Best Horse-Care Tips

[JAGold]

Ok, we all have them...those little secrets that save time at home or add that special touch at a show...A couple of my favorites:

1) Fake-fleece mitts, designed for washing cars, make the best buffing cloths I've ever found for high boots--use after a regular rag for extra shine.

2) Baby wipes--for any and all last-minute touch-ups at the ring. Particularly good for removing manure spots from grey horses...

3) Hooks and snaps. I bring extra bucket hooks, double ended snaps, and the like to shows--and always wind up using them for something!

4) Tupperware and ziplock bags. A place for everything and everything in its place /infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

5) Put a small rag over the toe of your left boot when mounting a light colored horse, it will prevent a smudge mark on the horse's shoulder...

6) Even at home, I pre-bag a week's worth of grain/supplements in either ziplock or brown paper bags (at the barn here at school, we are responsible for graining our own horses). Preparing it in advance means I'm less likely to forget electrolytes or something and will know well in advance when I'm low on feed. Saves me time, too.

What good tricks does everyone else have?

Jess

[JAGold]

Ok, we all have them...those little secrets that save time at home or add that special touch at a show...A couple of my favorites:

1) Fake-fleece mitts, designed for washing cars, make the best buffing cloths I've ever found for high boots--use after a regular rag for extra shine.

2) Baby wipes--for any and all last-minute touch-ups at the ring. Particularly good for removing manure spots from grey horses...

3) Hooks and snaps. I bring extra bucket hooks, double ended snaps, and the like to shows--and always wind up using them for something!

4) Tupperware and ziplock bags. A place for everything and everything in its place /infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

5) Put a small rag over the toe of your left boot when mounting a light colored horse, it will prevent a smudge mark on the horse's shoulder...

6) Even at home, I pre-bag a week's worth of grain/supplements in either ziplock or brown paper bags (at the barn here at school, we are responsible for graining our own horses). Preparing it in advance means I'm less likely to forget electrolytes or something and will know well in advance when I'm low on feed. Saves me time, too.

What good tricks does everyone else have?

Jess

[marianne]

Cloth unfolded diapers. Good for just about everything and does not leave lint like terry cloth towels. You get a doz in a package.

[Louise]

Infusium 23 for your horse's tail. Comb in, leave on, tail gets full and healthy without that overly shiney, slick look that Show Sheen can leave.

[Paris]

Old pantyhose are great for buffing boots. Sounds weird but it works. Also, if you have trouble putting on tight boots, try putting a plastic sack (from the grocerty store) over your foot and leg, then pull on the boots. They go right on!

[Flash44]

Cornstarch in your boots works well if they are tight.

[Jaysee]

Believe it or not, WINDEX works great at getting manure stains off of gray horses, and it doesn't irritate their skin. Saves lots of time in the wash rack!!!

[HunterPonyRider]

I like this thread! Well, I have to groom a lot. I have a bay who loves to be dirty and a grey who likes to stay clean[er]. http://www.chronofhorse.com/ubb/rolleyes.gif

* Baby powder: It's great for touching up socks/white facial markings.
* Vaseline: Makes chestnuts easier to pick. If your horse has scars, it makes them look alittle better, too.
* Baby oil: I won't give a bath without it! Mix it in with rinse water to make coats shinier and softer. Use it when you clip a bridle path too. It gets rid of that chalky, just-cut look.
* Tack products with beeswax: It softens leather great! It also adds a great shine to boots.

[VWScully]

Hi;
These are great ideas. Here is another one that may seem odd but I have done it for years. I can't afford those fancy boot bags, so take my high boots to shows in a pillow case! It keeps them clean, is easy to carry and recognizable in my tack trunk!

[Look Up,Shorten Reins]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by VWScully:
Hi;
These are great ideas. Here is another one that may seem odd but I have done it for years. I can't afford those fancy boot bags, so take my high boots to shows in a pillow case! It keeps them clean, is easy to carry and recognizable in my tack trunk!<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Does anyone know of anything that will help with those miserable "scratches" that are so common on white ankles and legs, besides Panalog.....Panalog is expensive and sometimes works and sometimes doesn't.....and for $80 a bottle......IT SHOULD WORK!!! I don't know if anyone has a home remedy that they learned from an old horseman........sometimes they are the best!(both the remedies and the old horsement!!!!HAHAHA)

[RZ]

There are various scratches remedies:

Mixture of Dexetin and Furazone
Wash legs with Selsun Blue shampoo
Dry legs thoroughly after every bath (use towel)
Unfortunately, I'd also add Panalog as an ointment, it does seem to work, however it is expensive.
There are other ointments vets can give you such as Otomax (similar to Panalog but a bit stronger)
Keep legs clean and dry.

