I betcha Gary Mundy could make you some... but I'm not entirely sure if he's back to work yet. I thought I had read on here that he wasn't making leathers for a while. Anyways, I got my trainer a pair of 64" leathers two Christmas's ago. She loved them and they were so incredibly soft. They are only single-ply... but they are very nice quality and cheap, but not cheaply made .
I'll see if I can dig up Gary's info for you.
Here's the info I found from another CoTHer's post:
I offer money back guarantee within 10 days of receipt of leathers if not satisfied.
If you are unsure of length, I've developed an algorithm that
might help. Measure your inseam and multiply that figure times 1.75.
E.g., 31" x 1.75 = 54.25. I don't guarantee this to be universally
accurate for all people and all saddles but it is a rough measurement.
If you use metric, I will convert to inches. Leathers are measured from the very tip of the buckle to the farthest (No. 1) hole.
Hole Spacing: 12 holes spaced @ 1 3/8", or desired number of holes and
(Note: I recommend spacing holes no closer than 3/4" due to possible weakening of the leather and the fact that in a loop such as a stirrup leather, moving one hole alters overall length only 1/2 the distance. That is, with 1/2" spacing, e.g., moving one hole changes actual length by only 1/4". Spacing at 3/4" with 20 holes offers plenty of adjustment. In general, I recommend the shorter the inseam of the rider, the closer the hole spacing, and vice versa.
Numbering: 1/8", 1/4" (most commonly preferred), or 3/8" (fancy) numbers (Note: With hole spacing under 1", I do not recommend the 3/8" numbers.)
Thread: I use size 277 nylon thread (51.5 lb. tensile strength). Thread color will match leather unless you specify white.
Edges: All four edges are beveled, dyed, conditioned and slicked by
hand. I also offer creased edges if desired. Creased edges enhance
appearance of leathers.
Monogram Option: I will monogram your leathers with up to three initials on the tip if desired. Lettering is with 3/8" decorative stamp. I can
also throw in a flower if desired. This makes identification a cinch.
(No extra charge.)
Rough Side Out Option: I normally make leathers with smooth (top grain) side out, the customary way. However, if customer prefers, I will make with rough (flesh) side out. Several makers such as Passier and Courbette offer this style.
Manufacturing: I custom make each set of leathers one order at a time to customer's specifications. Stitching is performed with the best medium to heavy leather sewing machine on the market, the Durkopp Adler 205-370. All ends are back tacked to ensure strength and will not unravel. Wrapping near buckle is meticulously performed by hand.
All leather is the same, just different colors. I.e., I use only Premium
Select Hermann Oak Leather Company, St. Louis, MO, 12/13 oz., "English" Bridle Leather from ONLY the BACK of the hide. The back is the strongest part of the hide.
Payment: PayPal to email@example.com ; Cashiers Check; Money Order; Personal Check (allow 10 days clearance). Due to administrative problems, I must insist that buyers outside U.S. pay only by PayPal in U.S. currency.
Shipping: I nearly always ship within two or three business days of
receiving payment. If payment is by personal check, I ship within ten
business days of receipt of check. I ship via U.S. Priority Mail.
Delivery is advertised in Postal Service web site at 2-3 business days
anywhere within the 48 states for Priority Mail--this usually holds true.
To summarize here are the choices offered:
1. Color: Havana, black, chestnut, or London tan
2. Width: 1" or 1 1/8"
4. Hole Spacing and Number of Holes
5. Number Size
6. Regular or Creased Edges
7. Smooth Side or Rough Side Out
8. Monogrammed with initials if desired
Stirrup leathers, along with the girth, are subjected to more wear and tear than any part of the saddle. To maintain English stirrup leathers in good condition, prevent drying out, and extend their useful life, they must be properly cleaned and conditioned regularly. Many top manufacturers like Passier, e.g., recommend cleaning with saddle soap and application of leather dressing on a weekly basis. It is also very important to store your leathers out of direct sun light and, if possible, in a climate controlled area. In areas with low humidity, excessive drying can cause cracking and deterioration. Just wiping off the horse sweat after use helps but a good cleaning and conditioning is a must. Never use Neetsfoot oil on your leathers as this will weaken the fibers, darken the leather, and cause excessive stretching. All leathers will show wear and some loss of color over time, particularly black leathers. Some care products may accelerate these effects and also harden the leather.
Best regards and thanks again!
Gary L. Mundy
Gary's Leather Shop
R. R. # 1, Box 283
Mitchell, Indiana 47446