The Chronicle of the Horse
MagazineNewsHorse SportsHorse CareCOTH StoreVoicesThe Chronicle UntackedDirectoriesMarketplaceDates & Results
 
Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    Join Date
    May. 21, 2004
    Location
    N. TX...just N.East of paradise...
    Posts
    2,026

    Default Adding stalls to concrete floored shop?

    Looking at properties, I see alot with nice shop/barn buildings, but are really glorified garages with concrete floors, some are clear span. No partitions anywhere to build to.

    How would you add stalls to a concrete floored clear span building, if you wanted something other than corral panels that move around on the concrete?

    What method of attachment for wood walls/supports do you use in this situation?
    "As a rule we disbelieve all the facts and theories for which we have no use."- William James
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    Proud member of the Wheat Loss Clique.



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan. 4, 2007
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    41,613

    Default

    You can use heavy duty portable stalls, good quality ones, that won't be "moving around" any on their own, but you can move them when your needs change.

    You can easily bolt a plate to the concrete that has posts attached to it, or weld the posts to it after you bolt the plate down.
    We do that regularly, drill a hole and put the fasteners in there you bolt to.
    Ask your local hardware store about the different systems for that.
    Our well house was made in the shop and bolted down on the concrete slab.



  3. #3
    Join Date
    May. 21, 2004
    Location
    N. TX...just N.East of paradise...
    Posts
    2,026

    Default

    Are they cheaper than building out with wood? Money is a concern here, too.
    "As a rule we disbelieve all the facts and theories for which we have no use."- William James
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    Proud member of the Wheat Loss Clique.



  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan. 4, 2007
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    41,613

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Melelio View Post
    Are they cheaper than building out with wood? Money is a concern here, too.
    That I can't answer.
    Here, wood is at a premium, the quality of wood poor, wood that gets shipped in here is generally too green.
    We can use metal cheaper than wood.

    If you are where wood is good and easy to get, it may be cheaper.



  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct. 16, 2008
    Location
    Central Oklahoma
    Posts
    3,147

    Default

    We built our barn as clear span because we did not want the posts in the middle, And, we poured concrete throughout the whole building because I hate pot holes in the stalls

    There are plenty of stalls that are made for clear span buildings. Ours are the Europesn style with open front and are bolt down to the concrete.



  6. #6
    Join Date
    May. 15, 2009
    Location
    Eastern Ontario, CND
    Posts
    2,191

    Default

    Up here, no they are not cheaper then wood, unless you can find really good used one (good luck!).

    What Gloria said you can bolt things down in to concrete and against the metal walls.
    "For some people it's not enough to just be a horse's bum, you have to be sea biscuit's bum" -anon.
    Nes' Farm Blog ~ DesigNes.ca
    Need You Now Equine



  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb. 14, 2003
    Location
    Windward Farm, Washougal, WA- our work in progress, our money pit, our home!
    Posts
    6,978

    Default

    I used Priefert Modular stalls for my shop turned barn. IIRC they were on par with building wooden stalls with grill work. I have 3 stalls against my west wall. Now, I do have posts in the front corner of each stall, as that is how my barn came, and I didn't feel safe removing them (structural integrity). Fronts (I have 3, with sliding doors no feed door though) and middle pieces are all you'll need. If you build your stalls against the walls, you'll need to use lumber to cover the metal. I used marine grade 3/4 inch plywood for the back and side wall where horses could contact metal. All the other spaces are 2 x 6 fir.

    Call up a mod stall maker and ask prices and configurations. I like that I can take mine out and use them in another barn, or return my shop to a shop in case a future home buyer doesn't want a stable set up.
    Proud member of the "Don't rush to kill wildlife" clique!



  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr. 21, 2010
    Posts
    2,515

    Default

    I forget what they are called, but you can find these brackets that you secure into the concrete to put your support beams up with, then attach stall fronts/sides/back to. Its just a U shape that a 4x4 support post fits into. It screws into the concrete and then screws into the wood piece, I believe.

    When hubby comes home I can try to remember if no one here does.

    Our barn is part of a shop, although we had it built. The "bank barn" portion is a 30x34 shop, and a 30x30 horse barn. It was one large area, and hubby put in the wall to seperate it.

    This is halfway through doing the stalls:
    http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56...g/P1170828.jpg

    This is from the outside, my horse area is on the right
    http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56...g/P1170389.jpg



  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr. 21, 2010
    Posts
    2,515

    Default

    Ok, this is sort of what I'm talking about:
    http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...ba-abe-abu.asp



  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul. 6, 2000
    Location
    Alvin, TX
    Posts
    1,050

    Default

    We bought a house that had a shop partyway converted to a barn. The best thing is that it is connected to the house via a breezeway! Especially important when you live somewhere that gets 50 inches of rain a year. Well, normally, but we've had about 3 this year as we are in severe drought. But I digress...

