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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar. 14, 2007
    Posts
    2,330

    Default gates...hinges....repairs

    well..right now, have at least two of my 14 ft gates not 'meeting' their latches. Fencer is MIA. So...I need to understand/evaluate my repair/adjustment options.
    ONE gate I know is a warped post issue...and also a tension/lean issue from the Ramm fencing....it just keeps gaining in space between gate latch and gate. This particular post is also the first/wrapped/electricity rod under with not only the 3 'rails' of ramm fencing, but also the top coated elec. wire and the bottom coated elec. wire....so, I REALLY don't want to have to replace/remove. So. I'm guessing I have: some option in replacing hinges / improving them to the larger thru the post types....and also? possibly adding a 2x4 pressure treated at post latch location. What I'm curious in your opinions : WHAT (regardless of post/side of gate be it : latch side or hinge side) is the maximum space between gate and post YOU feel is reasonable /safe for horses?----this will really help me in knowing how I can adjust or if I can at ALL vs. replaceing! thanks.....
    ayrabz
    "Indecision may or may not be my problem"
    --Jimmy Buffett



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr. 2, 2011
    Posts
    1,040

    Default

    1" narrower than our smallest hoof...

    I have had to add a fence board to several of our latch posts as things shrink over time. A couple of our hinge sides have a board ripped down to 2 or 3" and attached vertically to the hinges with U bolts. That board runs from just above the ground to just below the top of the post.



  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar. 14, 2007
    Posts
    2,330

    Default

    airhorse: thanks so much!
    so...are you saying that: to take up the gap, you: took off the hinges, added wood on that side, and then re drilled the hinges thru the new added wood, and that worked well for you vs. adding it on the latch side? (oh, and what? do you mean by ripped? as in : full 2x4 but then angle down the sides so its smaller and better fitting to the post? (duh...I'm so challenged.......sorry!)
    ayrabz
    "Indecision may or may not be my problem"
    --Jimmy Buffett



  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr. 2, 2011
    Posts
    1,040

    Default

    Cut down fence boards to 2 or 3" and then use U bolts to attach them to the hinges. Think of a skinny fence board running up and down facing the same way as the large boards. Not having the hinges drilled through it, but attached to the hinges. The only downside is it can limit how far open the gate opens in one direction.

    It is much easier just to add a fence board to the post on the latch side.



  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov. 6, 2002
    Location
    Henrico, NC 36 30'50.49" N 77 50'17.47" W
    Posts
    5,887

    Default

    Attach a length of 4x4 for the latch end of the gate to sit on in the latched postition. It's easiest to install it when the gate posts are installed. If you don't want the gate to sag over time, this support block needs to be installed securely enough that it can't drop. Gates maybe no wider than 5' can be unsupported, but I've never seen any kind of wide gate that would work with a slam-latch over years. Even our gates with the slam-latch still have support blocks. If the posts are installed strongly, and the gate well crossbraced, it takes very little effort to ease the gate onto the support block while it's being closed-still a one hand operation


    Gate posts are best concreted in a "trench" that runs along with the fence to give extra resistance to the post leaning out of plumb. It would have to push down the concrete arms to lean, making it much harder to go out of position rather than simply being in a vertical hole, whether concreted or not.

    Since the posts have already moved out of position, I wouldn't expect that they won't continue to move, left like they were originally installed.

    There was some commercial on TV last night with Tommy Lee Jones leaning on an open horse pasture gate. Pam said something about the fence. The first things I noticed were the bolts through the gate protrubing about and inch.



  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar. 14, 2007
    Posts
    2,330

    Default

    Thanks guys. Yes, Tom, I've seen that done....problem for me now is: even if I had the 4x4 block there to rest gate on, the latch is too far away to 'close' it. I am trying to find the best way to (without pulling and replacing the post) 'add' to it safely and fill the gap and extend the latch over to the gate.
    (and this is ramm fencing...so tension, not wood rails...and 14 ft. pipe gates with 2 way lockable latches) I think I'll have to try to get some pix next time I'm down there!
    ayrabz
    "Indecision may or may not be my problem"
    --Jimmy Buffett



  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov. 6, 2002
    Location
    Henrico, NC 36 30'50.49" N 77 50'17.47" W
    Posts
    5,887

    Default

    If the fence is in tension, and the posts have already moved that much, they will continue to move some more every time the ground is wet and soft. Any temporary fix will only be temporary for who knows how much longer.



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