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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan. 26, 2013
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    342

    Default Removable stall walls

    Anyone build removable stall walls? I have standard 12x12 stalls but would like to open one up for foaling into a 12x24. Right now I'm taking the old wall down but when I replace it I would like to do so with something that is able to go in and out as needed. Anyone have any designs they would like to share.



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov. 1, 2007
    Location
    Watertown TN
    Posts
    422

    Default

    We built all our dividers with the option of being able to take them down. SO went to a metal supply store and had these u type channels cut the heigth of the stall wall (unsure of what you really call them). We then screwed the channels to the walls and slid the boards down in the channels. So to remove the stall walls, you have to slide each board up the top, out of the channel. May not be the best or fastest method, but worked for us. Hope this helps.
    To ride a horse is to borrow freedom.



  3. #3
    Join Date
    May. 16, 2005
    Location
    Elmwood, Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,368

    Default

    Be careful with 12' long boards and U channels. If the boards
    bow (say, from a kick), they can pop out of the channel which
    could result in a real mess. Either secure the ends of the
    boards within the channel (perhaps with screws or bolts) or
    put a brace in the middle of the 12' span for more rigidity.
    Robin from Dancing Horse Hill
    Elmwood, Wisconsin



  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr. 21, 2010
    Posts
    2,445

    Default

    We did a similar thing with angle iron. 2 pieces, to make a channel. Slide boards in and out. I don't have kickers so it has not been an issue.



  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar. 14, 2007
    Posts
    2,103

    Default

    Snowfox: my favorite idea on this came from another COTHer...Tasia's barn.
    here is a thread where I was trying to find/remember the idea, and this should show all her photos/input:
    http://www.chronofhorse.com/forum/sh...ing+stall+wall

    actually, Tasia, if you're reading along on this, I'm in the midst of getting this priced/planned right now. I think? I can price the hardware track/hangers, etc easily enough...but can you share? / recall ? any suggestions for the 'pins' your builder used? (Also, if you DO have a great idea for the track/rollers/hardware as far as a supplier, please add!) TIA
    Last edited by ayrabz; Mar. 29, 2013 at 11:53 AM. Reason: added comment
    ayrabz
    "Indecision may or may not be my problem"
    --Jimmy Buffett



  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov. 1, 2007
    Location
    Watertown TN
    Posts
    422

    Default

    We don't have kickers either but the boards did begin to warp on us (though it may depend on what kind you use). So we added a brace in the middle on each side to keep it straight and tidy.
    To ride a horse is to borrow freedom.



  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan. 26, 2013
    Posts
    342

    Default

    Good idea, I imagine you could put a removable post (like in a horse trailer) 6 feet in to secure the boards to as well. So unscrew from post, slip out of brackets, and remove post. Perfect.


    1 members found this post helpful.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul. 17, 2009
    Location
    south eastern US
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    2,519

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by equislover View Post
    We built all our dividers with the option of being able to take them down. SO went to a metal supply store and had these u type channels cut the heigth of the stall wall (unsure of what you really call them). We then screwed the channels to the walls and slid the boards down in the channels. So to remove the stall walls, you have to slide each board up the top, out of the channel. May not be the best or fastest method, but worked for us. Hope this helps.
    My whole barn is built this way. I know someone who had a horse die inside their barn. They had to practically tear the barn apart to get him out it really made an impression on me so when I built my barn I made sure every wall was easily removable.
    "My biggest fear is that when I die my husband is going to try to sell all my horses and tack for what I told him they cost."



  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct. 2, 2012
    Location
    In the wilds of Northern Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    357

    Default

    One of the barns where I ride has stall dividers on hinges so each side of the barn can either have two stalls or one double stall. It just swings flat against the back wall and is secured there with a latch.



  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar. 14, 2007
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    2,103

    Default

    yes, most of the 'moving' walls I've seen are on hinges, and you have only the option of swinging it back to the back wall....which is why I found Tasia's so unique....I am looking at her design, so that: I can 'dock' the center wall at either: full open to one large stall (12x24) or two stalls 12x 12 or even (!) a 1/4 mini stall and a larger full horse stall ! with her design...there are choices without removing or 'swinging' the entire wall to the back....
    ayrabz
    "Indecision may or may not be my problem"
    --Jimmy Buffett



  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan. 4, 2007
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    40,098

    Default

    Our stalls are portable, so we can unpin any one side and make one of two, or take a front off and make it an open shed into their runs.

    Doesn't work if the stalls are permanent, as part of the framing.



