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  1. #1
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    Default helpful links

    Fitting the bridle

    the best way to see with out hurting your horse in anyway to see
    if the bit is hanging to low in his mouth,
    is to hold the bridle up against the side of his head from poll position to his mouth this will give you a rough guide of where the bit should be
    undo all buckles on the bridle and adjust them to that length
    repeat action before you attempt to putting the bridle on
    make sure all parts of any noseband straps are also adjusted to lenght and if a cavasson nose band being used make sure you can get 2 fingers under the noseband part,once its been done up
    then put the bridle on- the bit should be resting in the corners of his mouths and when closed place your thumbs both sides between the bit and bridle to check the distance so its doesnt pinch - this also helps to check that you

    have altered both sides of the cheek pieces evenly when measuring for the bridle fitment the horse when completed should look as if he has 1/2 wrinkles
    at the corners of his mouth
    always check in side his mouth for length of bit to be used and width of bit to be used
    make sure that the horse has enough room around his poll and brow areas of the bridle - an ill fitted bridle can cause harm, and also effect they way of going for a horse as he wouldnt be able to use his head properly which in turn effects his balance let alone hurting in the mouth
    the poll and brow areas shouldnt be to loose nor to tight - but a snug comfy fitment
    the reins - make sure you use the correct length of riens for the size of the horse -

    fitting the saddle
    http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&sou...mebXXQ&cad=rja

    http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&sou...Zc524A&cad=rja

    http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&sou...5Kc5RQ&cad=rja



    Dressage, hands, bits and bridle links and info

    http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&sou...VcdCdgj_FDfLmg


    http://www.meredithmanor.com/feature...t_evasions.asp

    http://www.compassionatehorsetrainin...Nosebands.html


    www.sustainabledressage.net

    http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&sou...f689njS-TBcokQ


    saddle fitting topic
    http://www.chronofhorse.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=269893



    check your stirrup length so you not odd and you wont lean having the correct length helps with your position
    so

    stand to the left of the horse place your left arm outstretched with 2nd finger tip on the stirrup bar ie the bit where the stirrup leather buckle goes
    then with right hand hold the stirrup tread- and pull down the length of your left arm
    if the stirrup tread dont reach your arm pit and is half way up your arm its to short
    if the leather reaches your armpit with the stirrup dangling its to long
    the stirrup tread must reach your arm pitt-- repeat for right side

    oik up a one or two holes for jumping
    change over your stirrup leathers each side when cleaning so they get the same amount of wear and dont become stretch on one side as over use of dismounting and mounting from the one side of the horse

    sit up straight chin up and look between your horses ears
    frust the bust and distribute you weight evenly down through your back and down your elgs into your feet-- heals down and and toes forwards- if you cant turn them in sligthly forwards is fine

    hands to be held evenly at pommel position -- practice holding a whip across your hands and on your thumbs and dont drop it in walk or trot

    a horse will lean to one side if you odd and will lean, if you are stronger on one side
    mostly people are right handed so they tend to ride as they write
    so give as in you give in the side you strongest on then the horse wont advade you by being stiff on one side ,or lean on one side



    http://www.eques.com.au/training/june/forward.htm

    jane savio topic http://www.chronicleforums.com/Forum...d.php?t=172820


    the half halt for those that dont know how to perform one

    start of in walk in an active walk in a straight line with your legs close to your horse sides
    but without actually pushing close your fingers on the reins and then soften immdeiately so that theres no resisstence to the horses mouth and at the same time push a little firmer with both of you legs keep the contact with both reins to follow the movement the horse will you will feel the horse surge forward. to start with it takes a horse 3 or 4 strides to responed to the checks with dinky fingers

    it must always be a check never ever lead into the temptation to pull or hard pull or jab the horse

    start 3/4 little finger checks with dinky fingers over 3/4 strides then over 2 then over 1
    and eventually into the half stride no matter how long it takes
    alway proceed a half stride with an active walk trot or canter or what ever
    always try to maintain rythem and out line throughout the movement and be vigilient of any advassion which could be
    if your horse lifts its head or a hollows its back, or shows other signs of discomfort its most probably because your hands are set as in rather than making the signal and following the movement

    in trot the movements the same again do it over 2/3 strides till mastered then do it in canter
    start with check check check push push push over 2/3/4 strides
    until you can go actively from a half stride

    the practical side of this friendly pace along with trot is that the horse is fully balanced during different paces and change of pace is used and is one off ther basic movment in showing jumping which allow you to in form the horse as with any transition you are going to do something different - ie change of pace giving the horse a clear signal and direction


    when perfromming the half halt stride it should be taught to a horse in walk and let him take a few steps in walk then down to half halt to halt theres no where else to go but stop its easier for the horse to learn and you then you can go up gears but not straight into trot

    when schooling horses we have to master all the walk paces ie free walk medium walk and extended walk and using half halt stride in between changes of walk once mastered then you move up in to trot--paces ie medium trot working trot and extended trot mixing the paces between walk and trot, and then all trots and then you can add canter strides and counter canter - then mix all the strides so you moving up gears and down gears ie walk - to - canter
    etc

    by using the half halt stride and using a full length of a school you can help your horse become more balanced forwards focused and straight using the the full length and width via lengthening and shortening his strides so he use his body from butt to poll to a relaxed yaw

    please add any info or helpful links


    dressage test 4h diagrams


    http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct...uDRgxw&cad=rja




    http://www.barnmice.com/video/the-connecting-half-halt


    http://www.fei.org/Disciplines/Dress...ack_28_jan.pdf


    carl hester videos triaining demos from novice to grand prix movements
    http://horseandcountry.tv/episode/ca...anor-episode-1


