• Welcome to the Chronicle Forums.
    Please complete your profile. The forums and the rest of www.chronofhorse.com has single sign-in, so your log in information for one will automatically work for the other. Disclaimer: The opinions expressed here are the views of the individual and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of The Chronicle of the Horse.



Forum rules and no-advertising policy

As a participant on this forum, it is your responsibility to know and follow our rules. Please read this message in its entirety.

Board Rules

1. You’re responsible for what you say.
As outlined in Section 230 of the Communications Decency Act, The Chronicle of the Horse and its affiliates, as well Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd., the developers of vBulletin, are not legally responsible for statements made in the forums.

This is a public forum viewed by a wide spectrum of people, so please be mindful of what you say and who might be reading it—details of personal disputes are likely better handled privately. While posters are legally responsible for their statements, the moderators may in their discretion remove or edit posts that violate these rules. Users have the ability to modify or delete their own messages after posting, but administrators generally will not delete posts, threads or accounts upon request.

Outright inflammatory, vulgar, harassing, malicious or otherwise inappropriate statements and criminal charges unsubstantiated by a reputable news source or legal documentation will not be tolerated and will be dealt with at the discretion of the moderators.

2. Conversations in horse-related forums should be horse-related.
The forums are a wonderful source of information and support for members of the horse community. While it’s understandably tempting to share information or search for input on other topics upon which members might have a similar level of knowledge, members must maintain the focus on horses.

3. Keep conversations productive, on topic and civil.
Discussion and disagreement are inevitable and encouraged; personal insults, diatribes and sniping comments are unproductive and unacceptable. Whether a subject is light-hearted or serious, keep posts focused on the current topic and of general interest to other participants of that thread. Utilize the private message feature or personal email where appropriate to address side topics or personal issues not related to the topic at large.

4. No advertising in the discussion forums.
Posts in the discussion forums directly or indirectly advertising horses, jobs, items or services for sale or wanted will be removed at the discretion of the moderators. Use of the private messaging feature or email addresses obtained through users’ profiles for unsolicited advertising is not permitted.

Company representatives may participate in discussions and answer questions about their products or services, or suggest their products on recent threads if they fulfill the criteria of a query. False "testimonials" provided by company affiliates posing as general consumers are not appropriate, and self-promotion of sales, ad campaigns, etc. through the discussion forums is not allowed.

Paid advertising is available on our classifieds site and through the purchase of banner ads. The tightly monitored Giveaways forum permits free listings of genuinely free horses and items available or wanted (on a limited basis). Items offered for trade are not allowed.

Advertising Policy Specifics
When in doubt of whether something you want to post constitutes advertising, please contact a moderator privately in advance for further clarification. Refer to the following points for general guidelines:

Horses – Only general discussion about the buying, leasing, selling and pricing of horses is permitted. If the post contains, or links to, the type of specific information typically found in a sales or wanted ad, and it’s related to a horse for sale, regardless of who’s selling it, it doesn’t belong in the discussion forums.

Stallions – Board members may ask for suggestions on breeding stallion recommendations. Stallion owners may reply to such queries by suggesting their own stallions, only if their horse fits the specific criteria of the original poster. Excessive promotion of a stallion by its owner or related parties is not permitted and will be addressed at the discretion of the moderators.

Services – Members may use the forums to ask for general recommendations of trainers, barns, shippers, farriers, etc., and other members may answer those requests by suggesting themselves or their company, if their services fulfill the specific criteria of the original post. Members may not solicit other members for business if it is not in response to a direct, genuine query.

Products – While members may ask for general opinions and suggestions on equipment, trailers, trucks, etc., they may not list the specific attributes for which they are in the market, as such posts serve as wanted ads.

Event Announcements – Members may post one notification of an upcoming event that may be of interest to fellow members, if the original poster does not benefit financially from the event. Such threads may not be “bumped” excessively. Premium members may post their own notices in the Event Announcements forum.

Charities/Rescues – Announcements for charitable or fundraising events can only be made for 501(c)(3) tax-exempt organizations. Special exceptions may be made, at the moderators’ discretion and direction, for board-related events or fundraising activities in extraordinary circumstances.

Occasional posts regarding horses available for adoption through IRS-registered horse rescue or placement programs are permitted in the appropriate forums, but these threads may be limited at the discretion of the moderators. Individuals may not advertise or make announcements for horses in need of rescue, placement or adoption unless the horse is available through a recognized rescue or placement agency or government-run entity or the thread fits the criteria for and is located in the Giveaways forum.

