A thing to remember that when using any pelham with a broken mouthpiece (even 1 jointed) is that they will collapse in the horse's mouth so that the curb chain is too loose to work when you want to use the pelham rein. There was a discussion about this on the H/J forum not very long ago.
Also, just curious, I've seen alot of people using the connectors for the pelham so they don't have to worry about the extra rein. I use 2 reins, but would you recommend to do this for hunting? I can see where it would be easier for the rider, but I'm not sure about the signal it would send to the horse.
God, now that I'm back on my fire breathing dragon instead of riding my MFH's 4yo TB that thinks on his first few hunts ever that hes a pro, and hunts 1st field in a rubber snaffle on the buckle (so great, but I can't buy him because I can't hunt 2 horses at once), I've been getting in much better shape. I have to steer with my legs around trees so Blitz doesn't run into them, and actually pull back on the reins. In the fields at a walk I'm constantly telling him "don't embarrass mommy" since he grinds his teeth and praces around and causes staring
I am not a foxhunter, but a retired hunter/eq rider turned pleasure/trail rider. However, I am becoming interested in hunting since it is the basis of the hunter show world and have been reading some great horsey mysteries by Rita Mae Brown of Virginia. Anyway, I just had some thoughts on your problem- have you ever watched or read any of Clinton Anderson or Chris Cox's training shows/books? Although they ride Western, I have watched them have great success with all manner of English riders - dressage to eventing. The tool I use in training my green colt not to pull on the trail is the one rein stop. Basically you teach the horse lateral flexion on the ground, then under saddle. When the horse pulls, you use one rein to pull their head around to your knee or ankle, wherever is comes on your leg. Once the horse stops and gives, you continue on. The first time I did this with my young horse, I must have one reined him at least 50 times! But he gets better every time we go out. Of course, the trick is to teach this lesson before you get in the excited atmosphere of the hunt field. Let me know if you have tried this or anything like it and what the results were. Thanks for letting me post on the hunting thread. I am learning a lot by reading the posts.
Well, in that case, I used to show my JR/AO hunter in a custom bit made by James Shuttleworth, I think his name was. It was a single joint snaffle, slow twist sweet iron barrel with a port. It only took a touch to lift my horse's head. He was fine at home - went in a plain rubber snaffle - but would sometimes get up at the shows. This bit was our ace in the hole to get his attention without getting in his face. The great thing about having a Shuttleworth bit was once you bought one, you could trade it for another at little to no cost. But I have been off the circuit for 10 years so I have no idea where or if they are still available.
joyshorse -- they are, but I understand that you need to order one and be prepared to wait, but they are very nice bits.
I also used a waterford on my big QH that pulled and preferred for you to carry his head. In fact, that is such a good suggestion that I may try that out next on my TB that is transitioning from eventing to endurance. Right after I go take four more ibuprofen and sleep for two days after riding him on a training ride today. My arm muscles are going to be so buff after riding this little monster out.
When I was showing, there were several tack shops that were at most of the East Coast shows and carried quite a selection of Shuttleworth bits. If you bought one from one of those shops, you could then trade for something else, if needed. The two I remember were Judy's and The Equestrian Sho