That first trip was in 1958, with Bert de Nemethy and, at that time, his new team of Bill Steinkraus, Frank Chapot, Hugh Wiley and me. We were headed on a four-month summer tour of the European show circuit. Aachen was to be our second show.

Bert liked Germany. He’d lived there and spoke perfect German, so he decided in his usual organized manner that we would live in Aachen prior to the tour. We probably spent six weeks there.

I remember so well arriving at the little Lousberg Hotel (it’s still there). Aachen was still partly rubble. It had been so devastated during World War II, which had ended only 13 years before. The hotel in those days bordered a park on the edge of town. Following the road a mile or two out of town to the horse show was really in the country. Of course, it’s all built up now, and the show grounds are in a suburban industrial complex. One couldn’t recognize the surroundings from the early days.

The show complex itself is large (I thought it was intimidating that first year), but not as large as one might think. It’s just that every square inch is used so perfectly to its capacity.

Aachen has always been and continues to be the best horse show in the world. The beautiful and historic city of Aachen is perfectly situated where Germany, Belgium and Holland all come together. Charlemagne was crowned here in 800 A.D., there is a world-famous cathedral, and Aachen, due to its location, has been in the path of many wars.

Whenever I return, there are always improvements, especially now that Aachen will be hosting the World Equestrian Games in 2006. Yes, Aachen does deserve the WEG. But I hope Kentucky will get it the next time.

One notices the stabling changes, such as the landscaping and new winding paths bordered by hedges. New and better bleachers are constantly added to the main arena. The driving field now can double as a magnificent second jumping ring. The collecting ring leading up to the in-gate has tripled in size and is perfectly manicured. A tree-shaded lane runs through the big warm-up field, where they’ve added a dry ditch and an open water. The VIP tents just seem to get bigger and better and are situated so one can eat lunch, have a drink, and watch the horses warm-up. Every detail concerning the horse show is thought out. It’s just so efficient.

But I liked the coziness of the old dressage set-up. The warm-up rings were near the barns, and a huge hedge and tall wooden fence separated the world from the competition arena. The understatement of the dressage complex was such an enormous contradiction to the importance of the dressage show. I just loved it.

The new dressage stadium is truly magnificent’modern, airy and big. It reportedly cost millions of dollars, but I must admit that I become a bit nostalgic and sad to see my horses warming up and hacking in the sand patch that used to be the hallowed hall of fame of the dressage world.

We had a very good jumping team here this year: Clare Bronfman and Peter Wylde, both of whom are based in Europe; Laura Kraut and Lauren Hough, who both flew with their horses over from Calgary; and Chris Kappler, who’d competed in Wiesbaden, Germany, the week before. They all ride beautifully and have lovely horses.

It’s hard to describe today the standard of a show like this. It’s not like it was in my day, when the “bad” was very bad and the “good” was very good. There is, actually, no bad anymore. There are just so many wonderful horses and riders today at events like this.

Aachen is still Aachen, as far as the fences and courses go. Frank Rothenberger has picked up the reins from Arno Gego as course designer, and he seems to be following Arno’s theme and feel for the ring. The fences have plenty of color and can still be very spooky. And there are all the natural fences’the two big waters, the table bank, the lake, the different hedges, the grob, the permanent walls. The natural fences were here in my day, although some have been modified or taken out all together.

Imagine having six Palm Beach Sunday grand prix events in one week. That’s what it’s like showing at Aachen. The perfect string of horses would be to have two top grand prix horses and a super speed horse’a tall order to fill for anybody.

Thursday turned out to be a very, very good day for the Americans. The Nordrhein-Westfalen Preis is an old, traditional, most prestigious grand prix here in Aachen. It’s a class with two rounds and a jump-off, which you don’t see often anymore in the United States. But the Germans like to jump a lot. It’s always suited their strong, scopey horses.

Laura, riding Allegiance, gave a riding lesson, having three clear rounds and the fastest time. Laura has developed the seasoning now, along with her natural talent, to be considered a world-class competitor.

This was really a big win for us. Chris and Peter were also two of the original 15 first-round clears and ended up with low ribbons.

Our showing in the Nations Cup Friday was certainly respectable. We tied the very strong German team for third behind the Irish (who won again!) and the Belgians. We had a four-fault day, except for Chris and Royal Kaliber, who had one of the only two double-clear rounds.

I am always surprised, actually, at how well we do abroad since we don’t have a regular international program for our elite riders. These other countries have such programs in place, starting with the junior riders and all the way up to the Olympic level. If we could ever get that going again, much like Bert de Nemethy did, we’d be a force to be reckoned with in international show jumping.

The speed derby at Aachen jumps natural obstacles, plus a gallop through the lake. It’s run under table C rules (4 seconds per knockdown). Chris, on Tango, had one of those flawless rounds you dream about to take the win in the prestigious speed event. And Clare ended up sixth.

On Sunday, they offer the “last chance” speed class (which I won 45 years ago!) and the Grand Prix of Aachen (which I won 43 years ago!) How time goes by! It seems like yesterday.

This grand prix is the most highly sought-after non-championships prize in the world. Again it is a two-round competition (the top 18 horses jump the second round, followed by a jump-off). The fences are enormous, careful and technical. It’s got it all.

Laura ended up eighth with Anthem, and Chris, who made the five-horse jump-off, ended up fourth.

All in all, the team had an outstanding performance at this biggest and best of show in the world. It showed that we still have it!

The closing ceremonies must never be missed at Aachen, no matter how many times one goes to the show. To see the parade of nations, hear all the anthems, and see 60,000 devoted fans waving their white handkerchiefs is a show in itself. I would recommend Aachen for any horse enthusiast, not only as a spectacle, but also as a learning experience.

(For more coverage of Aachen, turn to the Horse Show, Dressage and Driving sections.)