Good luck.

[Flash44]

Look Up - you can get Dermalone from a vet, which is just like Panalog except you can get it in a small $10 tube.

To heal acute scratches - NEVER get the horse's legs wet. Water is a huge factor in aggravating the condition.

If your horse must get turned out or bathed, apply TONS of Healex to the affected area to completely seal it off from the water/mud.

Do the horse up in Panalog/Dermalone using pastern bandages or Vetwrap around the whole foot, just don't do the Vetwrap too tight.

[Regalmeans]

Some of my tips

- keep sponges with traces of Lexol on them in your grooming kit for quick swipes at tack and boots

-little tupperware containers are great for storing horse treats, or other little things like extra bit keepers etc.

-THE LIST - a computer spread sheet which lists all the chores I have to do before a show- all the things to wash and exactly what to pack. Print it out- cross off what is seasonally inappropriate (IE blankets in summer) or not needed, then check off chores as you do them and items as you pack them. Works like a charm- as long as it's on the list you should remember it!

- and - my fav- always, always, always bring extra towels or cloths - they are good from everything from making a horse shine to buffing to bandaging.

~S.

[Just My Style]

I was told years and years ago that you should use newspaper to buff up all of your bits, spurs, stirrups, etc. Wash all items with soap and water, then shine with newspaper. It makes everything really bright and it is safer to use than any kind of polish (especially near the bit section that is in the horses mouth).

[Duffy]

Back to Boot care. . .For many of us, these are a huge investment and thus, most be treated as such - also, because shiny, polished boots look so much nicer:
- Only use galoushes (sp) (rubbers) when absolutely necessary - i.e. extremely muddy - and if you do, make sure they are clean on the inside - just a titch of dirt/sand inside will damage your boots - they also rub the finish you've worked so hard to put on that toe. (You also won't have to keep buying new ones so often when you leave them at the ring.)
- The old cloth baby diapers work great - also the old nylon sock
- I made boot bag "liners" out of old flannel sheets with a drawstring at the top - they are actually buffing my boots when being moved around - not just protecting them - I then put those in the nylon boot bags in my trainers' colors. Make sure your tabs at the top of the boots end up facing down when you slide the boots into the liners.
- Don't put your boots away sweaty and muddy!!! Even if you won't have time to polish til the next show - make sure they are at least clean - just a damp sponge/towel - NO SADDLE SOAP EVER
- Try not to leave in a hot/steamy, closed up car to too much time, i.e., don't leave in any environment you wouldn't leave your saddle/bridle/chaps in, if possible.

Anyway, these ideas work for me. I hope I don't sound like a total boot geek (even if I am. . )

- Oh - forgot one - not on boot care - but on getting more than snug ones on - spray that silicone stray on your calves before pulling on your boots. Also, when you get measured - or if you already have, it's worth a try - put on a thin cotton (or whatever is your preference) ankle or so high sock underneath your nylon knee-high. Helps for warmth, comfort and rubs.

[mac_legs]

Hi,
I really don't take very good care of my boots, I always forget to clean them. At least they stay somewhere warm in winter, cool in summer. Duffy, or anybody else, why shouldn't you use saddle soap on your boots?

[Duffy]

Hi mac_legs - I don't use saddle soap on my boots because it ruins the shine, thereby negating all my hard work to get them that way. I'm sure it's not bad for the leather, but I've found it makes them tacky and hard to polish.

I love the ideas on this thread! I definately second bringing those double-ended snaps, extras! I also ration out seam rippers and hoofpicks. If I put all of them in my trunk at once, they'd be gone in the course of a show or two. So, I keep my extra stash in my car/garage and bring those little supplies out one by one. I find that way people "borrowing" them end up taking better care of them. They seem to end up back in my trunk more often than not. That goes for ear poms as well.

[This message has been edited by Duffy (edited 03-05-2000).]

