the best way to see with out hurting your horse in anyway to see
if the bit is hanging to low in his mouth,
is to hold the bridle up against the side of his head from poll position to his mouth this will give you a rough guide of where the bit should be
undo all buckles on the bridle and adjust them to that length
repeat action before you attempt to putting the bridle on
make sure all parts of any noseband straps are also adjusted to lenght and if a cavasson nose band being used make sure you can get 2 fingers under the noseband part,once its been done up
then put the bridle on- the bit should be resting in the corners of his mouths and when closed place your thumbs both sides between the bit and bridle to check the distance so its doesnt pinch - this also helps to check that you
have altered both sides of the cheek pieces evenly when measuring for the bridle fitment the horse when completed should look as if he has 1/2 wrinkles
at the corners of his mouth
always check in side his mouth for length of bit to be used and width of bit to be used
make sure that the horse has enough room around his poll and brow areas of the bridle - an ill fitted bridle can cause harm, and also effect they way of going for a horse as he wouldnt be able to use his head properly which in turn effects his balance let alone hurting in the mouth
the poll and brow areas shouldnt be to loose nor to tight - but a snug comfy fitment
the reins - make sure you use the correct length of riens for the size of the horse -
check your stirrup length so you not odd and you wont lean having the correct length helps with your position
stand to the left of the horse place your left arm outstretched with 2nd finger tip on the stirrup bar ie the bit where the stirrup leather buckle goes
then with right hand hold the stirrup tread- and pull down the length of your left arm
if the stirrup tread dont reach your arm pit and is half way up your arm its to short
if the leather reaches your armpit with the stirrup dangling its to long
the stirrup tread must reach your arm pitt-- repeat for right side
oik up a one or two holes for jumping
change over your stirrup leathers each side when cleaning so they get the same amount of wear and dont become stretch on one side as over use of dismounting and mounting from the one side of the horse
sit up straight chin up and look between your horses ears
frust the bust and distribute you weight evenly down through your back and down your elgs into your feet-- heals down and and toes forwards- if you cant turn them in sligthly forwards is fine
hands to be held evenly at pommel position -- practice holding a whip across your hands and on your thumbs and dont drop it in walk or trot
a horse will lean to one side if you odd and will lean, if you are stronger on one side
mostly people are right handed so they tend to ride as they write
so give as in you give in the side you strongest on then the horse wont advade you by being stiff on one side ,or lean on one side
the half halt for those that dont know how to perform one
start of in walk in an active walk in a straight line with your legs close to your horse sides
but without actually pushing close your fingers on the reins and then soften immdeiately so that theres no resisstence to the horses mouth and at the same time push a little firmer with both of you legs keep the contact with both reins to follow the movement the horse will you will feel the horse surge forward. to start with it takes a horse 3 or 4 strides to responed to the checks with dinky fingers
it must always be a check never ever lead into the temptation to pull or hard pull or jab the horse
start 3/4 little finger checks with dinky fingers over 3/4 strides then over 2 then over 1
and eventually into the half stride no matter how long it takes
alway proceed a half stride with an active walk trot or canter or what ever
always try to maintain rythem and out line throughout the movement and be vigilient of any advassion which could be
if your horse lifts its head or a hollows its back, or shows other signs of discomfort its most probably because your hands are set as in rather than making the signal and following the movement
in trot the movements the same again do it over 2/3 strides till mastered then do it in canter
start with check check check push push push over 2/3/4 strides
until you can go actively from a half stride
the practical side of this friendly pace along with trot is that the horse is fully balanced during different paces and change of pace is used and is one off ther basic movment in showing jumping which allow you to in form the horse as with any transition you are going to do something different - ie change of pace giving the horse a clear signal and direction
when perfromming the half halt stride it should be taught to a horse in walk and let him take a few steps in walk then down to half halt to halt theres no where else to go but stop its easier for the horse to learn and you then you can go up gears but not straight into trot
when schooling horses we have to master all the walk paces ie free walk medium walk and extended walk and using half halt stride in between changes of walk once mastered then you move up in to trot--paces ie medium trot working trot and extended trot mixing the paces between walk and trot, and then all trots and then you can add canter strides and counter canter - then mix all the strides so you moving up gears and down gears ie walk - to - canter
by using the half halt stride and using a full length of a school you can help your horse become more balanced forwards focused and straight using the the full length and width via lengthening and shortening his strides so he use his body from butt to poll to a relaxed yaw
Begin with a normal working trot to get a regular rhythm.
