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  1. #1
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    Question Fencing - Ramm vs. Centaur?

    We are replacing all of our fencing this summer. Considering a combination of flex rail on top and 3 coated wires underneath, like the one pictured here
    http://www.rammfence.com/fence/coated-wire-fence May do the coated wire that has electric in it.

    Ramm and Centaur both sell a similar flex rail and coated wire. Any recommendations for one brand over the other?

    Anyone have this set up already? Pros & cons?

    Thanks.
    Oh my god - she's gone and got the eventing bug! I will send you some antibiotics! Take the entire bottle and do two hunter shows and it will pass!



  2. #2
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    Jan. 21, 2010
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    I don't know about Centaur, but I very recently put up over 1000' of Ramm fencing by myself (with hubby's help, and a pro dug/set the posts) and I loved it and their company. It's super easy, and totally worth it, and my rep was fantastic.

    I went for a three-board flex-rail fence instead of what you are suggesting, because in my experience, if a horse is going to get caught up in fencing, it's going to be from either kicking it or sliding into it, both of which will involve the bottom boards. So I don't see a point to have only the top board flex-fence...



  3. #3
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    Thanks. Nice to hear you had a good experience with Ramm.
    I'd like to put up 3 or 4 flex rails but I'm already estimating 10-12k with this set up. Would rather not make it 20k. Im also having posts driven.
    Last edited by Sparky Boy; Feb. 1, 2013 at 09:42 AM.
    Oh my god - she's gone and got the eventing bug! I will send you some antibiotics! Take the entire bottle and do two hunter shows and it will pass!



  4. #4
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    Well, in all honesty, hands down the priciest part for me was paying someone to set the posts. That was about 3X more expensive than the fencing itself. And I would've done it myself to save the money if I wasn't on a time crunch to get the fencing up and my husband didn't live 1000 miles away while he finishes up a residency.


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  5. #5
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    We have tried to set our own posts in the past, so we know how badly we suck at it. We have no choice but to let the pros do it. We will attach all the fencing ourselves.
    Oh my god - she's gone and got the eventing bug! I will send you some antibiotics! Take the entire bottle and do two hunter shows and it will pass!



  6. #6
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    Apr. 11, 2006
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    Collingwood,ON
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    The place where I board my dressage horse has this exact set-up from Centaur. I think it is an attractive looking setup, however I have had horses hook their leg over the bottom line of coated wire (not electrified) when trying to strike at a horse on the other side of the fence (thankfully no injuries). In my experience horses don't really respect this type of fence much and they lean on it and play near it, resulting in the flex rail getting stretched out. I think you really need to at least put one line of hot wire along the top to keep the horse's off the fence.


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  7. #7
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    I should add that I plan to put a 12' lane between the only shared fenceline to discourage playing over the fence.
    Oh my god - she's gone and got the eventing bug! I will send you some antibiotics! Take the entire bottle and do two hunter shows and it will pass!



  8. #8
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    Sep. 13, 2002
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    Pacific Northwest
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    I have 3 rails of Centaur HTP and have been happy with it. Previous barn I boarded at had 4 or 5 strands of the white lightning (centaur's coated wire) and it was great...the "safe" paddocks to put young and stupid horses in were those! They had 2 or 3 strands of it hot, shared fence lines between paddocks, and never a problem.

    If she sees this, or you look thru old posts, MistyBlue has something similar to what you are describing. One top "rail" and then lower strands of coated wire. Hers is from Ramm, I believe. I know there are photos somewhere here on COTH as i have admired them! I really think you can't go wrong with either company.


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  9. #9
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    Aug. 2, 2004
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    Oooo maybe MistyBlue will post.

    I've been at a barn before with Centaur, back when it was a new product. The problems we had was that horses did lean through to graze, esp the ponies. Also, there were places were the plasticy stuff had worn off and the wire was exposed. And the housing around the tightening brackets made handy little homes for yellow jackets, which you don't realize until you go to tighten a fence .

    Where I board now has Centuar, with the top and bottom hot. I love it, so safe and the horses are all in great shape. Rory did slice his lip open this past summer somehow, which I would think would have been on one of the tightening brackets, but since I never found any sign of hair or skin ANYWHERE, and knowing Rory, he probably just stepped on his face.
    COTH's official mini-donk enabler

    "I am all for reaching out, but in some situations it needs to be done with a rolled up news paper." Alagirl


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  10. #10
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    Jul. 14, 2000
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    Last year hubba and I added two paddocks and used Centaur coated electric wire fencing for it. In fact I bought all the supplies from COTH's Basque Mom down in TX. She knows her product and made sure I had all the little extras I needed for connections, wrap around and so forth. It installed very nicely and has held up just fine. We went with black because if the white isn't put up perfectly every little flaw or leaning will show. I will add that we only use the paddocks for daytime turnout so night time fence visibility for the horses was not a concern and allowed us to use black with no special markers, etc.



