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What do you use for jump rails/ where to get them ?

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  • What do you use for jump rails/ where to get them ?

    I did a search but couldn't get any other threads to come up, so apologies if this has been beaten to death!

    We are building jumps (aka the boyfriend is building me jumps, love him! ) and he has asked me what and where to get the rails from.... I kind of blanked out. I know some people use the landscaping railroad ties but Id really like to find some 12' poles so they are "real" fences lol.For our old jumps we occasionally used old fence rails but they were not of the jump cup variety, they had pegs and the rails sat on them, not in them like the rails do in jump cups. I think for safety sake the rails won't really work with the jump cups.

    He has the standards all built and they look fantastic, he is even going to paint them in my colors Any ideas and/or past experiences on the rails/poles?
    -SW-
    Precious Few- 1998 OTTB

  • #2
    I just picked 10 up at the feed store. A COTH poster told me where to get them. Pressure treated poles - they came in 10' and 12'. Fit right in to jump cups.

    Check your local co-op/feed store.
    Brothers and sisters, I bid you beware
    Of giving your heart to a dog to tear.
    -Rudyard Kipling

    Comment


    • #3
      I just use trees that we cut down when thinning. My favorite is poplar, nice and straight!

      You can get 4x4's and rip a triangle off each corner to make octagonal poles. (Curiously, the stores here only have 14' lumber, not 12'.)

      The round poles might have to be special ordered, I've never seen them in stock anywhere.

      I've just used landscape timbers before too. They are fine for verticals but make for some very narrow cross rails!
      --
      Wendy
      ... and Patrick

      Comment


      • #4
        We use the 10' posts from the local farm store -- they come in different widths and if you look at them, you'll be able to judge the right size (I think the ones we get are the 3 to 4 inch size, but not sure as it has been awhile). I've always done 10' wide jumps rather than 12' as those are better in a small ring, which we always seem to have, easier to store, and lighter in weight to carry. But I think you can get the posts in 12' lengths as well.

        They aren't as perfectly smooth and even as milled round rails, but much cheaper and I've painted them and they do fine.

        The other option is to get 4"x4" square lumber and knock the edges off to make an octagon shape, but that always seemed like too much work for me. We had it done once, and the guy doing the work burnt up his saw in the process, so we never tried it again!

        Comment

        • Original Poster

          #5
          Awesome! The fence poles from the farm store and the 4x4 trimming sound like great ideas! Thanks!
          -SW-
          Precious Few- 1998 OTTB

          Comment


          • #6
            I buy thick PVC at lowes and put tape on for color instead of painting, lasts longer. If you need more weight, there are weighted ends you can buy but not sure where.

            Comment


            • #7
              I use PVC poles... They work fine for my barn since all the horses there are pretty careful, but if you have a less careful jumper you're probably going to want to get pressure treated wood poles. Knocking down what is essentially a small, straight tree makes a little more of an impression than knocking down a plastic tube lol.
              Trying a life outside of FEI tents and hotel rooms.

              Comment


              • #8
                Just curious because I don't jump...

                Would it be better to use 2 2x4s glued together with corners knocked off rather than a 4x4s? Generally (properly) glued lumber is more stable than solid pieces. Any time I've left a 4x4 laying around for any length of time it twists and warps. Or don't they warp once you make them into octagons?

                Comment


                • #9
                  We get ours from the lumber yards. It is an item they carry in normal inventory.

                  I was able to get my jump cups made at the local high school as a shop project for cost of materials. A few kids were behind on turning in projects and needed something as a 'make-up' and did them for me.
                  Proud member of People Who Hate to Kill Wildlife clique

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I got 10' round fencing rails and sawed off the ends (they had pegs). I like having the "skinnier" jumps because it makes the jumps feel so wide when I go to shows! PVC freaks me out because of the way it splinters when it breaks.
                    "Last time I picked your feet, you broke my toe!"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Jumps by Fuzzy is local even though he supplies jumps for many big venues across the country. I drive a few miles to Fuzzy's warehouse and buy some of his used stock at a discount. It's kind of like cheating.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        We also do the treated 4"x4", cut the corners off to make octagons. They roll when needed, stay put when needed. Better than round rails.

                        If the wood is very green with preservative, means they are wet so they may warp. I get ours and stack them so they are flat, with wood pieces to hold them level in place while they dry out. Doesn't seem to take long to dry, especially in the sunshine. Giving them a coat or two of paint or outdoor stain, helps them be more stable and not warp much after drying.

                        You can get cheapy paint from stores selling paint, wrong color mixes etc.. I may have them add some more white for lightest possible color, before using on the rails or standards. Good way to protect the wood in the sun, lasts a fairly long time.

                        Husband wanted to do rails as quick as possible, so never did the glue thing. I think I would prefer the solid rail, no seams to collect water or glue to fail in expected long life of a rail.