5. Do not post copyrighted photographs unless you have purchased that photo and have permission to do so.

6. Respect other members.
As members are often passionate about their beliefs and intentions can easily be misinterpreted in this type of environment, try to explore or resolve the inevitable disagreements that arise in the course of threads calmly and rationally.

If you see a post that you feel violates the rules of the board, please click the “alert” button (exclamation point inside of a triangle) in the bottom left corner of the post, which will alert ONLY the moderators to the post in question. They will then take whatever action, or no action, as deemed appropriate for the situation at their discretion. Do not air grievances regarding other posters or the moderators in the discussion forums.

Please be advised that adding another user to your “Ignore” list via your User Control Panel can be a useful tactic, which blocks posts and private messages by members whose commentary you’d rather avoid reading.

7. We have the right to reproduce statements made in the forums.
The Chronicle of the Horse may copy, quote, link to or otherwise reproduce posts, or portions of posts, in print or online for advertising or editorial purposes, if attributed to their original authors, and by posting in this forum, you hereby grant to The Chronicle of the Horse a perpetual, non-exclusive license under copyright and other rights, to do so.

8. We reserve the right to enforce and amend the rules.
The moderators may delete, edit, move or close any post or thread at any time, or refrain from doing any of the foregoing, in their discretion, and may suspend or revoke a user’s membership privileges at any time to maintain adherence to the rules and the general spirit of the forum. These rules may be amended at any time to address the current needs of the board.

Please see our full Terms of Service and Privacy Policy for more information.

Thanks for being a part of the COTH forums!

(Revised 1/26/16)
See more
See less

Mowing pasture without "bumps"

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Mowing pasture without "bumps"

    I didn't know how to word that LOL

    Our tractor (Ford 4000) came with a 5' finish mower (Work Saver) so that's what we mow the pasture with. It's very basic - has the wheels to (supposedly) prevent scalping (yeah, right) and attaches to the PTO and the other connections.

    The problem is the uneven pasture - when the front tires dip, the mower tips up a little bit, leaving the grass taller, and when the rear tires run through the same dip, the mower dips lower and cuts that section shorter.

    This is obviously because the whole vertical plane of the mower is attached to the rear of the tractor.

    If/when this setup ever changes, is there such a thing as a mower that will just be pulled (powered by the PTO of course) and you set its height on its own, so the tractor going up and down doesn't affect the height of the mower?
    The CoTH CYA - please consult w/your veterinarian under any and all circumstances. - ET

  • #2
    Most finish mowers I have seen roll on their own wheels and are not affected by the tractor moving up and down.


    • Original Poster


      It is directly attached to the tractor's arms and the middle "shaft" part (whose name I don't know, not the pto).

      Those connections are rigid. I raise and lower the mower height from the tractor.
      The CoTH CYA - please consult w/your veterinarian under any and all circumstances. - ET


      • #4
        On the 4000's, there are two levers that control the height of the implement. The outside one is "absolute" position... eg, you move lever, implement moves by same amount and stays there. The inside one is called "draft" position, it means it tries to balance out the movement of the tractor in space to hold an implement at the same height relative to the ground.

        Park your outside lever in the "down" position, set your implement height with your insiside lever, and adjust the collars on the anti-scalp wheels to accomodate the height change

        Note: it's not a magic bullet, and you DO have to be driving slow enough for the tractor to compensate for the movement. personally, I hate the blasted thing and have become quite skilled at adjusting the mower hieght with the primary lever as the terrain shifts.
        Last edited by Belg; Jun. 3, 2011, 08:42 AM. Reason: lots of typios :)
        Nudging "Almost Heaven" a little closer still...


        • #5
          I think you have the wrong impliment for the job (sorry)

          To my understanding finishing mowers are for flat surfaces like lawns, golf courses, airports, etc.

          I think to do a proper job you need a bush hog. They are ajustable on the impliment themselves. I know thats not what you want to hear. Maybe you can take the finish mower to a dealership for trade. If all your cutting is grass you can get by with a light duty bush hog


          • #6
            PS the middle shaft is the "Top Link" ;-)


            • #7
              Our finish mower, a Ford, has pivoting pieces to connect to the 3pt hitch. The mower height is set by raising and lowering the wheels which rotated independently. Then the side pins are on these pivoting pieces of steel attached to the hitch frame. The pieces go up and down at least 8 inches. The place where the bar attaches also is moveable independently, so mower and tractor can be a different levels over bumps.

              Looks like this model:


              The U-shape thing at the top pivots on a pin, with the adjustable bar attaching in the open end. The lower metal pieces with pins are not as visible, but also pivot up and down on a pin anchored in the frame.

              I am not sure how well I will like the finish mower yet. We just got it, ground has been terribly muddy, so it hasn't had a fair trial. I have used the bush hog mower for years, does a fair job on smooth or rough ground.

