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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb. 24, 2005
    Posts
    2,215

    Default plan for removeable stall dividers

    I need to finish out three stalls that are not stall units. The fornts have closely spaced grills over 2 x 6 tongue and groove lumber and there are sliding doors.
    The three fronts are solid and secured on solid posts and the back wall is the wall between the horse area and the shop/tackroom.

    I want safe moveable or removeable dividers especially between two of the stalls and perhaps between each of the three stalls. These are 12 feet (a full 12 feet) square stalls.

    I think the most straigtforward way may be to use the channells on each end and then something in the middle to strengthen it. Anyone have a plan or suggestions? Thanks.



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul. 28, 2004
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,951

    Default

    I have channels with 2 x 6's. The main problem was warping of the 2 x 6's, so I put a 1 x 6 up the middle on one side. Sort of defeated the point of having channels, but with just two deck screws onto each board, the 1 x 6 can be easily removed. These have lasted the 15 years or so since my barn was built.

    I recently built a run-in and used channels with 2 x 8's and I think I like those better than 2 x 6's. Also used a vertical 1 x 6.
    friend of bar.ka



  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct. 28, 2007
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    See post 29 for pics of a stall divider that folds to the back wall,
    http://www.chronofhorse.com/forum/sh...oaling%20stall
    Whoops, it slides to the side, so one side of the 24 ft stall has two dividers squished together.



  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan. 26, 2006
    Location
    Fort Worth, Texas
    Posts
    4,105

    Default

    I had 9 gauge steel plate bent by a metal shop that had a standard metal brake into a U that fit 2x milled lumber (1.75 inch thick)

    If I wanted to open a stall into the adjoining one I could just remove the 2x8 lumber.. then inset a 2 by 2 into the channel to fill the gap

    Cost back 20 plus years ago to get the channels made was $5 each ... but any metal working shop can do this


    1 members found this post helpful.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr. 2, 2008
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    1,354

    Default

    We have 2x6 tongue & groove/expanded metal permanent stall fronts and used the metal channels with the t & g for the walls between the stalls. We didn't use any additional bracing except for the framing around the windows between the stalls and they have held up great even through a 17.3 cast horse and a stall kicker.

    I wanted the option to be able to have a double stall if needed plus it is much easier to repair a damaged t&g board if you can slide it out.



  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb. 24, 2005
    Posts
    2,215

    Default

    Thanks for the responses. Tothenines and Clanter, it's great to learn that the 2 x 8's work better than the 2 x 6's. I wondered about using a metal channel as opposed to one made with wood but thought that might pose a hazard - you have a good solution with the 2 x 2. That's great.
    chall, I had seen that a long time ago. I loved it but didn't think it would work for me as my other stalls are stall units. However, with the solid nature of this set of three stalls, I could use that design. I see by the thread and photos how it is constructed at the top. Do you know how the bottom is secured? It's a do it yourself project so I have to be able to figure it out. It is very nice.
    Thanks all.



  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb. 24, 2005
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    Default

    Thanks KnKSnowman - I was thinking I needed additional bracing. Maybe it's the tongue and groove design that provides enough stability.



  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr. 2, 2008
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    1,354

    Default

    I think so too - we thought about adding a brace but it is just one more thing for them to chew on so we didn't.

    The most important thing with T&G is to be sure it is fully dry before you work with it - most lumber yard deliver it with too much moisture and it will shrink after you put it up - defeats the purpose of the T&G!



  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan. 4, 2007
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    40,082

    Default

    Our stalls are 14' x 14'.
    We have a stall wall hanging on a pipe, that will swing back to make one double stall out of two stalls.

    Our stall walls are portable not framed into the building.
    We can just move them around with the tractor as we wish.



  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb. 24, 2005
    Posts
    2,215

    Default

    So, Bluey is that just a regular stall divider attached to a verticle pipe? These three stalls are permanent ones.



  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan. 4, 2007
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    40,082

    Default

    Yes, that one partition can stand there between stalls, or swing out of the way against one or the other side and leave that an open area.



  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun. 30, 2006
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
    Posts
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    Default

    A breeding farm I worked at had their stall walls hung on heavy duty hinges. They worked quite well. They were kind of like giant doors.
    Don't fall for a girl who fell for a horse just to be number two in her world... ~EFO



  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb. 24, 2005
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    Texarana, that was my original thought. I wondered though, if the door wouldn't be too heavy for the hinges, but it seems to have worked well in your situation.

    Bluey, I remember a photo of yours some time ago where you had a small barn where your door could swing to one of three positions - enclosing one stall or another or both. I can almost picture it - but I'm thinking that's the one, or a similar one to what your talking about here.

    I was looking at hardware online and then at a local ranch store. The local store has everything I would need for one of the moveable dividers that Chall linked. With the hardware they have, I could divide the three stall in a number of ways and it's not that expensive. It seems a little easier to do than the door, but I may find that it looks easier than it is.

    I appreciate all of the suggestions and will use one of them. Thanks!



  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb. 1, 2012
    Location
    Vermont
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    4,873

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ToTheNines View Post
    I have channels with 2 x 6's. The main problem was warping of the 2 x 6's, so I put a 1 x 6 up the middle on one side. Sort of defeated the point of having channels, but with just two deck screws onto each board, the 1 x 6 can be easily removed.
    This is EXACTLY how we did the divider between my two stalls. We built the channels with wood, not metal, and the vertical support post is a 2x4, but otherwise, same setup.

    I just wanted to remove some 2x6's so the wall wasn't quite so high so the horses could see each other over the wall (my mare hates being stalled, figured being able to see adn touch my gelding would help with some of her anxiety). Anyways, it took about 10 minutes to unscrew the vertical 2x4 from the 2x6's that we wanted to remove, then we slid them up the channels and took them out.

    We just left the vertical 2x4 as is, it just sticks up past the wall, about 8' high I think. The wall is shorter than that now, so looks funny sticking up there by itself, but who cares?! It's a private barn, and I wanted it there in case I choose to put the 2x6's back in to make the wall higher later.
    "If you think nobody cares about you, try missing a couple payments..."



  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun. 30, 2006
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coyoteco View Post
    Texarana, that was my original thought. I wondered though, if the door wouldn't be too heavy for the hinges, but it seems to have worked well in your situation.
    The hinges we used kind of looked like the "heavy duty barrel hinge" pictured at the bottom of this page:

    http://www.aluminum-fence.com/delgar...ifications.htm

    Doubt that's exactly the same hinge, but it was that style.
    Don't fall for a girl who fell for a horse just to be number two in her world... ~EFO



  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec. 13, 1999
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
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    35,520

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    I used metal U channels, slid 2x6 T&G into them up to about 4'6", then used spacers and slid regular 2x6 with 2" gaps all the way up to about 9'. I have a metal strengthener screwed vertically up the middle of the 12' boards for added stability. It doesn't take long at all to remove or put it back
    ______________________________
    The CoTH CYA - please consult w/your veterinarian under any and all circumstances. - ET



  17. #17
    Join Date
    Feb. 24, 2005
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    Default

    It seems that there are three very good and doable options. I was afraid of the hinge, but it seems to work if the hinge and post is storng enough. Now to get into the barn and make a final decision and get it done. Thanks for all the help.



  18. #18
    Join Date
    Feb. 6, 2003
    Location
    Deep South
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    14,494

    Default

    ... _. ._ .._. .._



  19. #19
    Join Date
    Feb. 24, 2005
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    Default

    Thanks for the link. I ordered a catalog from them.



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