[barngirl]

Another good thing to use to treat scratches on legs is Destin... it works great on white areas as it whites and protects...
I am not usually one to be brand loyal, but I shampoo with anything but Quic Color ( works on my grey with black flea bits and an colored horse. And it really works.. And it does great on helping a sunburnt coat look much better!!!) Though I do sometimes use Orvus as it is not only econmical, but gentle and works in hot and cold water. Word of advice with orvus.. add to a full bucket of water... otherwise its suds city!!!
After trying several shine enhancer products I still prefer Show Sheen... ya gott be careful around the saddle area, but nothing keeps stains and dirt away better.
And while winter seems to be over at least here in Michigan... vaseline, or cooking spray on the soles of hooves helps keep snowballs away.
I also always pack extra lead ropes and most importantly halters for shows. You never know when you or a friend will need them.
And while it may look a little odd.. I have found that once dress a pair of nylon soccer shorts... the baggy style wokrs well in keeping stains off britches... and a light weight oxford shirts protects your hunt shirt. The shorts are easy to pull off and light wieght enough in summer to keep heat stroke away!!!

[Look Up,Shorten Reins]

Thanks for the info on scratches.....I will try the suggestions.....I have learned to always dry the legs....however, I've read in my veterinary book that you must also keep the areas affected clean...so you have to wash them.......drying though is imperative.
Thanks again!

[JB]

LookUp, Shorten Reins - Definitely give the Desitin a try. Actually, got WalMart or Target - their generic brand is much cheaper. Get the kind with 40% zinc oxide though, not the 10%. Personally, I think you should quit washing altogether - you're just re-introducing the moisture you're trying to avoid, and it's really, really hard to get them completely dry afterwards. Just give the whites a really good, close shave (tranq if you have too), and liberally apply the ointment twice a day. Re-shave every 3-4 weeks. If you are just dealing with scabs, the desitin should do the trick. If they scabs are oozing and/or bleeding though, mixing in some furazone is a good idea. I've been dealing with this nasty stuff since August with Rio - we used Cyt-Oxyl, "dew poisoning" ointment, you name it - all a waste of my money. Desitin starting working in a matter of weeks. Good luck with this - what a pain in the @$$.

[maybelline]

cytoxyl is great for scratches or the florida crud. you can get it from your vet and it works really quickly. my pony had the florida crud last year and i used cytoxyl for two days and it was gone and she won the maodel that weekend!! the crud just disapeared.

[TequilaSun]

Hi,

Use baby oil on the face instead of a commercially bought highliter. It works the same (usually just on chestnut or dark coloured faces) and costs about 99 cents a bottle, versus $20 a bottle.

Also, when it's one of those really rainy, mucky days at a show, put tear-aways on overtop of your breeches and boots while you're warming up. Then when you're in the in-gate, just rip off the tear-aways (you don't even have to dismount) and your breeches and boots will be spotless. It looks sort of tacky, but it's what you look like in the ring that counts, nobody really cares what you look like while you're warming up.

[Lionheart]

here's a great one... put liquid liniment or rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle and spray on legs to keep from getting all over your hands. nothings worse than rubbing in some liniment and then touching your face/eyes! http://www.chronofhorse.com/ubb/eek.gif

I dont understand the "highlighting" with baby oil? what does this do exactly? I'm an eventer who is going to go to a few hunter/jumper shows this year.

[Jumphigh83]

The "scratches" question...I use teat infusion medication made of water soluable penicillin or some type of antibiotic. You can get them at farm stores, they have one for "dry cows" and one for "wet cows". Either one works great and you can 'cover' the product with a bag balm type ointment to seal the product in and the wet and dirt out. I have found this to be an inexpensive alternative to the more costly vet meds AND it seems to work as well or better. Good luck with your scratches!

[FifteenOne]

I've found that an applicator mitt is a great way to apply fly spray to my horse's face. I spray the mitt w/fly spray and can then just rub it all over his face (out of the eyes of course!) - he thinks he's getting a mini-massage and I don't end up w/fly spray everywhere but where I wanted it to go. Tack In The Box used to sell a great sheepskin mitt - that's what I'm using now - it's soft and the strap fits right over the fly spray bottle so I never lose it.

