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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec. 12, 2005
    Location
    Myrtle Beach, SC
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    3,122

    Default how to run your hotwire underground under a gate?

    I know it's been talked about... so to those who have their hotwire underground to cross fences... how did you do it.. is your insulated wire run through conduit? how deep did you go... please fill me in.
    TIA
    If i'm posting on Coth, it's either raining so I can't ride or it's night time and I can't sleep.



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan. 16, 2002
    Location
    West Coast of Michigan
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    Default

    We put the wire (coated copper) in 3/4" plastic conduit with the ends sealed with watertight connectors and buried it about a foot down under the gate. You can buy all those parts at Lowe's. Silicone spray helps when you are stuffing that wire through the conduit.
    Click here before you buy.



  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov. 6, 2002
    Location
    Henrico, NC 36 30'50.49" N 77 50'17.47" W
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    5,829

    Default

    Use the underground wire AND put it in conduit. Conduit is cheap. Put it in deeper than you think you need to.

    http://www.kencove.com/fence/detail.php?code=G32


    1 members found this post helpful.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan. 4, 2007
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    41,745

    Default

    I don't know about you, but here we add two tall plastic pipes to each side of the gate, wired to the posts there, run the wire up one, across the top to the other and back down to the fence on the other side.
    Works even in our very high winds, because the wire over the top doesn't hardly catch the wind.

    Now, there was a place or two many years ago, on temporary wheat pasture, where we ran the wire in an old garden hose, laid it on the ground, the ends turned up and taped well and the wire ran thru it.
    That worked for a season.


    1 members found this post helpful.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec. 12, 2005
    Location
    Myrtle Beach, SC
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    Default

    thanks DW and Tom King. I was thinking of you two as I was trying to describe what I wanted to Mr. C after I ran my electric tape around the top of the paddock.
    If i'm posting on Coth, it's either raining so I can't ride or it's night time and I can't sleep.



  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug. 25, 2007
    Posts
    9,058

    Default

    We use insulated wire and run it through a length of old garden hose. Crimp the ends and you're got a nice, watertight, very durable run.

    As noted, bury it deeper than you think you have to.

    If you can't find insulated wire most places (Co-Op, Tractor Supply, etc.) carries an insulating material that goes nicely with heavy gauge aluminum wire.

    G.



  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep. 24, 2004
    Location
    Piedmont Triad, North Carolina
    Posts
    2,359

    Default

    Tom King posted a link to the proper wire. But it bears repeating, use the high voltage rated wire. Ordinary electrical wire is only rated to 600 volts. A fence charger puts out 10,000 volts or more.

    I used 1/2 black poly water pipe under my gates. The poly pipe is run up the posts. The high voltage wire is sealed at the ends of the poly pipe, and a drip loop is formed to reduce the water running down the hi-volt wire.



  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan. 16, 2002
    Location
    West Coast of Michigan
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    Default

    Yes, you can use various shapes of conduit pieces to keep water from running in--sort of an upside-down "U" so the end of the conduit is pointing towards the ground. It means a lot of fiddly pieces and extra parts, but hopefully you'll only be doing the job once, you know? If I can remember I'll take some pictures of our setup tomorrow.
    Click here before you buy.



  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov. 4, 2003
    Location
    Sanger, TX, USA
    Posts
    4,954

    Default

    Yes, by all means, use the cable/wire made
    for that purpose. You can get rolls as short
    as 50 feet and it's not expensive. Your local
    Tractor Supply should carry it or any farm supply store that carries electrical fence supplies.



  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct. 20, 1999
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    14,656

    Default

    We ran ours through a length of garden hose. Worked a charm and cheap.
    "If you would have only one day to live, you should spend at least half of it in the saddle."



  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep. 6, 1999
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    5,249

    Default

    We ran conduit down the post then under the gate and back up the post. We kept the hot tape and didn't use the wire like Tom has. Is that not kosher? Should we switch it out to that wire instead?



