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Fencing ideas for a short run

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  • Fencing ideas for a short run

    I have a short section of fence to do on the front of the property and I am looking for ideas.

    We moved our garage (cut it off the foundation, braced it, dragged it with a tractor into the field on to a new pad, voila, a new barn/shed!). To use this field now, I need to install two short segments of fence totaling about 100', one with a corner. The longest straight run is only about 50'.

    My favorite fence is the 5' no climb with a top rail of the Ramm flex fence. However, tensioning and bracing such short sections is going to be annoying and a bit expensive, and the flex fence comes in 330' rolls. This area will not be regularly used for the horses, though I'd like to be able to turn horses out there safely from time to time so they can mow it. I do want it to keep dogs in. I can envision sheep or chickens out there also.

    Extra material is, of course, always an excuse for installing more fencing, so that's not all bad.

    I am now thinking of doing this section in 4 rail post and board and then adding some wire. If I add wire, it needs to be something that can get by with a lot less tension and will be safe for the horses, though it's not meant to contain them. Field fence is thus out. I could try 3' no climb... I suppose dogs could get through if they were serious, but I don't expect my dogs to need a serious barrier. What about chicken wire? If I set up a shorter no-climb so that it ended lapped with a board, would that make problems? Would welded wire do for this application?

    This field can get pretty wet, so too much tension will make the posts move unless they are braced. Also fun is that one end ends in the blackberry hedge, so getting in there to install a fully braced end will involve a lot of whacking. If I have to brace it, I'll go with my favorite fence.

    I like the idea of staying consistent with my other fencing, but that may not be right for this section.
    If you are allergic to a thing, it is best not to put that thing in your mouth, particularly if the thing is cats. - Lemony Snicket

  • #2
    How long of a run are you looking at?


    • Original Poster

      Something like 50' and 30' in one section with a corner between them, and then another 20' on the other side of the garage. (Space for gates already subtracted from these runs.)
      If you are allergic to a thing, it is best not to put that thing in your mouth, particularly if the thing is cats. - Lemony Snicket


      • #4
        I used wood posts with 4' no climb wire for my dog fencing. I cemented corners. It pulls well & stays tight. Since I don't turn horses out there I don't use a top rail. Makes the fence a little less obtrusive. We did brace the corners by just running one of the round posts diagonally from corner post to next post. The wire rolls in our area come as either 100' or 200'.

        We ran the fence really close to the ground so the dogs can't get out. I just use the extended round-up spray along the fenceline every 2 months during the summer so I don't have to weedeat.
        Oh, well, clearly you're not thoroughly indoctrinated to COTH yet, because finger pointing and drawing conclusions are the cornerstones of this great online community. (Tidy Rabbit)


        • #5
          If you don't mind the looks of it, you could use chain link panels that connect to each other and won't need corners or hardly anything to hold the longer stretches up.
          They will make those for you any height or width you want them.
          By the time you pay for materials and put something up, the cost will be comparable and you can move them if you so choose, change your mind, move.

          These are 16'x6' and are all around the yard, keeping horses out and dogs safely in.
          No corner posts needed, they connect to each other:



          • Original Poster

            I definitely want it to have the feel of horse fence, because it is on the front of the property.
            If you are allergic to a thing, it is best not to put that thing in your mouth, particularly if the thing is cats. - Lemony Snicket


            • #7
              When we needed a quick solution for a small turnout, we used 2"x4" welded wire with hot wire on extenders top and bottom to prevent rubbing and reaching over. I would never use welded wire without hot wire, but with it, it works great and requires no stretching. After 5 years it is straight, tight, keeps horses safely inside and looks good. We used wooden posts with t-posts in between.

              You could use a wooden top rail if it doesn't clash too horribly with the rest.

              If you were to use chain link, I would, once again, add hot wire to prevent rubbing and pinched eyelids.
              Last edited by susanne; Apr. 14, 2011, 05:21 PM.
              They're not miniatures, they're concentrates.

              Born tongue-in-cheek and foot-in-mouth


              • #8
                RE: extended round-up spray

                SonnysMom: Do you use this where the horses are fenced in? I would love to not have to brush mow my fencelines (100 acres).



                • #9

                  What I neant to say was welded wire. It is less expensice, holds its shape, and is easier for short runs, as it can be cut without "hemming." However, you must keep the horses off it, as they can vreak the welds

                  Headed back to change my original post...
                  They're not miniatures, they're concentrates.

                  Born tongue-in-cheek and foot-in-mouth