                        We have 10ft rails, easier to move, still gives the horse plenty of space between the standards. 12ft rails get heavy if you need to move them a lot. Practicing with 10ft wide jumps at home, horse is used to them, leaves PLENTY of room for 12ft rails used at shows!

                        I never use the PVC rails. Teaches horse bad habits of dragging a foot and not getting stung with weight of wood. Some horses learn that PVC is EASY to just smash into, won't jump. Lastly, is that even heavywall PVC is NOT designed for sunshine use, gets brittle. Horse banging a plastic rail can shatter the whole tube, making for MANY VERY SHARP plastic pieces on the ground to land on. I know this because I owned the lazy footed horse, who knocked down a rail that shattered. But she STOPPED instantly when I said WHOA! My kid was riding. Horse did not move a muscle, and didn't get cut up by a miracle. Missed the back of all her pasterns by fractions of an inch. Stood while I cleaned up the sharp pieces. That was the LAST time we have ever jumped PVC rails. I hauled my own wood rails for practice afterwards.

                        Comment

                        • Original Poster

                          #13
                          PVC is a no go for me. Mine has no respect for it. Rails HAVE to have plenty of weight to them... or just look like wood. He knows the difference. Rarely touches it if he knows it's wood. PVC on the other hand he'll just lazily drag his feet through.

                          Lots of good ideas!
                          -SW-
                          Precious Few- 1998 OTTB

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Check with a fencing supply dealer in your area. Some
                            fence posts have to be 12' long (for example, to put in
                            a fence for elk or deer being raised domestically). Those
                            fences are 8' high and you need to go 4' down for
                            stability. The treated fence posts are less likely to warp
                            than 4x4s. You can get posts in 3.5" diameter if you
                            want light ones, but the 4" and 5" are more durable.
                            Robin from Dancing Horse Hill
                            Elmwood, Wisconsin

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              3", schedule 40 PVC pipe. You want schedule 40, NOT light wt drain pipe.
                              If you are happy with 10' rails, it comes in 10 and 20' lengths. If you want 12 ft, etc rails you will need to get the 20' sections and deal with the waste.

                              In reference to the horse above that has no respect for PVC rails, it is prob because they are the lightwt drain pipe and/or don't have anything in them for weight.

                              Get a plain 2 x 4, don't need treated. Rip the edges so it fits TIGHTLY inside the pipe. They add wt to the rail.

                              Get end caps for the 3" pipe and glue them on with PVC glue.

                              Some people fill them with sand, or partially fill them. But the sand shifts left and right.

                              Comment


                              • #16
                                Originally posted by mg View Post
                                I got 10' round fencing rails and sawed off the ends (they had pegs). I like having the "skinnier" jumps because it makes the jumps feel so wide when I go to shows! PVC freaks me out because of the way it splinters when it breaks.
                                We have had PVC poles from Lowes for 6 years and I have never had one splinter. They do break but it is always clean.

                                Comment


                                • #17
                                  Originally posted by flyingkfarm View Post
                                  We have had PVC poles from Lowes for 6 years and I have never had one splinter. They do break but it is always clean.
                                  'Tis the reason to use the schedule 40 pipe. Most people just buy what is cheapest, which is the thin walled drainage pipe. And it does splinter.

                                  I bet flyingk's pipe is schedule 40?

                                  Comment


                                  • #18
                                    12' 4"X4" 's, set the table saw blade at 45 degrees and saw off the corners. I built all my standards, 10 pairs, and made all my poles and panels. Old fence boards make great panels, just notch the ends so they sit in the cups.

                                    Coat of paint helps them last out in the weather and always store them flat/level.
                                    You're entitled to your own opinion, not your own facts!

                                    Comment


                                    • #19
                                      I have always used 4 inch PVC pipes. I think they are 10' long. I love them. I paint them however I want and they last forever. I have had some for over 12 years and I just repainted them. They are lightweight and east to see. I have used landscape timbers but I do not like them as well.
                                      http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fentre...24774504235082

                                      http://fentressfieldsequestriancenter.com/

                                      Comment


                                      • #20
                                        Originally posted by MeghanDACVA View Post
                                        3", schedule 40 PVC pipe. You want schedule 40, NOT light wt drain pipe.
                                        If you are happy with 10' rails, it comes in 10 and 20' lengths. If you want 12 ft, etc rails you will need to get the 20' sections and deal with the waste.

                                        In reference to the horse above that has no respect for PVC rails, it is prob because they are the lightwt drain pipe and/or don't have anything in them for weight.

                                        Get a plain 2 x 4, don't need treated. Rip the edges so it fits TIGHTLY inside the pipe. They add wt to the rail.

                                        Get end caps for the 3" pipe and glue them on with PVC glue.
                                        That's a great idea if you need more weight! My mare has always been a careful jumper and never even touches groundrails though.
                                        http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fentre...24774504235082

                                        http://fentressfieldsequestriancenter.com/

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