I'm 5'7" but exactly the same, size-wise. I like the 16R Grand Prixes, but I actually fit a 10 in the Tailored Sportsman coats really well—I'd say that's my new favorite coat, fit-wise. My 10R RJ Classics is OK too, but not as well-fitting as the others.
This is me too. I have to just find a coat that fits the shoulders and tailor everything else. I have yet to find a coat that fits me well off the shelf. DAMN HULK SHOULDERS. I have to get a 16R in nearly all coats, and also wear a size 6 street clothes - sometimes a 4 in skirts.
I too have broad shoulders and a small waist. I tried on Ariat's Triumph Show Coat it fit like a dream not to mention comfortable. If I hadn't had so many issues with their customer service over the years I definelty would have gotten it.
What's your favorite soft shell? I've tried a few, just haven't pulled the trigger yet.
Definitely the RJ Classics, go up a size or maybe 2 depending on how you like the fit. I buy a regular length one and have the arms lengthened. The Grand Prix soft shell is nice but a little more boxy in the waist area. RJ has a nice shape...embrace the broad shoulders! When we do find a coat that works...it sure does look nice! :-)
I'd like to try the Ariat Triumph too as another poster has mentioned fit well. The Marigold coats are great but I thought their soft shell was cut realllllly small.
When I was younger and a working student, I too had linebacker/strong safety shoulders. I think my favorite coat at the time was a Grand Prix that I found for an incredible deal ($40) and then took to Men's Wearhouse where they did a great job tailoring it for $25.
I had a few RJs as well but I think the tailored Grand Prix fit best.
I'm going to take the road of Stacy and Clinton (What Not to Wear) and suggest you buy what fits your shoulders really well, and have the rest tailored to fit. Really, it is not super expensive compared to a totally custom coat. Plus when it is tailored, you WILL have a custom fitted coat and I bet you would look awesome!
Just an idea.
“Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.”
¯ Oscar Wilde