  11. #11
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    Jan. 17, 2012
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    I have had Ramm fencing for 8 years and love it. My set up is what you describe - a top rail of 5 inch Flex and 4 coated wires beneath. The top coated wire is electric. I have never had one issue with it and actually put up more recently to surround my new barn and for cross fencing. The four horses (including youngsters) and two donkeys respect the fencing completely. The combination of the flex and the coated wire is economical and very safe.


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  12. #12
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    Since MistyBlue hasn't posted about hers here, I went back and found the thread with pictures. http://www.chronofhorse.com/forum/sh...highlight=Ramm. Photo links still work.


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  13. #13
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    Nov. 4, 2003
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    Sanger, TX, USA
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    Jenners, the old barrel tensioners (for tightening, attach to the post which replaced the original tensing system) did have two big drop down pins which I always thought could be a problem. At least they attached to the post and more out of the way than the in-line barrel type tensioners used by brand x. The barrel tensioners now eliminated the drop down pins....yay!

    FYI, Ramm is currently selling two rails. The JWI (made by John Wall Inc) has been their supplier for many years. Apparently have contracted with another company (in Alabama, same as Centaur) to make their rail. Up til now, Centaur
    and JWI were the only two makers of flexible rail that we know of.

    The combo you are considering is fairly popular. Have seen it in person several times and liked the looks.

    One of my favorite things about Centaur and/or CenFlex is the brackets...steel shaft with a very heavy polymer coating, recessed holes for the screws and rounded edges. Less scrapes and cuts if they go running along the fence line.



  14. #14
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    Jan. 12, 2003
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    New York
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    I have the 3 rail Centaur fencing and love it! Easy to install as my father and I did it ourselves. I have the hotrail on top and bottom and plan rail in the middle. If you want you can see pics on my FB page Kiwayu Farm.
    Kristen

    Kiwayu & Figiso Pictures:
    http://community.webshots.com/user/kiwayu



  15. #15
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    How does this combination do on hilly terrain? We have one pasture that is hilly in the back. Good news is, we can't see it well from the barn or house I plan on getting brown or black, whichever matches the creosote posts best.

    I see the ones with on flex rail and 4 coated below, but I feel like the lowest coated rail is too low. Any thoughts?

    How would this fence set up do with foals? Don't have any now but may have one in the future.
    Oh my god - she's gone and got the eventing bug! I will send you some antibiotics! Take the entire bottle and do two hunter shows and it will pass!



  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparky Boy View Post
    How does this combination do on hilly terrain? We have one pasture that is hilly in the back. Good news is, we can't see it well from the barn or house I plan on getting brown or black, whichever matches the creosote posts best.
    We are on the side of a hill, so part of what steered us to using the Centaur rails was how much better it was for dealing with varying terrain compared to our other options under consideration at the time (SO really liked the looks of the tinker toy like wood fencing, but that is impossible to make look good on up down terrain like ours). I used the three rails of the wide stuff, but think the same argument would apply to the top rail/coated wire combo. I seem to remember that Centaur has some info on how to put it up on varying terrain in the manual -- might check that out on their website.



  17. #17
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    As for as the four wire too low, just put at the spot you want and then figure out the spacing from their to the top rail. There's nothing etched in stone they have to be x amount of inches apart. Think 12-14 inches is common from ground to bottom rail or wire. We had six strands in Colorado per dealer's recommendation
    and installers put the bottom wire about 6 inches off the ground. Horses were
    continually pulling a front shoe...we took a portion of the bottom wire down. Now that we have the bottom rail hire, not a problem with pulling shoes. You can always go a tad higher with your posts also.

    If you are thinking of having a foal, you might want to electrify the lower strands while they are small and curious. You can install cutoff switches to your system
    and electrify only certain areas as needed.



  18. #18
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    That's interesting, never heard of cut-off switches for the electric. I'm curious, what would be the point of them or rather, what situation would call for them?

    I guess it would also depend on how much of the post is out of the ground/how tall they are. I haven't figured out who's doing our posts yet or how tall the creosote posts normally are.

    I think I'd prefer at least 12" from the ground.
    Oh my god - she's gone and got the eventing bug! I will send you some antibiotics! Take the entire bottle and do two hunter shows and it will pass!



  19. #19
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    Nov. 4, 2003
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    Posts are normally set to 54 inches above ground (4.5 feet). Posts are normally
    8 feet long. If you want your rail at 54 inches, then the post needs to be a few
    inches higher to compensate for the space the brackets take up. Some folks go
    with 5 feet high. Many areas have regulations that stallions have 6 foot high fencing.

    Cut off switches could be used when snow is covering the bottom wire or two.Or the weeds get too high and pulling power from the bottom strands and you don't have time to weed whack. Cut the power off to that line until you have an opportunity to whack the vegetation touching the line.
    Or one rotates pastures--just switch off the electric to the unused one. Or after
    the foals grow and get respect for a fence, they can be switched off until needed
    the next time. I think the basic switch is about $9 or so. You can get all fancy
    with remotes for the charges and the switches if inclined.



  20. #20
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    That's great information Julie, too bad you aren't closer to me
    Oh my god - she's gone and got the eventing bug! I will send you some antibiotics! Take the entire bottle and do two hunter shows and it will pass!



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