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Advice on building a tack room in a humid barn

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  • Advice on building a tack room in a humid barn

    Hi! My barn is a Pennsylvania Bank barn, which has a lot of moisture. I would really like to build an appropriate tack room in which I could keep my tack, etc. without having to worry about it getting moldy and ruined from mold and another moisture related problems. Any advice in what I could do to make the tack room not humid?? Thanks!

  • #2
    No expert, but I think I would insulate the tack room and have a vent/fan in the ceiling (like a bathroom). Not sure, but it might be an idea!
    Breeders of Painted Thoroughbreds and Uniquely Painted Irish Sport Horses in Northeast Oklahoma


    • #3
      What about getting a dehumidifier?
      They even make them with an ac too. I have one of those portable kind, ac and dehumidify.
      save lives...spay/neuter/geld


      • #4
        Build a small room (or a large room) and insulate it. The best insulation for high-humidity areas seems to be "Rock Wool". Rock wool is very similar to fiberglass (batt insulation), except that it is supposedly impervious to mold, mildew, fungus and moisture (100% humidity and still pouring down rain). The birds and rodents won't use it to build their nests, and the spiders don't like to live in it. Apparently it is three times as *itchy* to handle as regular fiberglass insulation, but once it is installed it is supposed to be excellent.

        All of the Southern commercial buildings in my county use it (schools, public institutions, industrial buildings).

        I am getting ready to build a building that I intend to insulate with rock wool batting instead of regular old fiberglass batting. I need to be able to control the humidity levels all of the time, and heat & cool some of the time.

        The bulding is going to have three areas: an apartment upstairs, a large garage for my truck downstairs, and a section running all the way down one side for a 12' X 36' tack room that can store feed concentrates and medical stuff.

        I want my tack in an environmentally controlled area.

        ETA: dehumidifiers are great and efficient, but they work best in an insulated room.


        • #5
          Definitely insulate if you can, and install a big old dehumidifier, with enough "oomph" to keep up. I have an ancient one in my tack room, which is well insulated (sprayed in foam), and not a speck of moisture or mildew. It does kick out major heat, so it's more toasty in there in the summer than it would be without the dehumidifier. In the winter the added heat is a bonus. If the floor is going to be concrete you can put a vapor barrier underneath, obviously not after the fact, though.
          Click here before you buy.


          • #6
            The other thing(s) that works really well in the battle against humidity, mildew and mold is a really good fan.


            • #7
              We have an insulated tack room that is finished with drywall...we still got mold so we bought one of those room dehumidifiers. It works like a charm! We have to dump it daily when it's very humid, but it's doing the trick.


              • #8
                Drywall is apparently notorious for encouraging mold . Down here the best local grain milling group uses plywood instead of drywall on the interior walls of their insulated grain rooms.

                That's what I am going to put up on the interior walls of my tack room.

                The local carpenters will sand the edges sometimes and then they will add blocking between the studs where the horizontal seams of the plywood are going to rest so they can nail all of the edges. It ends up looking much nicer than one would think.

                And they prefer oil based paint.
                Last edited by BaroquePony; Oct. 4, 2011, 09:02 AM.


                • #9
                  We live in the Pacific Northwest. You know, the place where it rains 366 days of the year! I completely agree with insulating the tackroom walls well. I used plywood for the interior walls and painted them. Concrete floor with underlayment and vinyl tiles on top. Do you have power out there? I have a tiny in-wall heater that I will run on colder days when I am there. Then I turn it off before I leave the barn. Another thing I do that has worked very well for me for years are those Dry-Z-Air baskets with the absorbing crystals. I have 3 in my 12x12 tack room. The same thing people use on their boats and RVs.


                  • #10
                    Get one you don't have to empty. I'd like a simple drain better than a pump, but this is first one I could find that you don't have to empty.


                    Some have a draining option without the pump: http://www.lowes.com/pl_Dehumidifiers_4294936920__


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Tom King View Post
                      Get one you don't have to empty. I'd like a simple drain better than a pump, but this is first one I could find that you don't have to empty.


                      Some have a draining option without the pump: http://www.lowes.com/pl_Dehumidifiers_4294936920__
                      Our older Sears dehumidifier has a threaded outlet on the water receptacle that would allow one to hook up a hose and drain it by gravity without having to empty.
                      "It's like a Russian nesting doll of train wrecks."--CaitlinandTheBay

                      ...just settin' on the Group W bench.


                      • #12
                        Mine is steel walls lined with 2" untreated pine tongue and groove, with an insulated metal roof, and concrete floor. No mold or mildew in Georgia.

                        Grainger always have a great supply of dehumidifiers (most can use drain hoses); http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...n_dim_search=1
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