    Very easily done. Metal posts were bolted to concrete floor to 'hang' stall components. Mine are by JW Hall. They have sliding doors with tongue and groove wood dropped into frame and metal grill at top. Partitions are the same - pine tongue and groove 2x6s dropped into "U" channels bolted to walls, and then 4' tall metal grills dropped on top of that. Very standard configuration for barns around here.

    My only caveat is ventilation. Ours was originallly heated and cooled and so had no roof vents or any way for rising hot air to escape. In a perfect world, I would replace the roof and insulate the heck out of it. In my imperfect world, we put exhaust fans at each end of the building.

    I do not like the concrete in the stalls, but I have thick mats, and thick bedding and they are only in the stalls at night. I do like the concrete aisle.



  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr. 21, 2010
    Posts
    2,515

    Default

    Just don't get the concrete wet, as I have learned the past few days from cold-hosing my horse outside!

    They turn into Bambi on the concrete! Thankfully mine are barefoot so they only slid a little but whew! Could have been bad!



  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov. 2, 2001
    Location
    Packing my bags
    Posts
    32,649

    Default

    you can also build them up with concrete blocks.
    They are more permanent that way but works well. We had done 2 barns that way for my sister.

    While I think that the traditional barn model I am used to has the posts at the corners, I know I have been in barns they were converted from cattle/dairy to horses, one was quiet high, but it's been over 25 years and I can't remember the construction.
    Byt basically with was metal frame work, bottom filled out with wooden planks and the top a metal grit.

    so yes, it can be done.



  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan. 26, 2006
    Location
    Fort Worth, Texas
    Posts
    4,524

    Default

    Our main barn is clear span with concrete pavers flooring and we have the metal prefab stalls... they have never moved.

    We purposely did not attach the stalls to the building as once attached they are part of the building...ours are free standing thus furniture... if we sell or move the stalls and rubber mats come with us.



  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct. 25, 2007
    Posts
    3,575

    Default

    I put in walls in my basement with some kind of gun I hammered or shot the nails into a 2x4 for my plate. I was making an apt. You could easily use a 2x6.
    Then run a post on that and run your 2x6 boards onto the posts for the fronts.

    I may not be explaining it well, but if you went to a hardware store and explained you wanted to nail into concrete, they might do better explaining or helping you draw it out.

    There are also folks who cut concrete, because I hired them to cut out for large windows where I had previously only had the small basement windows.

    You could also have someone cut out the concrete a 4x6 or 6x6 square and drop the post in that. May be more expensive, but its an option too.
    I would talk to one of them about options for putting in posts.
    save lives...spay/neuter/geld



  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct. 18, 2000
    Posts
    22,442

    Default

    Our barn has a concrete floor. We built it that way on purpose.

    We also built the stalls for a heck of a lot less than it would cost to buy them.

    We used pressure treated lumber for the sills, bolted those into the floor, then built the walls from there. We used a hammer drill to drill through the concrete. If you don't have one, and you're going to do this yourself, don't buy the cheapo ones meant for light duty use. Rent one, use the right masonry bit, and those stall walls will be strong and securely attached to the floor.

    None of the concrete needs to be cut to accommodate posts or sills. You just bolt plates to the floor, put your post in, and there are cleats and nailing points for the wood. Same thing with the sills. Bolted to the floor, then you build your wall, nailing or screwing into the wood. What we did was build the walls, then simply lift them into place, screwing them to the sill. Essentially, panelized construction (using thick plywood, 16" on center construction). The walls have held up to kicks from a Percheron.

    In this photo, you see black grills. We made those ourselves, (built a jig, bought the steel, and welded them) but you can buy those pre made.

    A concrete floor is terrific for a barn. Easy to clean, you won't have rats and skunks burrowing, no pee spots, etc.

    Oh - we laid a brick aisle on top of the concrete in the barn. Just a whim on my part..... I have fond memories of visiting stable yards in England, and seeing lots of brick. So... I just had to have a brick aisle - which the horse's poop on.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0067.jpg 
Views:	105 
Size:	84.8 KB 
ID:	33485  
    Brothers and sisters, I bid you beware
    Of giving your heart to a dog to tear.
    -Rudyard Kipling



Similar Threads

  1. Approximate Costs of Adding Stalls in Barn
    By *Brightside* in forum Around The Farm
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: Feb. 16, 2011, 09:06 AM
  2. Concrete ramps going into stalls
    By silvermar in forum Around The Farm
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: Oct. 20, 2010, 03:35 PM
  3. Concrete ridge in stalls
    By Corbyville283 in forum Horse Care
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: Jun. 21, 2010, 01:55 PM
  4. Replies: 13
    Last Post: May. 9, 2010, 10:29 PM
  5. Concrete or stone dust under barn/stalls?
    By dmalbone in forum Around The Farm
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: Sep. 2, 2009, 04:46 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
randomness