  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep. 7, 2009
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    16,813

    Default

    I have two stalls with a divider...it's two wood channels and 2x6 boards in the channels. We had to cap the top boards and nail them in when my OTTBs decided to disassemble the wall a couple of years ago
    "We can judge the heart of a man by his treatment of animals." ~Immanuel Kant



  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul. 19, 2010
    Location
    Gum Tree PA
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    1,066

    Default

    Re: flexing. If using a 2X8 or smaller I would tend to agree especially if using thin channel iron like 1 inch or less. But even at 1 inch I don’t think a 2X10 or better 2X12 X12 will flex enough to slip out of a 1 inch wide channel. But there is always the exception. But unless the horse has a spas attack I don’t think it would take the entire wall down. If you use 2X8 tongue and grove you should have no worries. Channel iron has a more finished look but two 2X4s will work just as good and you are working with a 1 ½ inch grove to slip the boards into. And far cheaper. But if in doubt just screw a 2X4 to the center or some strapping steel that can be bought at any Home Depot. The swing wall works great but IMO unless it is going to be used on a regular bases it will require a lot more time and effort along with fabrication cost and expertise. It’s one of those “do the ends justify the means”.
    If it the stall doesn’t require a “blind wall” in other words when used as 2 stalls can the horses next to each other get along without being blocked off. If so just buy a 12’ wide porta-paddock panel put eye screws on either side of the stall and attach the panel. Far less work, easily removed and put back in, less work and material costs to install.
    If you go with “slip” boards don’t use pressure treated IME they will warp if not secured every 24 or so inches. If you do a center brace is an absolute. IMO



  14. #14
    Join Date
    May. 25, 2005
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    best place so far
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    1,178

    Default

    FYI...I have my u-channels set into the walls so they are flush with the wall. I had a mare roll in her double stall and slice open her leg on the edge of one of those metal u-channels...so now all mine are set flush!

    I also have a metal brace strip that is placed vertically and I screw into the boards to stabilize the middle when the wall is in place (prevents bowing or kicking out of the boards)
    Read about my time at the Hannoveraner Verband Breeders Courses:
    http://blumefarm.com/hannoveranercourse2011.html
    http://blumefarm.com/hannoveranercourse2012.html


    1 members found this post helpful.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan. 26, 2013
    Posts
    342

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Blume Farm View Post
    FYI...I have my u-channels set into the walls so they are flush with the wall. I had a mare roll in her double stall and slice open her leg on the edge of one of those metal u-channels...so now all mine are set flush!

    I also have a metal brace strip that is placed vertically and I screw into the boards to stabilize the middle when the wall is in place (prevents bowing or kicking out of the boards)
    That thought already crossed my mind.



  16. #16
    Join Date
    Nov. 6, 2002
    Location
    Henrico, NC 36 30'50.49" N 77 50'17.47" W
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    Default

    I went the really simple way. I looked at channels and hinges, but decided to just put the boards up with lag screws and an airwrench. The removable walls are mostly 2x10s with 3/4" plywood screwed to the middle of the wall to keep the boards together.

    Boards on the aisleway are on the aisleway side of the posts, so interior partitions are just fastened to the sides of the posts.

    We just removed them in the spring when foaling time was here, using the air wrench and impact driver, piece by piece. It only took maybe 15 minutes. I'm pretty sure the total time spent dissassembling them and putting them back up, even over some number of years, was less than if I had used that time to fabricate some sort of hinge system, and maybe have to move bedding in the stalls each time.



  17. #17
    Join Date
    Mar. 14, 2007
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    2,103

    Default

    yes, by all means, if all you want is to have EITHER one large stall for a good long period, or two stalls for a good long period....doing/undoing them with screws is going the be the best ticket. I had my builder put my dividing wall in like that, and have that option.
    MY scenario is thus: I only have 'two' stalls. They're 'not' ideal in size....I'd say once lined in the wood, came out more to 9 3/4s x 11. So......I see Tasia's idea as so ideal for this scenario.....pull the pins and lock that wall in place at 'any' location for 'any' option. Full stall for one horse. Two stalls for two horses. Or as mentioned (and a big possibility for me) one 1/4 stall for a mini friend and a 3/4 stall for the one full sized horse! Only one installation of hardware.....which could have 'docking' locations of holes drilled to accept the wall wherever you choose to set it! (keep in mind, this also works in my specific scenario because my mats are interlocking and continuous in these two stalls , one exterior wall to the opposite one. )
    ayrabz
    "Indecision may or may not be my problem"
    --Jimmy Buffett



  18. #18
    Join Date
    Aug. 25, 2007
    Posts
    8,490

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by equislover View Post
    We built all our dividers with the option of being able to take them down. SO went to a metal supply store and had these u type channels cut the heigth of the stall wall (unsure of what you really call them). We then screwed the channels to the walls and slid the boards down in the channels. So to remove the stall walls, you have to slide each board up the top, out of the channel. May not be the best or fastest method, but worked for us. Hope this helps.
    This works quite well for us.

    We are using sawmill 2" x 6" x 12'. These actually measure a bit more than 2" so have a bit more "substance" to them. If you're using finish lumber from Home Depot or 84 Lumber they are smaller and less substantial.

    We've not had a "bowing" issue. If we did I'd likely add a metal stiffener on both sides using nut and bolt attachments.

    G.
    Mangalarga Marchador: Uma Raça, Uma Paixão



  19. #19
    Join Date
    May. 4, 2003
    Location
    Canada
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    14,003

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    Can you imagine how my friend felt when she went into the stall in the morning to see her horse with his leg held up - sandwiched between the boards that had sprung when he kicked out at them.
    Proud member of People Who Hate to Kill Wildlife clique



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