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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar. 26, 2011
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    5,204

    Default Please help a trailer virgin assess this ad for a 2 horse bumper pull

    http://www.horseclicks.com/trailers/9ft7hm/

    I think it sounds lovely, but I am a noob.

    Thanks
    Paula
    He is total garbage! Quick! Hide him on my trailer (Petstorejunkie).



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar. 13, 2006
    Location
    Sno County
    Posts
    3,844

    Default

    If I were nearby I'd snap it up in a minute. It looks fantastic for its age, and that price So cheap. This trailer in my neck of the woods would be easily $3,000. I didn't look closely at the inside height (if it was listed) but make sure it's what you can live with depending on the height of your horses. Trailers back then weren't very tall.
    Yogurt - If you're so cultured, how come I never see you at the opera? Steven Colbert



  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep. 8, 2005
    Location
    Newnan, Georgia
    Posts
    362

    Default

    Having owned a trailer of similar build and vintage, I bet that ramp weighs a ton.



  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar. 26, 2011
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    5,204

    Default

    It's a TB trailer -that makes it taller right? And can that divider come out? As for the ramp weighing a ton -I'll find out if it's more tonnage than I can handle if I go see it

    I want to put one horse in it -Fella my perch/stb.

    Paula
    He is total garbage! Quick! Hide him on my trailer (Petstorejunkie).



  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct. 24, 2001
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    2,634

    Default

    As the owner of an 1984 Shoop 2HBP without a dressing room, I think it looks great and would snap it up. They're good trailers and last a long time--the guys who work on mine told me that it may not be pretty, but it's solid

    But beware that it is steel, and depending on where you have to keep it, it will rust sooner or later. And it will be heavy, so it depends on what you have to tow it with (I pull mine with a Yukon XL, and it does fine). The ramp will be HEAVY; with two people, picking mine up isn't too difficult, and but doing it myself is a real PITA if I'm not parked level/slightly downhill.



  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar. 26, 2011
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    5,204

    Default

    I'm pulling with a 97 Chevy Tahoe. Good to know about the steel -can I tarp it or something? It will be living outside, unless I can see if my neighbor can store it for me in his giant garage.

    Paula
    He is total garbage! Quick! Hide him on my trailer (Petstorejunkie).



  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct. 24, 2001
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    2,634

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by paulaedwina View Post
    I'm pulling with a 97 Chevy Tahoe. Good to know about the steel -can I tarp it or something? It will be living outside, unless I can see if my neighbor can store it for me in his giant garage.

    Paula
    I'm no expert by any means--the Shoop is my "starter trailer" that I hope to trade up in a couple years--but I've always heard a tarp is a bad idea, because it will trap moisture/condensation close to the metal, and speed up rusting. My solution is a boyfriend who likes being handy, a lot of sandpaper, and liberal use of rustoleum paint for touchups. Living inside isn't an option for mine!



  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar. 26, 2011
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    5,204

    Default

    Well, I sent an inquiry. If it's still there I guess I'll go see it. Here's a question that may be asking too much; how do you assess the condition of a trailer? What should I look for and what questions should I ask?

    Paula
    He is total garbage! Quick! Hide him on my trailer (Petstorejunkie).



  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar. 6, 2002
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    6,001

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JenEM View Post
    My solution is a boyfriend who likes being handy, a lot of sandpaper, and liberal use of rustoleum paint for touchups. Living inside isn't an option for mine!
    Steel wool and a lot of soft scrub works well also. I was just thinking I need to tackle that chore this weekend... between that, the need for a new jack, and a few leaks that need sealed, oy!
    What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what
    lies with in us. - Emerson



  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug. 21, 2006
    Location
    Pa-eternally laboring in the infinite creative and sustentative work of the universe
    Posts
    1,193

    Default

    I have a 2horse Shoop without a dressing room a few years younger and still going strong. I pull with a 4x/F150. Yes, the ramp is heavy, the trailer itself is heavy but it is solid.
    JenEM gave you the same advice my mechanic gave me for storing the trailer and it works.

    Check list.
    1. is it inspected? and for how long?
    2. ask them if you can drive it with their truck first.... if your hitch and connectors are the same, then try with yours, you'll find if the brakes work or not (need them for inspection) and if you have compatable wiring.
    3. standard here, check the tires.
    4. check the seams for rust, no biggie, sand any out and primer well, coat with good paint patch up.
    5. Check the floor, pick up the mats and LQQK, especially for rotting in the back
    6. the price is worth giving the 2k. you wont get a better deal.

    Sounds like a super deal!
    IN GOD WE TRUST
    OTTB's ready to show/event/jumpers. Track ponies for perfect trail partners.
    http://www.horseville.com/php/search...=1&ssid=057680



  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar. 26, 2011
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    5,204

    Default

    Well heck now I'm excited. I hope she still has it. My Tahoe doesn't get a hitch until next Friday though. It's all good. I'll keep this list and take a more trailer-knowledgeable buddy with me.

    Thanks guys.

    Paula
    He is total garbage! Quick! Hide him on my trailer (Petstorejunkie).



  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov. 17, 2001
    Location
    Bryan,Texas
    Posts
    2,261

    Default

    With your horse and your choice of horses, I would be looking for WB trailers not TB trailers. That means you need minimally 7'2", 7'6"+ would be better in height. And as much width and length in a straight load allowed for WB's. And aluminum rather than steel.

