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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Nov. 10, 2011
    Posts
    909

    Default

    Just wanted to pop back up and let you know that I modified the stall guards.

    Instead of using the baluster connectors (which sit on the top) of the top and bottom board of wood, I drilled holes in the top and bottom boards and slid the 3/4" conduit into them. This adds a lot more stability because there is so much less wobble. Also, going up from the 1/2" aluminum pre fab balusters to the 3/4" conduit helped to add strength. I'm waiting for the paint to dry on the balusters and I'll get some pics, but so far, I'm very optimistic that these will be pretty strong. If I had a butt scratcher or a leaner, I would trim the door out in metal, but for the guys that are not destructive, I think this will work.

    Approx cost per gate
    $10 - wood frame
    $3 - stain
    $6 - corner braces
    $15 - hinges
    $6 - conduit
    $4 - aluminum paint/ primer
    $44 total.
    Took me about 2 hours to cut wood and conduit, 2 to paint/ prime.



  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug. 11, 2008
    Location
    MD
    Posts
    3,882

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fatappy View Post
    Just wanted to pop back up and let you know that I modified the stall guards.

    Instead of using the baluster connectors (which sit on the top) of the top and bottom board of wood, I drilled holes in the top and bottom boards and slid the 3/4" conduit into them. This adds a lot more stability because there is so much less wobble. Also, going up from the 1/2" aluminum pre fab balusters to the 3/4" conduit helped to add strength. I'm waiting for the paint to dry on the balusters and I'll get some pics, but so far, I'm very optimistic that these will be pretty strong. If I had a butt scratcher or a leaner, I would trim the door out in metal, but for the guys that are not destructive, I think this will work.

    Approx cost per gate
    $10 - wood frame
    $3 - stain
    $6 - corner braces
    $15 - hinges
    $6 - conduit
    $4 - aluminum paint/ primer
    $44 total.
    Took me about 2 hours to cut wood and conduit, 2 to paint/ prime.
    All of the 'bars' in my barn are the 3/4" conduit and I love it. Didn't bother painting it - it doesn't rust and looks just fine 'au natural'. Its strong and stable, and really easy to install in a number of different ways. For stall bars, just drill holes with a hole saw top and bottom and pop them in. They also make great hangers for blankets, etc. Just attach to a wood block with those little aluminum C brackets and you're good to go. Works great to put a short one of those up high on the barn walls or above stalls to hang wet blankets from the chest straps - they only need to be about 12" wide, so you can fit a lot of them down a barn aisle.
    Lowly Farm Hand with Delusions of Barn Biddieom.
    Witherun Farm
    http://witherun-farm.blogspot.com/


    1 members found this post helpful.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb. 2, 2003
    Location
    Iowa, USA
    Posts
    3,086

    Default

    assuming the conduit is galvanized steel, did you etch the surface first? Most spray paints will not adhere to a galv surface, and will start peeling.

    ETA Duh sorry. didn't read the supplies list to see "aluminum". Move along, nothing to see here.
    Last edited by HungarianHippo; Jan. 16, 2013 at 08:28 PM.
    Try to break down crushing defeats into smaller, more manageable failures. It’s also helpful every now and then to stop, take stock of your situation, and really beat yourself up about it.The Onion



  4. #24
    Join Date
    Feb. 6, 2003
    Location
    Deep South
    Posts
    15,466

    Default

    Aluminium conduit ?
    ... _. ._ .._. .._



  5. #25
    Join Date
    Nov. 10, 2011
    Posts
    909

    Default

    Ugggh.... no, the conduit was steel. I bought aluminum balusters before, and when I bought the conduit I just assumed they were aluminum too. head --> desk.

    Anyway, now I have stell bars with aluminum primer and paint on them. Fiddlesticks.


    1 members found this post helpful.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Feb. 2, 2003
    Location
    Iowa, USA
    Posts
    3,086

    Default

    you might be fine! Check the primer "ingredients" -- if it's acrylic or latex acrylic based, that works on galvanized metal also. (But if you see "alkyd", you're hosed. )
    Try to break down crushing defeats into smaller, more manageable failures. It’s also helpful every now and then to stop, take stock of your situation, and really beat yourself up about it.The Onion



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