[Flash44]

Lionheart - the most important part of putting liniment on your horse's legs is massaging it in! Ya gotta get your hands in it.

[HuntJumpSC]

OK, time for my 2 cents!!! /infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

***Afrosheen, YES, that's right, is a great spray in conditioner for manes, tails & coats. It's the exact same thing as World Champion Pepi, it smells great & is ALOT cheaper, it runs around $3 a can at your local WalMart or beauty supply. Look for it in the "ethnic" hair section. Best ones, in order: Alternatives (in a green can), TCB (in a tan can) & Isoplus (in a royal blue can). make sure you buy the conditioning spray & not the holding, or you'll have a sticky mess! http://www.chronofhorse.com/ubb/tongue.gif Also, use it sparingly on your horses coat, too much attracts dust, but for manes & tails, be as generous as you like!
***Shimmer Lights~ This is the "old lady" shampoo by Clairol, it's just like Quiksilver (thick & purple), but a lot more economical. You can get a large pump dispenser bottle at places like Sally Beauty Supply for around $14. I swear by this stuff for getting whites & greys sparkling~ I used it religiously when I rode in a dinner show for 6 years.
Hope ya'll like my suggestions! /infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif SUZ

[Saltadora]

*Put all your silver stuff(bits, stirrups etc.) in the dishwasher to get them really clean!
*Toothbrushes work great too for silver and leather.
*At my barn we use thin quilted square saddle pads that are washed after each use to stop the spreading of fungus.
*As for the scratches problem, clipping + desitin or tinactin(athlete foot spray...less mess to apply) works great. use polos intead of neoprene boots to allow the area to breathe...wash polos after each use.
*those small tack sponges are great for applying baby oil to faces.
*I prefer nylon sheets to cotton... they are much more durable and "polish" my horses' coats.

[barngirl]

Lionheart... many hunters go in the show ring ( I beleive mainly conformation classes) with highlights around the eyes and muzzles to help make the horse have that extra sparkle for the judge. It is especially important on Horses who have a lot of dark skin as left to its natural state it can tend to look dull and dry. If you are not going in any major hunter classes or confirmation classes I wouldn't worry about it.
Flash44, I agree that the most important part of liniment is rubbing it in, but I have used a spray bottle to get the liniment where I want it to go. It save liniment,, as more ends up even applied to the targetted area and less in a puddle around the hoof! I still rub it in by hand.
I do recommend latex gloves for applying poltice though it makes clean-up a little easier.
My favorite first aid item is Hydrogen peroxide. I know it can bleach a dark coat, but whenever I have had nasty puncture or other wounds not-serious-enough-for-stitches... i have had much faster healing time and less infection. Again you have to be careful about bleaching a dark horse, but if the wound is nasty.. I would rather have to body clip than wait months for a wound to heal.


[This message has been edited by barngirl (edited 03-16-2000).]

[Flrider]

My vet sells a secret concoction for the scratches that will clear it up quicker than anything else. Trust me, a grey with pink legs who seemed to get it all the time. I have tried it all! The only ingredients I have figured out at this point is furacin and dmso. There is something else in there I'm quite sure, but my vet is very tight lipped about it. This mixture has served him well. Any ideas?
D.

[JB]

Flrider - could part of that "concoction" be a wormer, such as Safeguard, with fenbendazole? That was something my vet suggested trying, mixing it with the Desitin. She also had a recipe that included this, as well as DMSO and some other stuff.

[Twister]

Vinegar... A glug into the drinking water and mixed with the rinse water instead of linement to prevent crud.

[Kellybird]

Aside from being the world's foremost authority on catalogs, not doing English essays when I should, Girl Scout Thin Mints, and mint chip ice cream, I also am the most fanatic boot cleaner ever. /infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif Even on my super-cheapo first boots, I creamed/waxed and polished them every time I rode, and almost before every class...well, maybe not THAT much.

