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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov. 15, 2005
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    607

    Default Staining stall doors

    I am debating staining the fronts of our stalls and stall doors. I love the look but have never stained anything before. Would love to hear the pros and cons and "how to's". What products did you like best? Is it safe to stain with horses in the stalls? Thanks!



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar. 29, 2003
    Posts
    1,382

    Default

    No advice but I'm interested too! I would also love to stain the boarder's lockers in my barn.



  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct. 18, 2000
    Posts
    22,455

    Default

    I just used Minwax. I think it was Minwax - It was a stain and sealer. I didn't do the stall doors, though. I lined the aisles with beadboard and stained that. I just rolled it on - I think two coats.

    Surface prep consisted of making sure the surfaces were clean and lightly sanded smooth.
    Brothers and sisters, I bid you beware
    Of giving your heart to a dog to tear.
    -Rudyard Kipling



  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov. 12, 2001
    Location
    Dry Ridge, KY USA
    Posts
    3,125

    Default

    Gryhrs,

    Send a PM to Izzman. Her DH and she stained the fronts of the stalls and the stall doors in their barn. However, I believe that they did them before the horses were in them. You need a lot of ventilation for humans and horses, so pick a warmer day to do them.

    If they are not new, then you may need to sand them first, which will be dusty, too.

    Have you been able to ride much this Winter?
    When in Doubt, let your horse do the Thinking!



  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr. 19, 2006
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    437

    Default

    I used a water-based clear varnish on mine (satin finish, not high gloss), before I installed the wood in the stalls. I did 3 coats on each side so hopefully it will hold up well. I did this for the stall fronts, partitions and Dutch door bottoms (they are windows on top). It was November when I did it so I had to set it all up in the garage, which has a heater so I could keep the air in the recommended temperature range. Because it was water based there was not a noxious smell and ventilation was not a problem...otherwise I would not have been able to do it indoors. I think stain would require a lot of ventilation so I would wait until it's warm out and you can leave the doors open and horses outside.



  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec. 13, 1999
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    36,091

    Default

    Marine varnish on all our walls/doors. You don't want the horses in there, because they WILL find a way to put their own little stamp on wet stain LOL

    You could still use a color, but you really do want something like a marine-grade varnish as the final coat for protectin
    ______________________________
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb. 18, 2008
    Location
    Landlocked in Western Mass.
    Posts
    285

    Default

    @JB - Where does one find marine grade varnish? Brand name suggestions? I used just a plain polyurethane on my doors & walls @ 3 yrs. ago, and it still looks good - though the weather definately has affected it.
    Whatever you do, or dream you can, begin it; Boldness has genius, magic, and power in it ~ Goethe



  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec. 13, 1999
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    36,091

    Default

    It's Spar Varnish - Home Depot, Lowes, that deal
    ______________________________
    The CoTH CYA - please consult w/your veterinarian under any and all circumstances. - ET



  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov. 15, 2005
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    607

    Default

    Thanks all. What's the difference between a water based and marine grade? Does the water based deteriorate if wet? Ignorant on all counts



  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec. 13, 1999
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    36,091

    Default

    These days, water-based vs oil-based is all about the fumes and the ease of cleanup, as well as which you can/can't put over the other LOL

    Oil tends to penetrate deeper and last longer, but dries more slowly. IMHO, for the type of abuse - licking, peeing on, exposure to light, etc - that stalls take, oil-based is better.
    ______________________________
    The CoTH CYA - please consult w/your veterinarian under any and all circumstances. - ET



  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec. 12, 2010
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,197

    Default

    We power washed our stall fronts before doing it. They were pretty dirty. If you power wash just make sure you don't focus on one area for too long because the wood will start to splinter. I don't remember what type of stain we used. But we just brushed it on and let it dry. The horses were put in their runs while doing this. We also made sure that all the barn doors and windows were open for the fumes.
    http://www.youtube.com/user/NBChoice http://nbchoice.blogspot.com/
    The New Banner's Choice- 1994 ASB Mare
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  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec. 13, 1999
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
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    Default

    Yep, no matter what any directions say, brushing it on always provides the best coverage. You CAN spray/roll, but for this, in the end, you still would want to brush after. It might go faster if you spray first and have someone back brush behind you, but that requires 2 people.
    ______________________________
    The CoTH CYA - please consult w/your veterinarian under any and all circumstances. - ET



  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov. 10, 2011
    Posts
    901

    Default

    I used Minwax. Two coats. I am going back to do the spar varnish this weekend.

    My Friend did her 12 stall barn with a solid color deck stain. It really went on more like a paint, and the grain of the wood doesn't show through. It's been 2 years and there are many places where it looks awful (under buckets, by the hose, where horses have kicked/ chewed). She didn't put anything on top of the deck paint and I would say that by the end of year 1, the stalll fronts were no more waterproof than before they were stained. Also, where the stain has worn off, the wood underneath looks very dry and brittle. I don't know if that's the case or not... just saying that's what it looks like.

    Having used the minwax, and the deck paint, I think the minwax looks a lot nicer. It shows the grain of the wood and the texture. The paint is opaque and you loose some of the richness of wood boards. I also think keeping a quart or so handy so you can touchup those places is a good idea. You can buy foam applicators at the dollar store and just tap stain in places where it wears off.



  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov. 3, 2010
    Posts
    165

    Default

    The reason you want the marine varnish, or "spar urethane" is because it's not special oils inside that help it deal with temperature variations that a regular polyurethane can't handle. I would say the BEST one is made by rust-oleum. Doesn't bubble, easy to go on, dries faster, and doesn't smell as bad.



  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov. 15, 2005
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    607

    Default

    Fantastic! Any pics?? l like the idea of the natural woods showing through. Would love to see colors and it is difficult to envision with the 3 inch swatches!



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