When I first started working for The Chronicle of the Horse, I knew there would be a lot of travel involved. But I never dreamed then that one of my destinations would be Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. And when the assignment became mine, I was a little bit trepidacious. I didn’t know quite exactly where Kuala Lumpur (commonly referred to as KL) was, much less anything about it. Well, here I am, and I’ve learned a lot about the place on my wanderings when not at the horse show.
The country of Malaysia, and the city of Kuala Lumpur are dynamic, fascinating places. You may think that the United States is a melting pot, but it’s got nothing on Malaysia. Here, different ethnicities, religions and culture coexist in a wonderfully colorful patchwork. A walk through downtown Kuala Lumpur is a delicious assault on all the senses, with spicy tastes, aromatic smells, bright colors, and a different experience around every corner.
The country of Malaysia is actually divided into two sections. Peninsular Malaysia, or Western Malaysia, is located just south of Thailand, with Singapore to its south, on the tip of the peninsula. This peninsula lies just across the Straits of Malacca from mainland Indonesia. And eastern Malaysia, which consists of the states of Sarawak and Sabah, lies just north of Indonesia on Borneo island, across the South China Sea. While peninsular Malaysia is growing evermore industrialized and modern, Malaysian Borneo is predominantly indigenous peoples.
Malaysia has a lot to offer the traveler, from fascinating multi-cultural experiences in the cities, to a glimpse into traditional ways of life in rural villages, which frequently seem untouched by time and progress—other than their satellite dishes! Pristine beaches, and tropical forests on the highlands in the center of the country make Malaysia a popular destination for many Asian and European travelers.
The majority of the 22.7 million citizens live on peninsular Malaysia, with two million living in the capitol of Kuala Lumpur. Native Malay people make up the majority of that population, but there are also large percentages of Chinese and Indians. While there were violent interracial riots in 1969, now the three ethnic groups—and others–primarily coexist harmoniously and peacefully. And while the official religion of Malaysia is Islam, and Muslims are many, religious freedom is a priority for the Malays. Many of the Chinese practice Taoism or Buddhism, while the Indians practice Hinduism.
While the preferred language for conversation is Malay (Behasu Melayu), the vast majority of citizens are very fluent in English. Most signs include an English translation, and half the daily newspapers are in English. It’s not hard to make your way around and communicate in English here.
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The amalgation of the three cultures make a stimulating and unique atmosphere. It pervades the food, the clothes, and the architecture. Restaurants serve an array of traditional cuisine from each, such as curry, Chinese fare, and traditional Malay food, such as satay, marinated meat grilled and served with peanut sauce dip. Fresh and aromatic ingredients are the norm, with coconut, chile, and lemongrass as common flavors. Street vendors hawk fresh fruit, cubed and served in plastic baggies. And while McDonalds, KFC, and Burger King have definitely taken a hold in the markets, the traditional cafeteria-style restaurant on the street corner, open and casual, is still the preferred choice for many Malay.
Traveling around Kuala Lumpur is convenient, if not quick. Traffic in the city and suburbs is horrific, and many Malay avoid it by riding motorbikes, which dart in and out of moving traffic. And the commuter train system is extensive and inexpensive, though fitting onto the train cars is sometimes an issue!
The Petronas Towers, the tallest twin towers in the world, are the trademark of Kuala Lumpur, crowning the skyline. But they’re shorter than the 421-meter tall KL Tower, which towers over the city. Their modernity contrasts with the more traditional architecture of the city, which include the Moorish styled railway station, and the various historical mosques. In the city center is the KL Lake Gardens, where the butterfly park, the deer park, bird park, and orchid and hibiscus gardens provide a peaceful green haven full of colorful native flora and fauna.
Shopping seems to be the national pastime, as markets and modern malls abound. There’s even the biggest Borders bookstore in the world, and an IKEA furniture store. In downtown Kuala Lumpur, the Central Market offers a shopping haven for tourists, with local crafts such as woodworking and batik, and souvenirs. Meanwhile, the crazy atmosphere of Chinatown has a street lined with open stalls. Vendors aggressively hawk their wares, which include the ubiquitous knock-off Coach, Gucci and Yves St. Laurent purses and wallets and watches. Pirated DVDs and CDs are also a popular product. It’s hard to walk down the street without being drawn in—the vendors eagerly call out to invite you in and get “the best deal.” Negotiating and haggling are part of the joy of shopping in Malaysia—never pay the tagged price without making an offer.
Above all, the Malay people are open, pleasant and welcoming. Kuala Lumpur is an expanding city, with new apartment complexes being built at a rapid pace. It’s a busy city, which manages to blend the charm of its traditional heritage with the rapid industrialization that’s overtaking its economy.