    I would keep looking for a WB aluminum and not so old trailer, jmo



  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar. 26, 2011
    Location
    Pennsylvania
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    5,204

    Default

    What is the difference in dimension between WB and TB trailers? I thought TB trailers were taller? I will make a note of your height recommendations. As for the aluminum/steel question -this much I have researched and they both have their advantages and disadvantages.

    Paula
    He is total garbage! Quick! Hide him on my trailer (Petstorejunkie).



  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb. 1, 2008
    Location
    Nowhere, Maryland
    Posts
    3,483

    Default

    My trailer is a TB size (Bison Thorosport), and it's 7'6 high, but I don't think it's as wide as the WB ones. It fits two 16.1+, solidly built horses comfortably, but I'm not sure it would be wide enough for a purebred draft. I'm not sure there's a definite standard, but since you have a big, heavy horse I would definitely go for extra tall and extra wide.

    ETA: But it does look like a nice trailer!



  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar. 26, 2011
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    5,204

    Default

    Can't I just take the divider out and use the 2 horse as a 1 draft cross horse trailer?

    Paula
    He is total garbage! Quick! Hide him on my trailer (Petstorejunkie).



  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jul. 31, 2007
    Posts
    15,607

    Default

    This could be a great deal!

    The price is right. The history is right (steel trailer parked inside.)

    Ask about the height. I'd like 7'6". For a trailer that got everything else right, I'd take 7'.

    The dressing room will please you. The straight load/walk through will, too.

    Shoops are trusty old brick sh!thouses of horse trailers. That's just fine....especially for not too much money.

    Ask them how much it weighs. That number (maybe 2,500-3,000#?) will be stamped on the metal plate with the VIN. Tongue weight may be around 500#.

    I'd accept a floor that needed replacing for $2K on a well-designed trailer. I'd accept a heavy ramp and even stiff hinges.

    I'd think twice if I saw lots of rust where it was eating deep into the metal.

    Your Tahoe many not be happy, but I think you could pull this (not overloaded) with a weight distribution hitch and stabilizer bars.
    The armchair saddler
    Politically Pro-Cat



  17. #17
    Join Date
    Aug. 21, 2006
    Location
    Pa-eternally laboring in the infinite creative and sustentative work of the universe
    Posts
    1,193

    Default

    You sure can! Ive had some monster tall horses in my trailer, even I thought twice before loading, but you know... they fit. I have a 16.3 who is nearly 1/2draft size (yes tb). who fits his slot with room left over. Trailers arent stalls, sometimes you dont want them to have a (lot) of extra room to bounce around in.

    Key-note: if you dont have a hitch, be sure to drive it with their truck to get a feel that it rides ok, brakes.

    Be sure to double check your towing capacity. You most likely have the 5.7 engine . thats a 7000towing max with 6100gvwr. You can always check with your local u-haul, dealer, or other towing specialists for their opinions.

    How do *I* know ... I looked at the Tahoe and went with a 4xf150(manual)/ for a 2-horse its enough, but stock or 3h, I'll have to move up to a f250. You dont want to overload your vehicle or you'll be hiring your mechanic to replace u-joints and tranny parts every other weekend.

    You can always weigh your horse at the local feed mill, they area always glad ot do this ! then you'll know! (and might be surprised how much they really do weigh)
    IN GOD WE TRUST
    OTTB's ready to show/event/jumpers. Track ponies for perfect trail partners.
    http://www.horseville.com/php/search...=1&ssid=057680



  18. #18
    Join Date
    Sep. 13, 2010
    Posts
    103

    Default check the floor

    When you go to see the trailer, take a big flathead screwdriver and a big flashlight with you. Pull up the mats, and poke at the floor with your big screwdriver. Check around the edges, especially by the back door. If the wood is easily penetrated by your screwdriver, you may have to replace the floor, but that isn't a big deal.

    If the upper side of the floor is ok, then get out your flashlight, wiggle under the trailer and look carefully at the braces and supports, etc, and see how rusty they are. If you see rust and deep pitting, poke at it with your screwdriver, and see what happens. If you can poke through the rust in any supporting member, run away. Also, poke the wood floor again from the underside, paying special attention to the edges, especially in the back. Replacing the floor isn't that expensive if the metal supports and braces are in good shape.
    friend of bar.ka

    I am dressed up. These wellies are clean.



  19. #19
    Join Date
    Apr. 22, 2011
    Location
    the Armpit of the Nation
    Posts
    3,175

    Default

    I LOVE old Shoops, and this one looks like a peach. Go git it.



  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jun. 22, 2001
    Location
    Coatesville, Pa.
    Posts
    5,502

    Default

    FWIW Paula,

    I am headed from the Malvern/Coatesville area tomorrow down through Md to see my new horse trailer in person for the first time.

    Manchester isn't that far off the route, and I'd love some company. Plus I am an experienced trailer/ car buying horse person if you'd like an experienced set of eyes.

    Pm me.



    ~Emily
    "Courage is not the absence of fear but rather the judgment that something is more important than fear. The brave may not live forever but the cautious do not live at all." ~2001 The Princess Diaries



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