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RodeoQueen
Jun. 29, 2011, 09:38 AM
Ok, finally we've discovered the issue with my saddle - it needed a lift in the back. I've chopped up an old saddle pad and stuffed it between my saddle and the Thinline pad and it works perfectly! Shims in the thinline are not enough and barely make a dent. My homemade solution is helpful, but not aesthetically pleasing. I would say i have about 1.5 - 2" of support under the cantle of my saddle. Any ideas of where i can purchase a good correction pad? Those cheapie foam pads just flatten out and are not helpful, but that lollypop thing looks like it will lift too much of the saddle.

Ideas?

TIA!

laura

cnvh
Jun. 29, 2011, 10:07 AM
I have a fleece half-pad "pillowcase" (for lack of a better description); it has a velcro-tabbed access point in the top, and you can stuff any sort of correction pad you want inside of it. I've gotten creative with homemade insert configurations for it (depending on how Horse is shape-shifting at that particular time of year), and since everything is inside the cover, it looks nice and neat.

Valentina_32926
Jun. 29, 2011, 10:15 AM
Why not have saddle fitter add padding where it's needed?

myvanya
Jun. 29, 2011, 10:40 AM
I had pretty much that issue and I really couldn't correct it with pads for more than about 2 months before my horse got very back sore unfortunately. I had a mattes pad and two layers of two different types of foam (a mix of closed and open cell) that went under the rear portions of my saddle and I cut in such a way as to transition smoothly as they approached the front of my saddle so there weren't gaps under it. It worked great for a while and provided a much better fit (without them the pommel of my saddle was at least an inch higher than the cantle (sp? I still need coffee :lol:) and with no pads the twist area of my saddle would rest on my horses withers :eek:) I debated getting a cover for my rather ugly padding or making a cover since I am handy with a sewing machine but before I could get it done my horse got sore again.
My solution: I just bought a new [used] saddle. If you can possibly save up for one, even if you don't have a great budget, you may find that an easier path in the long run. As I discovered, padding only works so well for so long. I admit, after buying my first two saddles for this horse I pretty much wanted to impale myself on my horse's giant withers before saddle shopping again (I jump and do dressage so I had a double dose of trauma the first time- oddly but happily his jumping saddle still fits...crossing my fingers) but it ended up not being as bad as I thought and I actually ended up with a saddle I love even more than my first (I haven't been doing dressage for super long) and it was within my pretty tiny budget and I can now sell my old one to make up some of what I spent. I know the new one won't fit forever either probably, since my horse and I are just barely starting to do 1st level, but I have managed to spend little enough on both that I don't shed too many tears when that happens. I should also add that I did have a fitter look at my old saddle and adding flocking to the rear wasn't an option unfortunately. If you need a lot of lift that may not work but if you have a good fitter close by they should be able to tell you either way.

RodeoQueen
Jun. 29, 2011, 10:49 AM
Thanks all! Where did you go to buy open and closed cell foam?

atlatl
Jun. 29, 2011, 11:15 AM
I have a horse who is built very uphill with high withers. I ended up getting him a saddle that had gussets in the panels so that it could be filled with enough flocking to make it level when on his back. If you look for a new saddle, you might want to look for ones with gussets in the panels, otherwise you probably still will need lift in the back.

One source of closed cell foam is a mattress pad. You should be able to buy a twin size one at Target/Walmart relatively inexpensively.

meupatdoes
Jun. 29, 2011, 11:51 AM
The problem with a saddle that sits "tilted back" on a horse is not that the cantle is too low.

The problem is that the vertical drop from the pommel to the weight-bearing panel is too short. The part of the saddle (panel) that is supporting your weight up front is too high on the horse and sitting up along the wither slope instead of on weight bearing muscle, because there isn't enough distance between the panel and the pommel to accommodate the shape of the horse.

Simply lifting the saddle in the back will not alleviate this issue.
It will only send MORE of your weight to the front of the saddle, and onto a part of the horse's anatomy that, as discussed above, is not where you want to be sending that weight.

RodeoQueen
Jun. 29, 2011, 12:04 PM
Ok, I'm listening, tell me more. what would you suggest as a fix? Buying a new saddle isn't an option today. By supporting the cantel my saddle no longer slopes downhill. Just so we're clear - my weight the saddle is not riding over the withers.