2. Learn in horse riding lessons how to sit and post.
3. You should practice lengthening your leg in sitting trot to provide more motion absorption.
4. The cue for an extended trot is to sit deep into the saddle and use calf pressure to encourage extension.
5. Remember that contact with the horse’s mouth is also important because you are not trying to speed up the trot but create extension of the legs.
6. Decide if you can sit the extended trot. It can be very uncomfortable and some horses have a more bouncy trot which makes it more difficult to sit.
7. Posting sometimes encourages further extension by pushing with the seat on the downswing of each post.
8. If you want to ride an extended trot make sure that you do so on the straight. Don’t try to make your horse extend on a curve it will become unbalanced and confuse the horse.
9. You should reward your horse for an extended trot by ending with a working trot and patting his neck.
Last edited by goeslikestink; Jun. 26, 2012 at 07:32 AM.
thrush comes from wet and or dirty enviroment
and if one doesnt treat it with respect then it can become secondary
its a bacterial infection which some horses are more susceptible to than others
Thrush in horses is a foul smelling bacterial infection affecting the feet. It should not be confused with canker, which is an altogether more serious infection. Fortunately, canker is rare as it is a difficult condition to cure, whereas thrush usually resolves with correct management.
Careful stable and hoof management is essential if thrush is to be prevented. As the bacteria are killed by oxygen, regular use of the hoof pick will allow air to the foot and reduce the ability of the bacteria to take hold.
Keep stables clean with plenty of good-quality, dry bedding. If horses are in for long periods, bank the beds during the day to allow them to stand on an area of clean, dry concrete.
Some horses are more susceptible to this condition than others, and foot conformation can lead to a predisposition to thrush. For example, a deep cleft in the frog may become packed with sand after working in an arena. If not carefully cleaned, this could lead to irritation and allow bacteria to enter.
The prime cause, however, is one of hygiene — standing in droppings and urine. The damp conditions of a dirty stable provide the perfect environment for the anaerobic bacteria, (those needing a low-oxygen environment) which cause thrush to flourish.
Diagnosis and treatment
The most obvious sign of thrush is a foul-smelling, black discharge from the frog, which itself may have softer spots and appear irregular in shape. The horse is unlikely to be lame unless the decay has invaded the sensitive inner tissues.
If a horse has thrush the underlying cause needs to be identified and removed. The horse should be moved to a clean, dry environment and the feet cleaned daily.
The farrier or vet will need to remove the decayed tissue, and depending on the severity of the condition, this may need to be done over more than one visit. The feet may need to be bandaged or dressed with topical medication. Every vet and farrier has their favourite remedy, most of which aim to dry out the feet.
Thrush will never resolve unless the hoof hygiene is good — it is the equine equivalent of athlete's foot. A damaged frog is the perfect entry point for the bacteria that cause tetanus, so ensure that the horse has adequate protection against this.
please understand that trush can become secondary infection if left alone or not treated on a daily basis till gone and can be very painful to a horse or any equines
please understand that you must call for a vet and farrier and have xrays done if nessescary
to see any changes to the foot /feet
Last edited by goeslikestink; Nov. 24, 2013 at 04:03 AM.
rainrot is highly contagious towards other horses if using same equipment make sure you proper hygene protocol
disinfect all equipement to include brushes hoof picks and brooms and stables
clean tack and disinfect any numnahs rugs etc n and use a foot bath on exit entry and use protective gloves when cleaning the horse
clean the wounds, as stated above and keep the horse in a dry and well ventialiated stable do not put out in the rian until the horse back has healed do not rug up until his back has healed or ride him
do use a soothing nappy rash cream which will act as a barrier against moisture when turned out during the day, also very soothing for the horse and will help the healing process you need a nappy rash cream like zinc and castor oil, or lanalin, or savalon rescue remedy cream is also ok to use all these products you can buy over the counter
please wait until the horse has healed before riding as if this is really bad consult your vet as it can be come secondary infection and will need anti botics to heal
Last edited by goeslikestink; May. 16, 2011 at 05:04 PM.