  12. #12
    Join Date
    May. 8, 2004
    Posts
    4,305

    Default

    I am writing an article on fence repair/maintenance and would love to talk to anyone who has tips, suggestions.
    Thanks.



  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov. 6, 2002
    Location
    Henrico, NC 36 30'50.49" N 77 50'17.47" W
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    Default

    I use conduit now because over the years we've had a couple of "blowouts" on the insulation even when using the heaviest underground fence wire I could find. They were probably from lightning strikes since it's a pretty short jump to ground through the insulation. The conduit makes it easy to change with no digging required. Pull the new wire through with the old wire or use a fish tape. Having to dig the wire up is WAY more problem than the few bucks spent on conduit.

    I use 1/2" gray plastic conduit and the large radius 90 degree bends to turn the conduit up the sides of the gate posts. I don't go very high just because of the way it looks, and run the insulated wire up to where it joins the wire (no. 9 aluminum), make the connections with split bolts, and seal the ends of the conduit with polyuurethane caulking (sticks better than silcone). Don't drive staples tight at all on the insulated wire to hold it in place.

    Conduit is really cheap at Lowes and Home Depot. Split bolts, also available in the box stores, are not so cheap but I've never had a bad connection or had to redo one.



  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan. 16, 2002
    Location
    West Coast of Michigan
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    Default

    Split bolts are the greatest--found a gigantic hoard of them in my brother's tool box (he used to be an electrician) and made off with them with his permission--probably 100 of them. Buggers are indispensable but pricey!
    Click here before you buy.



  15. #15

    Default Tee

    Here is a detailed tutorial on how to run a hot wire under a gate. LOTS of pics and easy to follow!

    http://www.teediddlydee.com/4/post/2...tructures.html



  16. #16
    Join Date
    Nov. 6, 2002
    Location
    Henrico, NC 36 30'50.49" N 77 50'17.47" W
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    Default

    That's not the right kind of wire to run through the "conduit". Use the heavy insulated kind made for direct burial underground, but pull it through some sort of conduit so you can change it if you need to without digging it up.

    Also, that's not buried anything like deep enough for a horse gate. Over years, the ground under gates takes a beating.

    I can't think of anything I use silicone caulking on these days, other than around tubs and showers. Urethanes these days stick much better, and last much longer. You can find a good urethane caulking in Home Depot, but not where all the other caulking is. Look in the aisle where bags of concrete are. Get Sikaflex Construction Adhesive. It's where the crack repair, chimney caulking, and other caulking tubes of such stuff are in the concrete aisle.



  17. #17

    Default

    Tom King is right about needing to bury it deeper for horses....I did this same thing for where my horses are and yes I buried the garden hose about 1 1/2-2 ft deep. Using conduit is also another good idea to use to string the hot wire through, but at the time I was so poor that all I could afford to use was an old garden hose for an underground 'insulator'. All I know is it's been 7 years and my hotwire is still going strong with my cheap little garden hose 'insulator'...Necessity is the mother of invention!



  18. #18
    Join Date
    Nov. 6, 2002
    Location
    Henrico, NC 36 30'50.49" N 77 50'17.47" W
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    Wink

    I don't see anything wrong with using an old garden hose, if you have one that's otherwise useless anyway, but the main idea for using conduit in the first place is to make it easy to pull a new wire if one shorts out, without having to dig the whole thing back up. If the hose kinks on the bends up, it won't be too easy to pull a new wire with the old one.

    plastic conduit is cheap: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051

    you need a buck twenty worth of these too: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...kuId=202891057



  19. #19

    Default

    Good point Tom! If and when I ever need to replace my hotwire, I'll have to try the conduit!



  20. #20
    Join Date
    Dec. 12, 2005
    Location
    Myrtle Beach, SC
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    Default

    and you resurrected a thread from FOUR years ago why? Ohhhh, yeah, because you are promoting your own website.... looks like round about advertising to me... better becareful! That's a No No under the terms of service.
    If i'm posting on Coth, it's either raining so I can't ride or it's night time and I can't sleep.



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