We've had zero trouble with the 10" Stanley tee and strap hinges. Some have been in use for 30 years without replacement and the heavy dutch doors still swing freely with one finger.
Our doors are 2x panel with 2x crosses, so they are 3" thick where the crosses are. I didn't want hardware on the inside, so I used the maximum length woodscrews. All are #14 and either 3" on the door and 3 1/2" into the barn-never had one fail. Screw holes need to be precisely the right size and location in the hole on the hinge.
I've used probably every kind of sliding latch there is. For one with the least protrusions, it's probably the Richards-Wilcox, although I have one complaint with the design.
Pleasants Hardware in Richmond on Broad Street used to keep them in stock and probably still does. It's also much heavier duty than any bent rod one. My complaint with the design is the way the groove is cast in the slide. It slides easier when the lock is closed, than it does when you lift the handle. It still works okay, even though that seemed a dumb design feature to me.
I guess a copy and paste from a pdf file messes with the vbulletin software...........
My contractor just added a screw eye to each one which allows you to secure them with a snap for those latches that are within reach of a horse's mouth. "This latch is really sturdy, slides well and the spring in the latch moves the latch back and keeps it back when you open the door. This way there is no slide bar sticking out past the edge of the door to catch a horses hide as they walk out. Very good safety feature. I've found htese latches at various farm supplies and farmers coop stores. As you see they are carried by Southern States also. National makes all kinds of hardware for barns, stables, sheds, gates, etc. Good quality, no rusting.
Our door hinges where mounted with carriage bolts with the smooth, rounded head on the inside where a horse might stand, going all the way thru the wood, thru the holes in the hinges and secured with nuts. Very secure and sturdy construction method, all rough cut oak except the exterior door were surfaced with the same poplar board and batten as the barn exterior. The oak has withstood all attempts at chewing, the horses just loose interest in it. Love living in an area where there are so many mills that deal in the hardwoods!
The carriage bolts have a completely smooth head and don't protrude and edges on the inside of the door, the smoothness is nice because of the that. I prefer a bolt that goes all the way thru all the layers of wood and has a nut on the other end over a screw into the wood for something like a door or gate that moves and flexes. Ultimately using bolts is a bit stronger and longer lasting and if need be the door can be disassembled to replace a board and reassembled more easily. When using bolts you want to pick just the right length so you don't have to much extending beyond the nut. Having a length that you can use a cap nut on is nice.
Our builder used bolts in many places that a lot of builders would have used screws and screws where many would have used nails. This barn is built to last. No fiberboard, plywood or pine in the entire barn either.
Tom King -
I am looking for some plans to build dutch doors for my barn. I tried linking to your 2006 post, but the link failed for me. (I think my profile was set to dump older posts based on COTH defaults.) Do you have access to print / scan, fax or any other way you can share it without having to re-type? If you can get it to me in any format I will send you an electronic copy back. Thanks in advance !