[TwoDreamRides]

Well, I rode in a Greg Best clinic on Tues/Wed and I have to say it was the best money I have ever spent! I was in the highest (3'6) section which had 3 people in it (actually, all the groups only had 3 people) and we were on our horses for 3 hours each day. We had 1 16 hand Jumper mare, 1 huge Equitation Draft X, and my big Hunter Warmblood cross. As GB said - couldn't have 3 more different horses! I thought I'd summarize some principles he shared with us and then share video!

1. Bit Choice
My horse schools in a waterford 3-ring and shows in the D-ring version of this bit. I was wearing the 3-ring for the clinic. GB "surveyed" each horse before we started, gave the a look over for conformation & tack and asked us what we showed in. He honed in on my bit choice and asked me why I use it. In my starstruck state, I kind of blurted "He tends to curl and take me" - the better response would have been that "He is long necked & long backed, and I need some leverage against that." GB explained how he thinks most 3 rings are mis-used on curling horses and actual encourage many to go behind the bit and curl more. He gave me benefit of doubt and said we'd see how it goes, but to expect him to change my bit for Day 2. However - he ended up never bringing up the it issue again and did at one point mention that Preston uses his neck for leverage against me.

Also on a side note for tack - for larger horses GB prefers tendon & fetlock boots to polo wraps. This was not mentioned in my group but in one I audited the next day. I had only brought polos, so polos it was. He feels that the hard protection on boots provides more protection from their big hooves than polos do.

And finally, he thinks you should carry a crop every time you get on a horse. If your horse is nervous about crops, you need to desensitize them. Carry it every time you ride, not just when you plan to use it. Horses should also be fine with you carrying a dressage whip. Spurs are rider preference, but many who ride with spurs should really just be carrying a crop.


2. Start with more.
If your horse has a tendency to build pace throughout the course, start with more pace. Rather than compensating for this tendency by starting with less pace and then building to the perfect pace, attack the problem head on and start with as much pace as your limit (what's your limit? losing control) and then work/practice the decrease.

Also, for this type of horse, why havea 6-8" release? It should be 0 to -1. Your seat and hands should be independent of each other. If you keep your seat/shoulders back, you still have control and can decide then how much to give with your hands based off of how softly the horse approached the jump.

The same principle of start with more goes for horses who do not jump across fences straight. If your horse has a tendency to jump left, what should you do? A) Ride to the right, so you end up center. B) Ride to the center and hope & pray you stay straight. C) Ride to the left so the horse is forced to jump straight or possibly even make a move to the right. GB would say the answer is C. By riding to the far left of the jump, the horse has no room to jump to the left. The horse either needs to hold its body straight or even will need to make a move to the right. Once there is consistency coming at the jump on this track, you can gradually begin centering the track again.


3. Exercise for practicing straightness.
Set a small vertical. On either side - approximately 6' from base of jump, set a ground pole perpendicular to the jump & centered. - | - For the horse that jumps left, approach jump on the left side of the approach pole and have it land on the right side of the landing pole. When I say "on the side" - it's not feet away from the approach/landing pole, it is inches. Use it as a guide rail. Like wise for the horse that jumps right, approach on the right side of the approach pole and have horse land on the left side of the landing pole. For the horse who is generally straight, pick a side and stay on that side (left approach to left landing or right approach to right landing). GB did offer up that typically, the harder is to ride to whichever is the outside option. Ideally you'd be making a square turn to the approach, but it is easy to make a shorter turn on the inside approach and still stay straight. The outside approach, you really have to have a good turn to get straight.


4. After a jump, before the corner...
Straight. Collect. Lead Change.
Always.
For a short strided horse, replace 'Collect' with 'Slow'.


5. Close the thigh, close the knee.
GB is NOT telling us to pinch with the knee. Instead, most would agree that there is always a point of contact mid-thigh and a point of contact mid-calf. There are many schools of thought regarding knee, bu GB feels that between those two aforementioned points of contact, the knee should remain closed and pressure even throughout the leg. The horse's body pivots around the knee, therefore the knee's placement should stay constant. Watch for movement here: up/down, back to front, and in/out.

Along these lines, your stirrup bar should leg no farther forward than the back line of your girth. If you have the tendency to have your leg farther forward than that (guilty of this on my right leg!) imagine riding with a tennis ball behind your knee and trying to keep it there. This will give you the correct angle in your knee.


6. The only time there should be air between your butt & your saddle is when posting.
Not cantering, not jumping. You can keep your butt in the saddle while keeping a closed hip angle. Look at pictures of bareback puissance. These riders' positions are not interfering with the horses' ability to jump through their backs. Freedom for the horse is achieved by where the seat is front to back rather than on or off the horse's back.


7. Commit.
If you believe, the horse will too.


One girl in our group got the typical GB treatment - bridged stirrups, knots in the reins, & the bight upside down. It was really cool to see her position change as he added each of these things!

Again - GREAT clinic experience and I highly recommend! Below are links to video if you feel like watching. GB was really complimentary of me & my horse - "even though he is a great big moose of a thing"! Some of you may know from other threads that 3 months ago I joined the gym & got a personal trainer with the goal to build arm & core strength. I was grinning ear to ear when GB said that I had great upper body control and was perhaps the strongest rider of all the sessions.

My mom didn't do a great job videoing and my friend uploaded her better videos to FB rather than YouTube so I can't figure out how to share...

Day 1 snippets: http://youtu.be/I5kyU2vtJ9o
Day 2 Warmup snippets: http://youtu.be/z8ilPVODv5s
Day 3 Coursework snippets: http://youtu.be/p6OtLXiNieE


Hope this helps anyone who is considering attending a GB clinic!

[maneevent]

What a great experience...thanks for sharing!

[Bigbutt]

Great information - just running off to watch a local show so only got to watch a snippet of your video - and without the volume as hubby is watching the Ryder Cup right now.

When I come back can't wait to see your videos - but how did he like the draft X? I ask cuz I own one and some of the local bigger then their britches trainers tend to turn their nose up at them for some reason.

[EventerAJ]

Wonderful clinic write-up, thank you!

[vxf111]

When I come back can't wait to see your videos - but how did he like the draft X? I ask cuz I own one and some of the local bigger then their britches trainers tend to turn their nose up at them for some reason.

When I audited a different GB clinic, I saw a Judgment baby, lots of pricey warmbloods, and A Circuit ponies. Do you know what horse he GUSHED, just GUSHED over-- the LOUD WP moving appy He's not a breed snob.

Great summary TDR, sounds like it went superb for you!