              I usually disc our fields and paddocks to reduce hoof prints gained in very wet weather. A one pass slicing (not turning it up for planting dirt), cuts the turf to aerate the compacted soil, seems to inspire the grass to grow even better. I am using that garden method, "cut your plants apart, they will grow better!" Then I lightly drag using my chain harrow (with car tires tied on to hold it down), over everything to smooth the rough ground a bit more. The grass will look slightly rough for a week or so, then everything comes back. Pastures and paddocks look good, grow well with the benefit of MUCH smoother ground to walk or drive over. Some of the old, deep hoofprints would twist your leg! Cutting the soil benefits the pasture plants roots, slows the rain runoff.

              So perhaps if you can borrow a small disc, cut your ground a bit, drag after, it will help smoothness in the field, to allow the finish mower to do a better job for you.


              • #8
                actually I think finish mowers are better at following the terrain than "bush hogs" (rotary mowers - singe shaft). Finish mowers often have problems with pasture height grass, but that is another issue.

                Here is a good thread on setting the wheels etc on rotary mowers http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/a...ush-hog-9.html


                • #9
                  Get yourself a zero turn

                  Great for small pastures. We mow our entire 40 acres with it, place looks like a golf course. We have a bush hog and it's been in the garage under a tarp for about 5 years now. Zero turns are WAY better.


                  • #10
                    The other name for that third element is the "stupid (or %#*#) twisty bar" since whenever I use the term top link the rest of my family looks like I've grown a second head. So I repeat "the twisty bar" and they go 'Oh, of course". because you twist it to change the height.

                    I gave up calling it the top link after the 3rd year.


                    • #11
                      Depending on what size your tractor is, I recommend a mower with wheels (Bush Hog, Servis-Rhino) that is attached to your draw bar and leveled by hydraulics. It gives you the ability to float the mower across the pasture.
                      Yes, you will have scalp marks on the excessive high spots or low spots. Because sometimes they cannot be helped, due to terrain, wild hog damage, crossing swales the wrong way (cross at a diagonal-to ease the mower across [or possible to blow a "U" joint] if crossing straight across the swale).

                      I have had 3 point hitch mowers and have draw bar/hydraulic type. I prefer the latter.


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by 2ndyrgal View Post
                        Great for small pastures. We mow our entire 40 acres with it, place looks like a golf course. We have a bush hog and it's been in the garage under a tarp for about 5 years now. Zero turns are WAY better.

                        What benefit does a Zero Turn have over a tractor?

                        What about a tractor over a zero turn?


                        • #13
                          [QUOTE=LMH;5645386]What benefit does a Zero Turn have over a tractor?QUOTE]

                          The inherent disadvantages of any rear mounted mower system are:
                          - The heavy rear wheels go over the grass before the mower does, so some amount of grass is mashed down and not mowed.
                          - Unless you have one of the pull type mowers with wheels mentioned above, the height of the cutting changes, to greater or lesser degrees, based on what the front end of the tractor is doing. front end dips down, mower raises; front end goes up, mower dips.

                          I wish my zero turn would go as high as I usually want to mow my pastures, was wider, and had a floating seat!

                          One dis-advantage of zero turns is that they often do not handle hills well. Your acceleration, steering and braking all depend on the rear wheels keeping traction. If they start to slide, hang on, you are in for a wild ride!

                          2YG's farm does look fabulous.


                          • Original Poster

                            Thanks for all the replies!

                            Trading in isn't an option LOL We'll have this mower until it croaks.

                            It's not like my pasture ends up with a 50/50 split of 12" tall chunks inbetween scalped chunks LOL I'm just trying to think ahead, or find out if there's anything that could be done now. I know where all my lumps and bumps are and I (mostly) remember to slow down so the height differences are minimal.

                            I kept the "but you should be able to set this and that to allow for more float" in mind as I mowed last night, but I don't believe I have any of the extra adjustments talked about.

                            There is no way to adjust the height of the wheels on the mower. There is 1 height.

                            There is no "inside and outside" or whatever. There is one height adjustment with a wingnut keeping it from ever going lower (so you adjust that wing nut if you need to make sure it doesn't go below that).

                            I rarely have an issue with the grass height, as I never let it get to the point where it NEEDS a bushhog. The exception was the first mowing this Spring, as the tractor was in the shop for 5 weeks, including all of a rainy April, so I had to mow tall grass I just did it in 2 passes, with the first pass set quite high. Beyond that, it's never tall enough that a normal height is a problem.

                            Interesting discussion!
                            The CoTH CYA - please consult w/your veterinarian under any and all circumstances. - ET