Anyway, I won't go into my long and involved tirade on how to clean boots, but I'll give a great tip. Ya know that annoying line you get, right above the sole of the boot, but not high enough to cover with polish? Seems impossible to get, and it'll bug the heck out of you when you think you've done the best polish job, just cause it shows, and you can't do anything about it! Weeelllll... take a boot brush--the kind you buy in a grocery store, just your average natural fiber boot brush, and some wax polish. Brush the EDGE whiskers of the brush through the polish, till you get just a tiny bit on them. Now briskly run the edge of the brush into the little space above the sole--"the forbidden land of polish" I call it. Viola! The annoying line of dust is gone, your boots will appear twice as clean, just cause nobody sees any part that's NOT black, and you feel like you've really won the battle of dirt. :þ

OK, maybe there is something really wrong with me that I find that so satisfying... /infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

Hope somebody enjoys that,
Ciao

[Kate]

Kellybird:
I'm interested in hearing your tirade on boot cleaning! /infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif Thanks!

[Duffy]

Hi Kellybird - Thin Mint Girl Scout Cookies and Boot Care - I thought I was the only one. I buy the cookies by the case and freeze some for later in the year. And boot care. . . . .if you think you're a titch fanatical, you should see my earlier post on this thread (3/5).

[JB]

Thin Mints in the freezer - yes! I too have done Kellybird's "forbidden land of polish" bannisher, but with a toothbrush. A toothbrush is also used to run leather cleaner in there too, getting the dirt out but good.

[Kellybird]

Hey, when ya'll fall asleep half-way through, just remember, you ASKED to see this... /infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif This whole thing is gonna make me sound like the biggest neat-freak ever, which I am FAR from, LOL.

OK, deep breath~~
1. Get stuff--jar of BLACK cream polish. Tin of BLACK wax polish. One of those cheap, sponge-tip polish bottles with BLACK polish. An old cheap dishrag or semi-soft towel/t-chirt, whatever. A soft cloth, like a fake chamois or something. Semi-stiff/soft boot brush.

~~between these steps do the little brush in the crevice trick above to remove the dirt line--if you do that AFTER you finish polishing, you'll mess up all your work polishing the boots.~~

2. rub off any large dirt clods or any other major pieces on the boots, so that all the stuff left is "cover-able" or removeable with polish.
3. Take that polish-in-a-bottle junk and cover all the discolored spots or stains on the boots. This doesn't leave a shine, but it does cover and color well, so use it under the other stuff.
4. Take the rougher of the two cloths, and get a fair amount of wax polish on it--wax polish, not liquid or anything, it's leaves a weird film--wax also leaves a pretty mice sheen. Rub the polish over the whole boot, especially in the lacing area, and where the boots have wrinkled. Don't cake it on, just enough to even the color and "pretty 'em up."
5. Find a clean spot on the rag, and go back over the boot to remove excess polish, and to help work it in and even the color. This also helps to prevent clods of polish in crevices and stuff--not a fun thing to find some leftover polish redeposited on your freshly drycleaned TS!
6. Now take the cream polish on a rag--NOT a lot, a little goes a LONG way--and use it on the toe cap, panels around the lacings, spur rests--yes I said SPUR RESTS-- swagger tabs if you have them, maybe heel area, but DEFINITELY the toes. Rub it in really well, and then DON'T touch it. Your fingerprints will destroy all the work you do. /infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif
7. Now, you get to use the soft cloth. Take it like a shoe-shiner would, one end in each hand, and run it up and down the leg, buffer style. If you can't do the "shiner shimmy" yourself, have someone else do it, it really does make the legs GLEAM. Now buff the foot part, especially the heels, and when you are completely finshed, do the toes. Rub them gently at first, then do a really fast, nice job of buffing the toe caps. If you can get your arms coordinated enough, they come out looking AWESOME. If not, just rub them off well with the soft cloth, and they should be fine.

~~If you have spurs, do the leather spurs traps also, you'd be amazed how bad non-polished straps can look next to well-polished boots. Also, get the EDGES of the straps--they tend to be lighter in color, but you can polish them and make them black. When you put the straps on, carefully tighten them so you don't muss up the boot polish job also. (I sound so anal, don't I?)~~

Now for the most important part--wear boot rubbers and CLEAN THEM OUT!!! All the work you do to clean the boots will mean diddly if you slap on some scuzzy rubbers, so dump them out, and then wash them, and then DRY them. Fold the heels inside-out, place your toe into them, then ease the heel onto your foot. If you keep yourself from just stretching them on, it'll help to keep your boots looking great till that last swipe before the ring. And, if you really want to do a great swipe down before the ring, use the boot BRUSH, not just a chamois/cloth, and really pay attention to the backs of the boots, where they touch the horse. This area gets gross and dingy fast, so swipe it down, and make sure to remove sweat marks from the horse, cause they have a way of jumping to your legs right before the announcer utters the magic phrase, "Numbers to the judge..." You'd be amazed what you see on your leg from the back. /infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

