More stuff to buy--mr. subk will be thrilled. Thank goodness I already have tractor beef.


        • #5
          Compared to the tractor, a box blade is pocket change. $700-800, tops. With a long gravel driveway like yours (ours is 1/4 mile) you will be ever so glad you have this item. Very handy for moving footing around in dirt paddocks/arenas, too, once you master the art of not gouging the h*ll out of everything with those big teeth. You can even move a little bit of snow with them--Tennessee snow, not Michigan snow.

          There are some nifty arena graders that will do double duty, but I haven't got one of those. The box blade is big and mean and has no trouble with the hard-packed gravel, whereas I'd not want to mangle an arena grader doing tough work like that.
          Click here before you buy.


          • #6
            For small holes, I have had good luck filling with gravel, adding dirt to lock it together, then adding another top layer of gravel, and driving over it multiple times.

            It's not going to be perfectly level and it's not going to be as good as using the real tools, but it may meet your need for a while.
            If you are allergic to a thing, it is best not to put that thing in your mouth, particularly if the thing is cats. - Lemony Snicket


            • #7
              I have to look after my very steep 1/4 mile driveway and find an open blade on the tractor a lot easier. Doubles as a snow plow on the rare occasions that we need one.
              ... _. ._ .._. .._


              • #8
                I've found that filling with what we call 6/10 limestone will permanently fill a pothole so it's like concrete. 6/10 is a mix of limestone dust and crushed limestone. Wet it down before you fill the hole, fill to just a bit above ground level, let it set for a day and then drive over and over it.

                We had a gravel bar from the main road in a ditch that formed a dam. I'd go down with my shovel and a cart, fill the cart, bring it home and dump. My potholes seem to be as permanently filled as you're likely to ever get in a gravel drive.
                "I'm a lumberjack, and I'm okay."
                Thread killer Extraordinaire


                • #9
                  I fill mine with 3/4" drain rock and it works great. 3/4"minus did not work so well for some reason. I've found some good info at this website before --- the Center For Dirt and Gravel Road Studies. LOL!