Electrobraid, hands down. Love it, love it, love it. However, if you want it to break and fall in the field, you'll be disappointed. It won't break. That's part of the appeal of the stuff. I'm very much aware that opinions vary on this, but if installed properly it will keep your horses IN, and that is the reason I want fences.
The insulators I've seen are either "wire only" or "tape" or "all purpose". Electrobraid works fine in the latter two, assuming the tape ones have the little gap on the bottom where a rope fence can safely lie without being pinched.
I've used Electrobraid and loved it, too. I used standard insulators and it fit just fine- it's a little snug, but still allows for movement. I had a weanling run into it hard when being chased by a dog- he bounced right off the electrobraid with only a tiny bit of rope burn on his chest. It packed a hell of a whallop with my fencer.
I've also used the cheap electric twine and electric tape. I had 3 or 4 strands of twine strung like permanent fence. It lasted well over 5 years. I've only used electric tape (it was on sale) as one or two strands strung on temporary posts for moving a couple of older broodmares around the yard. Tape, IMO, is a bit harder to get neat and tight looking, and harder to make connections. It is a little more visible flapping in the breeze. I don't think the twine or tape is as "hot" as the electrobraid.
I also have some electrified high-tensile wire. HT, while not hard to install, does take more tools and more effort to do it right. I have 5 strands around my pond where regular fence would have been a bear to install. It's very visible, inexpensive, and should last forever. When I have the extra money, I plan to use it to replace the falling down conglomeration of old fence around my hay fields. A lot of folks will say that HT isn't appropriate for horses, but for wide open areas and mature horses I think it's an economical solution. It also carries current extremely well.
What I wouldn't recommend is regular smooth wire. It's thinner than HT, so not as visible. It breaks fairly easily, and when it does it coils up and becomes a disaster waiting to happen.
My existing white twine is old and crappy.
It was only $15 at ther local feed store for 856'. You have to touch and hold to get shocked.
Im freaking out because I just walked my fencing and it is chewed really bad, even the pressure treated posts. Its probably $2k worth of damage. I keep putting up more of the crappy electric twine. Now I have 3 strands and they are still chewing the lower part of the posts.
I want to replace the cord, but I want something that will KEEP THEM OFF my boards.
How many strands are needed (of good cord) to keep them off of board fencing?
For $2K I did my whole 4 acre paddock in Electrobraid, including posts, gates, insulators, etc. Very economical, not having to put a post every 10 feet!
I forget what the break strength of Electrobraid is, but it's way above what a horse weighs. I too have had a foal bounce off the stuff--twice--with not a scratch. The big horses know better and don't touch the fence, ever. Wouldn't want to see what wire could do to a horse hitting a fence.
I don't have any wood fences nor any chewers, but I'd think a strand of rope/wire in front of the top and bottom boards would deter all but the most determined chewers, after they got a wallop from the 8000 volts.
Shakytails, thanks for the info. Do you think the HT is much stronger then the electrobraid?
HT is absolutely stronger than Electrobraid. They say the stuff will last 50 years or better. BUT, read up on it first. You won't want to use it in small paddocks either, only larger pastures. www.kencove.com has lots of info on HT and installation.
We have miles of Horse Guard Electric Tape and have never had a fence injury. It also keeps the horses IN. We have our stallions in it as well and they won't even reach over it to touch a hot mare. We have good fencers, both the plug in kind and the kind that work off a car battery AND we have properly installed ground rods. Three of them, driven in a minimum of 6 feet and connected together. The grounding system is probably the most important part of ANY electric fence, regardless of fencer used.
I would never use Electrobraid or high tensile wire with horses. Using anything "un-breakable" and electric with horses is just a bad idea. A horse will saw it's leg off if it gets caught in unbreakable electric fence. Of course "most" horses won't ever get caught in it, but it WILL happen eventually and when it does, it is beyond horrible.
www.horseguardfence.com is affordable and it looks very good. We get many compliments on our fencing. We live in a high wind area and the horse guard does not whip in the wind. It is a "looser" weave so the wind blows through it. You can set posts 16 feet apart and you don't need "fat" posts. Ours is on 3" treated posts and they are plenty stout.
Other fencing may be cheaper, until you add in the Vet bills.
The difference is when the horse gets a leg stuck in electrobrade the insulators break, NOT the horses leg. It has a great release system and is wonderful. I have had two horses get caught in it and all that has happened is a little missing fuzz.
I have seen horses with huge puncture and nail holes from boards breaking or getting stuck in them, so I am an electrobraid fan through and through.
Electrobraid has put up $5000 of their money saying my horses won't be hurt on their fence. So far, they've kept their money and my horses have been unharmed. Don't know of any other fence company that puts their money where their mouth is.
As I always say, a horse can kill itself with a Q-tip given sufficient opportunity. We all have to choose what works for us from all of the imperfect solutions that are out there.
I considered the coated wire, but it looks like an absolute bear to install, and I'm strictly a weekend DIY-type. Those medieval "spinning jenny" things intimidated me, along with all the requirements for posts every 8-10 feet, massive tension required, etc. No thanks.