OK, now for a few dont's~~
Don't use saddle soap--it's makes them sticky, and just not shiny--feels gross, plus boot leather is different from saddle leather, not too good for it.
Don't use leather conditioner on the parts that shouldn't be wrinkled--It really does contribute to leather wearing out faster, plus they'll start to lose their shape, and it just doesn't do any good.
Don't use cheap stuff--that sounds elitest, but if you really want to take care of your nice boots, use nice stuff. (Not saying you need to purchase only Vogel boot oil, but I wouldn't recommend grocery-store brand polish either, haha.

Bottom line--take care of your boots--waterproof the seams too, if you can--and they'll look great for years. Hope that I haven't just bored you all out of your minds. Heeheee...

OH, Thin Mint cookies--I'll make everybody jealous now--My mom loves me so much, she bought us about 6 gallons of Thin Mint Cookie ice cream...if you all don't have the joy of Edy's ice cream, I'll enlighten you: At Girl Scout cookie tiem, they make limited edition flavors; Thin Mint Cookie, and this year Samoa Vanilla. Thin mint cookie is CHOCOLATE ice cream with actual thin mints crumbled and whole in it--true definition of "devil's food." Samoa Vanilla is vanilla ice cream with Samoas..enough said.

Are ya'll drooling yet? /infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

OK, wow that was long enough--hope ya enjoyed it.

Ciao,
KBird pony_scribb1er@hotmail.com

[This message has been edited by Kellybird (edited 03-17-2000).]

[Kellybird]

hmm, all that work and no one's interested. *sniff* Heehee, maybe everyone's already trying to follow the system--knee-deep in polish, covered in black staind, but dang! the boots look good.

Or maybe they're just gorging on ice cream, like me, LOL.

[Small Change]

For scratches, the best thing you can do is wash the horses heels with an iodine based shampoo, and then thoroughly dry them. To get them dry, use a regular hair dryer if the horse will let you, or towel dry if it won't. Apply a good ointment, like furason (sp?) or panalog to them, and rub in well. After rubbing, add another layer. Top it off with a strip of brown paper (no dyes or bleaches!) to keep your bandage clean, and wrap well with cotton padding and vet wrap. Top this off with an optional duct tape layer to keep everything dry and in place.

[Kate]

Thanks KellyBird, quite a routine you have there!

[Tap2Tango]

Kellybird!!! I love your boot cleaning routine. I can't wait to do it and impress my mom. She says I never take good care of my boots.(okay...maybe I don't take the best care of them...)
I'll have to get some of that ice cream!!

[Kellybird]

LOL, glad I helped. Get the ice cream, clean the boots, impress your mom, fall asleep from exhaustion reading that thing, ya know, it all works.

Ciao,
KBird /infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif
pony_scribb1er@hotmail.com

[tbhunter36]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Lionheart:
here's a great one... put liquid liniment or rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle and spray on legs to keep from getting all over your hands. nothings worse than rubbing in some liniment and then touching your face/eyes! http://www.chronofhorse.com/ubb/eek.gif
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

This sounds like a good idea, i hate it in teh winter when my hands go numb from the liniment. But I was always taught that it is the rubbing it in that counts when bracing. So is spraying it on as effective as massaging it in, even though your hands are falling asleep??

[JB]

tbhunter36 - yes, rubbing it in is 1/2 the equation. Why not get either some dishwashing gloves, or a box of disposable plastic ones? Then you can rub in, and still be able to feel your hands!

[Flash44]

If the liniment is that cold, seal it tightly and drop it in a bucket of warm water for a few minutes before you use it.

[Lionheart]

Sorry, i'd never heard that rubbing it in was half the equation. Oh well, my horse doesnt seem to have suffered any ill effects of not rubbing it in.