    how to establish an extended collected trot

    Begin with a normal working trot to get a regular rhythm.
    2. Learn in horse riding lessons how to sit and post.
    3. You should practice lengthening your leg in sitting trot to provide more motion absorption.
    4. The cue for an extended trot is to sit deep into the saddle and use calf pressure to encourage extension.
    5. Remember that contact with the horse’s mouth is also important because you are not trying to speed up the trot but create extension of the legs.
    6. Decide if you can sit the extended trot. It can be very uncomfortable and some horses have a more bouncy trot which makes it more difficult to sit.
    7. Posting sometimes encourages further extension by pushing with the seat on the downswing of each post.
    8. If you want to ride an extended trot make sure that you do so on the straight. Don’t try to make your horse extend on a curve it will become unbalanced and confuse the horse.
    9. You should reward your horse for an extended trot by ending with a working trot and patting his neck.
    Last edited by goeslikestink; Jun. 26, 2012 at 07:32 AM.



  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    Default

    Last edited by goeslikestink; Mar. 19, 2014 at 07:16 PM.



  4. #4
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  5. #5
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    Nov. 23, 1999
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    Default

    I would LOVE to be able to do those lovely plaits they do on the English hunters. Just divine.
    EDDIE WOULD GO



  6. #6
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    Default

    teaching a horse to stand still whilse being mounted from a mounting block
    by thomas 1

    http://www.themanestreet.com/forums/...and#post424618
    Last edited by goeslikestink; Nov. 24, 2013 at 04:02 AM.



  7. #7
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    thrush

    thrush comes from wet and or dirty enviroment
    and if one doesnt treat it with respect then it can become secondary

    its a bacterial infection which some horses are more susceptible to than others
    Thrush in horses is a foul smelling bacterial infection affecting the feet. It should not be confused with canker, which is an altogether more serious infection. Fortunately, canker is rare as it is a difficult condition to cure, whereas thrush usually resolves with correct management.

    Careful stable and hoof management is essential if thrush is to be prevented. As the bacteria are killed by oxygen, regular use of the hoof pick will allow air to the foot and reduce the ability of the bacteria to take hold.

    Keep stables clean with plenty of good-quality, dry bedding. If horses are in for long periods, bank the beds during the day to allow them to stand on an area of clean, dry concrete.

    Some horses are more susceptible to this condition than others, and foot conformation can lead to a predisposition to thrush. For example, a deep cleft in the frog may become packed with sand after working in an arena. If not carefully cleaned, this could lead to irritation and allow bacteria to enter.

    The prime cause, however, is one of hygiene — standing in droppings and urine. The damp conditions of a dirty stable provide the perfect environment for the anaerobic bacteria, (those needing a low-oxygen environment) which cause thrush to flourish.

    Diagnosis and treatment

    The most obvious sign of thrush is a foul-smelling, black discharge from the frog, which itself may have softer spots and appear irregular in shape. The horse is unlikely to be lame unless the decay has invaded the sensitive inner tissues.

    If a horse has thrush the underlying cause needs to be identified and removed. The horse should be moved to a clean, dry environment and the feet cleaned daily.

    The farrier or vet will need to remove the decayed tissue, and depending on the severity of the condition, this may need to be done over more than one visit. The feet may need to be bandaged or dressed with topical medication. Every vet and farrier has their favourite remedy, most of which aim to dry out the feet.

    Thrush will never resolve unless the hoof hygiene is good — it is the equine equivalent of athlete's foot. A damaged frog is the perfect entry point for the bacteria that cause tetanus, so ensure that the horse has adequate protection against this.


    please understand that trush can become secondary infection if left alone or not treated on a daily basis till gone and can be very painful to a horse or any equines
    please understand that you must call for a vet and farrier and have xrays done if nessescary
    to see any changes to the foot /feet
    Last edited by goeslikestink; Nov. 24, 2013 at 04:03 AM.



  8. #8
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  9. #9
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  10. #10
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    Default other helpful training tips

    Last edited by goeslikestink; Oct. 7, 2010 at 02:55 AM.



  11. #11
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    Default

    Last edited by goeslikestink; Aug. 29, 2010 at 08:27 PM.



  12. #12
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    how to leg yeild correctly

    video by horse and country
    http://www.horseandcountry.tv/ask-th...-how-leg-yield

    hhow to prepare your horse for x/c with sharon hunt
    http://www.horseandcountry.tv/sharon_hunt_cross_country



  13. #13
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    http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&sou...zc8Qng&cad=rja

    rainrot is highly contagious towards other horses if using same equipment make sure you proper hygene protocol
    disinfect all equipement to include brushes hoof picks and brooms and stables
    clean tack and disinfect any numnahs rugs etc n and use a foot bath on exit entry and use protective gloves when cleaning the horse

    clean the wounds, as stated above and keep the horse in a dry and well ventialiated stable do not put out in the rian until the horse back has healed do not rug up until his back has healed or ride him

    do use a soothing nappy rash cream which will act as a barrier against moisture when turned out during the day, also very soothing for the horse and will help the healing process you need a nappy rash cream like zinc and castor oil, or lanalin, or savalon rescue remedy cream is also ok to use all these products you can buy over the counter

    please wait until the horse has healed before riding as if this is really bad consult your vet as it can be come secondary infection and will need anti botics to heal
    Last edited by goeslikestink; May. 16, 2011 at 05:04 PM.



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