My horse is moving happily and i'm riding in a balanced seat with this backyard correction. Obviously, i'll look for a better saddle fit when i can but for now....????

meupatdoes
Jun. 29, 2011, 01:21 PM
Ok, I'm listening, tell me more. what would you suggest as a fix? Buying a new saddle isn't an option today. By supporting the cantel my saddle no longer slopes downhill. Just so we're clear - my weight the saddle is not riding over the withers.

My horse is moving happily and i'm riding in a balanced seat with this backyard correction. Obviously, i'll look for a better saddle fit when i can but for now....????

You are talking to someone who has not jumped their hunter prospect in going on three months because last year he outgrew the saddle he shared with the other horse and then more recently we moved away from the trainer who had been kindly letting us borrow his that fit. When we moved away I had no jump saddle to ride him in. Have a great rider ready to school him over the big sticks, have lessons I would like to take, have shows I would like to attend, and it is all on hold for the saddle.


So you will probably not like my answer, although believe me, I do feel your pain.

atlatl
Jun. 29, 2011, 03:39 PM
The problem with a saddle that sits "tilted back" on a horse is not that the cantle is too low.

The problem is that the vertical drop from the pommel to the weight-bearing panel is too short...

Is this the case even if the pommel is clearing the withers by significant amount? I can see that the situation you describe is possible, however, it seems to me that increasing the distance between the pommel and the weight-bearing panel alone would actually increase the angle of the tilt. If the distance to the panels from the rest of the saddle were increased uniformly down the panel it would not change the angle of the tilt but only lift the entire saddle. Am I missing something??

The saddle fitter that helped me with the horse I described earlier indicated that, in my case, the gussetted panels were what was needed.

meupatdoes
Jun. 29, 2011, 04:42 PM
Is this the case even if the pommel is clearing the withers by significant amount? I can see that the situation you describe is possible, however, it seems to me that increasing the distance between the pommel and the weight-bearing panel alone would actually increase the angle of the tilt. If the distance to the panels from the rest of the saddle were increased uniformly down the panel it would not change the angle of the tilt but only lift the entire saddle. Am I missing something??

The saddle fitter that helped me with the horse I described earlier indicated that, in my case, the gussetted panels were what was needed.

I honestly do not see how adding front gussets to an already-existing, otherwise tipped-back saddle would be the fitting solution for that horse.

Now, if you were ordering a NEW saddle, front gussets often go hand in hand with a longer vertical drop built in to the tree and ordering the tree wide enough to accomodate the whole horse even though some horse-parts in the front are narrow. Did the saddle fitter say, "I recommend ordering this tree configuration here and then also putting in front gussets?" Because that makes total sense.


Horses with a large vertical drop or high wither often have a significant amount of "empty space" or "hollows" right behind the shoulder blade. The combination of wide enough tree (ie, not getting tempted to just go narrower because the front is narrow) with front gussets or K panels balances the saddle to the whole horse and fills in the space to increase the bearing surface.

But if they just added front gussets onto something you already had to stop it tipping back, then 2 points for you and none for me because you flat out have me stumped and I readily admit defeat. :lol:

atlatl
Jun. 29, 2011, 05:34 PM
I honestly do not see how adding front gussets to an already-existing, otherwise tipped-back saddle would be the fitting solution for that horse.

Now, if you were ordering a NEW saddle, front gussets often go hand in hand with a longer vertical drop built in to the tree and ordering the tree wide enough to accomodate the whole horse even though some horse-parts in the front are narrow. Did the saddle fitter say, "I recommend ordering this tree configuration here and then also putting in front gussets?" Because that makes total sense.


Horses with a large vertical drop or high wither often have a significant amount of "empty space" or "hollows" right behind the shoulder blade. The combination of wide enough tree (ie, not getting tempted to just go narrower because the front is narrow) with front gussets or K panels balances the saddle to the whole horse and fills in the space to increase the bearing surface.

But if they just added front gussets onto something you already had to stop it tipping back, then 2 points for you and none for me because you flat out have me stumped and I readily admit defeat. :lol:

I can't take any points because I see now that I wasn't clear. First of all, this was a new saddle made for this horse precisely because nothing off the rack fit him after many many tries. The gussets are in the back of the panels, basically to provide a large enough area to allow sufficient flocking to make the saddle sit level on my horse's back. He is super uphill in addition to having prominent withers so really needed the additional lift in the back of the saddle so that the seat was level. Yes, he does have a somewhat hollow area behind his shoulder, which was addressed with proper flocking, but the big challenge was his uphill conformation.

Now that the hollow behind the shoulder thing was brought up, I understand where you're coming from.

I guess we're tied :)