[HuntJumpSC]

Hey, Kellybird~ That Girl Scout thin mint ice cream sounds great! Have you tried the Edy's Grand Ice Cream Sandwich Ice Cream? That stuff is TO DIE FOR! It's got hunks of ice cream sandwiches in it, ya' know, like the cheap ones that stick to the roof of your mouth! MMMMMMM! Looks like I'm making a trip to town now! /infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif Thanks for the boot polishing tips~ just in time! http://www.chronofhorse.com/ubb/tongue.gif SUZ

[Dolce Vita]

My tip is have one of those sticky roller things...They are on a handle and they are great at getting up the chestnut hairs that show up great on your navy blue coat /infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

[Saltadora]

if you don't have one off those sticky rollers, use masking tape wraped around your hand....That ice cream sandwich ice cream is making my tummy growl and i just finished diner...the best time for dessert?

kellybird-I too am an authority for catalooges...I have just about everone momorized, I sit and look for the best prices for hours on end LOL /infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

[Gry2Yng]

Here are my tips for getting the whites, white. I have a big grey and spend a lot of time in the wash rack, but always get lots of complements, both show days and non, on how well groomed and sparkling white he is.

First, to take out yellowish stains in mane and tail. I start my bath with the mane and tail by washing out all the generic dirt with Orvus. I really get into the dock and the crest. Next, there are many shampoos on the market for people with grey hair, since I have grey hair, the horse and I share a bottle. It is purple. The key is to leave the shampoo in for a few minutes to let it penetrate the shaft of the hair. I start on the legs while the shampoo soaks in.

To begin on the legs I pull out the trusty bar of Ivory Soap. I learned this trick from my dad. The horses love it because they get a really good rub down on their lower legs and the ivory really gets 'em white. I soak the leg, lather up with the bar soap, message and rinse. I do this two or three times as needed.

Then back to the mane/tail for a rinse and then a lather with the Ivory bar soap.

Then I do the body with Orvus and a Grooma. I dip the grooma in the Orvus and message it in, rinse repeat as necessary.

Once my guy is sparkling white I hit him hard with the coat polish to repel stain. Finally, I take the Ivory soap with me to the show and if he gets a manure stain, I wet the stain, scrub with the Ivory and rinse. The stain will come right out, I do even the REALLY big green spots this way.

But keep in mind, when searching for my second horse, which came home last week, one of the criteria was that he did not have a white hair on him! And I found one!!!!!!! God I hate the wash rack at 11pm the night before a show.

[barngirl]

Maybe I am weird, and maybe its due to my thumb still healing from when I sprained ity this summer, but I like the liniment on my hands. Infact the last time I reinjured my thumb... I ran to my tack box and rubbed the liniment in... it did wonders for keeping the swelling down!!!
I do use the dishwashing gloves for when I apply a really strong rub-down, like DMSO... and the nice thing about those types of gloves is that they usually come ribbed... so it seems to me that the rub down is a little more invigorating and stimulating.
I also definately agree about the lint remover rollers. They are great. I will definately need one this show season with two grays!!!!

[Skipper]

Just to continue with the icecream tangent...Ben + Jerry's has a new flavor "Candybar Crunch" which is awesome.

[Baltic Sky]

When I got my TB mare, she had the worst case of scratches I have ever seen. I used a product called "Axenohl" and I was amazed how well this spray worked, not only on the scratches, but on other wounds and skin problems,as well. This product is a spray developed for use in water purification for developing countries. It is a silver-citrate and ionized water compound that has been tested for toxicity to many microorganisms. This product may only be in Florida, but let me tell you, it works!!! Check out the web page (read around the chemical uses,formula etc, go to equine applications) http://www.eti-net.com/axen.htm
Now I use it as prevention, and haven't had a scratches problem since. I also used Desitin and zinc oxide creme to get rid of the flaky skin. (Generic zinc-ox creme cheaper) When it rains, for prevention I use the Axenohl spray, let dry and apply the zinc ointment as a water-barrier.

[sjh]

I have to totally agree with who ever said that old nylons make boots shine. I have a relatively cheap pair of boots but the nylons make them shine like nothing else. I happen to like Vetrolin Shine more than Show Sheen because it makes my chestnut spakle and it smells better than show sheen, and is cheaper too. As for the use of desiten, I agree. It has been used successfully on many horses at the stable I board at. Baby powder also helps get tight boots on when it is like 90 degrees out and it also keeps you from sweating in your boots.

Well, I don't have any good "do" tips, but I have some "do nots".

Do not try to economize on doing laundry at pay washing machines while at a horse show hotel by washing your horse's scrim sheets with your underwear. Horse hair is itchy.

Do not wash your horse's navy blue shipping overwraps with your white t-shirts. No one looks their best in fairy blue.

Do not harass the rookie EMT at the horse show (who takes his job very seriously and believes he there ONLY for major injuries) for Advil when you are suddenly overcome by horrific cramps. Better to keep some in your tack trunk.

Do not throw away carrot bags that will make excellent ice packs when your spooky horse drops you on a rolltop.

Do not assume that because you know the horse show starts at eight everyone else does and will therefore be ready to go in the ring like you are.

Oh, I do have one do. For the horse that pulls off his wraps overnight (like one of mine who then pees on them) sprinkle some hot cajun pepper on the outsides of the wraps for a while. They will learn not to pull them off, and you can stop with the pepper. Be sure they have plenty of water...

[Duffy]

Alexandra - Those were Great!!! Made me Smile. . .Thanks!

[Just My Style]

Question about Orvus:
I was told a long time ago not to use Orvus on anything breathing- literally. Apparently it was first designed as an industrial cleaner (as in factory floors & waste, etc.) I do know of someone who used it on their gray and it burned patches of hair off. (Could have just been an allergy with that particular horse.)

Has anyone else heard of this or is just an old-wives tale like the kid who ate pop rocks, drank a coke and exploded?

[abott]

OMG Cashmere - thats too funny - I've not heard of Pop rocks in ages, we once found them down south a few years back and our dog insisted on having some - what a face he made when they got wet!!!

[Lily]

Cashmere, I've always used Orvus on my horses- and gotten a lot on myself in the process!- and never had a problem. Hopefully if a product was that dangerous we'd all know about it!

[Portia]

I can't explain the chemistry, goodness knows, but I believe the difference is that Orvus is a "detergent" and therefore quite alkalyne(?), whereas most of the new equine shampoos are non-detergent and with ph levels closer to "normal" for horse hair/skin and are therefore not so harsh. Just like humans, some horses will be sensitive to strong detergents, while others will tolerate it well.

[chicadee411]

This is a great thread, I just wanted to add my 2 cents.

For getting bits really clean, including the nasty hay/grass taht gets stuck in your half eaten rubber bits, I put them in a pot with a little detergent, and I boil them. Also works great on spurs.

On the same line as scratches is scurf. The BEST way to get rid of scurf is to do a furason sweat. Layer on the furason (make sure ladies use gloves!!!) Cover that with saran wrap and then wrap as usual. The heat opens up the pores and the scurf literally melts away.

for shining boots, I suggest used dryer sheets. They work wonders, and you have them, why not put them to use right!

[Everythingbutwings]

It has so much great information to share with the BB

[Checkers324]

Always rub the legs with a soft curry (they're round and the "teeth" are soft and look more like soft rubber bristles than hard teeth) to help prevent scurf. When I'm drying the legs after a bath, I just use the towel in place of the curry.

In the winter, I like to rinse the bit under hot water for a short while until it's just warm. How can you expect the poor horse to happily let you put a piece of freezing cold metal in his mouth??

If you've been riding a while, always loosen the girth a bit immediately after you get off, and then removely it completely when you're untacking in the barn. It's good to rock the cantle up off his back and then rock the pommel up (after the girth has been loosened, of course -- you should NOT be able to do this when the girth is tight!!) so that a little bit of air contacts his back before you take the whole load off. Loosening the girth also serves to gradually let the horse release his belly muscles.

Always wear chaps, half-chaps, or new tall boots when working with a known kicker so that the leather takes the shock of the impact should the horse kick, instead of your leg! I was once kicked by a 15.3hh warmblood while at a prime distance to get the full force of the kick. But because I was wearing tall boots that hadn't yet been broken in, the leather took 99% of the impact and all I felt was a light punch below the knee. Of course, I had a nice scratch on the brand-new Ariat dress boots, but one cleaning and polishing nearly eliminated in and one more cleaning and polishing (that was the last time I wore those boots! LOL I just can't bring myself to go through the pain of breaking them in) should cover it up completely. /infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

Checkers324
Ride the wind, and be at one with your horse!